Reseeding options

jj92

I'm looking at reseeding 9 acres in the next couple of weeks. I've had a few cattle out on it and it's well poached up now. There's not too many stones in this field and it's fairly dry ground.

Would the way to go be to spray with roundup, followed by power harrow, then seed, then roll?

I can spray and roll myself, harrowing and seeding will be a contractor job.

kofnh

Ya sounds good to me, would spray it, leave for week or 2 skin it with rotary mower. then be no harm give it a coat slurry and defo a bit of lime.. power harrow seed and roll

Muckit

There was an article on reseeding in the IFJ a couple of weeks back. Teagasc I think did a trail of different reseeding methods and a comparision of results was made, based on the tonnage of grass it produced in the following years.

Min till methods (disc and powerharrow or just powerharrowing) produced better results than conventional plough/till/sow.

Spray off.

Then a week/10days later....
Disc (optional).
Powerharrow.
Land leveller (not always necessary)
Roll.
Sow seed.
Roll.
Close gate.

It's up for debate when to spread lime. Some say before tilling so you've a crust and you're not bogging, others say after so that it's near the surface and not buried.

RobinBanks

Muckit wrote: »

There was an article on reseeding in the IFJ a couple of weeks back. Teagasc I think did a trail of different reseeding methods and a comparision of results was made, based on the tonnage of grass it produced in the following years.

Min till methods (disc and powerharrow or just powerharrowing) produced better results than conventional plough/till/sow.

Spray off.

Then a week/10days later....
Disc (optional).
Powerharrow.
Land leveller (not always necessary)
Roll.
Sow seed.
Roll.
Close gate.

It's up for debate when to spread lime. Some say before tilling so you've a crust and you're not bogging, others say after so that it's near the surface and not buried.

Thats great advice Muckit. I am going to reseed silage ground after cutting and wanted to do it this way but wasnt sure about the method. Thanks allot.

P.S - is it ok to spray with roundup before cutting the grass for bales?

Atilathehun

Muckit wrote: »

There was an article on reseeding in the IFJ a couple of weeks back. Teagasc I think did a trail of different reseeding methods and a comparision of results was made, based on the tonnage of grass it produced in the following years.

Min till methods (disc and powerharrow or just powerharrowing) produced better results than conventional plough/till/sow.

Spray off.

Then a week/10days later....
Disc (optional).
Powerharrow.
Land leveller (not always necessary)
Roll.
Sow seed.
Roll.
Close gate.

It's up for debate when to spread lime. Some say before tilling so you've a crust and you're not bogging, others say after so that it's near the surface and not buried.

Has anybody tried direct drilling method with the Guttler Greenmaster system. Like what these guys are doing. http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/machinery/3194702 or http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/machinery/3146978

reilig

I think its madness. People are over-complicating reseeding. See the picture below of the ground after the guttler greenmaster system. Anyone can roughen ground like this with a chain harrow, sprinkle grass seed with a wagtail, cover it with the chain harrow and roll. There isn't a lot of need to pay a guy €50 an acre to come in to do it. I achieved as good of results as this guy has shown in the photographs in his ad with my chain harrow and at a fraction of the price!

Muckit

I forgot to mention 2 bags of 10-10-20/acre or slurry. Some say 18-6-12 or something similiar like 'Replenish'. Again lads will have different ideas on when to spread. I don't think it matters a whole pile.

I'd agree with Reilig that if you were thinking of getting in a guttler or something similar, don't. Go away and buy a chain harrow instead, you'I have it for again

Bizzum

RobinBanks wrote: »

is it ok to spray with roundup before cutting the grass for bales?

Yes it is. Spray and harvest 9 or 10 days later. There will be the grandest wilt on the grass, and it makes lovely silage.

bob charles

the picture above is no advert for that system anyway. no way would I put grass seeds into such and environment. I would post pictures of my direct drilled pastures with a moore drill but they are on my old computer that just wont start today :rolleyes:

Atilathehun

reilig wrote: »

I think its madness. People are over-complicating reseeding. See the picture below of the ground after the guttler greenmaster system. Anyone can roughen ground like this with a chain harrow, sprinkle grass seed with a wagtail, cover it with the chain harrow and roll. There isn't a lot of need to pay a guy €50 an acre to come in to do it. I achieved as good of results as this guy has shown in the photographs in his ad with my chain harrow and at a fraction of the price!

