Peugeot 406 1.9 advice needed!

dgt

Hi all

I have a 98 Peugeot 406. Decent car but a few niggles that I need to sort!

First is the annoying issue of the glow plugs. I got the car without the fuse for it in. I put it in and this happens:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmZes4iClno

Without it in the car runs very well but sounds so rough and is near impossible to start!!!

Gawking under the bonnet today I find that the relay has been fiddled with...



I knew that it had been repaired (people test driving the car broke the connection to the stop solenoid) but I didn't realise it was coming from the relay. Could it be as simple as a failing unit? Or would that wire to the solenoid be causing the car to stall after starting???

I found this plug disconnected under the injector pump, where does it go?


My mileometer doesn't light up, are they bulbs or leds?

Also my boot fills with water from the right hand side! Saw my right tail light is broke too at the top any common places where these cars leak or would the tail light cause that? I have it up on ramps and its dripping all over the ground from the spare wheel well!

Cheers for any input

dgt

A cheap bump :pac:

I solved the water issue, turns out my tail light is broke and was letting water in

Any advice on my turbo? It's very oily

Pottler

Turbo seals knackered and on its way out? Heater plug relay too weak and burns out so people by-pass them and add a 12v heavy feed with a HD relay to carry the current - google it and you might pick up the website of an american lad who shows step by step how to build a simple heavy duty relay to run the glow circuit. Also replace the thermostat(simple, 3 bolts on housing at end of top hose, pop old out, pop new in- even if the old one looks good, they are usually knackered and leave engine harder on fuel and a crap heater output). Have a good root around at the fuel lines going to the filter/heater-they often leak air in and leave them a beatch to start - if you put a good dollop of grease around all the unions and then find it easier to start you have an air leak. Replace/tighten the unions. Also, when you get time, do away with the egr by blanking it=a bit more power, better running and easier on diesel.:) Turbos are fun to do if you don't have access to a lift:) Also make sure all vacuum lines are sound - engine needs a good supply of vacuum to run well.

Mycroft H

Pottler wrote: »

Turbo seals knackered and on its way out? Heater plug relay too weak and burns out so people by-pass them and add a 12v heavy feed with a HD relay to carry the current - google it and you might pick up the website of an american lad who shows step by step how to build a simple heavy duty relay to run the glow circuit. Also replace the thermostat(simple, 3 bolts on housing at end of top hose, pop old out, pop new in- even if the old one looks good, they are usually knackered and leave engine harder on fuel and a crap heater output). Have a good root around at the fuel lines going to the filter/heater-they often leak air in and leave them a beatch to start - if you put a good dollop of grease around all the unions and then find it easier to start you have an air leak. Replace/tighten the unions. Also, when you get time, do away with the egr by blanking it=a bit more power, better running and easier on diesel.:) Turbos are fun to do if you don't have access to a lift:) Also make sure all vacuum lines are sound - engine needs a good supply of vacuum to run well.

I'd say thats a new turbo tbh. I wouldnt be to surprised if the blades have suffered from oil starvation.

I'm not sure about the EGR. I've seen a removed EGR on a 1.9 XUD an it did diddly squat. Didn't improve anything at all. Plus the clips on the EGR are a pain in the arse to remove refit with the engine in situ. Plus I've heard that it
causes the turbo to run hotter then it should.

+1 on the vacume. Look for the solonoids for the EGR too and make sure they are working.


They are a super reliable engine once looked after though (niggle little cooling issues aside though)

dgt

Pottler wrote: »

Turbo seals knackered and on its way out? Heater plug relay too weak and burns out so people by-pass them and add a 12v heavy feed with a HD relay to carry the current - google it and you might pick up the website of an american lad who shows step by step how to build a simple heavy duty relay to run the glow circuit. Also replace the thermostat(simple, 3 bolts on housing at end of top hose, pop old out, pop new in- even if the old one looks good, they are usually knackered and leave engine harder on fuel and a crap heater output). Have a good root around at the fuel lines going to the filter/heater-they often leak air in and leave them a beatch to start - if you put a good dollop of grease around all the unions and then find it easier to start you have an air leak. Replace/tighten the unions. Also, when you get time, do away with the egr by blanking it=a bit more power, better running and easier on diesel.:) Turbos are fun to do if you don't have access to a lift:) Also make sure all vacuum lines are sound - engine needs a good supply of vacuum to run well.

