Looking for cost of building a house in 2012/2013

Gumbo

sparks3000 wrote: »

100 euro per square ft

That won't be enough IMHO.

BryanF

tbukela wrote: »

I would be grateful for any opinions on what people would consider the areas that should be prioritized. . . I presume that we should be aspiring for a decent B BER and try to maximize insulation etc. I am also leaning towards stoves with back boiler with oil for heating and going rads rather then UFH.

For clarity the figure of 210k is for build only incl VAT, not to include any fees etc

Would you consider going back to planning and reducing the footprint, €210k for a 2300m2 house will be a huge struggle.

A QS would be best placed to work with your architect to make savings, this should happen now, pre tender.

It would be best if you discussed with your architect how the last bank payment will work and what items must be completed. For example You may find that landscaping & boundaries etc will need to be finished to comply with planning conditions before final bank payments are made.

You really should get a provisional BER carried out now. The BER will inform you of the renewables requirements, it will typically be a minimum of an A3 rating.

since your 2011 granted planning, sections of the building Regulations have become more onerous particularly part L and separately the building control regulations have added substantial costs

Total20

Hi happy new im currently in the process of building a 3000 sq foot house in waterford i opted to go with stove buffer tank solar panels and oil as opposed to ufh much cheaper option and i upped the insulation side any questions fire away ill do my best to answer them

Total20

sparks3000 wrote: »

100 euro per square ft

Currently building a 3000sq ft house any questions just ask

BryanF

Total20 wrote: »

Currently building a 3000sq ft house any questions just ask

When did you start/ put in your commencement notice? Ie Are you subject to the new building control Regs?

tbukela

Thanks for the replies.

Would you consider going back to planning and reducing the footprint, €210k for a 2300m2 house will be a huge struggle.

That would be the sensible option but unfortunately due to changing personal circumstances this is my one window to get a mortgage so we need to proceed as best we can.

A QS would be best placed to work with your architect to make savings, this should happen now, pre tender.

I have had discussions with a QS and based on his recommendations we were able to take about 70k off the estimated build price already. Like yourself he has said that a build of this size for the budget will be a struggle but he was optimistic.

You really should get a provisional BER carried out now. The BER will inform you of the renewables requirements, it will typically be a minimum of an A3 rating.

What type of drawings etc would an assessor need to carry this out? Would this give an indication of costs etc

since your 2011 granted planning, sections of the building Regulations have become more onerous particularly part L and separately the building control regulations have added substantial costs

The new regs have been budgeted for but unfortunately have just decreased the monies that had been earmarked for kitchen etc.

I'm trying to be realistic with my expectations when it comes to the tender. if it turns out that the quotes are in excess of what can be afforded then the project will have to be shelved.

I'm trying to establish what corners can be cut that won't compromise the overall build or what could be put in but not completed fully.

Total20

BryanF wrote: »

When did you start/ put in your commencement notice? Ie Are you subject to the new building control Regs?

Hi sorry im new to this my planning
Came through two weeks before the new building regulations came in i commenced soon after and not subject to new building regulations i bought my site at bank auction for 45000 its an acre and a half site it had the following work done to it by previous owners the site was cleared and levelled the foundations (i had to change them slightly for my house design)were poured and they left 3000 blocks on site plus it was back filled with stone i am currently 3 weeks to full completion of block work hoping to get back at it march weather depending i have found helpfull tips on this site so i will post full costs to me so far just keep in mind i did not pay site clearance and did not pay for the vast majority of the foundations i started building putting in the floor and on from there i will post my costs later

BryanF

Total20 wrote: »

Hi sorry im new to this my planning
Came through two weeks before the new building regulations came in i commenced soon after and not subject to new building regulations i bought my site at bank auction for 45000 its an acre and a half site it had the following work done to it by previous owners the site was cleared and levelled the foundations (i had to change them slightly for my house design)were poured and they left 3000 blocks on site plus it was back filled with stone i am currently 3 weeks to full completion of block work hoping to get back at it march weather depending i have found helpfull tips on this site so i will post full costs to me so far just keep in mind i did not pay site clearance and did not pay for the vast majority of the foundations i started building putting in the floor and on from there i will post my costs later

Just to be clear, your situation will be differnet to those starting the process now.

BryanF

tbukela wrote: »

Thanks for the replies.



That would be the sensible option but unfortunately due to changing personal circumstances this is my one window to get a mortgage so we need to proceed as best we can.



I have had discussions with a QS and based on his recommendations we were able to take about 70k off the estimated build price already. Like yourself he has said that a build of this size for the budget will be a struggle but he was optimistic.



What type of drawings etc would an assessor need to carry this out? Would this give an indication of costs etc



The new regs have been budgeted for but unfortunately have just decreased the monies that had been earmarked for kitchen etc.

I'm trying to be realistic with my expectations when it comes to the tender. if it turns out that the quotes are in excess of what can be afforded then the project will have to be shelved.

I'm trying to establish what corners can be cut that won't compromise the overall build or what could be put in but not completed fully.

Get the assigned designer to give the BER assessor the tender drawings and spec as they stand. Do this before going to tender.

Total20

BryanF wrote: »

Just to be clear, your situation will be differnet to those starting the process now.

