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Where to begin with Airbrush Painting

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  • 27-04-2012 12:01pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭


    Ok guys, time to hold my hands up & ask for any sagely help/guidance/wisdom yee might be able to offer a airbrush noobie :o

    I've made a couple of starter Airfix kits at this stage & have the basics of that down. I'd like to progress a little further into the painting end of the field, by airbrushing.

    I'm looking to get better finishings, & tackle some bigger models eventually.

    Here's what I have to work with:

    9aydc6.jpg

    Iwata Eclipse CS

    21l41.jpg

    xmiyjl.jpg

    Compressor

    347b1vp.jpg

    mlt6ib.jpg

    15mjn9g.jpg

    1s1rn8.jpg

    24b6kib.jpg

    bbngl.jpg

    14wez5l.jpg

    Is there anything else I need to get started? I know nothing at all about it, & have never held an airbrush in my life. So any help at all is appreciated. I have this model to do

    AX50096.jpg

    So assuming I have enough kit to begin, I have the model & paints...what's my first step? Do I need to dilute the paint or can it be used straight from the model packaging?

    I can practice on old plastic once I'm up & running, but I don't wanna ruin the gun by putting in paint that I shouldn't be using etc.

    Cheers guys


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 49 joesdios


    Hi Enternow I advise diluting acrylic slightly and practise practise and practise
    some more the more lighter layers you use the better the effect dont use enamel
    Good luck and remember practise !


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,208 ✭✭✭The Doktor


    As long as you have the correct thinner for the paint you wont damage your air brush (or water will clean acrylic out if needed).
    Thin the paint, start about 50:50, you might find you will want to go to about 70:30 thinner to paint, specially when preshading aircraft. You will want the air pressure pretty low, but experiment with what suits you.
    remember, its not a wall you are painting, its not about blocks of colour that are identical, shading is important.
    There is too much to try to tell you in one post, but as the previous poster says practice! Fill the airbrush with paint, and draw lines, circles, dots, Xs, all of different thickness. Get used to what happens when you press the trigger, and what happens when you pull it back.

    Also, look at other model forums, like IPMS ireland, as these will give you more information.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭2011abc


    Probably only 4 or 5 sessions ahead of ya !
    Session One- get some kids poster paints/acrylics and dilute the heck out of them(60-70% water) and practice getting the feel of the thing .Maybe I over do it but I find the cleanup often longer than the spraying session .Better err on side of caution I suppose . Acrylics are the only way to go nowadays .Revell Aqua are great .If you use enamels eg 'old' Humbrol you will need smelly , unhealthy thinners and have to work outdoors or get a spray booth with extractor fan .
    Session Two try make shapes and the thinnest lines you can manage on paper
    .Session Three mix up some actual model paint ('milk' is often used to describe thickness and Id say semi skimmed !)Better do two layers of watery paint than have one over thick clog your nozzle/splatter etc .
    SessionThree- paint a ship hull or a similar large object in one colour and be amazed at smoothness of finish that you could never achieve with a brush .
    Eh thats about where Im at !

    If youre a born again modeller like me -a quarter century out of the hobby try get a 'new' kit like some of the Revells eg P51B in 1/72 scale.They are soooo much easier to work with .The likes of the old Airfixes are in some cases only slightly older than the actual planes !!!Some of them date back to 1960s including most likely your Whirlie !While they may be good to 'practice on' a newer kit wil 'fall together' much much easier with regard to fit and gaps etc .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Sound advice lads, very much appreciated.

    So the consensus is start with acrylic, dilute/thin with water in the ratios mentioned & go from there? Grand, at least I have a starting block now.

    Before I buy some paints, should I buy any cleaner product to blow through the brush during cleanup, or do you just fill it with water & spray until clean?

    Thanks again guys


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 joesdios


    Hi Enternow just clean with water after each colour !


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Grand so, the paints that came with the kit are all acrylic so I can begin on those. Is there a specific way of measuring out the paint & mixing, or do I just do it by eye into a small beaker & then pur it into the canister on the brush?

