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Painting masonry

  • 31-03-2012 11:51pm
    #1
    kkelly77
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭


    Spent today removing the old paint from the garden wall, so it's stripped right back to the masonry.

    Is is essential to seal the masonry before applying the primer for a decent long lasting finish? Or will priming alone do the trick? Thanks.


Comments

  • #2
    mad m
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,005 ✭✭✭mad m


    Stabilizing Solution on wall then any good exterior emulsion.


  • #3
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    Spent today removing the old paint from the garden wall, so it's stripped right back to the masonry.

    Is is essential to seal the masonry before applying the primer for a decent long lasting finish? Or will priming alone do the trick? Thanks.


    Can I ask how you removed the paint and got it back to bare masonary?

    This is on my list of things to do...soon.

    Thanks.:)


  • #4
    Happyman42
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,066 ✭✭✭✭Happyman42


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Can I ask how you removed the paint and got it back to bare masonary?

    This is on my list of things to do...soon.

    Thanks.:)

    A good methodical blitz with an industrial powerwasher will get you there Paddy. Will make a hell of a mess though as the tiny paint particles will go everywhere, but if you can live with it, wind and rain will blow them away eventually. It also has the capacity to damage dodgy masonry too.


  • #5
    kkelly77
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Can I ask how you removed the paint and got it back to bare masonary?

    This is on my list of things to do...soon.

    Thanks.:)

    Used one of THESE Paddy attached to an angle grinder. Well actually, I used 2. The first one eventually wore down. They are twisted wire, so are extremely tough. I had about 3 layers of paint to get through though. A normal wire brush might suit better.

    Headed over to Woodies earlier to pick up the stabiliser but the only one they had was €45 for 2.5L :eek: There must be cheaper out there, right?


  • #6
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    Used one of THESE Paddy attached to an angle grinder. Well actually, I used 2. The first one eventually wore down. They are twisted wire, so are extremely tough. I had about 3 layers of paint to get through though. A normal wire brush might suit better.

    Headed over to Woodies earlier to pick up the stabiliser but the only one they had was €45 for 2.5L :eek: There must be cheaper out there, right?


    A Builders Providers or any Paint trade shop (Crown Trade or Fleetwood Trade Paints).

    Both will sell to the public too.:)


    Thanks for the advice.


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  • #7
    irelandspurs
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,081 ✭✭✭irelandspurs


    No need for stabilizing solution if you've stripped it back to bare masonry.


  • #8
    kkelly77
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    irelandspurs wrote: »
    No need for stabilizing solution if you've stripped it back to bare masonry.

    Really? I thought the whole point of using stabilising solution was when you were back to bare masonry :confused:


  • #9
    irelandspurs
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,081 ✭✭✭irelandspurs


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    Really? I thought the whole point of using stabilising solution was when you were back to bare masonry :confused:

    No,you use stabilising solution if the wall is dusty,chaulky but if you have gone back to masonary then masonary paint is all you need.


  • #10
    rungmc
    Registered Users Posts: 16 ✭rungmc


    Stabilizing solution will cost you about 50 for 5l in most shops, although I've only ever seen it in5l cans so either way, you're gonna be 50 quid down.


  • #11
    mad m
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,005 ✭✭✭mad m


    Just wondering why did the OP strip the paint work back to the bare wall? If it was sound then all it would of needed was a couple of coats of good exterior paint.

    It was assumed by me that the walls weren't great and that's why all the paint had to come off. So stabilizing was suggested before putting on new exterior emulsion.


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  • #12
    gugsy
    Registered Users Posts: 571 ✭✭✭gugsy


    mad m wrote: »
    Just wondering why did the OP strip the paint work back to the bare wall? If it was sound then all it would of needed was a couple of coats of good exterior paint.

    It was assumed by me that the walls weren't great and that's why all the paint had to come off. So stabilizing was suggested before putting on new exterior emulsion.


    You only use sabilizing solution if walls are caulky. If walls are sound and no dust on your hand if you rub it, all you need to do is thin out first coat with 10% water where walls are bare and two coats full over that.


  • #13
    mad m
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,005 ✭✭✭mad m


    gugsy wrote: »
    You only use sabilizing solution if walls are caulky. If walls are sound and no dust on your hand if you rub it, all you need to do is thin out first coat with 10% water where walls are bare and two coats full over that.

    I know this and so does the OP now, your missing my point, the OP didn't state if walls were chalky or dusty. I'm just wondering why the OP had to strip it right back to the bare masonry in first place, the only reason I can see if it was flaking and was dusty or chalky...

    That's all I was wondering...


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