Old house renovation cost

EPointer=Birdss

All posted this in Construction but got no help so hoping guys the cost forum is more appropriate.

We are looking at Old house approx 2000 sq ft on real nice site. 25 yr old.
I am mid architect selection & doing a survey shortly before moving ahead with anything.
My question is house is from looking at the house estimate restoration costs & would appreciate the thoughts of you guys. Im only asking for opinions & thoughts not hard facts as that will sort itself out over the next few weeks with builders etc

List of things I would like to do;
Change windows
Strip tiles, re lat & felt & slate
Re plump to decent spec with Solar, Oil, bb stove & radiators
Rewire
Kingspan external walls
All plaster works around windows & internal over kingspan

Optionals are stone front of house
Build on extension to side of house as new kitchen of approx 400sq ft.
Internal finish is a room by room approach

Would love genuine thoughts???

kilclon

I'd say you are looking at upwards of 100k. It can vary greatly depending on the spec. You could spend twice that. Where is the house?

EPointer=Birdss

kilclon wrote: »

I'd say you are looking at upwards of 100k. It can vary greatly depending on the spec. You could spend twice that. Where is the house?

Cheers - North Cork.
Was thinking in the 100K plus range. Good to get ideas before it goes out for pricing...

Ddad

If your doing the extension I'd say your cutting that tight on 100k. You'll need a new kitchen. New bathrooms. If your doing solar and upgrading the heating etc you may as well replumb as the existing circuit won't be suitable for zoning. If the house is 25 years old you may as well look at the electrics as well, while the place is torn asunder. The windows alone will be a minimum of 8-10K. Flooring costs on that size of a house are considerable. Chances are the facia and soffit are timber and that'll need renewing. We did a very similar job recently and spent 150K with the solar, stove etc. We didn't externally insulate as the cost was prohibitive and spent a lot on glazing and insulation instead.

Having said that we did do a lot of reconfiguring inside but that wasn't the expensive part of the build.

We're in east Cork and I'd be happy to give you a steer on anything if you want to pm me. Best of luck;)

sky.boy

Renovated a small house ourselves last year that hadn't been updated for about 30 years. The house is about 1000 sq. ft. and you wouldn't believe what you can oncover with and old house. Every little thing you discover just seems to cost more money. more than likely youve no insulation in the floors. That means pulling up all the floors, insulating and get new floors poured and levelled. that can cost quite a bit. Another cost when renovating that you might not think of is skip hire. We spent 1500 on skips. the list is endless

EPointer=Birdss

Ddad wrote: »

If your doing the extension I'd say your cutting that tight on 100k. You'll need a new kitchen. New bathrooms. If your doing solar and upgrading the heating etc you may as well replumb as the existing circuit won't be suitable for zoning. If the house is 25 years old you may as well look at the electrics as well, while the place is torn asunder. The windows alone will be a minimum of 8-10K. Flooring costs on that size of a house are considerable. Chances are the facia and soffit are timber and that'll need renewing. We did a very similar job recently and spent 150K with the solar, stove etc. We didn't externally insulate as the cost was prohibitive and spent a lot on glazing and insulation instead.

Having said that we did do a lot of reconfiguring inside but that wasn't the expensive part of the build.

We're in east Cork and I'd be happy to give you a steer on anything if you want to pm me. Best of luck;)

Much appreciated. Any recommendations on builders etc that you could PM?
Anything general then I'll try & keep on the thread so others may benefit from the discussion also...

We were onside last night again & have moved from the stone & extension (there's already a extention there that I wanted to rejig but on review I had a few brainwaives)
I started rough costing & you could be right but I will put it out to tender & peel back what I can't afford up front. Quiet happy to take our time doing it to get it right as our own house is 10 mins away.
Plumbing is 100% a must & my mates a sparks so either was redoing the wiring.
Internally we are happy with the spaces so that should help & hopin the kingspan will sort the insulation as have seen it work very well in old houses before.
I would be handy with DIY so hope to undertake as much of the finishing as possible but for the fundamentals like the heating I want it right.

