Damaged cordless battery charger lead-HELP

paddy147

Is there anywhere that fixes these cordless battery charger leads or can I get a new one from somewhere in Dublin or anywhere?

Its for a Rok 24 volt cordless drill,but somehow the battery charger lead has become frayed and damaged,and its not working any more.:(

Help??

Bruthal

I have often fixed that type of problem, its not too difficult to fix the damaged lead, but it would need to be found out why its now not working.

Either the adaptor is damaged through the output lead shorting where the insulation has failed, or the output lead also has an open circuit in it.


A voltage test at the exposed cores would help, to see if there is still an output, as long as they are prevented from shorting, and there is no short further down the lead.

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

I have often fixed that type of problem, its not too difficult to fix the damaged lead, but it would need to be found out why its now not working.

Either the adaptor is damaged through the output lead shorting where the insulation has failed, or the output lead also has an open circuit in it.


A voltage test at the exposed cores would help, to see if there is still an output, as long as they are prevented from shorting, and there is no short further down the lead.

I only copped that the lead was frayed this evening,after I noticed that the red charging light was not on.

So maybe its because of that damage at the sheating??

Because it hasnt been dropped or bashed about and was working fine up till yesterday evening.

Do you fancy fixing this one then???:D

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

I only copped that the lead was frayed this evening,after I noticed that the red charging light was not on.

So maybe its because of that damage at the sheating??

Because it hasnt been dropped or bashed about and was working fine up till yesterday evening.

Do you fancy fixing this one then???:D

Il fix it if the transformer itself is working. The best way to test it is cut the lead about 6 inches from where it leaves the adaptor, seperate the 2 cores and ensure they are not touching at the damaged spot, and do a voltage test on the core ends with a volt meter, and/or see does the red light come on.

If there is no output from the adaptor though, its for the bin.

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

Il fix it if the transformer itself is working. The best way to test it is cut the lead about 6 inches from where it leaves the adaptor, seperate the 2 cores and ensure they are not touching at the damaged spot, and do a voltage test on the core ends with a volt meter, and/or see does the red light come on.

If there is no output from the adaptor though, its for the bin.

Would you know where I could get a new one or suitable charger??

Would Maplins stock them,or do I need to look further afield??

Thanks Robbie.

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

Would you know where I could get a new one or suitable charger??

Would Maplins stock them,or do I need to look further afield??

Thanks Robbie.

Im not sure really.

Tomorrow have a look at the damaged area. Make sure no strands are shorted, then see does the light come on on it.

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

Im not sure really.

Tomorrow have a look at the damaged area. Make sure no strands are shorted, then see does the light come on on it.

That lead connects into the battery charger pod,and I just tried it.


No red light when I slot in the battery,its DEAD.

On closer inspection of the damaged lead/insulation,ome of the wires are frayed and have broken,so I rekon you are right on it being fcuked and ready for the bin.:(

So where to get a new charger/adaptor???

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

That lead connects into the battery charger pod,and I just tried it.


No red light when I slot in the battery,its DEAD.

On closer inspection of the damaged lead/insulation,ome of the wires are frayed and have broken,so I rekon you are right on it being fcuked and ready for the bin.:(

So where to get a new charger/adaptor???

Yea but the lead could possibly be broken, as in the strands broken inside the lead, so a voltmeter test of the exposed leads would comfirm the power supply is knackered. If there was 29v at the exposed strands, then it could be fixed.

Not sure where you would get one of that output voltage. Its 29v which likely drops down a bit when the load of the battery being charged is on it.

indie armada

PTRS in glasnevin ind est is where we send customers drills ect to be repaired, they might be able to help.
ive fixed a few of these for the lads in the past, some have an iternal fuse which if shorted blows and is a pain to change as its usually soldered to the pcb, others were faulty cause one of the wires had detached from the pcb just inside the little flexi bit thats broke in one of the pics.

Bruthal

indie armada wrote: »

PTRS in glasnevin ind est is where we send customers drills ect to be repaired, they might be able to help.
ive fixed a few of these for the lads in the past, some have an iternal fuse which if shorted blows and is a pain to change as its usually soldered to the pcb, others were faulty cause one of the wires had detached from the pcb just inside the little flexi bit thats broke in one of the pics.

The one paddy has does have a thermal fuse in it. Its probably a sealed unit.


If the unit is one that can be opened, then its usually an easy fix for anyone into the electronics.


Is it a sealed unit paddy? I have actually cut them open before too.

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

The one paddy has does have a thermal fuse in it. Its probably a sealed unit.


If the unit is one that can be opened, then its usually an easy fix for anyone into the electronics.


Is it a sealed unit paddy? I have actually cut them open before too.

Theres 4 small screws in the base of the plug unit,but I need some sort of special screwdriver to open them up.:(

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

Theres 4 small screws in the base of the plug unit,but I need some sort of special screwdriver to open them up.:(

I was assuming it was a sealed unit. Id say that would be fixable alright. Take a pic of the screws if you can, but they are usually not too difficult to remove. Are they slot head with a piece in the middle, or star heads?

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

I was assuming it was a sealed unit. Id say that would be fixable alright. Take a pic of the screws if you can, but they are usually not too difficult to remove. Are they slot head with a piece in the middle, or star heads?

slot head with a piece in the middle.

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

slot head with a piece in the middle.

They can be removed by cutting a slot in the head of a cheap screwdriver. Id say it will either be a break in the lead inside the unit, or in the lead itself, or that fuse in it has blown due to the exposed copper cores shorting. Shouldnt be too difficult to fix,

Bruthal

I could look at it if i could get a hold of it anyway.

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

I could look at it if i could get a hold of it anyway.

You in Dublin Robbie??:)

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

You in Dublin Robbie??:)

Navan, but up and back to blanch now and again, where are you.

paddy147

robbie7730 wrote: »

Navan, but up and back to blanch now and again, where are you.

Im in the Santry area.so I could meet up with you,if you want to have a look at this charger.:)

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

Im in the Santry area.so I could meet up with you,if you want to have a look at this charger.:)

Yea if you bring it to blanch we can do that