nibe fighter 1245 running costs

pgkilro

Well, things seem to be going from bad to worse with my heat pump. Getting alerts all weekend with flashing red light. Text the plumber who said I just need to top up the plastic bottle and make sure it is half full. I've done that on 5 different occasions since Friday and after about 5-6 hours the alert goes off again. Plumber thinks there may be a leak, hence very little pressure. Water temp drops from 53c to 43c and goes up again when I fill the water....which takes about 16 bottles and is in an awkward position.......I hope the ESB bills are worth the hassle!! Plumber coming down sometime this week to take a look....the heat in the house has levelled off at about 20-22c which is much better than 25-26.

MikeKaiserBud

About 1240 operation:

Thanks Soundskin for your post. I now understand the reason for the small pump going all the time. I have night rate electricity so I will work on the temperature set back aspect.

I don't think there's a hot water problem, but I was hoping there would be a sort of timer for cutting off the water heating like there seems to be on the 1245. I'm away from the house for a few weeks at a time during the winter these days and my hope was to keep the house at a temp of about 15 degrees or so through the winter without having the hot water on all the time. Anyway, I can set the water temp down a bit also.

Thanks very much.

MikeKaiserBud

Soundskin,

About the 1240, I left it too late over the weekend to do the compressor total hours check you recommended - I'll do it first the next chance I get.

I found a figure of 293 hours for the total water heating time. The system is in place about three years so that works out as 100 hours per year, and with the house occupied one week in six or so, it comes out as 1.5 hours per day when in use. Sounds not too bad to me, but your opinion would be welcome.

The cost to maintain the house at 13 - 15 degrees (with hot water on) worked out at just under €3 per day over the past three weeks. House area about 275 sq.m. I have a note from last Feb where I calculated €5 per day.

I'll get back with the total compressor hours in a couple of weeks. Thanks for your help.

MKB

liamolaighin

I've noticed my heat pump seems to use loads more hours heating water when the heating is also on. It doesn't make any sence but getting commissioned Friday so hopefully it'll be sorted out then

pgkilro

So its been a while since I posted but we just recieved our ESB bill from 28th nov 13 to 28th Jan 14 anf it came in at €603.00. Now its the first non estimated bill. First two were for 97.00 and 189.00. So over 6 months our electricity bill works out at about €148.00 per month? Anyone know if this is the norm with the ground to water Nibe 1245? or if we are doing something wrong? I was told to leave the 1245 runing all the time as it would be more efficiant than turning it on and off? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

If there is anyone in the Wicklow / Wexford area that has experience with the Nibe 1245 then I would really appreciate any training that could be provided!!

liamolaighin

pgkilro wrote: »

So its been a while since I posted but we just recieved our ESB bill from 28th nov 13 to 28th Jan 14 anf it came in at €603.00. Now its the first non estimated bill. First two were for 97.00 and 189.00. So over 6 months our electricity bill works out at about €148.00 per month? Anyone know if this is the norm with the ground to water Nibe 1245? or if we are doing something wrong? I was told to leave the 1245 runing all the time as it would be more efficiant than turning it on and off? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

If there is anyone in the Wicklow / Wexford area that has experience with the Nibe 1245 then I would really appreciate any training that could be provided!!

Thats probably a little high but depends how much ESB is actually used on heat pump. Playing around with controls, turning down unused rooms a bit, changing schedule etc might lower heat pump associated costs a little but overall its not that bad really is it.

liamolaighin

liamolaighin wrote: »

Thats probably a little high but depends how much ESB is actually used on heat pump. Playing around with controls, turning down unused rooms a bit, changing schedule etc might lower heat pump associated costs a little but overall its not that bad really is it.

By the way my costs per month are approx 130 in November and same in December in the coldest months. Thats for all my esb, heating and hot water

pgkilro

I've turned off the heating in most of the downstair rooms using the thermostats on the wall. I'd like to be able to schedule the heating to come on at say 4pm and 5am. At the moment its on all day. I guess I would like to do the same with the hot water. At the moment we have hot water all day.

