Insulated house but still losing heat

censuspro

I mied into a second hand house two years ago, I refurbished and warm boarded the inside of the house on the external walls and gable end. I also moved the radiators underneath the windows however the house only holds the heat for approx one hour after the heating is off. The house is circa 50 years old, 4 bed semi detached.

Any ideas on how I can reduce heat loss or any suggestions on how the house is losing heat so fast? There are no noticeable drafts or holes.

The Tyre Dude

How well insulated is the attic? Walls usually account for around 33% of heat loss, the roof another 25%. On a house that old heat loss through the floor could be substantial.

If you really want to get to the bottom of it there is always thermal imaging.

http://www.eco-smart.ie/thermal_imaging

Not affiliated.

Dotsie~tmp

Attic done? Windows? Any large drafts?

wayoutwest

What type of walls have you got?
How thick are your 'warm boards'?
How thick is insulation in roof?
What type of insulation is in the ground floors?
Are your windows double glazed

BryanF

this is my problem with dry-lining. it only takes care of the wall area's you can see, not all the junctions etc & it make achieving air-tightness more difficult..
when were the windows changed last?
how do feel about External wall insulation?
maybe we should start with what your budget is to solve this?

as suggested above you may wish to start with a thermal imaging camera, but I would speculate that part of the problem will be thermal bridges at areas like the floor, window, first floor, eaves junctions etc
and air-tightness at windows, penetrations, sockets, ceilings etc
and a lack of insulated pipework etc + probably how ventilation is delivered
is the ground floor suspended?

deandean

Probably drafts.

Open fireplaces?

wayoutwest

The Tyre Dude - do you happen to know how much a thermal imaging survey would cost, by any chance?

censuspro

BryanF wrote: »

this is my problem with dry-lining. it only takes care of the wall area's you can see, not all the junctions etc & it make achieving air-tightness more difficult..
when were the windows changed last?
how do feel about External wall insulation?
maybe we should start with what your budget is to solve this?

as suggested above you may wish to start with a thermal imaging camera, but I would speculate that part of the problem will be thermal bridges at areas like the floor, window, first floor, eaves junctions etc
and air-tightness at windows, penetrations, sockets, ceilings etc
and a lack of insulated pipework etc + probably how ventilation is delivered
is the ground floor suspended?

Ground floor is suspended with plumbing underneath. The upstairs of the house is holds the heat much better than downstairs, attic is also insulated.

I think you're right about the thermal bridges. Any suggestions on how to resolve?

BryanF

Start with insulating and air-tightness membrane of sus floor. You haven't stated your budget. As I outlined above, dry lining is a half assed solution that needs attention to detail if it's going to work at all. This is the DIY section so I'd suggest you look around the threads for the usual draught proof and insulation comments. its hard for most people to part with the necessary cash to achieve the heat retention you might be expectin or that's available from a new house. You might find that with new window decent windows, decent external wall insulation and an air-tightness test with follow-up air-t measures the answer, but do consider your ventilation strategy early on. Its all about how and who carrys out this work, there is often little coordination or detailed drawings prepared. Also note that the term thermal bridges is real just a fancy way of saying attention to detail / overlap of insulation at junction of wins, floors, ceiling, penetrations etc. check out the passive house retrofit standard for some ideas . Best of luck