    Sorry, I know these are really basic questions but this is all brand new to me :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 joesdios


    Use a syringe easiest way to measure and less messy!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Ok I got the base coat done, & have the top coat done now. I think the paints that came with the kit are not really ideal for airbrushing, as I can't get a consistent flow out of the gun.

    Most of the time it will begin spraying & then stop, until I release the trigger & then go again. Normally from what I read that'd be paint being too thick & clumping in the brush, correct? However, thinning the paint with water any more will result in the paint being far too wet & rolling off the model. I can't seem to get a nice balance or consistency.

    What brand of paint would be recommended for airfix, standard type aircraft modelling? Also, staying with acrylics, should I continue to thin with water or should I use actual thinners...if so, brand/type recommendations would be really appreciated!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,208 ✭✭✭The Doktor


    "Ok I got the base coat done, & have the top coat done now. I think the paints that came with the kit are not really ideal for airbrushing, as I can't get a consistent flow out of the gun.

    Most of the time it will begin spraying & then stop, until I release the trigger & then go again. Normally from what I read that'd be paint being too thick & clumping in the brush, correct? However, thinning the paint with water any more will result in the paint being far too wet & rolling off the model. I can't seem to get a nice balance or consistency"


    Your paint is too thick.
    Personally, I mix my paint in the airbrush, as with models you often use so little paint its a waste to mix it in a container and pouring it in. I put a couple of drops of paint, a couple of drops of thinner with an eyedropper and then mix with an old brush. The paint should be thin enough to run down the side of the airbrush pot leaving almost no paint sticking to it. (usually Paint:Thinner 30:70)
    You also need to prime your model. I use Halfords type primer (just a mist of it), or somtimes just a very light coat of light grey acrylic. This will make your paint adhere much better.

    "What brand of paint would be recommended for airfix, standard type aircraft modelling? Also, staying with acrylics, should I continue to thin with water or should I use actual thinners...if so, brand/type recommendations would be really appreciated! "

    Throw that rubbish paint you have in the bin!! :D
    I didnt realise you were actually going to use it! Any time ive seen it, it reminds me of when I was little and tried to paint my model with poster paint, it just rolls off.
    also if u thin with water it is harder for the paint to adhere to plastic, fine using water if you were painting paper.
    Acrylic paint is bes thinned with an alcohol based thinner, the manufacturer will provide one.
    Personally I use mainly Tamiya paint, and thin with tamiya thinner. Or vallejo with their thinner. This is somthing thats a personal preference, and id advise try one or two different brands and see what you prefer. You can order both from Netmerchants in Larne.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    The Doktor wrote: »
    "Ok I got the base coat done, & have the top coat done now. I think the paints that came with the kit are not really ideal for airbrushing, as I can't get a consistent flow out of the gun.

    Most of the time it will begin spraying & then stop, until I release the trigger & then go again. Normally from what I read that'd be paint being too thick & clumping in the brush, correct? However, thinning the paint with water any more will result in the paint being far too wet & rolling off the model. I can't seem to get a nice balance or consistency"


    Your paint is too thick.
    Personally, I mix my paint in the airbrush, as with models you often use so little paint its a waste to mix it in a container and pouring it in. I put a couple of drops of paint, a couple of drops of thinner with an eyedropper and then mix with an old brush. The paint should be thin enough to run down the side of the airbrush pot leaving almost no paint sticking to it. (usually Paint:Thinner 30:70)
    You also need to prime your model. I use Halfords type primer (just a mist of it), or somtimes just a very light coat of light grey acrylic. This will make your paint adhere much better.

    "What brand of paint would be recommended for airfix, standard type aircraft modelling? Also, staying with acrylics, should I continue to thin with water or should I use actual thinners...if so, brand/type recommendations would be really appreciated! "

    Throw that rubbish paint you have in the bin!! :D
    I didnt realise you were actually going to use it! Any time ive seen it, it reminds me of when I was little and tried to paint my model with poster paint, it just rolls off.
    also if u thin with water it is harder for the paint to adhere to plastic, fine using water if you were painting paper.
    Acrylic paint is bes thinned with an alcohol based thinner, the manufacturer will provide one.
    Personally I use mainly Tamiya paint, and thin with tamiya thinner. Or vallejo with their thinner. This is somthing thats a personal preference, and id advise try one or two different brands and see what you prefer. You can order both from Netmerchants in Larne.