I suppose 148.00 per month is not too bad for esb, heating and hot water, but it could be alot better. I'm not even sure what to do now that we move into Spring and Summer. There is supposed to be a thermostat on the out side wall and I would hope that will regulate the heating internally.

Liamolaighin, do you have a Nibe 1245? My heating curve is currently set at -1. I guess I will go down to -2 and then -3 as the days get warmer.

liamolaighin

pgkilro wrote: »

I've turned off the heating in most of the downstair rooms using the thermostats on the wall. I'd like to be able to schedule the heating to come on at say 4pm and 5am. At the moment its on all day. I guess I would like to do the same with the hot water. At the moment we have hot water all day.

I suppose 148.00 per month is not too bad for esb, heating and hot water, but it could be alot better. I'm not even sure what to do now that we move into Spring and Summer. There is supposed to be a thermostat on the out side wall and I would hope that will regulate the heating internally.

Liamolaighin, do you have a Nibe 1245? My heating curve is currently set at -1. I guess I will go down to -2 and then -3 as the days get warmer.

Ive several schedules set up. Its on heating curve 1 and +3 at the since december. Only moved in in november. Most of downstairs is on open circuit and anywhere i have thermostats i have set to aporox 20 degrees. Ill eventually turn down to 0 on curve 1 as days get warmer and eventually disable space heating in may. Happy enough with bills so far and im sure a little tweaking will improve things in time as well as curtains on all windows! Ya its the nibe 1245 with seperate 300l hot water cylinder. 600 m of horizontal ground loop. 3250 square ft 2 storey house. Well insulated and airtightness pretty good. Also have MHRV.

liamolaighin

liamolaighin wrote: »

Ive several schedules set up. Its on heating curve 1 and +3 at the since december. Only moved in in november. Most of downstairs is on open circuit and anywhere i have thermostats i have set to aporox 20 degrees. Ill eventually turn down to 0 on curve 1 as days get warmer and eventually disable space heating in may. Happy enough with bills so far and im sure a little tweaking will improve things in time as well as curtains on all windows! Ya its the nibe 1245 with seperate 300l hot water cylinder. 600 m of horizontal ground loop. 3250 square ft 2 storey house. Well insulated and airtightness pretty good. Also have MHRV.

Ps on the schedules its on -1 during day, 0 between 6 and midnight approx and i think +3 from 2pm to 6pm. Since ive encouraged pump to work more at night im happier its hardly ever on during day. Minor savings but everything counts

pgkilro

So Liamolaighin, for seven days of the week you have the schedule 1 set from 12.00am to 2pm at -1, schedule 2 set from 2pm to 6pm at +3 and schedule 3 set from 6pm to 12.00am at 0?

pgkilro

Also, if anyone has their proposed schedules for the summer that would be great.....house has been very hot last few days with the sun. Average about 25 degrees. Have reduced the temp curve to -3. No schedules currently in place for either the heat or hot water, but electricity bills still not too bad. For two months (Feb & March) our total electricity bill was 340.00. Thats for everything, but I think it could be better if the Nibe wasn't running all day.

One other thing, going on holiday for a week next month, should we turn off the Nibe altogether or just use the holiday scheduler?

badgerhowlin

PgKilro. I turn off the heating altogether for the summer, Mid May was when it was turned off last year.

Like you my house has been low to mid 20s, so last night I truned the heat curve to 1 and -5.

As for schedules. You will save a good bit if you put them on. Especially if you have your water heating on a timer.

