tiling onto wood boards or not?

maervyn

laying tiles onto wood
Hi all,
hopefully someone can help us out here.
we want to lay rectangular porcelain tiles in our hall. having recently had new(expensive) internal doors fitted at each end of this hallway our problem now is that the door fitters left the door frames 25mm up off the hall floor in the assumption that we were fitting solid wood floors there at a later date. So now we have to somehow raise the tiles up to meet the underside of the door frames in order to avoid leaving very visible gaps between the two.
ive been advised that putting down a double thick layer of tile adhesive probably isnt the best way to raise the tile height..:D:D
Another suggestion we had is to glue chipboard or plywood onto the concrete floor and then tile directly onto that which would certainly give me the right height.
is this a good idea or is there a better way?
And is there a certain type or grade of board i would need?
any advice or suggestions will be welcomed with open ears.
thanks in advance.... maervyn...

paddy147

maervyn wrote: »

laying tiles onto wood
Hi all,
hopefully someone can help us out here.
we want to lay rectangular porcelain tiles in our hall. having recently had new(expensive) internal doors fitted at each end of this hallway our problem now is that the door fitters left the door frames 25mm up off the hall floor in the assumption that we were fitting solid wood floors there at a later date. So now we have to somehow raise the tiles up to meet the underside of the door frames in order to avoid leaving very visible gaps between the two.
ive been advised that putting down a double thick layer of tile adhesive probably isnt the best way to raise the tile height..:D:D
Another suggestion we had is to glue chipboard or plywood onto the concrete floor and then tile directly onto that which would certainly give me the right height.
is this a good idea or is there a better way?
And is there a certain type or grade of board i would need?
any advice or suggestions will be welcomed with open ears.
thanks in advance.... maervyn...

15mm WPB Plywood or marine Playwood express nailed onto the concrete floor and then just apply the tile adhesive and then the tiles.

Job done.:)

PS-WPB stands for Weather/Water Proof Board.

You will pick up an 8 x 4 foot sheet of 15mm WPB in a builders providera for around 20 euro or thereabouts.

earpiece

Are you running the tiles through the doorways? If not, the thing to do is put a saddle in the doorway and this will bridge your gap and give a visual break if you are using different floor finishes in the rooms.
If not, then use WBP plywood and fix it firmly to the concrete and lash down the tiles.

paddy147

earpiece wrote: »

Are you running the tiles through the doorways? If not, the thing to do is put a saddle in the doorway and this will bridge your gap and give a visual break if you are using different floor finishes in the rooms.
If not, then use WBP plywood and fix it firmly to the concrete and lash down the tiles.

I didnt use a saddle in my house.

The tiles run flush up to the wooden flooring,and the join line is sealed with a grey waterproof mastic.

Flush and dead level transfer from tile to wooden floor.:)

earpiece

paddy147 wrote: »

I didnt use a saddle in my house.

The tiles run flush up to the wooden flooring,and the join line is sealed with a grey waterproof mastic.

Flush and dead level transfer from tile to wooden floor.:)

Sweet, sometimes that works as a nice clean look, done it a few times myself.
The saddle is a suggestion which might solve a problem and save a lot of hassle laying ply.:)

paddy147

earpiece wrote: »

Sweet, sometimes that works as a nice clean look, done it a few times myself.
The saddle is a suggestion which might solve a problem and save a lot of hassle laying ply.:)

My doors are custom built into the walls and slide open and back into the walls,so I wanted to maintain the clean flowing look from tile to wooden floor.:)

Cedrus

You could lay marine ply and tile directly onto that, BUT, you shouldn't lay the plywood directly on concrete (chances are it wont be smooth enough anyway) because any damp, condensation or spills will affect the ply and it will warp and/or delaminate, chipboard will fare even worse. With enough space you could put laths under the ply but with only 25mm minus (Adhesive + Tile + Ply) your lathes will be only about 10mm.

It's also too little space to put down a concrete screed, (it would be so thin it would just crack), there might be a high performance levelling compound that could be used but you'd need one that is good for twice the depth that most of them are normally used at.

TopTec

paddy147 wrote: »

PS-WPB stands for Weather/Water Proof Board.

If you are referring to the ply sheets we all commonly use Paddy, you probably mean WBP board. . It actually stands for 'Water and Boil Proof'

I was laughed at by an older chippy when I used your answer - I had 2 hours of lecturing on how WBP board and marine ply is manufactured. Verrry boring.

TT