The site is a beaut & theres loads to be done outside which I enjoy doing but once complete it will be perfect for us. Few acres surrounded by mature trees, sweeping drive already there with the house walled in & elevated, plenty of stone buildings too.

Thanks again
EP

EPointer=Birdss

sky.boy wrote: »

Renovated a small house ourselves last year that hadn't been updated for about 30 years. The house is about 1000 sq. ft. and you wouldn't believe what you can oncover with and old house. Every little thing you discover just seems to cost more money. more than likely youve no insulation in the floors. That means pulling up all the floors, insulating and get new floors poured and levelled. that can cost quite a bit. Another cost when renovating that you might not think of is skip hire. We spent 1500 on skips. the list is endless

There's an unknown amount of hidden costs that we have money aside for but to your point god knows what we uncover but I'm hoping my new best friend Mr Architect does his job & surveys it properly this week.
Was looking at the self Leveling floors. Should make everything else easier afterwards. Changing all doors so heights shouldn't be an issue.
Be much easier to just build a new but can't find a site to match.

BryanF

EPointer=Birdss wrote: »

hopin the kingspan will sort the insulation as have seen it work very well in old houses before.

? care to elaborate

EPointer=Birdss

BryanF wrote: »

? care to elaborate

Seems you asked nicely :rolleyes:
Stud & drylining with 2" insulated kingspan backed plasterboard on all external walls.

Ddad

Our house is non standard cavity wall. With only 80mm cavity (which we pumped) a further 32.5mm board (25mm poly urethane) which we lined again with 75mm board( I think) and skimmed on inside face of all external walls. I was nervous about this route. However, there was no damp penetration on the previous drylining and I double checked with kingspan to see if it was an acceptable approach to dryline on top of the existing drylining and that was oked by their tech dept.

I'm pleased with how comfortable the house feels so far. No battens BTW. I think that very much depends on your current wall construction.

EPointer=Birdss

Update on house. Cavities on external walls have the old aeroboard.
2 questions for now;

1. Would pumping these cavities be suffiecient for comfortable conditions or would the addition of the internal or something else external be needed? (all windows etc changing also) obviously more is better but thoughts?

2. No floor insulation evident but there is damp course in the walls which was a surprise. Would I need to redo floors with insulation?
Caught with door head heights unless I dig them up...

EP

ccsolar

EPointer=Birdss wrote: »

Update on house. Cavities on external walls have the old aeroboard.
2 questions for now;

1. Would pumping these cavities be suffiecient for comfortable conditions or would the addition of the internal or something else external be needed? (all windows etc changing also) obviously more is better but thoughts?

2. No floor insulation evident but there is damp course in the walls which was a surprise. Would I need to redo floors with insulation?
Caught with door head heights unless I dig them up...

EP

Hi
The plumbing should set you back about 20k inc solar
Have you checked out the SEAI web site for all the grants you are entitled to claim
You should claw back 5-7k from the grants
Cc

EPointer=Birdss

ccsolar wrote: »

Hi
The plumbing should set you back about 20k inc solar
Have you checked out the SEAI web site for all the grants you are entitled to claim
You should claw back 5-7k from the grants
Cc

Discussed it with architect alright & will go for as many as possible.
Would you think the current pipes to the rads would save much money?
They are all copper & in good condition. Obviously the cylinder would need changing but as all the rads are running back to that point anyway surely it would take a bit of the sting out of it?
Fully accept the 20k mark as this was what the archi said also

Ddad

Your only storing up trouble by reusing 25 year old plumbing with new boiler, tank etc. You'll have joins under the floor.You won't be able to zone the plumbing other than DHW and the rads. That circa 20k should include a complete replumb and your solar and a stove. Thats about what we spent on ours with 60 hp200 tubes onto a 600 litre buffer and a 25kw stove connected to a 300 litre cylinder. Single flow and return to all the rads with no underfloor joins and they are all pipe in pipe. Our builders ran the pipework and did the chasing with the plumber doing the connections. Considerably cheaper than the plumber doing all the work.

