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New roof + Insulation approx .cost (photos included)

  • 15-05-2012 6:26pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 214 ✭✭


    Hi DIY experts & builders.

    I know this is subjective and like asking how long is a piece of string, but I am trying to price up the potential cost of replacing a roof with slate and fitting roof insulation to a dormer bungalow.

    Bungalow is around 160sqm.

    The surveyor informs me that the roof will have to come off for the insulation to be fitted. Looking at the rear of the roof it looks like it is getting past it anyhow. I did wonder about spray insulation through circular holes cut from the inside?

    I have attached the picture of the roof below. Thanks for any help you may be able to give.

    Photo0049.jpg

    Photo0041.jpg


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Don't forget an air-tightness membrane


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    You will need vent cards on the inside to do spray foam (Bio-Foam 800 open cell).

    Only way to spray foam is to take down ceilings and start from scratch.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 214 ✭✭khards


    Thanks for the information on spray insulation. From the report I have received they say in order to comply with current building regs that the house will have to be fitted out with insulation between the rafters.

    Lots to think about with this project...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,516 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    its not a big deal , its actually the normal way they do it in germany, im just back from a course in germany which went through passive housing and retrofiting to this standard.
    Now i know your not trying to achieve passive standard but they do have great knowledge in insulating roofs.

    Whats also considered there is the phase change, basically if its a really sunny day how long before that heat makes it through the insulation and turn the attic room into a furnace :D
    Wood fibre based insulations are much better at this than glass fibre etc, and can make a big difference to the comfort factor.

    If you want i can pm you with the address of a brochure which gives an overview of the advantages of wood fibre based insulations.

    As previously metioned dont forget the wind tightness layer on the outside which should be taped , this membrane should be highly diffusible just ensure the right one is used.

    Im personally not a fan of the biofoam anymore but i do understand its merits.


  • Registered Users Posts: 214 ✭✭khards


    For anyone else interested in reading about air tightness layers (I had never heard of it before) there is a page of information here


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,516 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    just a word of warning though , if your going to try and go airtight do it right, if done half arsed it can lead to lots of moisture getting trapped in behind the gaps which will lead to mould and possible rot in timber.

    If done right its helps alot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,516 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    khards wrote: »
    For anyone else interested in reading about air tightness layers (I had never heard of it before) there is a page of information here
    Also concerning the roof and other areas, there can be an outer windtightness layer which is easily diffusible and an inside air tightness layer which is still diffusible but not as easily. the SD values are on the membranes for this purpose.


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