    Super, super advice...many thanks! Ok, I'll pop into town & pick up some Tamiya paints & thinners, & the vallejo too. Good idea re mixing in the brush too, I was gonna do it but wasn't sure if putting the brush into the pot was detrimental.

    The paint in the kits is absolute muck! I know the brush is fine because when I'm cleaning with water it's perfect. Thanks again!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,208 ✭✭✭The Doktor


    EnterNow wrote: »
    Super, super advice...many thanks! Ok, I'll pop into town & pick up some Tamiya paints & thinners, & the vallejo too. Good idea re mixing in the brush too, I was gonna do it but wasn't sure if putting the brush into the pot was detrimental.

    The paint in the kits is absolute muck! I know the brush is fine because when I'm cleaning with water it's perfect. Thanks again!

    Not a bother :)
    Im not sure where you will get either brand of paint in town, maybe someone else on here knows?
    And just to be aware, you can blow out the airbrush with water to clean it with tamiya paint. Or even better mix water and windowlene in a bottle at about 50:1, I keep a mix of this in a bottle and find it works well. Though usually when I finish a model its best to give it a wipe with thinner and blow a full pot of it through the brush (at higher pressure to give it a good clean.
    You can buy "airbrush cleaner", but its just the above mix that i mentioned sold a high price.
    heres a tip.... get a two litre plastic milk container, put 3 sheets of kitchen paper in it, and you can blow waste paint into it and blow your cleaning solution into it with out making a mess

    Oh and look at IPMS ireland for a few tips, look at the build guides, the two motorbikes are mine :D

    http://www.ipmsireland.com/models/kitbuilds/index.htm


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭2011abc


    Oh and dont forget that its best wash the kit in mild soapy water to remove the 'wax' /release agent that is on injection moulded kits before painting.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    2011abc wrote: »
    Oh and dont forget that its best wash the kit in mild soapy water to remove the 'wax' /release agent that is on injection moulded kits before painting.

    Yep, learned that the hard way on the first few kits I painted by hand. Absolute nightmare if you don't wash them first. I'm gonna try source paints either locally, or if not then online & continue on. It's just pointless continuing on with the paints I have because they just arn't consistent through the brush


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 joesdios


    Hi Enternow marks models in hawkins st. and toymaster upstairs corner of jervis st. mary st. have all the tamiya paints you need and they are by far the best on the market in my opinion for their finish and coverage as my model dios are on average 2ft by 4ft by 3ft high and one little tin goes a long way have a look at some of mine to see what i mean and good luck with your modeling.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Help & Feedback Category Moderators Posts: 25,271 CMod ✭✭✭✭Spear


    joesdios wrote: »
    Hi Enternow marks models in hawkins st. and toymaster upstairs corner of jervis st. mary st. have all the tamiya paints you need and they are by far the best on the market in my opinion for their finish and coverage as my model dios are on average 2ft by 4ft by 3ft high and one little tin goes a long way have a look at some of mine to see what i mean and good luck with your modeling.

    To expand on this a little, the Tamiya paints can be thinned with isopropyl alcohol. I've found they airbrushed pretty well as is, but it seems to be widespread opinion that adding about another 50% isopropyl works well, i.e. fill a fresh jar up to the top with IPA. Tamiya do their own brand thinner, which is mostly IPA, but the stocking of it is unpredictable, whereas IPA is easily available in my local chemist.

