The Beadophiles

Curran

Applied directly to the paintwork, no SRP, it is very good.

JAMES VTI S

Polish Angel Esclate & Master Sealant

georgefalls

Slattsy wrote: »

Slightly off topic but..

Is it really that good Curran?
I've still a load of SRP at home... so doubt i'd need the EGP then if i got the Hi Def wax?

AG HD is brilliant. Don't let the price put you off. A little goes a long way, so the tub lasts for years.
I've had mine about three years now, and used it dozens of times, and still got a fair bit left.
It won't "go off" with age, like some waxes.

MetzgerMeister

georgefalls wrote: »

AG HD is brilliant. Don't let the price put you off. A little goes a long way, so the tub lasts for years.
I've had mine about three years now, and used it dozens of times, and still got a fair bit left.
It won't "go off" with age, like some waxes.

What he should know is that due to its ingredients, it SHOULD be a lot more expensive but AutoGlym's main idea with HD wax was to produce a high-end wax that was affordable.

Slattsy

Cheers lads.
I do find the AG products very good, especially when you take into account the 3 for 2 offers in Halfords.
Any tips for applying the Hi Def wax. I mean apart from the proper prep and clay - should i use SRP before a coat or 2 of wax?

Curran

If your paintwork is swirled and you need to hide that then yes....otherwise no!
Remember the wax will hide some light defects. Best to try a test area....try find the worst panel and apply a small sectio and see if the wax alone will hide enough defects to satisfy you!

Slattsy

Curran wrote: »

If your paintwork is swirled and you need to hide that then yes....otherwise no!
Remember the wax will hide some light defects. Best to try a test area....try find the worst panel and apply a small sectio and see if the wax alone will hide enough defects to satisfy you!

I am never satisfied! Its a curse.

Joking aside, many swirls on motor. (Car was 4 yr old when i got bought it.)
So will def need some filler. I do find the SRP good in that respect.

Might sound a stupid question but is there a wax out there with a good volume of filler, so i could avoid using both a filler/polish and wax combo?

georgefalls

Slattsy wrote: »

I am never satisfied! Its a curse.

Joking aside, many swirls on motor. (Car was 4 yr old when i got bought it.)
So will def need some filler. I do find the SRP good in that respect.

Might sound a stupid question but is there a wax out there with a good volume of filler, so i could avoid using both a filler/polish and wax combo?

Get a DA on it, if you can... Sorted

Slattsy

georgefalls wrote: »

Get a DA on it, if you can... Sorted

Yeah I know, really love to get one on it.
It's only needs one going over really.

georgefalls

Slattsy wrote: »

Yeah I know, really love to get one on it.
It's only needs one going over really.

You anywhere near Carlow...? Come and borrow mine.. Do it here, in the garage..

MarkR

Been a while since my last visit here. Vrs is gone, now I have a focus. Quick wash and some collinite 845. Turned out very slick looking.

Hatfry

Very nice. Can anyone tell me where to get decent sized amounts of collinite 845 on the cheap?

vectra

Hatfry wrote: »

Very nice. Can anyone tell me where to get decent sized amounts of collinite 845 on the cheap?

You wont need decent amounts of it.
One bottle does a lot... a big lot.. and awful lot of coats and will last a very long time.

Get it from detailingshed.

mikeyod123

Finally got round to getting a good picture of the beading on a golf I done about two weeks using collinite 845. Happy with the beading for my first attempt at a detail

Slattsy

Collinite seems to be the dogs bollíx alright.

Spike Witwicky

That Collinite 845 seems to be really good. Some really good beading there.

MetzgerMeister

mikeyod123 wrote: »

Finally got round to getting a good picture of the beading on a golf I done about two weeks using collinite 845. Happy with the beading for my first attempt at a detail

You badly need to clay your car. That's why your beads aren't as "bubbly" as they should be with Collinite 845.

Slattsy

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

You badly need to clay your car. That's why your beads aren't as "bubbly" as they should be with Collinite 845.

Am I safe to assume that claying will remove all lsp?
(only leaving the paint)

MetzgerMeister

Slattsy wrote: »

Am I safe to assume that claying will remove all lsp?
(only leaving the paint)

Yep claying will strip everything back to the lacquer.

vectra

Slattsy wrote: »

Am I safe to assume that claying will remove all lsp?
(only leaving the paint)

Yes,
Then Polish
Wash with APC and fairy liquid Mix.
Rinse
Rinse
Dry
apply 2 coats of 845.
Ta-daa..

mikeyod123

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

You badly need to clay your car. That's why your beads aren't as "bubbly" as they should be with Collinite 845.

