Connecting a flue to my stove

Jack_regan

Hi everybody,

Just looking for some advice about connecting the flue to the multifuel stove. Well more to the point, how to actually seal it. I've tried a few different products with varying success.

The stove has been in a couple of years now and the existing fire cement from a tube was all cracked up so I decided to renew it, I probably should have left well enough alone.

Anyway I replaced it with a high temperature silicone( 260 degrees celcius), which was a disaster. I left it to dry for 24 hours like it said on the tube before lighting a small fire. Anyway once the fire was lit and burning for about half an hour the silicone started bubbling out at one point and spilling out onto the stove top.



The reason I picked the high temperature silicone rather than the fire cement in a tube was because I was looking for something that would remain flexible. I've since learned from reading some of the threads on this forum that stoves can reach temperatures of 400- 450 degrees Celsius. I'm guessing the high temperature silicone is not the right product for the job.

I removed all the silicone which was a major job, which involve removing the whole flue and scraping it off with a knife and wire wool.

After the performance with the silicone, I resorted back to the high temperature fire cement in a tube. I also got some new 8mm ceramic rope because the existing ceramic rope was all broken up with the removal of the flue. I wrapped the ceramic rope around three times in the large gap and twice in the smaller gap and then put on the high temperature fire cement and left to dry for 48 hours like it said on the tube before lighting a small fire.



I also had to seal where the flue goes up the chimney, I reused the existing ceramic rope that was still in good order and added the left over 8mm ceramic rope that I had used on the stove. I then sealed it all with ordinary fire cement from a tub . I wedged a bit of chicken wire up into the fire cement to reinforce it as when it was put in initially when I first got the stove with out the chicken wire it all fell out after a few weeks. It seems to be holding good so far.





Anyway back to the problem at hand. Where I have used the high temperature fire cement from a tube to seal up the flue at the stove, it has all started cracking again.(No surprises there) The stove is fitted with a reducer ring and the fire cement right beside the flue (the smaller gap) has all risen up and broken away. So I'm wondering is the ceramic rope too wide for the gap or did I pack it in too tightly. 8 mm ceramic rope was the smallest I could get my hands on in the local hardware shop.









Can anybody suggest an alternative product that I can use to seal the stove and flue? Or am I doing something wrong with the high temperature fire cement in a tube? Should I forget about the ceramic rope? Any advice greatly appreciated. What's worked for you?

Thanks

Jack_regan

Hi plumbing and heating moderator.

Just wondering would I have a better chance of getting a reply to my query if this thread was moved to the stoves section sticky. I think there is some rule about not posting the same thread twice so if you could move it for me that would be appreciated.

I was originally going to post it in the stoves section but that seemed to be mainly dealing with queries about buying stoves hence my decision to post it in the main plumbing and heating section.

Sorry for any inconvenience caused,

Thanks

* Answered below by the chap who most likely would have. if you still want it moved let me know by PM*

Stove Fan

Unfortunately I have the same problem, due to thermal expansion. I just reseal it as needed:rolleyes:

Make sure the stove doesn't rock/move and the fluepipe is well fixed.

Can't advice anything else unfortunately:(

Stove Fan:)

Black Bloc

I have used a red colour high temperature silicone type sealant on two stoves at the flue joint. It remains elastic. Perfect. No problems after six years. The bad news is that I used in Italy and I don't remember the trade name. If I have time tomorrow I will search around some Italian sites and see if I come up with it. It must be available throughout the EU.

Jack_regan

Stove Fan wrote: »

Unfortunately I have the same problem, due to thermal expansion. I just reseal it as needed:rolleyes:

Make sure the stove doesn't rock/move and the fluepipe is well fixed.

Can't advice anything else unfortunately:(

Stove Fan:)

Thanks for the reply Stove Fan, glad to hear I'm not the only one with the problem, Do you use the ceramic rope as well or do you just use the high temperature fire cement on it's own. It would be fairly hard to move the stove as it's a boiler stove so it's fixed to copper pipes and of course it weighs a tonne, no rock/movement at all. It's just the flue moving like you say.

It moved a fair bit to push all the fire cement right up and out of the reducer ring so I was wondering did I put too much ceramic rope in. I'm thinking maybe I should take out some of the ceramic rope and put a greater quantity of fire cement into the gap. The guy in the hardware store said to overlap the ceramic rope in case it moved and there was a gap.