Yes, when I saw that picture, I thought the place looked like a horse gallup. Note the post and rail fencing. I thought that might at least part explain the condition of the field post reseed. To be fair though, the owner of the field, has the responsibility to ensure absolute min vegitation on the surface before the contractor arrives.

There was a discussion on it here recently http://farmingforum.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=66396

I would asctually like to try a few acres, if there was somebody in my area doing it. I think in a well prepared field, it might work good. By well prepared I mean sprayed, cut bare to the soil, thrash gathered up, and chain harrowed to drag away as much as possible of remaining vegitation, dead grass etc,.
Then let contractor in to do his stuff. Then good coat of slurry. Am I raving

GERMAN ROCKS

im always curious about just giving it two rubs of the power harrow. i have a power harrow but always plough first. i normally spray, plough, tine harrow, power harrow, seed+fert and then roll.
when ye say power harrow do ye have the packer down afterwards or lifted up? anyone of any pics of the bed when it had just been power harrowed.

Muckit

No pics. But one run of the powerharrow is all I gave it last time.

You would see a few little squibs of yellow burnt off scraw, but nothing major.

Well pleased with the results.

I think with the way diesel prices are going ALL farm machinery operations will have to become more simplified. Whatever system gets the job done with the minimum amount of tractor passes wins

vanderbadger

bob charles wrote: »

the picture above is no advert for that system anyway. no way would I put grass seeds into such and environment. I would post pictures of my direct drilled pastures with a moore drill but they are on my old computer that just wont start today :rolleyes:

would be interested in seeing those Bob if you get a chance sometime, those guttler greenmasters are about 12 grand i believe !

Atilathehun

GERMAN ROCKS wrote: »

im always curious about just giving it two rubs of the power harrow. i have a power harrow but always plough first. i normally spray, plough, tine harrow, power harrow, seed+fert and then roll.
when ye say power harrow do ye have the packer down afterwards or lifted up? anyone of any pics of the bed when it had just been power harrowed.

I have done it like that in the past. Very popular method around here.
If weather is dry, it's best to power harrow twice, with a few days in between, to allow the turned up surface dry out a bit.
Second run of the harrow will create a much finer seed bed, than if you did it twice same day.
pick stones if you need. seed, fertilise, lime, roll. go for a few pints:cool:

sh1tstirrer

Atilathehun wrote: »

reilig wrote: »

I think its madness. People are over-complicating reseeding. See the picture below of the ground after the guttler greenmaster system. Anyone can roughen ground like this with a chain harrow, sprinkle grass seed with a wagtail, cover it with the chain harrow and roll. There isn't a lot of need to pay a guy €50 an acre to come in to do it. I achieved as good of results as this guy has shown in the photographs in his ad with my chain harrow and at a fraction of the price!

Yes, when I saw that picture, I thought the place looked like a horse gallup. Note the post and rail fencing. I thought that might at least part explain the condition of the field post reseed. To be fair though, the owner of the field, has the responsibility to ensure absolute min vegitation on the surface before the contractor arrives.

There was a discussion on it here recently http://farmingforum.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=66396

I would asctually like to try a few acres, if there was somebody in my area doing it. I think in a well prepared field, it might work good. By well prepared I mean sprayed, cut bare to the soil, thrash gathered up, and chain harrowed to drag away as much as possible of remaining vegitation, dead grass etc,.
Then let contractor in to do his stuff. Then good coat of slurry. Am I raving

A coat of slurry after reseeding? My neighbour did that a few years ago and killed off all the newly seeded grass.

Atilathehun

sh1tstirrer wrote: »

A coat of slurry after reseeding? My neighbour did that a few years ago and killed off all the newly seeded grass.

