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Beech hedging
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19-06-2012 4:17pm#1
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I only trim mine once a year as I like the effect there is no reason not to do it twice a year if you are that way inclined.
As regards when to prune beech, a tree, you can prune what you like when you like in your garden, but the best advice as to when to do pruning of a tree (in general Paddy147
) i.e. the optimum times to allow the tree to recover from the wounds, is mid summer and mid winter, as in spring the tree is best focusing its energy on startup rether than recovery and in autumn the tree is best focusing its energy on shutdown. 0 -
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some pics.
Several tons of old shyte soil,grass and rubble removed by the missus and new topsoil,manure,compost horticultural grit and fertilizer pellets installed/dug in.
Breroot hornbeams watered down,prior to planting,to prevent drying out and shock.
Bareroots planted and pruned back too,so the energy goes back into the roots and not the shoots.
Watered daily and liquid fed every 3 weeks.All work done by my missus.:)
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If planting hedges with bareroot plants, cut back by a third to a half straight after planting. Cut back any branches growing at right angles to the hedge.
Always prepare the soil well, esp if beside a wall, add plenty of farmyard manure(helps hold moisture as along a wall will be dry).
With beech/ or hornbeam as I happen to have planted in my garden- and I have said this before:D:D dont prune in spring theyre busy producing new leaves, dont prune in autumn theyre shutting down for the winter...
Dont prune in winter, theyre resting/ dormant and cannot deal with it, IMO:D.
Prune in the summer but wait til late summer if you dont want hedge to put on too much growth before autumn.
As in beech/ hornbeam- flower/ berry considerations not taken into account as not usually grown for these qualitys.
I usually use blood, fish and bone or mulch with farmyard manure- might be more cost effective/ liquid feeds can be good too though.
Hope this helps some. 0 -
Just to add, in case... because its pruning, at not the best time. :rolleyes::eek:
The reason being, IMO.
With Bareroot plants they have been grown in the ground/ then dug up- which equals root loss- you compensate for this by cutting back shoots at planting time, but thats not the only reason.
bareroot or not- formative pruning is essential. 0 -
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When you dig up your bare roots,make sure to give them a good watering over the roots,as this will prevent/delay any shock to the bare roots,before being replanted.
This is important for the bare roots to survive and establish themselves.
Also,the more crap and crud you can take out of the ground,then the better the hedging and various plants/flowers will grow.My missus had ro remove alot of 804 hardcore and builders rubble that had got trampled/enbedded into the ground around the house from when the builders were working away.
There was also alot of sharp sand,dashing and cement mashed into the ground too,so allmost all of the soil and ground was dug up by herself,and it was disposed of to a recycling centre.Then several tons of new topsoil,compost,manure,horticultrual grit and fertilizer pellets were shoveled in and leveled off to make the new gardens
They key to good hedging and plants is good soil/ground preperation.:)
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Chip bark/bark mulch is also very good at keeping out frost in wintertime and also keeping moisture in summertime,after it has rained.So too is Mypex membrane.
Allways handy on those "rare" warm sunny days.And on those long cold icy/frosty winter days and nights too.
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