I never thought of the thermostat, it does take its time warming up and isn't anywhere near half on the temp gauge...

The main intake pipe is split and held with tape!

I may check the fuel lines in daylight so

BX 19 wrote: »

I'd say thats a new turbo tbh. I wouldnt be to surprised if the blades have suffered from oil starvation.

I'm not sure about the EGR. I've seen a removed EGR on a 1.9 XUD an it did diddly squat. Didn't improve anything at all. Plus the clips on the EGR are a pain in the arse to remove refit with the engine in situ. Plus I've heard that it
causes the turbo to run hotter then it should.

+1 on the vacume. Look for the solonoids for the EGR too and make sure they are working.


They are a super reliable engine once looked after though (niggle little cooling issues aside though)

I never would have thought that may be a new turbo! :eek:

I'm thinking of getting one as a spare... Just to be on the safe side

I heard that too about the egr, beneficial on a petrol or non turbo diesel

What coolant do these cars take? As in 2, 3 or 5 year coolant? Do not want to put the wrong stuff in!

Row

I would'nt be in a hurry to get the auto electrician that carried out that standard of work...:eek:
These engines will turn over and over unless the the glowplugs & relay are working correctly so your starting problems will not be resolved until all is working again.
As for the engine starting and cutting out i'd be thinking someone bypassed and powered the stop solenoid (immob) on the pump from a separate feed to get it running.
Clean the oil around the turbo and see where the oil is coming from...it maybe only a split hose etc.
The rear light clusters do leak past water so remove and clean seals and refit.

I have been running one of these (96) td's and never had a problem with the glowplug relay (only glowplugs) and the turbo is as dry as a cork...but then again theres only 230k mls on it...:p

dgt

Row wrote: »

I would'nt be in a hurry to get the auto electrician that carried out that standard of work...:eek:
These engines will turn over and over unless the the glowplugs & relay are working correctly so your starting problems will not be resolved until all is working again.
As for the engine starting and cutting out i'd be thinking someone bypassed and powered the stop solenoid (immob) on the pump from a separate feed to get it running.
Clean the oil around the turbo and see where the oil is coming from...it maybe only a split hose etc.
The rear light clusters do leak past water so remove and clean seals and refit.

I have been running one of these (96) td's and never had a problem with the glowplug relay (only glowplugs) and the turbo is as dry as a cork...but then again theres only 230k mls on it...:p

As I found out when the battery drained!

Indeed it has been bypassed, the chap selling the car had an "issue" where some test drivers broke the top off the solenoid in a bit to get the car for peanuts Is there a plug or a cap that sits on top of the solenoid? Its the way I got the car...!

I was thinking of taking the turbo off and giving it a good cleaning when I get the time, hopefully it is a split pipe. No blue smoke from the exhaust and not much oil in the air pipes for a 185k mile car

The light was cracked at the top and when I took it off, it let water out for ages! Getting a new light tomorrow

Well wear with the mileage! Goes to show what's achievable with routing maintainance

Mycroft H

dgt wrote: »

I never would have thought that may be a new turbo! :eek:

I'm thinking of getting one as a spare... Just to be on the safe side

I heard that too about the egr, beneficial on a petrol or non turbo diesel

What coolant do these cars take? As in 2, 3 or 5 year coolant? Do not want to put the wrong stuff in!

Not too sure about the turbo. Worst case scenario is a new one though.

Coolant I would change every two year in those engines. Any decent antifreeze will do. The €4.50 a bottle of Holts blue antifreeze is good enough. The fresh rust inhibitor in the coolant is worth it (you really don't want to change a heater matrix tbh...). The coolant system is a little bit awkward on this. Some parts of the engine are higher then the expansion bottle. You don't want to get air trapped in the system. Some people use a cut up plastic bottle to effectively rise the header tank above the highest point in the engine. Have a google around for the various methods.

There are 3 bleed points as far as I recall, top left of the engine, one of the heater matrix and one near enough to the thermostat housing. Keep these open until there is a steady stream of liquid coming out of them (no air..)

