Gas dehorner failing to ignite/ heat up

just do it

I've a lifeforce gas dehorner and I don't think it is igniting. As normal I turn on the gas and that is flowing well. I click the ignite button but there is no change in the sound as there should be when it ignites. I've tried leaving it but it doesn't heat up. I've also lit it with a match but it still doesn't heat up. I've also had it indoors for a while so that it's warm to start with.

Any ideas how to get it going?

shot_ov_a

just do it wrote: »

I've a lifeforce gas dehorner and I don't think it is igniting. As normal I turn on the gas and that is flowing well. I click the ignite button but there is no change in the sound as there should be when it ignites. I've tried leaving it but it doesn't heat up. I've also lit it with a match but it still doesn't heat up. I've also had it indoors for a while so that it's warm to start with.

Any ideas how to get it going?

not fully sure wot make our one wos but used to have the same prob and found that if you took off the top there would be a gauze inside try blowing that out and give it a go again

49801

had simular trouble with our yoke lately.... will be going back to the old fuel!

reilig

just do it wrote: »

I've a lifeforce gas dehorner and I don't think it is igniting. As normal I turn on the gas and that is flowing well. I click the ignite button but there is no change in the sound as there should be when it ignites. I've tried leaving it but it doesn't heat up. I've also lit it with a match but it still doesn't heat up. I've also had it indoors for a while so that it's warm to start with.

Any ideas how to get it going?

Have you bought a new can of gas for it lately? I found with mine that there are huge differences between the cans of gas. Some cans are really hard to light or just won't light at all.

Beyond that, After 5 years of using mine, i had to get a new tip for it. It wouldn't light at all. It cost €10 including postage through the Store that I bought the dehorner in. Might be worth bringing it back to them.

In reality, dehorners are just modified soldering irons (with a different heads). The place that you bought it should be able to help.

just do it

reilig wrote: »

Beyond that, After 5 years of using mine, i had to get a new tip for it. It wouldn't light at all. It cost €10 including postage through the Store that I bought the dehorner in. Might be worth bringing it back to them.

The place that you bought it should be able to help.

I have it in the car so hopefully I'll get home in time from work to catch the shop before it shuts. I've a lively FL22 heifer calf to do and I want her done sooner rather than later!

Tora Bora

Screw off the top, and clean out the inside of the part screwed off and the main body. In the most of the models, you should find a tiny hole, less than 0.25 of a milimeter diameter. That is the venturi, to regulate the flow of the gas. Make sure it the hole is clean aand unobstructed. Stick a pin in to clean as much as possible. Blow out. Reasemble. Done.

That should be done regularly. If it is partially blocked, and gunged up, it might not prevent you from starting the thing up, BUT it will reduce the temperature and efficiancy of the unit!

just do it

Tora Bora wrote: »

Screw off the top, and clean out the inside of the part screwed off and the main body. In the most of the models, you should find a tiny hole, less than 0.25 of a milimeter diameter. That is the venturi, to regulate the flow of the gas. Make sure it the hole is clean aand unobstructed. Stick a pin in to clean as much as possible. Blow out. Reasemble. Done.

That should be done regularly. If it is partially blocked, andged up, it might not prevent you from starting the thing up, BUT it will reduce the temperature and efficiancy of the unit!

I'll give it a go

just do it

Here is the forcefield gas dehorner intact


1. Remove the small screw at the top and remove the head:



2. Picture of the bottom of the head that fits down into the cylinder. There are 3 layers, 1st is the outside shell, 2nd is a roll of metal guaze/ mesh which is wrapped around the 3rd layer, an inner white core.



3. This is inside the cylinder - the picture isn't that clear. In the centre there is an opening through which the gas flows. At 4oc you can see a white spot. This is where the spark for ignition comes from. It looks a bit like the white bit that provided the spark in the old gas supersers.



4. This is the head with the rolled up metal guaze removed. I reckon the problem was the guaze had moved down and was blocking the spark coming out. All I did was unroll it, give a good blow, re-roll it and insert it back in. I also give a good blow down into the cylinder but this looked clean and the gas flowed and ignited no bother when the head was off. I put it all back together again and hey presto it works!


When I put back together with the guaze not fully pushed up into the head it failed to ignite.

So there you have it! There's a few calves having a great sleep tonight not knowing what is ahead of them first thing in the morning!;)