The other thing I'm thinking is that there are still traces of the high temperature silicone on the flue that may not be helping things. I thought I got it all off during the clean up job, which took ages. Hopefully somebody reading this will learn from my mistake. :mad:DO NOT USE HIGH TEMPERATURE SILICONE TO SEAL A STOVE AND FLUE TOGETHER(260 degrees Celcius).

Sure I still have some of the high temperature fire cement in a tube left over so I'll give it another go. I really think somebody needs to develop a flexible solution to seal stoves but looking at the next post from Blac Bloc there may be a solution on the horizon.:):)

Thanks again for the reply

Jack_regan

Black Bloc wrote: »

I have used a red colour high temperature silicone type sealant on two stoves at the flue joint. It remains elastic. Perfect. No problems after six years. The bad news is that I used in Italy and I don't remember the trade name. If I have time tomorrow I will search around some Italian sites and see if I come up with it. It must be available throughout the EU.

Hi Black Bloc

Thanks for your reply, good to hear that somebody has found a solution to the problem.:) Are stoves in Italy generally red in colour, that seems to be the only flaw with the product you are talking about, although saying that if it's as good as you say I can live with a red sealant(perhaps it is over paint-able with a high temperature black paint).

I'd say I'd want to be a bit more careful if I manage to get my hands on some of this Italian silicone type sealant when it comes to applying it. I'm thinking masking tape, yes definitely lots of masking tape.

If you get a chance to post a link to the product you're talking about in the next few days, that would be great.

Thanks again for the reply.

g*n*r

Good day to you Mr. Regan. I would like to inform you of a little known tip that was shared with me by a very dear friend of mine who earns his living as a stove and heater installer. Following much trial and error he found that the most effective sealant for flues was a blend a Johnson's baby oil and Marmalade (preferably non-chunky) at approximately a 1:9 mix ratio. It has the added benefit of filling your home with a deliciously fresh citrus fragrance. I hope this was been of some help to you. If you have any further questions regarding this method feel free to ask. I wish you every luck in your endeavors, you are a true gentleman:)


*Folks it would be nice if someone could confirm that marmalade is now used for something more than spreading on toast. I dont imagine this would be very wise either way. At least you will kill a lot of flies*

Black Bloc

The silicone I used is generically marketed as silicone "rosso" 300 - it is good up to 300C. The bead is so thin, it is not noticeable around the junction. The companies Fischer and Unifix make high temperature silicones in neutral colours.

I suspect that the stoves (wood burning) are designed so that the temperature at the junctions doesn't reach more than 300C. But that is just a guess. Our stoves are all convection based - tiles in a frame covering a stove body - rather than the purely radiant type (big box of cast iron) and possibly these latter types reach a higher temperature. But even for these there is a solution. It is a paste used on engine exhausts (car, truck, marine, etc.,) made by CRC - CRC exhaust paste.

Jack_regan

Hi Black Bloc

Thanks for the reply and for providing the name of the product you used in Italy and for the other suggestions. I'm trying to work out at the moment what temperature my stove reaches (Not having much luck). It's a Brosley stove Herules 30B.

http://www.broseleyfires.com/Wood-Burning-Stoves/Hercules-30B_Woodburning-Boiler-Stove.html

I'm a bit reluctant to use a product with a maximum temperature of 300 degrees Celsius after my previous experience with the high temperature silicone 260 degrees Celsius. Perhaps I didn't apply it correctly, but I followed the directions on the tube and let it dry for 24 hours by which time it is supposed to be fully cured according to the instructions.

I have some of the high temperature fire cement left over so I may as well have another go with that rather than throwing the remainder in the bin. I'll probably apply it a bit thicker, build it up a bit and see how it goes.

Thanks for the suggestions

Jack_regan

I got this from http://www.woodstoves.co.uk/html/faq.html

Lighting and combustion

The primary air is drawn into the stove through the slide on the door. The secondary air is regulated with the aid of a slider above the door. The heated secondary air flows down the viewing window and then feeds the fire; it is this secondary combustion that completes the burning cycle by turning unburned volatiles into flame.

As much as half of the heat obtainable from wood is obtained from this secondary combustion. It is important that the firebox temperature is maintained at a high level as this also aids complete combustion. The use of a stove pipe thermometer is recommended, as this will indicate stove performance. For Example, when first lighting a stove it is important to get it really hot before closing the burning rate down. The firebox temperature should reach 400C which equates to approximately 250C at the flue pipe.

