Clio dci needs new turbo- please help

richardsheil

Hello,

I have managed to be given a Clio 1.5 dci from 2002 with 108,000 miles and a blown turbo. Oil everywhere and no power, lots of smoke etc.

The question is, given the free nature of the car I don't want to spend big bucks on this car, where to get a replacement?

I took the turbo off last night and the bearings etc have failed. The wastegate was stuck too but I have freed it off.

So does anybody know where I can get a good secondhand turbo or should I buy a turbo cassette or full turbo like posted below?

Perhaps the good Nissan Doctor or George could advise?

Many thanks,

Richard



http://www.ebay.ie/itm/310377681533?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

or the full turbo

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/310232622770?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Plug

Try get a second hand one in a scrap yard.

George Dalton

It's difficult to see how a new turbo can be sold that cheap. Presumably they aren't genuine Garrett turbos at that price. Probably no worse than a lot of recon units all the same so might be worth a punt.

shamwari

Check the EGR operation and oil feed to the turbo if you plan on repairing that thing. The EGR's on those things jam shut and cause the exhaust temperature to rise and cook the turbo's bearings over time. It's the same craic with the turbo's in the Laguna on the larger 1.9 dCi. The jammed EGR is usually a silent failure and may not put the MIL on. The previous owner may comment that the car had plenty of power prior to it coiling up...

richardsheil

Thanks lads. Will try to get second hand one first. Great tip about the egr. When does the egr move so I can check it?

shamwari

Some of the early versions of that engine used a mechanical EGR that was vacuum actuated. Such EGR's can be tested using something like a Mityvac or similar source that can generate a vacuum and verify that the valve mechanism operates as expected. If the valve is sticky, you might be able to get it tested and ultrasonically cleaned at nominal cost by someone like McNamara's.

Assuming the valve isn't sticky and operates properly, I'd then plumb a vacuum gauge in line with the vac pipes and confirm that the correct vacuum is being generated up to the valve. This will verify correct operation of the EGR solenoid valve and the vacuum pump.

Electronic EGR's usually require a suitable scan tool to trigger electronic actuation of the valve to again verify it is operating correctly. Someone did tell me once that some Renault dealers have a device which plugs directly to the electronic socket of the EGR and this device actuates the EGR directly, but I've never seen such a device nor met anyone who has seen such for themselves.

Hope this helps! Keep us posted on how you get on

Demmo

richardsheil wrote: »

Hello,

I have managed to be given a Clio 1.5 dci from 2002 with 108,000 miles and a blown turbo. Oil everywhere and no power, lots of smoke etc.

The question is, given the free nature of the car I don't want to spend big bucks on this car, where to get a replacement?

I took the turbo off last night and the bearings etc have failed. The wastegate was stuck too but I have freed it off.

So does anybody know where I can get a good secondhand turbo or should I buy a turbo cassette or full turbo like posted below?

Perhaps the good Nissan Doctor or George could advise?

Many thanks,

Richard



http://www.ebay.ie/itm/310377681533?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

or the full turbo

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/310232622770?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I see you have the exact same thread on Octane!
Did you get sorted?

Nissan doctor

Most points have been covered above. Remember though that the vast majority of turbo failures are caused by the failure/blockage of another component....so make sure you inspect all systems, especially the likes of the turbo oil feed and return pipes before you spend money on a new turbo.

Wheelnut

@Demmo: How can you be a Peugeot master thechnician but only an ordinary Citroen technician? Surely they are the same.

re: the Octane thread, I think he bought a s/h one from a Megane.

galwaytt

Wheelnut wrote: »

@Demmo: How can you be a Peugeot master technician but only an ordinary Citroen technician? Surely they are the same.

.....lol....maybe it's because an ordinary Citroen is on par with an high-spec Peugeot... ? ....or maybe it's a secret-handshake-French Mason-thing, where you have to work your way up.....with Citroen at the top of the pile ?

richardsheil

Thanks lads,

yes I bought a secondhand turbo and checked piping etc and am satisfied turbo is working fine and is well lubricated.

It is still misfiring. I am now trying to figure out which injector is the faulty one ( if that is indeed the case) and will keep you in the loop.

Thanks for interest.

Plan to swap the injectors around and see if the misfiring one can be identified. Also plan to compare spray patterns etc. Keeping it as cheap as possible.

Richard

Nissan doctor

richardsheil wrote: »

Thanks lads,

yes I bought a secondhand turbo and checked piping etc and am satisfied turbo is working fine and is well lubricated.

It is still misfiring. I am now trying to figure out which injector is the faulty one ( if that is indeed the case) and will keep you in the loop.

Thanks for interest.

Plan to swap the injectors around and see if the misfiring one can be identified. Also plan to compare spray patterns etc. Keeping it as cheap as possible.

Richard

You can do a DIY check on the injectors with a bit of clear tubing.

Clamp the fuel return line and fit some clear tubing(of matching size) to the injector fuel return outlets and turn the engine over. Whichever injector fills the tubing with fuel is the failed/failing one.

richardsheil

Nissan doctor wrote: »

You can do a DIY check on the injectors with a bit of clear tubing.

Clamp the fuel return line and fit some clear tubing(of matching size) to the injector fuel return outlets and turn the engine over. Whichever injector fills the tubing with fuel is the failed/failing one.

Don't really understand this. There are fuel return outlets on each injector which run back to a common pipe running along the front of the rocker cover. Do I clamp the pipe after the fourth injector? Does the engine run during this process?

I have just been for a drive and the new turbo seems to be covered in oil again. Will have to find out why. Perhaps I did not clear out the return to the sump well enough? Still misifirng but definitely more power until the pipe to the inlet blew off. Perhas the wastegate is not working right.

A series of problems. Thanks for help

Nissan doctor

richardsheil wrote: »

Don't really understand this. There are fuel return outlets on each injector which run back to a common pipe running along the front of the rocker cover. Do I clamp the pipe after the fourth injector? Does the engine run during this process?

Remove the fuel return pipes from each injector and clamp the return pipe that the 4 injector returns merge into.

Fit the sections of clear tubing onto the injector return outlets in place of the factory returns, you can use long tubing sections or feed shorter ones into 4 cups or similar.

When you turn the engine over, any faulty injector will fill/partially fill the clear tubing(i.e the fuel will come back through the return due to not being fully injected)

richardsheil

will try this

richardsheil

Tried this today with four 1 m lengths of silicone tubing.

Clamped off the return where the return goes back to the injector pump as the pipe was softer there.

Found fairly significant flow in all the return lines but the one in the second injector from timing belt end had about six inches more flow than the others. That's the one I am going to change first, followed by the one nearest the timing belt end.

How important is inputting the flow characteristic data into the ecu when replacing an injector?

thanks

Nissan doctor

richardsheil wrote: »

Tried this today with four 1 m lengths of silicone tubing.

Clamped off the return where the return goes back to the injector pump as the pipe was softer there.

Found fairly significant flow in all the return lines but the one in the second injector from timing belt end had about six inches more flow than the others. That's the one I am going to change first, followed by the one nearest the timing belt end.

How important is inputting the flow characteristic data into the ecu when replacing an injector?

thanks

If you just fit a new injector then it should work fine without injector programming, i.e well enough to tell you if the injector was the problem.

Without programming though the ECU will not have exact info it needs for its individual control of each injector so you may have an overfuelling or underfuelling situation which may throw a fault code again. The Delphi system on the Renault is especially prone to this.