Dont be daft! :eek:

sh1tstirrer

Atilathehun wrote: »

sh1tstirrer wrote: »

A coat of slurry after reseeding? My neighbour did that a few years ago and killed off all the newly seeded grass.

Dont be daft! :eek:

I am not being daft, my neighbour went daft though when he had to reseed the field again.

bob charles

picture of direct drilling grass seed. This field was burned off about a month previously (16/3/11) and then drilled (20/4/11 give or take a few days). It should have received a ltr per ha of Glyphosate post drilling to clear up any greening but my sprayer was on beet duty and I was just too busy to have to spend 3 hrs clean it out again. So what happened is that there was a little weed grass back in the new sward, say less than 20% so it wasnt the end of the world. I usually prefer to drill into living grass and then burn off 4 or 5 days after drilling as this gives the new grass more time to get on its feet. cant find any after pictures at the moment

bob charles

Attachment 1 (no 9)

Picture of grass Driect drilled into maize stubble on the 17th of October 2010. this picture was taken on the 6/3/11 getting it first application of fert

Attachment 2 (no 10)

First grazing on the 2nd of April 11, this is a single variety hybrid ryegrass, was really only put as a very short term grazing grass (6 - 12 months) but unfortunately its still in the ground 18 months later due to shortage of land and this field not able to go back into the rotation its supposed to be in

vanderbadger

bob charles wrote: »

picture of direct drilling grass seed. This field was burned off about a month previously (16/3/11) and then drilled (20/4/11 give or take a few days). It should have received a ltr per ha of Glyphosate post drilling to clear up any greening but my sprayer was on beet duty and I was just too busy to have to spend 3 hrs clean it out again. So what happened is that there was a little weed grass back in the new sward, say less than 20% so it wasnt the end of the world. I usually prefer to drill into living grass and then burn off 4 or 5 days after drilling as this gives the new grass more time to get on its feet. cant find any after pictures at the moment

do you use a subsoiler before hand bob or is it necessary?

bob charles

vanderbadger wrote: »

do you use a subsoiler before hand bob or is it necessary?

sub soiler is an implement that is very very necessary, I have never used one

moy83

Great pics Bob .Is it a moore uni-drill you are using did you say ? Does the new grass come better when you kill off the old grass after drilling ? Ive never done it that way but it sounds like a good plan

redzerologhlen

bob charles wrote: »

Attachment 1 (no 9)

Picture of grass Driect drilled into maize stubble on the 17th of October 2010. this picture was taken on the 6/3/11 getting it first application of fert

Attachment 2 (no 10)

First grazing on the 2nd of April 11, this is a single variety hybrid ryegrass, was really only put as a very short term grazing grass (6 - 12 months) but unfortunately its still in the ground 18 months later due to shortage of land and this field not able to go back into the rotation its supposed to be in

That looks to be a super tidy job bob. Would I right in thinking that this method of reseeding wouldnt make the ground as tender as the conventional methods?

bob charles

redzerologhlen wrote: »

That looks to be a super tidy job bob. Would I right in thinking that this method of reseeding wouldnt make the ground as tender as the conventional methods?

Any of our grazing that doesnt need leveling, direct drilling is the prefered option. From drilling date to grazing depending on time of the year could be as close as 6 - 8 weeks. The 'sod' is as tough as normal and this is the big advantage in my view. Also the best of the nutrients are on top of the gorund. Mind there is a good bit of planning on getting a good job done.

blue5000

bob charles wrote: »

Attachment 1 (no 9)

Picture of grass Driect drilled into maize stubble on the 17th of October 2010. this picture was taken on the 6/3/11 getting it first application of fert

Attachment 2 (no 10)

First grazing on the 2nd of April 11, this is a single variety hybrid ryegrass, was really only put as a very short term grazing grass (6 - 12 months) but unfortunately its still in the ground 18 months later due to shortage of land and this field not able to go back into the rotation its supposed to be in

Is this westerwolds bob? How long are you leaving it in?

f140

how would a howard rotovator work as opposed to a power harrow?

keep going

put in seeds 2 weeks ago and nothing showing yet but mind you tis a north facing field so i would nt blame them for keeping their heads down