Screw Thread on Back Box Broken

danjo-xx

What are my options here lads. Its a plastic box on an solid wall.

I don't suppose that little plastic yoke with the scew thread can be replaced or can it!!

If I have to replace the box I don't see any thing holding it in place except the plaster all around it.

If fitting a new one should I just drill 2 screw holes in the back of box and into wall, is that the way to go.

thanks.

DublinDilbert

I would just replace the box. The old one is probably so brittle it will literally fall out with the help of a big screw driver and hammer.

I would replace with a metal one, which will be slightly smaller.

Yes one or two screws into the brick/block behind should do the job...

2011

DublinDilbert wrote: »

I would just replace the box. The old one is probably so brittle it will literally fall out with the help of a big screw driver and hammer.

I would replace with a metal one, which will be slightly smaller.

Yes one or two screws into the brick/block behind should do the job...

+1
Although I think you will find that the metal one is a bit deeper. I would also replace the socket with a new one (about €2 - 3) while you are at it.

Don't forget to earth the metal box!

paddy147

Turn off power to socket/switch.Unscrew cables and plate

Then carefully tap out the old box with a hammer and a small chisel or flat head screwdriver.

Then install a single gang metal or plastic back box (about 1 euro from a leccy wholesalers).

Use 2 x 5mm red rawl plugs and screws to drill/screw the back box onto the wall.

Re-attach wire to socket/face plate and screw socket/faceplate onto new back box.

Turn back on the power.


Then make a cuppa tea,stand back and admire your handy work.

Job done.:)

danjo-xx

thanks lads.... another job to add to my list....at least it's not a biggie:D

meercat

I would drill through the existing screw holes with 5.5 masonry bit
Put in red rawl plugs
Then new 3.5 wood screws

Replace the socket while your at it(turn power off)

Lot easier than replacing box and possible patching

Bruthal

Yea patching will possibly be needed replacing that with another single box, although that`s simple enough anyway.

I often replaced with a double in situations like that. Cleanly cut out each side of the single box position with a 5.5 sds and hand chisel, so the center of the twin would be where the center of the single was, remove old box, and fit new twin steel box snugly into the neatly cut opening.

It might be just me, but i much prefer steel boxes when walls are chased.

I found an old wood chisel great for splitting the back of them old plastic boxes to get them out.

2011

robbie7730 wrote: »

I often replaced with a double in situations like that.

Yes, assuming that this will not push the no of points over the limit for that circuit.

It might be just me, but i much prefer steel boxes when walls are chased.

+1

You could use one of these.

Bruthal

2011 wrote: »

Yes, assuming that this will not push the no of points over the limit for that circuit.


+1

You could use one of these.

So on a 10 socket circuit, you can have 5 doubles, or 10 singles? Thats a new one to me, no wonder i dont do much domestic:D

paddymick

robbie7730 wrote: »

So on a 10 socket circuit, you can have 5 doubles, or 10 singles? Thats a new one to me, no wonder i dont do much domestic:D

It doesnt matter if its a single or double they are both counted as a point in the same way.

So its recommended 10 sockets per radial circuit single or double..
or as many as you like on a ring circuit within an area of 100m sq.

I`d also change it to a double if you are going to the trouble of changing the box anyway and use a metal box they are much better than those plastic ones.

Bruthal

paddymick wrote: »

It doesnt matter if its a single or double they are both counted as a point in the same way.

I realise that, i was just trolling:D

danjo-xx

meercat wrote: »

I would drill through the existing screw holes with 5.5 masonry bit
Put in red rawl plugs
Then new 3.5 wood screws

Replace the socket while your at it(turn power off)

Lot easier than replacing box and possible patching

Sorry I don't get this, the RHS screw receiver is broken off and in my hand at the moment.

meercat

danjo-xx wrote: »

Sorry I don't get this, the RHS screw receiver is broken off and in my hand at the moment.

drill through the box(into the wall)where the lug broke off
put a rawl plug into the wall
use a wood screw to tighten socket

Bruthal

danjo-xx wrote: »

Sorry I don't get this, the RHS screw receiver is broken off and in my hand at the moment.

What meercat meant was, you drill a 5.5 hole in the wall through the back of the box, exactly in line with where the screw receiver was, put a red rawl plug into the drilled hole, and use a 3.5 inch wood screw through the socket plate fixing hole, and the long woodcrew will reach the rawl plug to screw the socket plate into position. And use the other existing screw for the other side of the socket.

danjo-xx

meercat wrote: »

drill through the box(into the wall)where the lug broke off
put a rawl plug into the wall
use a wood screw to tighten socket

aw gotta ya now and an excellent quick fix solution....way to go.

thanks a mill.

embracingLife

how many sparks does it take it change a back box?!

Bruthal

Go on, tell us, I know you want to:pac:

M cebee

drill the back and a 3.5pozi is the handiest imo

A metal box you can drill and tap the back of the box and fit the regular3.5 screw
-if a pozi doesn't suit

glynf

OP,

You could use a 1 Gang 1 panel frame (MK K2200) if you can get decent grounds around the existing back box?

Much less hassle than replacing & patching.

Bruthal

glynf wrote: »

OP,

You could use a 1 Gang 1 panel frame (MK K2200) if you can get decent grounds around the existing back box?

Much less hassle than replacing & patching.

Not a bad idea that one. Once the frame is earthed properly.

glynf

robbie7730 wrote: »

glynf wrote: »

OP,

You could use a 1 Gang 1 panel frame (MK K2200) if you can get decent grounds around the existing back box?

Much less hassle than replacing & patching.

Not a bad idea that one. Once the frame is earthed properly.

They're a gift. Especially if you encounter a few crappy cheap boxes with dodgy lugs in a row, and as long as you can get decent grounds.

glynf

Gah double post.

meercat

glynf wrote: »

OP,

You could use a 1 Gang 1 panel frame (MK K2200) if you can get decent grounds around the existing back box?

Much less hassle than replacing & patching.

i like

beanie10

Or if you dont like the look of a wood screw holding your socket up you could use a 75mm extension screw in the red rawl plug, they hold really well.

Bruthal

beanie10 wrote: »

Or if you dont like the look of a wood screw holding your socket up you could use a 75mm extension screw in the red rawl plug, they hold really well.

Yes they do work alright. They just take a bit more amount of turns to get them in, and at first feel like they are not screwing in very positively, but they work well.

meercat

robbie7730 wrote: »

Yes they do work alright. They just take a bit more amount of turns to get them in, and at first feel like they are not screwing in very positively, but they work well.

if you cut the screw at an angle,it helps to start the thread

Bruthal

meercat wrote: »

if you cut the screw at an angle,it helps to start the thread

Yea or file to a good chamfer, almost to a point, thats what I did on the rare occasion I used this method.

Or if i had a similar box I would take the screw receiver lug from another one and fit into the place of the broken one. Its just the receiver lug that is snapped in the OP here. Or the broken one could be epoxy`d into position which works well also, with 5 minute epoxy, another simple fix if you have some epoxy.

I would often just replace the box to a metal one myself though, to a double usually.