If the stove is operated at this optimum level very clean combustion can be achieved with little or no smoke visible from the chimney.

Does anybody have any further information regarding the operating temperature of cast iron stoves. I know it's going to vary greatly depending on what you're burning. My stove is fairly big at 30 kw heat output so perhaps it reaches higher temperatures than the high temperature silicone can cope with.

Jack_regan

After some further searching on Google, I think I've found a solution for my problem. The product is called envirograf stoveseal. It doesn't seem to be available to purchase over here so I'll probably have to order from the uk. Has anybody used it before? Is it available to buy anywhere in Ireland? It is supposed to be a 1250 degree Celsius silicone product.

http://www.woodburningstovesandflues.co.uk/flue-accessories-high-temperature-sealants-c-70_89_98/envirograf-stoveseal-grey-sealant-p-281

http://www.redhotglass.net/Cement_and_Sealants/Silicone_Sealant/Envirograf_STOVESEAL_Grey_Sealant_-_310ml_Cartridge/RHG-13-HTSE


It's also available for purchase on Ebay- doesn't appear to post to Ireland though. Looks a slightly different product, packaging looks different anyway and has a maximum temperature of 1200 degrees Celsius.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Envirograf-1200C-Silicone-Fireproof-Sealant-77-01-996-/310187146269?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Other_Fireplaces&hash=item4838983c1d#shId

Apparently according to another forum where it is reviewed, it is recommended to let it dry slowly (3 days for every 10mm bead thickness), which is a bit of a drawback with the way the weather is at the minute. I think I'll wait for the weather to get a bit warmer before having another go using the Envirograf silicone product, (if I can get it delivered to Ireland) and just repair with the high temperature fire cement for now.

Thanks again to everybody for all the advice and if you have any more advice to add that would be much appreciated.

Black Bloc

Are you burning wood or coal? If the stove needs a sealant that withstands temperatures up to 1200C maybe there is something else that requires attention. Personally, I would be very worried if any stove was generating such heat. It is foundry temperature.

For the record, in Ireland we have two stoves made by Italian company Anselmo and two British cast iron Hunter stoves. We never burn coal. From what I can see at the flue collars there are traces of something grey, probably fire cement, but hardly visible.

I wonder is your problem at the level of stove construction, metal used in the construction, fuel, draught or some combination of all of these. I don't believe a flue collar should be giving so much trouble unless there is a design or manufacturing fault, or just a normal wear-and-tear issue.

My understanding of stoves is limited to using them, but I would guess that the hot gases leaving the firebox should ideally ascend through a straight flue for a distance before being turned through an angle. Otherwise the gases run into a 'baffle'. Having said that I have one stove, an Anslemo, that has its flue at 90 almost right off the top and then up the chimney. I get away with it because the draught is so strong. All the other stoves pipes ascend vertically and have draught valves fitted about 150mm from the stove top. Without these, we could burn a small forest in a day.

Jack_regan

Hi Black Bloc

Thanks for the reply. No coal in the stove, just wood and peat briquettes. As you can see in the pictures I have two 45 degree angled flue sections coming out of the stove and then a metre long straight flue going up into the chimney. We have a good draught here also, so no problems there.

No I don't think I need the silicone to withstand temperatures of 1200 degrees Celsius, I'm just a little reluctant to rely on a relatively low temperature silicone sealant (260 degrees Celsius) so close to the stove firebox or even the one you recommended (300 degrees Celsius) after the experience I had with it.

I've been reading a few other threads on different forums about this problem. On one of them, one of the contributors was recommending having a flexible sealant at the point that the flue enters the chimney. This allows the flue to expand a little and at the point it enters the chimney and then if you're using fire cement at the point where the flue joins the stove then it is going to be less likely to crack. Seems like sound advice to me as obviously the temperature at the point where the flue enters the chimney is going to be considerably lower than right beside the firebox.

I've used ordinary fire cement from a tub at the point where the flue enters the chimney and then because I have the two 45 degree bends at the point where the flue exits the stove, the flue is more likely to move at the bends, as it's a weak point. If I'd had a straight length of flue right out of the stove and up the chimney I'm guessing I wouldn't be having this problem as the flue would only have one way to expand; up the chimney.

There is also the possibility that the ceramic rope I have used is too wide for the gap. The ceramic rope I got is 8mm. It fitted in okay once I stretched it out as I put it in but it wouldn't have fitted in if I hadn't stretched it to wedge it in.