Below is my Schedules,

Hot water
Schedule 1
mon 06:00 - 02.00 OFF
Tues 06:00 - 02.00 OFF
Wed 06:00 - 02.00 OFF
Thurs 06:00 - 02.00 OFF
Fri 06:00 - 02.00 OFF
Sat 06:00 - 02.00 OFF
Sun 06:00 - 02.00 OFF

Heating
Schedule 1
mon 02:30 - 06.00 +4
Tues 02:30 - 06.00 +4
Wed 02:30 - 06.00 +4
Thurs 02:30 - 06.00 +4
Fri 02:30 - 06.00 +4
Sat 02:30 - 06.00 +4
Sun 02:30 - 06.00 +4

Schedule 2
mon 06:00 - 21.00 -3
Tues 06:00 - 21.00 -3
Wed 06:00 - 21.00 -3
Thurs 06:00 - 21.00 -3
Fri 06:00 - 21.00 -3
Sat 06:00 - 21.00 -3
Sun 06:00 - 21.00 -3

Schedule 3
mon 21:15- 02.00 +2
Tues 21:15- 02.00 +2
Wed 21:15- 02.00 +2
Thurs 21:15- 02.00 +2
Fri 21:15- 02.00 +2
Sat 21:15- 02.00 +2
Sun 21:15- 02.00 +2

As for your holiday next month. If its late May I would turn off your heating altogether if i was you. And as for hot water if you have the water heating at night I would schedual it to be off untill the night before you come back.
I have never used the Holiday scheduler.

pgkilro

Thanks Badger...three quick questions:
1) How do you turn your heat curve to 1 and -5? I only have the option to change one number? Hence I changed to -3.
2) So you turn off the water heating from 6am to 2am. Do you not need to add a schedule 2 to come on again at 2.15am to 5.45am? Also, is there enough hot water for night time showers?
3) Does the schedule override the actual heat curve settings e.g. I've set mine to -3 now, but if I follow your schedule this will be overridden by the schedule?

badgerhowlin

pgkilro wrote: »

Thanks Badger...three quick questions:
1) How do you turn your heat curve to 1 and -5? I only have the option to change one number? Hence I changed to -3.
2) So you turn off the water heating from 6am to 2am. Do you not need to add a schedule 2 to come on again at 2.15am to 5.45am? Also, is there enough hot water for night time showers?
3) Does the schedule override the actual heat curve settings e.g. I've set mine to -3 now, but if I follow your schedule this will be overridden by the schedule?

Sorry havent be on page for a while.

Ill try and answer your questions tonight wheni get home

badgerhowlin

Just finished my 2nd years running.

Total cost of ESB for house was (€1039.97) down from last years bill(€1080.67)

Total units used on hit pump was(2164) down from last year(2758)

Total cost of running HP last year was €369.66. Detailed reading for this can be found on https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Amy6xlLdiDpQdENDa0ZTdkM3S3hfc3BHeURYQ1ZWZkE&pli=1#gid=2

SO
(this is all guess work from here on)
If I divide units used last year 2758 by total spent on heating last year €369.66. I get average cost per unit .13323.
multiply average cost per unit by total units used this year 2164. I get €290.05

KCross

pgkilro wrote: »

Also, if anyone has their proposed schedules for the summer that would be great.....house has been very hot last few days with the sun. Average about 25 degrees. Have reduced the temp curve to -3. No schedules currently in place for either the heat or hot water, but electricity bills still not too bad. For two months (Feb & March) our total electricity bill was 340.00. Thats for everything, but I think it could be better if the Nibe wasn't running all day.

One other thing, going on holiday for a week next month, should we turn off the Nibe altogether or just use the holiday scheduler?

You should not need to mess with the schedules between winter/summer. Once you get settings that work for winter the summer is largely irrelevant because the HP will automatically stop space heating when the average outside temperature goes above a certain value. Changing the curve or heat schedules during the summer will have little effect because it will be off anyway except for hot water.

For hot water, unless you use alot of it, I'd recommend a schedule that has ALL the hot water heating done at around 6am-8am. We have a house of 5 and we rarely use all the water so by limiting it to night saver electricity you get maximum savings on the water heating.


To check the "summer cut off" settings look here...

Under HeatPump-->advanced-->auto mode settings
There are 3 settings in there....
stop heating, stop additional heat, filter time

My settings for those 3 are
15,5,24

If you want it to turn itself off sooner, change the 15 to a lower temperature.