You won't get 7k off the seai unless you use external insulation, if you do the new boiler, inulation ,zoning and solar you'll get around 4500. I wouldn't get too hung up about the lack of insulation in the floors. You'll have a huge payback time on any savings made by tearing them up and redoing them with proper insulation. Put that money into your wall/roof insulation and windows and you'll get a better payoff. You can also put some insualtion under wooden floors. Not great but better than nothing. I'd imagine if your doing that much work you'll be renewing your internal joinery so you could get doors rehung to accomodate the extra height needed to put some insualtion under the floor.

Have you any existing mould in the house? What is the current ventilation arrangement in the house?

EPointer=Birdss

Good points on the pipes in fairness.
Might be as easy to redo upfront.
Mate got his new build dine to your spec for 18k.

Chopping doors wasn't my concern. It's losing height as you walk through & at 6' 3" I dont like low doorways, ceilings, etc
I'm leaning towards leaving floors as is insulation wise but all plumbing is in the floors so how would I run pipes? Chase new space?

No mould what so ever in the house.
There are vents in each room.

isaos

Our plumber left some of the old copper pipes running from the new boiler (cost effective, as said before) to 2 of the rads and repiped all the others incl new by cutting a trench in the concrete floor. It seems to be working well, all rads are piping hot (heated by oil-fuelled Stanley installed in 1996).

Luckily enough one of the plumbers had installed the old system and was able to find a joint that was leaking beneath the concrete floor. The old copper system had been slightly pulled out from outside by a digger when rebuilding part of the old lean-to...
Try to get them map the piping system if you can!
I am still unable to post the total cost of renovating the house, job isn't totally finished and getting estimates is totally impossible :rolleyes: so we just pray every night. And pay the following morning.

Ddad

EPointer=Birdss wrote: »

Good points on the pipes in fairness.
Might be as easy to redo upfront.
Mate got his new build dine to your spec for 18k.

A nice bit of rework in mine hence the extra cost and we had two lots of the insulated heating pipe to the garage which is very expensive.

Chopping doors wasn't my concern. It's losing height as you walk through & at 6' 3" I dont like low doorways, ceilings, etc
I'm leaning towards leaving floors as is insulation wise but all plumbing is in the floors so how would I run pipes? Chase new space?

Ours is a bungalow so a single trench down the hall with smaller trenches going to each rad position. The wooden floor and the underlay will cost you an inch or so; I'd say you'll manage;):P

No mould what so ever in the house.
There are vents in each room.

Same scenario as us so. You can seal the vents when you dryline and adequately spec trickle vents on the windows. This can get tricky e.g. a room with an open fire will require the equivalent of at least a 4 inch wall vent for adequate ventilation. However you can find out what size your trickle vents are per linear metre (window supplier)and work out how many of these you can accomodate in your window opening to adequately ventilate the room. If you can't fit in adequate trickle vants because of the window size you can always put in an external air supply; easily done if the stove is against an external wall. You can also put in an external air supply at floor level to a stove but obviously thats an additional expense. Or leave a vent open in that room failing all that.

If you dryline the external leaf following manufacturers specifications for the product you'll achieve a good result at a fraction of the cost of external insulation. Thats not to say external if done right isn't a better job. It is. It's just expensive and you'd want to be dead sure of your contractor. Mind you, you'd want to be sure that your contractor is fitting the dryling to manufacturers specifications too or you could have stored up woes there.

muffler

Ddad, if you drop the forward slash (/) from the first quote tag to leave it looking like this

then the text will appear in a proper quote box

Ddad

Ta Muffler, I'll edit that.

poker--addict

Guys....something for you to get your teeth into, possible very similar to OPs project. There is a link to a house, not even looked at it but just want to hear your general thoughts on any type of property like the following. http://www.daft.ie/searchsale.daft?id=598248

For this one I think work that needed includes (but feel free to add something major i might forget), maybe some ball park figures for each one

• wiring
• plumbing
• roof
• new kitchen
• new bathrooom
• garden
• heating?