I'm happy enough now that I have found a product that will do the job(provided I can get my hands on it), just need to wait for a day when I'm feeling patient before having another crack at it.

Thanks again for the advice

ani_mal

Hi all

I have an oven door, and the second glass (inside one) lost its seal and fell out. I want to seal it back on its place but not sure what to use. I already used fire cement but its not good as the seal comes off.

Is there anything suitable?

thx

swatson88

Hello ive just installed a hunter herald 5. All went well apart from when i fired it up. The 1250º silicon keeps bubbling up and looks nasty. Has anybody else had the same problem thanks simon

Robbie.G

swatson88 wrote: »

Hello ive just installed a hunter herald 5. All went well apart from when i fired it up. The 1250º silicon keeps bubbling up and looks nasty. Has anybody else had the same problem thanks simon

Don't use heat silicon it's horrible stuff use fire cement you can get it by the tub or in a tube.But if you post a pic of the area your on about someone will advise of best use

swatson88

Robbie.G wrote: »

Don't use heat silicon it's horrible stuff use fire cement you can get it by the tub or in a tube.But if you post a pic of the area your on about someone will advise of best use

Hello mate thanks for reply. I will up load some picturs soon. The silicone has gone like cement but bubbled out abit is ther any way i can scrap it of and seal with fire cement.? The joints to me look awful as they was spot on when i finished thanks simon

Robbie.G

swatson88 wrote: »

Hello mate thanks for reply. I will up load some picturs soon. The silicone has gone like cement but bubbled out abit is ther any way i can scrap it of and seal with fire cement.? The joints to me look awful as they was spot on when i finished thanks simon

It will clean but its a bugger to do you have to just have patients.the cement should be left to air cure 24hrs then a very small fire just to heat it slightly then your good to go.

swatson88

I have 2 x 45º flue pipe to bring the stove out, could i scrap of the silicone a thry to squees a thin beed of fir cent in or would i have to seperate the 2 and start again? Ylthis is the first time ive ever installed one its simple and have saved a shed load of money. this is the only problem im having? Are the joints likely to leak if the silicone has bubbled? thanks simon

Robbie.G

swatson88 wrote: »

I have 2 x 45º flue pipe to bring the stove out, could i scrap of the silicone a thry to squees a thin beed of fir cent in or would i have to seperate the 2 and start again? Ylthis is the first time ive ever installed one its simple and have saved a shed load of money. this is the only problem im having? Are the joints likely to leak if the silicone has bubbled? thanks simon

Right before we start I'm glad you think it's easy to fit a stove.First does your stove comply with building regs?what way have you your flue connected?Does your hearth protrude a min of 225mm in front of your stove?Have you a carbon monoxide alarm fitted.Have you a debree collection point in your stove.
I was called to a stove that someone fitted themselves as they thought it was easy to do.Firstly the hearth was wrong,They had fitted a flexi liner designed for Gas or Oil single walled 90 degree bend on back of stove flue blocked they could have killed themselves with carbon monoxide.I told them to take it out and start again.
Sorry if you think I'm been dramatic but it annoys me when people think its easy and most don't even know anything about installing stoves of even what regs governs them.

swatson88

Hi ive installed a hunter herald 5 slime line. I have grade 904 flexi liner which is attached to a cowl at the chimney. At the bottom it goes into a connector which is screwed and fire cemented on. Then i have my register plate which all the angle has been sealed so it air tight the flue pipe then goes into the bottom end off connector which joins to 2x 45º angles then into the top of the stove all joints aresealed like weve been talking about. The stove is level with 300mm of hearth to the front of the stove 150mm down the sides and 260mm at the rear of the stove. It does hav a debree pan in the stove. And i have a carbon monoxide detctor which has a life span of 10years down stairs and one on the landing. I had it signed of by a hetas profesional tuesday does this comply with regs?

swatson88

I also had my flue joins with the femal end facing upwards and the male goin in faceing down for condensation purposes. I also have a inspection hatch on the registerplate and the flue

Robbie.G

swatson88 wrote: »

Hi ive installed a hunter herald 5 slime line. I have grade 904 flexi liner which is attached to a cowl at the chimney. At the bottom it goes into a connector which is screwed and fire cemented on. Then i have my register plate which all the angle has been sealed so it air tight the flue pipe then goes into the bottom end off connector which joins to 2x 45º angles then into the top of the stove all joints aresealed like weve been talking about. The stove is level with 300mm of hearth to the front of the stove 150mm down the sides and 260mm at the rear of the stove. It does hav a debree pan in the stove. And i have a carbon monoxide detctor which has a life span of 10years down stairs and one on the landing. I had it signed of by a hetas profesional tuesday does this comply with regs?

