Treating Rust

14-06-2012 12:43am #1

Amazing stuff.
Especially when you clean it with an air compressor.

http://www.hammerite.co.uk/guide/rust_remover_gel.jsp

14-06-2012 9:49am

Before After.jpg
Before & After.

moodrater · 14-06-2012 1:08pm

Its just 2-HYDROXY-1,2,3-PROPANE TRICARBOXYLIC ACID

Looks like good tack. Can also recommend the fertan / vactan stuff they use on steel hulls and keels its a combined rust converter / primer so you just wirewheel then paint with fertan and you have a perfect base for painting over. Its been a lot more successful for me than zinc primer.

Aidan_M_M · 14-06-2012 11:49pm

Good pics Liam . I've used http://www.cleancar.ie/bilt-hamber-deox-gel.html this stuff , awesome tack too , and stops working when it gets to clean metal . Also harmless to rubber and plastics , I dipped whole brake calipers into the powder-in-water solution variant and they were perfect.

10-07-2012 9:58am

Anyone know where I can buy vactan off the self?

moodrater · 10-07-2012 2:17pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Anyone know where I can buy vactan off the self?

I've bought mine off ebay probably cheaper even including shipping, if you really want to get it locally then call around the chandlerys, boat yards, marine supplies.

Viking Marine stock the fertan.

09-08-2012 11:04pm

Vactan In Action.

Beats Hammerite ever day of the week

stevire · 10-08-2012 1:53pm

Doing a refurb of the bumblebee??

cormie · 10-08-2012 2:03pm

From what I've read before, to treat rust properly, you really need to sand down, fill and paint and these types of products are only temporary solutions? I've a few rust patches I'd liked to get rid of, but would be far too big a job to have to sand, fill and paint each one. Would one of the above products really work?

11-08-2012 1:18am

Refurb done that photo's two weeks old

What I mean is vactan is the best if you can get an angle-grinder to it first.

For Light or delicate stuff like behind brake lines or bodywork use Hammerite, air compressor, power-hose, air compressor, repeat...

Aidan_M_M · 12-08-2012 12:22pm

cormie wrote: »

From what I've read before, to treat rust properly, you really need to sand down, fill and paint and these types of products are only temporary solutions? I've a few rust patches I'd liked to get rid of, but would be far too big a job to have to sand, fill and paint each one. Would one of the above products really work?

I've used the Bilthamber in the type of scenarios you've mentioned , and on the edges of a bonnet etc that I didn't want to sand , and it worked as well as sanding , poss even better .

stevire · 13-08-2012 1:56pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Refurb done that photo's two weeks old

What I mean is vactan is the best if you can get an angle-grinder to it first.

For Light or delicate stuff like behind brake lines or bodywork use Hammerite, air compressor, power-hose, air compressor, repeat...

Any pics of the refurb??

14-08-2012 5:31pm

DSC_0184.JPG

Aidan_M_M · 14-08-2012 11:41pm

did you paint it yourself?

15-08-2012 10:31am

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

did you paint it yourself?

Just the chassis, the black and the patches, I had a polish crash repairs do the yellow for me.

I'll upload the rebuild photos when my laptop comes back from the vet.

Aidan_M_M · 15-08-2012 12:45pm

I recall painting my mk1 Tranny, on a boiling hot day, running around trying to keep wet paint to wet!

Aidan_M_M · 15-08-2012 12:45pm

I recall painting my mk1 Tranny, on a boiling hot day, running around trying to keep wet paint to wet!

15-08-2012 5:15pm

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

I recall painting my mk1 Tranny, on a boiling hot day, running around trying to keep wet paint to wet!

Better than trying to do it in the rain anyways. That's great craic too.

moodrater · 15-08-2012 7:05pm

How much did the polish guy charge? Is that a lewmar boat hatch in the side, was it ok for the doe?

16-08-2012 8:47pm

1550 for treating visable rust, stone chip, colour change, bodywork/reconstruction on three doors and the front grill 2 years ago.
He's since sold business and returned to Poland.

Vetus window no probs. for DOE (see window marking thread), neither was the wood burner after I offered they test it's resilience.

moodrater · 18-08-2012 4:58pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

1550 for treating visable rust, stone chip, colour change, bodywork/reconstruction on three doors and the front grill 2 years ago.
He's since sold business and returned to Poland.

Vetus window no probs. for DOE (see window marking thread), neither was the wood burner after I offered they test it's resilience.

Thanks, my brother will be looking for a lower half spray on a sprinter so was just wondering what kind of rate he could expect. Local guy is pretty expensive understandable considering the investment he's had to make due to eu regulations, health safety, epa etc.

I was considering boat hatches myself, did your come with a backplate of did you just glue it in? Escape hatches designed to be opened from the outside too, how did you secure it internally? Sorry for drilling you for information

19-08-2012 2:33am

No probs.
The previous owner installed it very badly. I drilled out the rivets cleaned it, glued and riveted it back in. Theres 20 holes for screws/rivets on mine in the aluminium backplate, I don't know if these were there by drill or design. Simple stuff either way.