Alternator on a MF 35X

mikefoxo

My Dad is thinking of putting an alternator onto his 35x. Is this going to be a big re-wiring job? I hear something about having to change it from 6 volty to 12 volt.

Attie

Mike
This might be of help.

emaherx

Hi, I put an alternator on my 135.

Existing wiring is no use for an alternator as wire is too light also you need to be able to switch an alternantor on and off, so new Lucas ignition switch required and an idicator lamp.

Wiring is actually simpler for the alernantor as you can remove the voltage regulator (Assuming Modern type alternator from MF240 or similar).

Tractor will need to be 12V (I would imagine to source Alternator), So new Starter and battery leads would be a good idea.

So yes you are looking at a total/near total rewire. (which is probably a good idea on such an old tractor at this stage anyway).

Be very careful about DIY Rewiring jobs, unless you know what you are doing, you could easily create a fire hazzard. Don't forget fuses!!

emaherx

Man of Aran

My memory might be playing tricks but I seem to recall an old 35X used a +Positive Earth, not Negative as today's 12 V chassis tend to use as industry standard.
Just keep that in mind if you go ahead along with good advice from Attie and Emaheryx.

If I am right, you may want to check for correct DoR on your starter motor if transposing from Pos to Neg earth system - there was simple trick to 're -flash' the pole pieces to solve.

mikefoxo

it looks to be a lot more complicted than i thought. it actually has the engine from a 135/240 if that makes a difference (sorry, i forgot to mention that).and what do you mean you have to switch off the alternator? i won't be doing this myself as i haven't a breeze when it comes to electrics:rolleyes:

emaherx

The wiring is not that complicated, but is totally different from its current wiring. The biggest problem is going to be your Starter especially if it is 6V and positive earth. Personally I would just replace starter and install alternator (you wont regret the added reliability of the Alternator over the dynamo especially if you do a lot of stop start work in the winter with lights on.)

The alternator needs to be turned on/off with the key (hence new ignition key switch). The Alternator actually needs to draw a small bit of current from the battery before it starts charging. Look at he diagram, see the key and indicator lamp, the alternator will not charge with out this configuration. Even the light itself is required as a load source, you create a short (possible fire) with out it. Lamp can be replaced with a resistor or any other load source, but the the lamp is best option as it will remind you to turn off the alternator after you stop the tractor.


The circuit is fairly straight forward, but do not proceed unless you understand it!! Try and source a wiring diagram from an MF240, this might be the closest to what you want.

oh!! and did I mention Fuses?? Don't burn down such a nice little tractor!!

And if creating a totally new loom for this tractor don't bypass gearbox safety switch either!!!

mikefoxo

Really what's holding us back from doing this is that it would be taking away from the originality of the tractor. It leads an easy life these days (bit of topping and turning hay in the summer is the most strenuous work), but it's very stop-start work usually and I think maybe it doesn't get enough of a run to recharge the battery fully

emaherx

You could always hold onto dynamo and old loom. Easy to put back.

mikefoxo

would that be possible? would changing the wiring around not mean that the dynamo is then useless?

joe17

hi i have a massey ferguson 165 and my indicator light stays on all the time it when it is started used to go off about a month or two ago what should i do. is it any

emaherx

mikefoxo wrote: »

would that be possible? would changing the wiring around not mean that the dynamo is then useless?

No, I ment phisically removing the current loom intact and dynamo and storing it incase you ever wanted to sell the tractor as original. Personaly I'd think of the Alternator as a welcome upgrade if I was buying one, but you could always give the buyer a choice. ( I know your not selling it, just some thoughts or possible brain farts:rolleyes:)

joe17 wrote: »

hi i have a massey ferguson 165 and my indicator light stays on all the time it when it is started used to go off about a month or two ago what should i do. is it any

Check the wiring, light should go off when tractor is running. As far as I know no 100 series was factory fitted with an alternator, So check any joins in wires espicially if joined with crimpped on connectors, (consider replacing with Soldered connections).

Also in most of these retrofits standard individual blade connectors are used at the alternator end instead of a propper alternator plug which leads to corrosion of the alernator terminals. (Try disconnecting the terminals and cleaning. Disconnect negative lead of battery first for safety) Consider fitting propper alternator plug if not already fitted.

Bad Battery or Alternator may also be responsible for light not going off.

Dose your battery charge?

Dose turning on all of the lights while the engine is running cause the indicator light to get brighter?

Dose reving the engine make the light go off or get dimmer?

joe17

I had to get a new battery as it keaped darning the battery and if i put the lights on the light gets dimer so is it a new Alternator then

emaherx

joe17 wrote: »

I had to get a new battery as it keaped darning the battery and if i put the lights on the light gets dimer so is it a new Alternator then

The light gets dimmer? I would have taught that the light should get brighter! (ie Alternator is charging less)

I'd still be inclined to check wirring before buying new alternator. Have a look at the therminals on the alternator itself. If they are corroded this may be the problem. Just disconnect them and clean them spray some WD40 on them and reconnect. Warning **** wires going into Alternator are connected directly to battery, disconnect battery first**** I know I said this already, but just want to make sure I'm not resposible for a fire!

Man of Aran

Joe, would you be fairly comfortable with DC Electrics yourself and handy with a meter?
If so, it might help you a lot if you picked up a cheap but handy DMM (digital multi meter) - around 20Euro's nowadays in some of those "Cheap Jack" shops or online and then check battery charge rate at idle , fast idle , high RPM and at rest.

Lot's of great instructional coaching videos on DC auto systems on YouTube.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noK-oZMb8i8&feature=endscreen&NR=1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqdrkZu50Vw&feature=endscreen&NR=1

joe17

I checked the wires and one of the wires from the alternator going to the starter the wire part of the plastic is missing and is showing the wire is showing would that be the problem

Man of Aran

Sure it could be very much related ... if moisture got in there and caused corrosion and high resistance throughout that whole wire.
It's the wire behind insulation you dont see now that could be in a bad state. Is it greenish and corroded looking?

Can you disconnect both end s of it ( call it A to from 12v power supply and check it for resistance with Ohmeter function of DMM.
Or alternately bridge from A to B with a new piece of wire as test and see if difference.

joe17

Man of Aran wrote: »

Sure it could be very much related ... if moisture got in there and caused corrosion and high resistance throughout that whole wire.
It's the wire behind insulation you dont see now that could be in a bad state. Is it greenish and corroded looking?

Can you disconnect both end s of it ( call it A to from 12v power supply and check it for resistance with Ohmeter function of DMM.
Or alternately bridge from A to B with a new piece of wire as test and see if difference.

1. ill change the wire tomorrow and ill let ye know then as i dont have a ohmeter at the moment