You can check the average outdoor temperature recorded by your Nibe under
info-->service info-->avg. outdoor temperature



In relation to holidays, I would use the holiday scheduler. You set the start and end date and it will mean that when you come back you will have hot water as you will set the end date to the day before you come back. If you turn it off completely you wont have any hot water when you come back.

Rushy Fields

Not sure is this correct thread but i have a problem with my underfloor system heated by a nibe fighter 1145 with 300ltr cylinder in hotpress. digital thermostats upstairs in each bedroom (4) One of the bedrooms is cold.... not as warm as other rooms all 4 rooms set at 22 degrees on the stats. Actuators wiring have been checked and they seem to work. When i take off all actuators from manifold the cold room gets warm but another room adjacent to this room gets too warm 25-26degrees. Anyone ave words of wisdom? Heat pump set at heating curve 4. Had guy out with thermal imaging camera to check for leaks and any heat loss but none found.

KCross

nealger wrote: »

Not sure is this correct thread but i have a problem with my underfloor system heated by a nibe fighter 1145 with 300ltr cylinder in hotpress. digital thermostats upstairs in each bedroom (4) One of the bedrooms is cold.... not as warm as other rooms all 4 rooms set at 22 degrees on the stats. Actuators wiring have been checked and they seem to work. When i take off all actuators from manifold the cold room gets warm but another room adjacent to this room gets too warm 25-26degrees. Anyone ave words of wisdom? Heat pump set at heating curve 4. Had guy out with thermal imaging camera to check for leaks and any heat loss but none found.

Maybe actuators are on the wrong feeds and when you take all actuators off all rooms are getting their full flow and the room that is then getting too warm has simply got too high a flow rate. When the actuators are on, that hot room is still getting the full flow but the actuator for that room is stopping its flow so that it doesnt get to 25C.

You said you checked actuator wiring. Does that mean you just checked that the stat was driving the actuator or did you also check that you have the actuator on the right feed of the manifold?

I doubt the heat curve or HP settings matter here.

soundskin

I Agree with KCross, make sure the right correct stat is connected to it's actuator and most importantly that actuator is on the right valve for that stat. So Master stat in onto actuator that feeds master bedroom. Sounds simple but is wrong so many times.

Step by step method is turn down all stats but one, after a day then only that room should be warm.

If the room heated up but not was warm as others when it was removed then up the flow rate to that room, flow rates are there to match heat loss. Balancing flow rates will result in even temps. I'd imagine this is your issue if you rule out the wiring and actuator locations.

If your rooms are getting to 24-25 degrees then you may have to look at your heat pump, thats a very high temp (only to be limiting by the stats). You might be running your heat pump too high only to have the stats stopping overheating. That is bad.

Do you have stats on the GF? what i is the temp like there?

Rushy Fields

soundskin wrote: »

I Agree with KCross, make sure the right correct stat is connected to it's actuator and most importantly that actuator is on the right valve for that stat. So Master stat in onto actuator that feeds master bedroom. Sounds simple but is wrong so many times.

Step by step method is turn down all stats but one, after a day then only that room should be warm.


If the room heated up but not was warm as others when it was removed then up the flow rate to that room, flow rates are there to match heat loss. Balancing flow rates will result in even temps. I'd imagine this is your issue if you rule out the wiring and actuator locations.

If your rooms are getting to 24-25 degrees then you may have to look at your heat pump, thats a very high temp (only to be limiting by the stats). You might be running your heat pump too high only to have the stats stopping overheating. That is bad.

Do you have stats on the GF? what i is the temp like there?

