Ordered X-ring chain, received more expensive NON-ring chain...

rat_race

Hi,

I ordered new sprockets and X-ring chain from an Irish site. The exact description was "Chain & Sprockets DID X-Ring". I can't complain about the place as they were sound & quick to respond to my initial mails, and delivery was fast. Even threw in a few extras...(maybe to keep me quiet? )

But then they e-mailed me just before dispatch to say the DID chain was out of stock and they were sending a TSUBAKI instead, which they said were more expensive...but I would not be charged. I did some research and realised they make good chains too, so I was not too annoyed.

However, what I received were JT steel sprockets (okay, I suppose) and an off-road gold chain which is neither X-ring nor O-ring. Link to chain: http://www.tsubaki-rider.com/?type=product_guide&action=offroad ("MX Pro", first paragraph). It even says on the pack that they're recommended exclusively for motorcycles originally equipped (OEM) with non O-Ring chain.

This is for my Ninja 250R, which has an O-ring chain, AFAIK.

Won't these chains wear faster, hence wear sprockets faster, and also need more maintence (lubing)...? Any advantages to having these on my Ninja 250?

Should I be pissed? I sort of am. I think.

BTW, the cost of the chain and sprockets was 108e. I did buy other stuff too which was perfect.



Regards,
rat_race

CJhaughey

The reason that MX bikes run non O-ring chains is that O-rings have more frictional loss, in other words they use a bit more energy to spin around than a non-sealed chain.
In a race setting like MX or small capacity bikes then a non-o-ring is preferred because of the power difference and the fact these bikes will replace their chains often during the race season.
on a street bike like yours the difference in power at the rear wheel won't worry you but the dramatically shortened lifespan will.
Give them a ring and tell them you don't want a non-sealed chain.
and ask send it back at their cost, its not what you paid for.
edit:BTW I would still ask for a DID X-ring not a Tsubaki.
and JT sprockets are very good.

rat_race

CJhaughey wrote: »

The reason that MX bikes run non O-ring chains is that O-rings have more frictional loss, in other words they use a bit more energy to spin around than a non-sealed chain.
In a race setting like MX or small capacity bikes then a non-o-ring is preferred because of the power difference and the fact these bikes will replace their chains often during the race season.
on a street bike like yours the difference in power at the rear wheel won't worry you but the dramatically shortened lifespan will.
Give them a ring and tell them you don't want a non-sealed chain.
and ask send it back at their cost, its not what you paid for.
edit:BTW I would still ask for a DID X-ring not a Tsubaki.
and JT sprockets are very good.

Yeah, dunno what they were thinking...grrrrr. Thanks CJ.

thomashood10

I'm no expert but they seem to be designed for motorcross, so I would imagine they should hold up fairly well. They'd have to be colossal buttholes to send you a chain that mechanically couldn't be put on a ninja or one that would have a dramatically short lifespan.

As I said, no expert here

rat_race

thomashood10 wrote: »

I'm no expert but they seem to be designed for motorcross, so I would imagine they should hold up fairly well. They'd have to be colossal buttholes to send you a chain that mechanically couldn't be put on a ninja.

Yeah, they look very similar, except there is no X/O-ring...but they do wear quicker (from what I've read), etc...I do 80km a day a lot of days, I don't want to feel like I have to lube the chain every 3 days! (says you should every 150km to 300km for these chains)...More so, I don't want to tighten it every week!

I'm sure they'd last for a long time though...but still...

CJhaughey

520 chains will all fit the same, the only exceptions are vintage bikes which were designed before O-ring chains.
Sealed chains are wider by the width of 2x the sealing rings.
If the climate here was just dry then a non sealed chain would probably do, but here you frequently encounter wet conditions and this with the road grit quickly wrecks non sealed chains.

Doylers

Give this a go http://www.bitzforbikes.co.uk/search/Chain_and_Sprocket_Kits_ im going to get a kit for my little 125. What price are the irish site showing?

rat_race

Doylers wrote: »

Give this a go http://www.bitzforbikes.co.uk/search/Chain_and_Sprocket_Kits_ im going to get a kit for my little 125. What price are the irish site showing?

Was 108e for the chains & sprockets. Not a bad price...

They said if I send the chain back they'll sort me out with an x-ring...

Tigger

rat_race wrote: »

Was 108e for the chains & sprockets. Not a bad price...

They said if I send the chain back they'll sort me out with an x-ring...

WHO PAYS TO SEND IT BACK?>
sry caps

rat_race

Tigger wrote: »

WHO PAYS TO SEND IT BACK?>
sry caps

They should, legally. Cost me 7.50e. But, at this stage I'll be happy just to get the chain :P ... Before my current one falls off and kills me....

They have 100% positive feedback on their e-bay page.

I'd use them again but to be honest I'd order over e-mail and be very exact in what I want.

If things get worse I will name & shame!

rat_race

So I got the chain, sellotaped back into a box. This chain has 110 links though, I only want 106...*smacks head*...

Again, it is not suitable for my bike. Is it safe to grind some of the links off?

CJhaughey

rat_race wrote: »

So I got the chain, sellotaped back into a box. This chain has 110 links though, I only want 106...*smacks head*...

Again, it is not suitable for my bike. Is it safe to grind some of the links off?

Its easy to cut a chain with a punch and a 10mm socket.
You need to carefully mark out the 106 links and then punch the rivet out to leave the inner plate exposed so the master link can go through.
Undo the old master link (clip type?) and hook the new chain onto the old master link on the rear sprocket and then just roll the wheel forward and it will pull the new one around the front sprocket and back to the rear sprocket.
The master link might be tight fit through the holes in the plate and you can use a vice-grips and a 10mm nut to press it on slowly each side a little at a time, once it is all the way home(don't forget the o-rings) then you can rivet it or put the clip on.
Closed side should be facing forwards on the top of the chain.

rat_race

CJhaughey wrote: »

Its easy to cut a chain with a punch and a 10mm socket.
You need to carefully mark out the 106 links and then punch the rivet out to leave the inner plate exposed so the master link can go through.
Undo the old master link (clip type?) and hook the new chain onto the old master link on the rear sprocket and then just roll the wheel forward and it will pull the new one around the front sprocket and back to the rear sprocket.
The master link might be tight fit through the holes in the plate and you can use a vice-grips and a 10mm nut to press it on slowly each side a little at a time, once it is all the way home(don't forget the o-rings) then you can rivet it or put the clip on.
Closed side should be facing forwards on the top of the chain.

Thanks once again for the detailed post! I'm okay with all of that except afraid of breaking my chain breaker when I remove the link from the new chain...Instructions say to grind the rivets flush to the outer plate before breaking... Not sure why it calls itself a breaker then! But I suppose I'll follow its advice...

I'm being wussy about it because I only have ONE of everything...

rat_race

Oh guess what? They sent a clip connecting link instead of a rivet despite telling me it would be a rivet link...