Philmac fittings question

Muckit

Do you have to use plumbers tape on the new philmac fittings??

I only ask because I bought a ball valve



and written on the plastic covering it says that philmac recommends the use of tape on BSP treads.... would this mean the threads on body have to be taped before collars screwed on?

Or is it referring to trough elbows that you screw onto ballcocks?

Thanks

Muckit

blue5000

BSP is british standard pipe thread, it is what is used on brass fittings. You only need the tape when you are joining philmac fittings to brass fittings, like on a ballcock to an elbow. Philmac on it's own normally won't need any tape, if it's leaking it could be because the O ring is damaged.

leex

blue5000 wrote: »

BSP is british standard pipe thread, it is what is used on brass fittings. You only need the tape when you are joining philmac fittings to brass fittings, like on a ballcock to an elbow. Philmac on it's own normally won't need any tape, if it's leaking it could be because the O ring is damaged.

I would agree with this also. Make sure you have a nice straight clean cut on pipe, push it into assembled fitting and tighten well with your hands.

just do it

Muckit wrote: »

Do you have to use plumbers tape on the new philmac fittings??

I only ask because I bought a ball valve



and written on the plastic covering it says that philmac recommends the use of tape on BSP treads.... would this mean the threads on body have to be taped before collars screwed on?

Or is it referring to trough elbows that you screw onto ballcocks?

Thanks

Muckit

Blue I'd say is spot on. I've used a few of the new fittings recently without tape and have had no issues with them.

sheafield

No tape needed on the nuts of any philmac fittings. As previous post's said cut pipe and slide into fittings. Tighten well by hand and give a half turn with a spanner or wrench especially when putting underground. Tape only needed on the fine thread of any fitting.

Drawinhard!!

The new fittings are great so easy and the inserts can be pulled out if ya do it wrong thats from experience haha

vanderbadger

with the newer philmac fittings they do recommend that you give them a squeeze with a wrench

Muckit

Thanks everyone for your help, much appreciated. Always good to double check;)

I did think it was gas how lads jumped to conclusions though My original post never mentioned the joints were leaking! The joints are perfect. But that's not to say they'd stay that way if they required tape and were buried in the ground and poor Muckit would have no way of knowing! (I've a few Tees aswell). I just wanted to 'to be sure to be sure' before backfilling

I agree that a good square and straight edge is required on pipe. I gave up using a hacksaw years ago and bought myself one of these Pipe cutters. If you don't have one, buy one, what a joy to use A clean cut in seconds with no burr.

Miley2

A great investment. Ideal also for cutting insulators when fencing

just do it

Muckit wrote: »

Thanks everyone for your help, much appreciated. Always good to double check;)

I did think it was gas how lads jumped to conclusions though My original post never mentioned the joints were leaking! The joints are perfect. But that's not to say they'd stay that way if they required tape and were buried in the ground and poor Muckit would have no way of knowing! (I've a few Tees aswell). I just wanted to 'to be sure to be sure' before backfilling

I agree that a good square and straight edge is required on pipe. I gave up using a hacksaw years ago and bought myself one of these Pipe cutters. If you don't have one, buy one, what a joy to use A clean cut in seconds with no burr.

Agree with you re the pipe cutter, it's a great job!

PatQfarmer

vanderbadger wrote: »

with the newer philmac fittings they do recommend that you give them a squeeze with a wrench

I bought the new fittings at a recent demo in Glanbia and they gave me a Philmac tightener (like an open spanner, but plastic). Useful yoke, but am sure it will get lost at some stage:)

vanderbadger

PatQfarmer wrote: »

I bought the new fittings at a recent demo in Glanbia and they gave me a Philmac tightener (like an open spanner, but plastic). Useful yoke, but am sure it will get lost at some stage:)

ya have one as well, ah i thik they are good enough to hand tighten but the rep i spoke to was adament that the tightener should be used always..i see a few nieghbours now are starting to use the blue pipe as opposed to the old black hydrodare, supposed to be better i think

Muckit

vanderbadger wrote: »

ya have one as well, ah i thik they are good enough to hand tighten but the rep i spoke to was adament that the tightener should be used always..i see a few nieghbours now are starting to use the blue pipe as opposed to the old black hydrodare, supposed to be better i think

Is that blue pipe easily got? Will the philmac fittings work on it?

vanderbadger

Muckit wrote: »

Is that blue pipe easily got? Will the philmac fittings work on it?

id say the pipe is easy got alright, in my pump house the pipe work is all the blue pipe, the fittings look a bit like philmac but the collars are blue so i suspect they are slightly different but i could be wrong there

Muckit

I see. Thanks Vander. I seen the 1/2" version of the 'blue pipe' and the wall isn't as thick as hydradare, but perhaps it's made of a stronger material? Must look into it

vanderbadger

Muckit wrote: »

I see. Thanks Vander. I seen the 1/2" version of the 'blue pipe' and the wall isn't as thick as hydradare, but perhaps it's made of a stronger material? Must look into it

http://www.waterfittings.ie/product/40mm-pipe/

sheafield

Guys blue pipe is getting popular but make sure its not exposed to sunlight as will slowly break it down. Also the Philmac fittings that you use on the heavy gauge are the same ones to join the blue pipe. Same idea with cutting square and tightening with a spanner.......
p.s. those pipe cutters are a great job for opening round bales too...;)

pakalasa

Where I work, we use a lot of fittings on both water and high pressure gas. Generally, there are two types of threaded fittings, tapered and parallel.
With parallel thread, the thread does not provide the seal, usually it's an o-ring or a flat rubber seal.
With threaded fittings, the seal is at the thread (and other faces) and PTFE tape is used as a lubricant to allow the metal of the thread to slide over each other without tearing or galling. So in effect the PTFEt ape doesn't provide the seal, only facilitates it.
I've learned to hate tapered fittings with a passion.