Have one stat and two actuators in one room downstairs. The remaining rooms have no stats. I know temps are too warm. How do i turn down or up flow rates? This is all new to me, should i get someone in to have a look? How do i check heat pump? Temp on heatpump set at 23. MY OH is a cold creature. Anything less than 22 is cold!!! Took actuators traced wires from actuators to stats then turned up room wiyh stat and actuator on valve to see did it move and it did. The cold room went up but room didnt get warm..... confused😩

KCross

nealger wrote: »

Have one stat and two actuators in one room downstairs. The remaining rooms have no stats. I know temps are too warm. How do i turn down or up flow rates? This is all new to me, should i get someone in to have a look? How do i check heat pump? Temp on heatpump set at 23. MY OH is a cold creature. Anything less than 22 is cold!!! Took actuators traced wires from actuators to stats then turned up room wiyh stat and actuator on valve to see did it move and it did. The cold room went up but room didnt get warm..... confused😩

On the manifold where you connect the actuator, there should be a flow rate adjustment for each feed. Turn it one way and it will increase the flow and vice versa. More flow, more heat. You should turn it up a little at a time and see how it reacts after 24hrs.

So, when the stat was turned up and the room got warmer, but not warm enough, it probably means that the flow rate is too low. Increasing the flow rate to that feed will pump more heat into that room.

Maybe if you posted a picture of the manifold it would help to explain.

To turn the HP down you need to reduce the heat curve in the HP settings. Thats in the heat pump menu, advanced, heating curve..... what is that set to in your system?

Since it is all new to you I think you would benefit from someone coming onsite and giving you some training on it as it is likely you will need to tweak it some more in the months ahead to get it right. Having a full understanding of what you are doing is vital here.

Jackofaltrades

Hi,
I have a NIBE 1140 installed in 2007 and I cant say that I am all that happy with it.
I have been playing about with the setting but I am still averaging €2p/d normal up to €8p/d freezing. (3000sqft 2 floors UFH + RADS 2nd flr).
I have tried setting back the temp during the daytime and heating extra HW at night (on nightsaver) but no improvement on my bills.

Would anybody have some recommended settings for the 1140 please, I think my heat pump should be better than this from reading this post.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jack.

Gunslinger99

Hi Jack, sounds to me like you're doing ok. You're heating a 3000 sq foot house for approx € 1400 a year does that sound right ? How many tanks of oil would a house that size go through in a year ? 3 or 4 would be my guess. If you want some help with settings drop an email to Unipipe and they'll help you out ( after xmas id say they're very busy this time of year ). Good luck

Jackofaltrades

Hi Gunslinger,
Just from looking at badgerhowlins costs of €370 a year I thought maybe I should be doing a bit better!

hexosan

Jackofaltrades wrote: »

Hi Gunslinger,
Just from looking at badgerhowlins costs of €370 a year I thought maybe I should be doing a bit better!

How well insulated and how airtight is your house.

Have you 4" vents in the walls.

Jackofaltrades

Hi,
Yeah, 4" vents and 2 chimneys, need to do something about them!

hexosan

Jackofaltrades wrote: »

Hi,
Yeah, 4" vents and 2 chimneys, need to do something about them!

You can't just go blocking them up but I'd say it's the reason your bills are higher.

villa fan

Hello all,
I've 1245 in for 4 years,I have it off for the summer, switched to manual and heating hot water only. I have a buffer tank and didn't want to be heating this at night if it not going to be used. I'm happy with the system so far, it works well during winter, heats up a reserve of heat for underfloor on night rate that feeds in to floor when necessary during the day.the problem I have now is that hp high pressure alarm 50 has been coming on this week. I reset it a few times but the red light started to come on more often so contacted installer Thursday but he didn't come out yet. When left with red light on the buffer tank has started to heatup? I put it standby mode but still the buffer has heated up today. Why is this happening? I don't want to cut the Power switch as I'd be afraid this could cause further damage with refrigerant or would it be okay to do so? Any help would be appreciated. I put the heat pump back on their now and set it to auto, see will it make any difference. A bit concerned that one of the pressure gauges is reading lower than usual also but not sure. Have found this forum beneficial in the past so thanks to all who post here.