    My Tiger was done with an Iwata Eclipse CS and Tamiya paints mostly:

    DSC00273_thumb.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,208 ✭✭✭The Doktor


    Spear wrote: »
    To expand on this a little, the Tamiya paints can be thinned with isopropyl alcohol. I've found they airbrushed pretty well as is, but it seems to be widespread opinion that adding about another 50% isopropyl works well, i.e. fill a fresh jar up to the top with IPA. Tamiya do their own brand thinner, which is mostly IPA, but the stocking of it is unpredictable, whereas IPA is easily available in my local chemist.

    My Tiger was done with an Iwata Eclipse CS and Tamiya paints mostly:
    ][/URL]



    Yes you can use IPA, water, Cellulose thinner.. loads of stuff. But the actual thinner for the paint isnt just IPA, it has flow agents and a retarder in it which make the paint behave better. Its not expensive, and in my opinion gives a different finish to other thinning agents. It also gives a better surface if you want to use things like oil washes. Saying that, If i want to get a better rust effect on things like exhausts i use cellulose thinner and you get a slightly dustier finish :)
    When I started using tamiya acrylics years ago, I used IPA. Then one day got some tamiya thinner, and when i used it, thought "oh, thats why you use it!"
    You will really see the benifit of using the correct thinner on 1/72 aircraft and when you go down the road of shading.
    Youll generally get it in hannants or netmerchants, though ive two litres of it so havent had to look for it for a while!! :) the 250ml container will last you at least 10 models
    heres my last tiger(s)...
    two20tigers202.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    joesdios wrote: »
    toymaster upstairs corner of jervis st. mary st. have all the tamiya paints you need

    Sweet! I know it well, cheers man :cool:
    Spear wrote: »
    I've found they airbrushed pretty well as is

    As in without any thinner at all?
    The Doktor wrote: »
    Youll generally get it in hannants or netmerchants, though ive two litres of it so havent had to look for it for a while!! :) the 250ml container will last you at least 10 models

    Much appreciated man!

    Fantastic modelling lads, I'm a long way off that level in your pics, but it's seriously good to have advice from people who can do it to that caliber! I thank you all so far :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,718 ✭✭✭johnayo


    Lads, this is a brilliant thread. Years and years since I've built models but I will definitely be giving something a go in the next few weeks.

    Where is the best place to get the air brush and compressor etc. Would I buy these as a kit or are they best bought as separate items. Are some better than others?


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Help & Feedback Category Moderators Posts: 25,271 CMod ✭✭✭✭Spear


    EnterNow wrote: »
    As in without any thinner at all?

    Yes, but you'd better off to heed the Doktors advice and use proper thinner, or IPA as a fallback.


    Johnay, I got mine from http://airbrushes.co.uk/ where they had a bundle deal for an Iwata and compressor at the time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,208 ✭✭✭The Doktor


    Spear wrote: »
    Johnay, I got mine from http://airbrushes.co.uk/ where they had a bundle deal for an Iwata and compressor at the time.

    Cant recommend that place enough for an Iwata. And they have all the spares,
    but www.everythingairbrush.com for the AS series compressors, great value.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    While I'm stopped at the moment waiting for paints & supplies, I've been reading/watching videos on compressors. My compressor has two stages, the first maintains a pressure of 4 bar, & the other is higher at 6bar. Is this way too much? I'm seeing 20psi mentioned a lot...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,208 ✭✭✭The Doktor


    EnterNow wrote: »
    While I'm stopped at the moment waiting for paints & supplies, I've been reading/watching videos on compressors. My compressor has two stages, the first maintains a pressure of 4 bar, & the other is higher at 6bar. Is this way too much? I'm seeing 20psi mentioned a lot...

    Ive pretty much the same compressor as you. The lower pressure one is fine.
    That setting turns off the compressor when the pressure is right, the other keeps it going all the time.
    Keeping it going is what you might do when using paint for RC bodies cos its pretty thick and heavy, but for what you are doing about 20 psi is fine, id say you will fine its better a little lower, but this is personal.

    What I do is, thin the paint, turn the pressure right down and slowly turn it up till the paint vapourises rather than spits.
    Though my advise to you is.... practise on paper with dark paint, you will see quick enough whats right and whats wrong.


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