Then if you had it done by a fitter then why imply you fitted it yourself.Then your fitter should have used the correct sealant for the flue

swatson88

Can you read. I had the stove signed of by a profesional i installed it my self. I also bought the silicon from a stove shop

Robbie.G

swatson88 wrote: »

Can you read. I had the stove signed of by a profesional i installed it my self. I also bought the silicon from a stove shop

Then ask your professional

KoolKid

Abusive post deleted and an infraction for swatson88.
If you wish to continue posting here please be civil to others.

Jack_regan

Success at last! Just a quick update, thanks to a private message I've found a solution to my problem. I was recommended mixing in some tech 7 with the fire cement as a way of binding the fire cement together and stopping the cracking/ breaking up. Luckily I still had some of the fire cement left over from last time and also the remnants of a tube of tech 7 so it didn't actually cost me anything.

I went for a two thirds fire cement one third tech 7 mix and I applied it at the joint on top of the ceramic rope.I left it to dry for a few days before lighting a small fire. Anyway so far so good. It's only been in a week but it's holding well so far.

Thanks again to the poster who sent the private message and below are some pictures of the stove. Just as a note of caution the tech 7 is only rated up to temperatures of 95 degrees Celsius so this may not be suitable for all scenarios.

My own understanding of it is that the fire cement protects the tech 7 from the heat, but anyway whatever the science behind the process, it works!

Below are some pictures of the stove/ flue joint and the products used.

Jack_regan

swatson88 wrote: »

Hello ive just installed a hunter herald 5. All went well apart from when i fired it up. The 1250º silicon keeps bubbling up and looks nasty. Has anybody else had the same problem thanks simon

I'll just refer you to a previous posting I made about the product, it's a bit late now when you've already applied it and lit the fire but on another forum where the 1250c silicone was reviewed it was recommended to let it dry slowly 3 days for every 10 mm bead thickness. Not sure how long you left it dry before lighting the (small) fire but perhaps this could be part of the problem.

After some further searching on Google, I think I've found a solution for my problem. The product is called envirograf stoveseal. It doesn't seem to be available to purchase over here so I'll probably have to order from the uk. Has anybody used it before? Is it available to buy anywhere in Ireland? It is supposed to be a 1250 degree Celsius silicone product.

http://www.woodburningstovesandflues...-sealant-p-281

http://www.redhotglass.net/Cement_an...ge/RHG-13-HTSE


It's also available for purchase on Ebay- doesn't appear to post to Ireland though. Looks a slightly different product, packaging looks different anyway and has a maximum temperature of 1200 degrees Celsius.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Envirograf...838983c1d#shId

Apparently according to another forum where it is reviewed, it is recommended to let it dry slowly (3 days for every 10mm bead thickness), which is a bit of a drawback with the way the weather is at the minute. I think I'll wait for the weather to get a bit warmer before having another go using the Envirograf silicone product, (if I can get it delivered to Ireland) and just repair with the high temperature fire cement for now.

Thanks again to everybody for all the advice and if you have any more advice to add that would be much appreciated.

Those links above don't appear to be working any longer.

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Envirograf-1200C-Silicone-Fireproof-Sealant-77-01-996-/310187146269

http://www.redhotglass.net/Cement_and_Sealants/Silicone_Sealant/Envirograf_STOVESEAL_Grey_Sealant_-_310ml_Cartridge/RHG-13-HTSE.html

http://www.woodburningstovesandflues.co.uk/flue-accessories-high-temperature-sealants-c-70_89_98/envirograf-stoveseal-grey-sealant-p-281

jimf

Jack_regan wrote: »

Success at last! Just a quick update, thanks to a private message I've found a solution to my problem. I was recommended mixing in some tech 7 with the fire cement as a way of binding the fire cement together and stopping the cracking/ breaking up. Luckily I still had some of the fire cement left over from last time and also the remnants of a tube of tech 7 so it didn't actually cost me anything.