Jackofaltrades

Hi Villa Fan
I have previously had this alarm also - I think it happens when you build up to much heat/pressure in the system and dont release it to the floor i.e using temp set back.
Not sure how to fix it bar balancing your heat generation with your usage.

hatchman

What have temp have u set for "stop heating" in 4.9.2 auto mode setting ? If this is low enough the heatpump won't try to heat floor/buffer tank. I've mine set at 12 and filtering time 24 hrs. Set it this low to make sure pump didn't heat floor during our so called summer will up it a bit when days and nights get a bit colder.

If u don't need it for domestic hot water power it down will do know harm AFAIK and wait for engineer.

Jackofaltrades

Just to add, I have an 1140 and when I just want to the pump to heat the hot water I set the pump to summer mode and rarely/never get the HP alarm, when I do I just power off/on the heat pump.

Rushy Fields

Hi. Can anyone recommend someone to service my Nibe F1145 Geothermal heatpump and 300l cylinder. General overall service. PM me. Located near Galway Roscommon border.....

villa fan

Hi all,
Just wondering how lads are finding this system at present, how are you scheduling it now, have it in since 2012, found last year cost went up but have 3 kids and need for more heat probably the reason but would like to see if anyone has tweaked settings or scheduling in any way. Do ye change electricity supplier often or find one better than another? Had a few problems with stats failing, had to replace 6. Is this common? Servicing every 2 years? A simple question, where are filters situated to clean them, 2 I think isn’t it?
Air to water heat pumps seem to be very popular at present.
Thanks for any responses

KCross

villa fan wrote: »

Hi all,
Just wondering how lads are finding this system at present, how are you scheduling it now, have it in since 2012, found last year cost went up but have 3 kids and need for more heat probably the reason but would like to see if anyone has tweaked settings or scheduling in any way.

If your running costs have gone up and you havent changed anything, it might be worth getting a service and get stats and filters checked.

villa fan wrote: »

Do ye change electricity supplier often...?

Yes, and you should do that regardless of having a HP or not. Its the only way to get the best electricity deals.

The only difference between one provider and the other is customer service and if you do your own meter readings you will have no need for their customer service.... thats my experience anyway.

I flip flop between airtricity and Energia as they seem to offer the best deals.

Currently paying 16.41/8.12 inc vat for day/night.

villa fan wrote: »

Had a few problems with stats failing, had to replace 6. Is this common?

I havent had any fail in 7 years. I have digital Salus stats.

villa fan wrote: »

Servicing every 2 years? A simple question, where are filters situated to clean them, 2 I think isn’t it?

You'd need to post a pic of your plumbing to have that pointed out.

If you are getting it serviced every 2 years not much need for you to mess with the filters as that will have been done anyway.

You'd need to be careful you dont open the wrong nut and spill the contents of the system on your floor and have to repressurise it etc. Maybe get a service done and get the service guy to show you how to clean the filters without f*cking it up.

MikeKaiserBud

Just a comment on using the thermostats. I have them in all rooms and hallway and used to set them carefully. Upshot was that the system was turning off and on alot - the compressor was being switched far too often as each stat 'called' it to come on. A couple of years ago I had a service visit and the guy recommended to ignore the stats completely and to set the conditions in the control unit itself. We like the temperature about 19 degrees and he used his gut instinct for choosing the heating curve etc. He disconnected the leads in the boxed off valves system. I can't be any more specific as I'm not an expert on the controller. The compressor switches less frequently (supposed to extend the life). I used to turn it all off over the summer months too but again he advised leaving it running all year as only the low power circulation pump is in use when the system is not heating. I found that there was hardly any change in the costs when these changes were made. Best of luck

Tmurf

Hey Villa,
I change my supplier, I find the best supplier is the one with the best deal, you can knock a good few quid a month off the bill by changing.
I have disconnected my stats as they had a manual dial and I found some rooms would be a bit colder as there was a 3 to 4 deg difference in the dial between switching.
I have the heat curve at 3 but drop it to 2 sometimes.
I have attached the heating schedules.
I have a meter on the pump so I can work out the yearly price.
Last 2 years coming in under €700
20190114_173402.jpg

