Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Programmable Thermostat Wiring...

Options
  • 09-05-2012 7:42am
    #1
    WetDaddy
    Registered Users Posts: 1,399 ✭✭✭


    I've currently got an Immermat Flash mechanical time clock. Apart from it being the bane of my life, the switch is now dodgy so it definitely needs to be shot into space. I'd love to get a Heatmiser PRT-TS (http://www.heatmiser.co.uk/web/index.php/wifi-thermostats) but it mentions something about having either 3 or 4 wires (which affects which model you choose).

    The wiring for the current programmable timer is like this: https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/33611/53202.doc

    It looks like my Immermat has the 2 x 2 setup as detailed above (mains in, mains out, appliance in, applicance out). Does this count as 4 wires? Or only 2? I don't believe I've a thermostat in the house other than on the boilers (and rads). Any experienced folks able to advise?

    Thanks in advance!


Comments

  • Options
    #2
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    3-core in and 3-core out that you have i would call a 4-wire stat

    that's Lin,Lout,N,E


  • Options
    #3
    WetDaddy
    Registered Users Posts: 1,399 ✭✭✭WetDaddy


    Thanks for the reply. I'm a little confused with one or two things:

    1. What's a "3-core" as you refer to it?
    2. I see you say L-in, L-out, N & E; however, diagram I linked too looked more like "L-in, L-out, N-in, N-out"... How do they match up?

    Thanks again!


  • Options
    #4
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    it will swop no problem-they refer to the 230v model as '3-wires excluding earth'

    i call it 4-wire usually myself anyhow as i'd usually be wiring in flex back to a central point-dunno if that's right or not:confused:


    they have comfort setting and some have frost protection-so the location needs to be right for it

    not sure if it's ideal to be switching an oil boiler and pump direct with one of these expensive wi-fi timers ,i'd fuse it at 3amp anyhow

    and you still need proper boiler isolation

    maybe best get an electrician


  • Options
    #5
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    There just funky switches but still a switch, the 3 wire is if you just want to use one switch to control your heating and hot water and the 4 wire is if you want to use two switches controling your hot water separately which would suit a S plan wiring set up.


  • Options
    #6
    WetDaddy
    Registered Users Posts: 1,399 ✭✭✭WetDaddy


    Thanks for the replies, guys. I think, after reading your input, a qualified electrician is probably the smartest way for me to go...

    The problem is, I'd like to evaluate and purchase the replacement myself, then have him (or her!) do the actual install. I don't want to pay someone to come in, look at the wiring and advise me on what I can buy then pay them *again* to come back and install it once I have the replacement.

    Is there any surefire way of me knowing what replacement stats / programmable timers will work with my setup?


  • Advertisement
Advertisement