I went for a two thirds fire cement one third tech 7 mix and I applied it at the joint on top of the ceramic rope.I left it to dry for a few days before lighting a small fire. Anyway so far so good. It's only been in a week but it's holding well so far.

Thanks again to the poster who sent the private message and below are some pictures of the stove. Just as a note of caution the tech 7 is only rated up to temperatures of 95 degrees Celsius so this may not be suitable for all scenarios.

My own understanding of it is that the fire cement protects the tech 7 from the heat, but anyway whatever the science behind the process, it works!

Below are some pictures of the stove/ flue joint and the products used.

glad it worked out for you jack

swatson88

Hello jack thanks for the post:) finaly sone1 who knows what they are taking about. By the way robbie you was the one that got funny just because i said it was easy to install which they are. Any body reading this please dont pay rip offs to install your stove its a peice of cake. You can save 100s of pounds

Dtp79

swatson88 wrote: »

Hello jack thanks for the post:) finaly sone1 who knows what they are taking about. By the way robbie you was the one that got funny just because i said it was easy to install which they are. Any body reading this please dont pay rip offs to install your stove its a peice of cake. You can save 100s of pounds

Is that including the piping side of things too?

swatson88

Yes mate

Dtp79

swatson88 wrote: »

Yes mate

Solid fuel pipework is extremely dangerous and shouldn't be attempted by any DIYer. The fact you say it's so easy shows how little you actually know. Tell you what.... Post a load of pics of your own installation and the hotpress pipework and let us all see if you're as good as you think You are

swatson88

A profesional sighed it off and said its spot on and neat so that proves it can be done. I daved 100s of pounds you people just rip people of because you can because people are affraid to do it when its easy

swatson88

Explain why its dangerous. Ive installed grade 904 flexi liner all joints are sealed properly, registerplate is all air tight and everything reachs building regs so explain

swatson88

The only dangeous bit was installing the liner but i had a scafold up any way.

KoolKid

2nd infraction for swatson88.
Abusive and defamatory post deleted.You need to calm down your posting manner.
Next infraction gets a ban.
Is it something in the air here this week??

swatson88

I keep getting told off because they no its true. Iylts not what you want to here is it

KoolKid

You are getting told off because of your manner. Not because something is true or not.
If you wish to discuss this further please PM me. Do not derail threads discussing moderation decisions.

Dtp79

swatson88 wrote: »

The only dangeous bit was installing the liner but i had a scafold up any way.

The danger I was talking about was the plumbing side of it

Dtp79

Dtp79 wrote: »

The danger I was talking about was the plumbing side of it

And what's this " signing off " that was done. Must be a harmless professional if he's willing to put his name to a DIYers work

shane0007

KoolKid wrote: »

Is it something in the air here this week??

There certainly is but I'm still on Florida love so I'm being nice......

swatson88

A well known company. And was confident with the work done thanks.

swatson88

Plumbing part was the easyest

Jack_regan

swatson88 wrote: »

Hello jack thanks for the post:) finaly sone1 who knows what they are taking about.

Just for the record I'm just an amateur, all I was doing was replacing crumbling fire cement, any other advice is just information I am rehashing from other forums or from advice given on this forum.

Dtp79

swatson88 wrote: »

Plumbing part was the easyest

Please oh please do show your work

swatson88

Theres nothing wrong with my work you think im gonna put it on here so you can pick faults . Whats hard about the plumbing? All my plumbing is fine my 45º anges and all my joints are with the female pointing up and the male going down for condensation reasons and all joints a sealed. So wheres the problem and danger

Dtp79

swatson88 wrote: »

Theres nothing wrong with my work you think im gonna put it on here so you can pick faults . Whats hard about the plumbing? All my plumbing is fine my 45º anges and all my joints are with the female pointing up and the male going down for condensation reasons and all joints a sealed. So wheres the problem and danger

I said already I was talking about the plumbing. The plumbing means the pipework that goes from your stove to the hotpress and radiators. That's what I want to see

swatson88

Anybody fitting a stove do the reseach and have a go its so simple you wouldnt belive it and save lots of money. Ive done all the reasearch thats why i dont listen to con men

swatson88

Dont take this personal but your boring me now. And dont want 2 get in to no more trouble so ta ta

Dtp79

swatson88 wrote: »

Dont take this personal but your boring me now. And dont want 2 get in to no more trouble so ta ta

Lets hope your DIY job dosent kill somebody.