20190114_173412.jpg

20190114_173424.jpg

Rushy Fields

Hi,
Does anyone have a contact for servicing a NIBE F1145 Geothermal Heat Pump? Location is Galway Roscommon Border Area. So anyone in counties Roscommon Galway Mayo Westmeath Longford or Offaly would be ideal.

badgerhowlin

Rushy Fields wrote: »

Hi,
Does anyone have a contact for servicing a NIBE F1145 Geothermal Heat Pump? Location is Galway Roscommon Border Area. So anyone in counties Roscommon Galway Mayo Westmeath Longford or Offaly would be ideal.

Hope you find one. I cant find anyone to look at mine in wexford.

MartinHeather

There's a chap called Alex Byrne who services NIBE systems in the north Connaught and Donegal areas (086 2625002) - maybe he'll have some info if he doesn' t go as far as Roscommon/Galway. If you haven't done so already you could try the NIBE suppliers Unipipe in Bray (01-2864888) as they may have a list of service companies. Best of luck

tallaghtjoe

I came across this thread and is very interesting. I have VVM320 heat pump unit. it is currently set at +4. I was advised by the installer to leave it running all the time, rather than have a timer on it. Looking back at the posts here, looks like most have a schedule set up. Is this more economical?

Its a new house (2080sqft) in it since June last year. I had found the house cool at night esp and I now have it moved up to +4, since Christmas. I havent notice a huge difference in the heat in the house, temperature remains between 19 - 20, which I find a little cool. I would prefer the living room at maybe 22, but the thermostat never seems to reach that level and rooms are cool. The bedrooms I have set at 20.

My real problem is the cost of the running of it. Again looking back on the post, my costs alot more that what others seem to be paying. for example Dec - Jan 3591 units were used, my elec bill works out at €755. Oct - Nov 1682 units were used, elec bill was 368. The level was at +2 and +3 during Sep/Nov. Does this seem high for the size of the house? Would I be better setting a schedule? Is there any other way to save some of the costs?

Thanks in advance

deerpark

You sounds a bit like me with vm320, 12kw outdoor unit, MVHR and a 240Msq house thats 18 months old.
I am having the same struggle.
I am putting it down to a combo of some rooms could be better in terms of ease of heating (lots of glass or high ceiling).
I am also putting it down to the hall thermostat being Nibe and seperate from all other stats (neo heatmiser). The nibe system wants an open circuit heating 24x7 and thats in the hall. The hall must be heated to a temp before the other key rooms are e.g. living room catch up. The logic of it is lost on me and is borne by decisions made by the plumber who installed it.

If we want living room at 23, we have to heat the hall to 23.
On this basis the cost of the system to run is high because we are heating parts of the house to a huge level unnecessarily.

I need to have a conversation with our plumber. If possible I would like the open circuit to be the living room, where we like it warm (we have no fireplace or chimney of any type). Then the hall could be adjusted without worrying about the temperature of other rooms.

DP

tallaghtjoe

deerpark wrote: »

You sounds a bit like me with vm320, 12kw outdoor unit, MVHR and a 240Msq house thats 18 months old.
I am having the same struggle.
I am putting it down to a combo of some rooms could be better in terms of ease of heating (lots of glass or high ceiling).
I am also putting it down to the hall thermostat being Nibe and seperate from all other stats (neo heatmiser). The nibe system wants an open circuit heating 24x7 and thats in the hall. The hall must be heated to a temp before the other key rooms are e.g. living room catch up. The logic of it is lost on me and is borne by decisions made by the plumber who installed it.

If we want living room at 23, we have to heat the hall to 23.
On this basis the cost of the system to run is high because we are heating parts of the house to a huge level unnecessarily.

I need to have a conversation with our plumber. If possible I would like the open circuit to be the living room, where we like it warm (we have no fireplace or chimney of any type). Then the hall could be adjusted without worrying about the temperature of other rooms.