Garden - main cost is felling and removing large trees.
Roof- might be ok, but usually these houses at least need some repairs (this one certainly needs cleaning :rolleyes:)
Kitchen and bathroom need full refits but would not plan on anything to flash.
Plumbing and rewiring are usually a given with such a project are they

poker--addict

BryanF

poker--addict wrote: »

Guys....something for you to get your teeth into, possible very similar to OPs project. There is a link to a house, not even looked at it but just want to hear your general thoughts on any type of property like the following. http://www.daft.ie/searchsale.daft?id=598248

For this one I think work that needed includes (but feel free to add something major i might forget), maybe some ball park figures for each one

• wiring
• plumbing
• roof
• new kitchen
• new bathrooom
• garden
• heating?

Garden - main cost is felling and removing large trees.
Roof- might be ok, but usually these houses at least need some repairs (this one certainly needs cleaning :rolleyes:)
Kitchen and bathroom need full refits but would not plan on anything to flash.
Plumbing and rewiring are usually a given with such a project are they

poker--addict wrote: »

were you waiting for someone to do the job for free

BryanF

isaos wrote: »

Our plumber left some of the old copper pipes running from the new boiler (cost effective, as said before) to 2 of the rads and repiped all the others incl new by cutting a trench in the concrete floor. It seems to be working well, all rads are piping hot (heated by oil-fuelled Stanley installed in 1996).

Luckily enough one of the plumbers had installed the old system and was able to find a joint that was leaking beneath the concrete floor. The old copper system had been slightly pulled out from outside by a digger when rebuilding part of the old lean-to...
Try to get them map the piping system if you can!
I am still unable to post the total cost of renovating the house, job isn't totally finished and getting estimates is totally impossible :rolleyes: so we just pray every night. And pay the following morning.

isaos
hows the reno going?
what insulation/wall construction did you go with in the end?
regards
Bryan

poker--addict

ha no BryanF I thought there would be some regulars on this part of the forum that would relish waffling on about this type of thing :D:D:P

BryanF

poker--addict wrote: »

ha no BryanF I thought there would be some regulars on this part of the forum that would relish waffling on about this type of thing :D:D:P

I for one am over that:D. best advice i can give is get a builder round when your view the house, he give you a back of fag box estimate. and as with anything alot depends on your requirements of comfort and style.

FTB1

Folks,

Looking for some advice/guidance on the below. We are first time buyers and have just started looking at what's available on the market. We've viewed about 20 houses in the past couple of weeks and very quickly realized that we will have do some work on the ones that we like.

Our approach now is to try get an estimate on how much it will cost us to do some of the works before putting any offer forward. Works that we are thinking of that need doing:

Knock down partitioning between kitchen and dining
Renovation of kitchen ~ 16sq m
Do a small extension at the back to have more kitchen/dining space around 20sq m
Renovation of main bathroom and en-suite
some of the windows are broken and need re-doing

Am sure many have been through this process and which crowd/company would you recommend to get estimates?

Also, did a quick Googling and came across the following:

-snip-



Appreciate any feedback on or share any experiences you've had with them or any others that you would recommend

cheers

dsouths

In the process of purchasing a property & plan to gt the place, rewiring, replumbing, new windows, re plaster, etc & add a small extension onto the back.

What I wanted to know is if the extension is less than 40m2 & does not require planning permission is there anything else I need to consider such as certificate of compliance or any sort of health & safety cert I'd need? AS its under 40m2 do I have free reign & don't have to let any planning department/building regs department know?

any info much appreciated

dave