I did clay the car but I guess i didnt do a great job so

Slattsy

vectra wrote: »

Yes,
Then Polish
Wash with APC and fairy liquid Mix.
Rinse
Rinse
Dry
apply 2 coats of 845.
Ta-daa..

Hang on..
Polish. Then use an apc over that?
I don't understand why you'd do that. Will the apc mix not strip the polish?

vectra

Slattsy wrote: »

Hang on..
Polish. Then use an apc over that?
I don't understand why you'd do that. Will the apc mix not strip the polish?

Polish to prep the paint.
APC / Fairy mix to remove any oils from polish as Collinite works better on bare paint.
You will keep your shine gained in the prep.

MetzgerMeister

mikeyod123 wrote: »

I did clay the car but I guess i didnt do a great job so

You should be getting much better beading than that. Is there a layer of dust or dirt on the car since you waxed it? That can also cause bad beading and when you wash the car again, it'll be fine.

Slattsy

vectra wrote: »

Polish to prep the paint.
APC / Fairy mix to remove any oils from polish as Collinite works better on bare paint.
You will keep your shine gained in the prep.

Is that rule specific to Collinite?

Chimaera

Slattsy wrote: »

Is that rule specific to Collinite?

I'd guess he's talking about machine polishing here where you're using a DA or rotary polisher and abrasive compound to correct the paint surface. The polishes used leave a residue which needs to be removed in order to do a good job with sealant and wax.

MetzgerMeister

Slattsy wrote: »

Is that rule specific to Collinite?

Nope. See, a polish is mainly used with a polishing machine to remove scratches. All residues should then be removed and a wax applied which bonds to the surface layer of the lacquer.

The likes of SRP are applied by hand and designed to temporarily fill scratches. It's often been said that using another AG product on top of it will give the best benefits as an LSP as they are designed to work together.

The likes of Collinite don't work well on top of the likes of SRP because they aren't designed to work on top of a layer of polish, therefore will not bond like it would to just the top layer of lacquer.

TomMc

Paint sealants bond to paint, carnauba waxes only really stick to it. If the paint surface still contains some polishing oils (after polishing) it can compromise or weaken the bond a paint sealant makes with the surface. In the case of waxes it can reduce adherence to the paint surface and so shorten the durability of the wax.

Some oily polishes or pre-wax cleaners and waxes are designed to work together. They have pros and cons. The polish or pre-wax cleaner (often non-abrasive) contains fillers and glazing oils, so you get a glossier and wetter looking finish, but shorter durability from the wax. This is more suitable for show cars.

Some other polish/pre-wax cleaner and wax combos are cleaner polishes which leave the paint surface "squeaky clean" and dry (in comparison to an oil-heavy polish) so a durable wax will adhere better to the bare surface and so last longer. This a better option for daily drivers. That is why Collinite do a pre-wax cleaner in their range but it is not recommended for use on modern clearcoats. Their products are around that long. Plenty of other products out there that do the polishing or pre-wax cleaning step far better.

Ded_Zebra

This beading, though it is alright isn't very impressive. However there is absolutely no (and I mean 15 years and 368,000miles worth of no!!!!) LSP on this car. While drying the car after it's wash for the meet I put 2-4 sprays of OAC Perfection on each panel. It's only been on a couple days but IMO still very impressive for this kind of product. I'm going to see how it holds up at the next wash

Spike Witwicky

Might have to give that Perfection a go. Good results there.

Rained last night. Got to check out the beading on my fresh coat of Petes 53

nd

A bit of beading kinda on my wheels.



Put 2 coats of collinite 845 on them, hoping it'll make washing off brake dust ect easier.

mikeyod123

Detailed an old 02 focus which I think went well. A few coats of autoglym SRP followed with 2 coats of collinite 845. I think it came out well and gave me the best beading ive seen yet and I finally found out how to link the picture in the thread :pac:

nd

Put a fresh coat of colinite on it last night and this was it this morning after heavy rain



this beading perhaps looks better but its the same surface after going for a drive and getting lighter rain

PGE1970

Just to stir things up in the Collinite love in!!.

I've had Collinite 845 and loved it. Using CG Butterwax at the moment but running out and will return to Collinite.

But do I go back to 845 or try 476?