DP

That makes sense about the Nibe thermostat in the hallway and I hadnt thought of it like that. I was going to ring the plumber today, but as I dont really know what Im talking about, I thought Id try here first for advise. I will need to contact him, but let me know how you get on with plumber.

JoeA3

deerpark wrote: »

You sounds a bit like me with vm320, 12kw outdoor unit, MVHR and a 240Msq house thats 18 months old.
I am having the same struggle.
I am putting it down to a combo of some rooms could be better in terms of ease of heating (lots of glass or high ceiling).
I am also putting it down to the hall thermostat being Nibe and seperate from all other stats (neo heatmiser). The nibe system wants an open circuit heating 24x7 and thats in the hall. The hall must be heated to a temp before the other key rooms are e.g. living room catch up. The logic of it is lost on me and is borne by decisions made by the plumber who installed it.

If we want living room at 23, we have to heat the hall to 23.
On this basis the cost of the system to run is high because we are heating parts of the house to a huge level unnecessarily.

I need to have a conversation with our plumber. If possible I would like the open circuit to be the living room, where we like it warm (we have no fireplace or chimney of any type). Then the hall could be adjusted without worrying about the temperature of other rooms.

DP

I also have the same Nibe indoor unit, though in my case it’s coupled with a 6kW outdoor unit (F-2040-6) and also a Nibe MHRV.

House is a bit smaller at about 205 sq/m but we do have some very high ceilings!

Overall, very happy with how it’s performing. After a bit of experimenting I have the curve set to 3 with an offset of +1. I meddled with the scheduling a bit a while back but gave up on that and now I just leave it running 24-7. The only thing I schedule is the MHRV. I set it to the minimum setting for a few hours in the evening as the vent above my head in the living room was annoying me.

Anyway, at those settings, I have the house at a constant 21.5-22 degrees throughout. Very comfortable, t-shirt climate basically, even in the atrocious weather we’ve had in the last while.

My plumber also set it up predominantly as an “open loop”. My entire kitchen/dining, hallway and bathrooms are on this open loop. The Nibe stat is in the kitchen/dining. Each bedroom and the living room have their own stats but tbh I’m not sure what they do beyond cut off on he flow to those rooms at the set temp. Essentially the open loop drives everything and if that loop is at 22 degrees well there is no point in setting the living room to 24 degrees because that heat is not available.

Energy consumption is high but not off the scale. Nothing I didn’t expect. Using about 40 kWh per day in the last week or so of the really horrible spell. I’d expect that to settle way back when weather is milder.

Have to say, the MHRV system is a fantastic job. It’s one of those things that you don’t really know what it does until it’s turned off. I had to switch mine off last week as local farmers were spreading slurry. Smell was horrific. Turned it off for 24 hours and you could definitely feel that the house was stuffier and there was condensation on the windows that I’d never seen before. If we put clothes out to dry on a Clothes horse they are dry within a couple of hours. And no moisture in the utility from it. Great job.

In terms of energy costs. Shop around! I switched last month from Electric Ireland to Energia and the savings (look at the unit price per kWh and ignore all the other gimmicks) is very significant.

Edit: just remembered another setting I changed on the Nibe. Disable “additional heating”. That’s basically the immersion heater and it will kick in when temps are like they’ve been the last few weeks. That has a serious appetite for electricity.

hurikane

Have an air source heat pump in the house, it keeps all rooms at 21 degrees. What I miss is, being able to blast the heat. Turn it on and bang, piping hot rads.

JoeA3

hurikane wrote: »

Have an air source heat pump in the house, it keeps all rooms at 21 degrees. What I miss is, being able to blast the heat. Turn it on and bang, piping hot rads.

Yes it’s a very different mindset. You just have to get used to finding a comfortable all-Round temp and stick with it. I know with my system that if I make any adjustments, it would take till Monday afternoon before I’d notice the effect!