When the thermostat housing opens, you should get a drop in the level in the expansion bottle. Keep topping up until the level stabilises.


EDIT:

Careful about removing the pipes that connect the EGR when removing the turbo, they are a crappy jubilee clip design that destroys your soul trying to refit them due to the tight clearances.

dgt

Phew, 2 year coolant. We have lots of that here

Doesn't sound easy to do! But I'll give it a shot, was thinking of taking the hose off the radiator and filling through there... I'll google it anyway

I think I know the clip your on about, its like this but not with the bolt! Awful miserable stuff indeed!

Mycroft H

dgt wrote: »

Phew, 2 year coolant. We have lots of that here

Doesn't sound easy to do! But I'll give it a shot, was thinking of taking the hose off the radiator and filling through there... I'll google it anyway

I think I know the clip your on about, its like this but not with the bolt! Awful miserable stuff indeed!

Ah its not too awkward. Just a few precautions over the standard coolant change.

Yep, thats the little cursed thing. If I had a swear jar by the time I finished putting them back on, it would have been very full.

Pottler

I just bin the clips and use stainless jubilees... I also hate the whole egr story, I bin them whenever I can. Suck in the burnt fumy gas through your intake manifold to gum everything up and coat every surface with crud...errr, no. +1 on the might be a pipe split and that they are a good engine - I run 3 and one has 490k up:D

Row

Pottler wrote: »

I run 3 and one has 490k up:D

:eek:..Mine is only run in then...:D
i'm waiting for my original clutch to wear out but it refuses to fail....:)
Can't say the same for the dmf's on the modern diesels today...:rolleyes:

Pottler

Row wrote: »

:eek:..Mine is only run in then...:D
i'm waiting for my original clutch to wear out but it refuses to fail....:)
Can't say the same for the dmf's on the modern diesels today...:rolleyes:

I've got a bit of judder creeping in though!:D Gone all old school lately, started only dealing with late 90's metal - I can fix them, it's cheap, and the new ones bore me rigid. I do slightly prefer Citroens take on the same engine though... just a bit more accessable. Fiats the same as peugeot. But, tough as old boots.:)

dgt

Just serviced today, oil was a disgrace :mad:

A new fault has developed, it randomly cuts out... Stop solenoid giving trouble? Just want t make sure it is it giving grief

dgt

Anyone out there know what this stalk is for?



Is there anywhere I can put a wire through the bulkhead?

Row

Thats the radio control....You maybe have enough room in around the accelerator cable grommet..:)

dgt

Row wrote: »

Thats the radio control....You maybe have enough room in around the accelerator cable grommet..:)

Cheers for putting my mind at rest! I was afraid it was cruise controll :eek:

The original radio wasn't in the car when I got it, I may replace that shroud with one that hasn't those controlls

I'll have a look at that grommet in daylight

dgt

Yep, me again with more questions! This car baffles me at times :pac:

First, thanks Row, I found a grommet in the passengers footwell, it's behind the carpet so some of the trim has to come back to access it. I tried and tried with the accelerator but it was having none of it!

My right full beam refuses to work... Foolishly thought a new bulb would cure all! Seems to be no power getting to it... Checked the fuses, wires seem fine, is there any earthing points that give trouble? She takes a H7

Are there many implications in installing rear electric windows? I got door cards from a GLX which are rear elec only... Are they plug and play with a different loom?

Thanks for reading

dgt

dgt wrote: »

Yep, me again with more questions! This car baffles me at times :pac:

First, thanks Row, I found a grommet in the passengers footwell, it's behind the carpet so some of the trim has to come back to access it. I tried and tried with the accelerator but it was having none of it!

My right full beam refuses to work... Foolishly thought a new bulb would cure all! Seems to be no power getting to it... Checked the fuses, wires seem fine, is there any earthing points that give trouble? She takes a H7

Are there many implications in installing rear electric windows? I got door cards from a GLX which are rear elec only... Are they plug and play with a different loom?

Thanks for reading

Bump!

Foolishly thought that the rear windows were plug and play... Looms, switches and all buttons installed but no joy! as if there is no power going to them...

Is there a relay or fuse to put in in the fusebox or the engine bay?

Any help is appreciated