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/collinite-476s-super-double-coat-wax-18fl-oz/prod_451.html

Any views?

MadYaker

This thread is weird....

MetzgerMeister

PGE1970 wrote: »

Just to stir things up in the Collinite love in!!.

I've had Collinite 845 and loved it. Using CG Butterwax at the moment but running out and will return to Collinite.

But do I go back to 845 or try 476?

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/collinite-476s-super-double-coat-wax-18fl-oz/prod_451.html

Any views?

If you're used to 845, you'll just find 476 a pain in the hole to work with. Stick with 845

PGE1970

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

If you're used to 845, you'll just find 476 a pain in the hole to work with. Stick with 845

Is it that hard to use? 845 is a joy to use; is 476 that "sticky" and hard to manage?

Also, thinking of getting myself a DA; I presume this wouldn't affect the choice of wax as it's (the DA) more to do with polish?

Also, out of interest , is there a credible alternative to 845? As mentioned above, I have CG Butterwax and find 845 was much better.

(I'll running out (gunmetal grey e90) so need a wax shortly!)

MetzgerMeister

It's very hard to remove if you put too much on or leave it on too long. I would never go back to 476 now that I know and love 845.

The choice of wax shouldn't concern the D/A at all. It's actually quicker and more enjoyable to apply the wax by hand than to use the D/A.

Is your pain the Sparkling Graphite Metallic (A22)? I've that on my E92 and it looks superb with the 845.

vectra

I can seea thread soon.
"Show us your 845 treated paint"

PGE1970

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

It's very hard to remove if you put too much on or leave it on too long. I would never go back to 476 now that I know and love 845.

The choice of wax shouldn't concern the D/A at all. It's actually quicker and more enjoyable to apply the wax by hand than to use the D/A.

Is your pain the Sparkling Graphite Metallic (A22)? I've that on my E92 and it looks superb with the 845.

Yeah, it's A22 - still haven't used 845 on it as had the CG just before I bought it. Looks like it's a bottle of 845 so!

Out of interest MM, if I was to get a DA, what polish would you recommend? I see Menzerna mentioned a lot such as link below

http://www.cleancar.ie/menzerna250mlpolishpack.html

Curran

Bilt Hamber Finis-Wax


Wax I've been asked to test


Applied them side by side to compare durability - was very easy to apply!


NO Wax :P :P

Mc Love

That looks very well!

Curran

Applied to the "test" car (the wife's :P), which hasnt ever seen a polisher....absolutely no protection on it, been months since it was last washed. Snowfoamed, washed, fall out remover, rinsed, let dry and then applied......so FAR from an ideal surface to be applying wax onto, but as I said, its only a test and Finis-Wax is the control to compare it to!

MetzgerMeister

PGE1970 wrote: »

Yeah, it's A22 - still haven't used 845 on it as had the CG just before I bought it. Looks like it's a bottle of 845 so!

Out of interest MM, if I was to get a DA, what polish would you recommend? I see Menzerna mentioned a lot such as link below

http://www.cleancar.ie/menzerna250mlpolishpack.html

German paint needs German polish Menzerna is made to be used with German paint so IMO it's your best bet. I use Menzerna for cutting but for finishing I use Chemical Guys V38 finishing polish.

vectra

I use Wolfs chemicals polishes for cutting and finishing at the moment with a Das6 pro and mf pads.
Very pleased with the cutting ability and the results.

georgefalls

Caught in the rain this aft. Got home, parked in the garage, and took this as I stepped out the car.
4 coats of AG HD

Slattsy

Im def getting that wax !! AWESOME

MetzgerMeister

Just so ye know lads, after 2 coats of wax, it becomes an exercise of diminishing results. 4 coats, while it's loads of protection, it's a bit of a waste.

georgefalls

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Just so ye know lads, after 2 coats of wax, it becomes an exercise of diminishing results. 4 coats, while it's loads of protection, it's a bit of a waste.

Never knew that.
How is loads more not better, does more coats remove the lower coats..?

Curran

No, doesnt do anything to the lower coats - its just that there is no real extra gain from doing loads of extra coats.
They say to do two coats to ensure you get 100% coverage, as spots are often missed on the first coat.

I suppose to compare it in a way; its like snowfoaming your car once - will do the majority of the job, twice to ensure a good job was done; doing it 3, 4 or 5 times is a bit pointless - no harm though! Im sure you've better things to be doing with your time! :P