Yes my situation is different from those starting now i will share my materials and labour costs of the actual build so far and future prices coming in the next few months

smokey20

BryanF wrote: »

Just to be clear, your situation will be differnet to those starting the process now.

Hi Bryan, is it easy to quantify how much additional costs these new regs have added to the build costs, or does it depend on house size and other such factors?

BryanF

smokey20 wrote: »

Hi Bryan, is it easy to quantify how much additional costs these new regs have added to the build costs, or does it depend on house size and other such factors?

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057335629&page=3

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057198631

smokey20

Thanks Bryan.... New Regs = Can of Worms

BryanF

smokey20 wrote: »

Thanks Bryan.... New Regs = Can of Worms

Yes. And We'll leave it there, as the other threads cover such sentiments

Total20

I have used this site a few times before my build and here are my costings to completion of roof level taking into account i bought my site with it cleared and foundations allready poured and with 3000 blocks on it and sand.
3000 for blocks- bricks- cavity closers-soaps.
Reinforced mesh 200
Digger hire 250
Floor insulation 4000 5 inch xtratherm
Steel catnics 900 for 9
Concrete sills lintels 980 delivered
Blocklayer 2500
First fix plumbing 2000
Radon barrier 1500
Floor packing labour and concrete 4950
Tressels planks 200
I have been on site labouring since the start and will be till the end.
These are my total costs to full completion of house ready for roofing.
Its not your usual type house its a storey and a half 3000sq ft with the vast majority of space on the bottom floor two storeys are a lot cheaper so consider this over a big bungalow or my kind of design i hope this helps any questions pm me if can help i will.I know its very daunting starting your self build be prepared to be on your phone a lot and for problems that pop up and they will pop up lol and go to a few different builders merchants haggle with them for the best deal possible your going to spend alot of money their are deals to be had in these current times in materials and labour. Roof quotes coming in at 13000 at the cheapest quote.window quotes cheapest i got so far was 15000 top spec double glazed and composite doors still shopping around on this if anybody has any input on window prices on similar size builds i would be gratefull if you would pm your prices specs and company you dealt with.

893bet

What kind of block layer laid 5000 ( ish? ) blocks for 2500? Did they fit lintels and cills and insulation ?

2000 for first fix plumbing ? What does that include.

Total20

893bet wrote: »

What kind of block layer laid 5000 ( ish? ) blocks for 2500? Did they fit lintels and cills and insulation ?

2000 for first fix plumbing ? What does that include.

He charged 100 a day and the working day was 8 to 6 cills and lintels to be fitted for that price fitted no insulation im pumping cavity he is an excellent chap with 30 plus years experience that solved many on site problems saving me alot of money you seem annoyed at this price what kind of prices are they charging in your area? to be honest it was what they were mostly all charging when i was looking 50 cent a block or 100 a day.
First fix plumbing included all piping in floor poly plumb and copper where needed for central heating and waste ie toilets sink shower pipes.
Have you just completed build or in the process?
Can you share your experiences?
What size was house?
Are you a trades man yourself?

893bet

Ah the first fix plumb is just the plumb work in the foundations? That makes a bit more sense.

I paid around 6000 for block laying. 2100 ish sq feet. Around 5500 blocks. Took two block layers the guts of six weeks. So how yours took one guy 5 weeks for a bigger house. My cheapest price was 5000 for block work.

Search back the thread and you will see some detailed costing from me to this stage. Recently put in windows (23 windows, two back doors, one French doors) triple glazed 0.8 u value, light oak, outside Georgion border with a lot of French openers. They were given to me at a cost price of 12000 as the owner is family. Would have been 16-17 k other wise.

893bet

No front door in yet obviously so that will be extra at later date.

Total20

893bet wrote: »

Ah the first fix plumb is just the plumb work in the foundations? That makes a bit more sense.

I paid around 6000 for block laying. 2100 ish sq feet. Around 5500 blocks. Took two block layers the guts of six weeks. So how yours took one guy 5 weeks for a bigger house. My cheapest price was 5000 for block work.

Search back the thread and you will see some detailed costing from me to this stage. Recently put in windows (23 windows, two back doors, one French doors) triple glazed 0.8 u value, light oak, outside Georgion border with a lot of French openers. They were given to me at a cost price of 12000 as the owner is family. Would have been 16-17 k other wise.

Yes first fix was just pipes in floors.not sure to be honest a good bricky would lay a couple of hundred blocks a day so two lads with a good man to tender them should have knocked out that house a bit quicker i presume we gave two long weeks in the good summer just gone and he has priced 3 weeks work to finish it.In the costings i put up here i have put in the prices i got to finish it to roof level unless hes wrong and their is more work it wouldnt be unknown of lads to come back looking for more but ill just have to see how it goes hopefully not.
Thats great i appreciate that ill check those threads your windows look very nice.the window quotes i got are a bit overpriced i think ive checked everywhere in the south east 15000 being the cheapest you were lucky nice to have contacts lol

Total20

893bet wrote: »

Ah the first fix plumb is just the plumb work in the foundations? That makes a bit more sense.

I paid around 6000 for block laying. 2100 ish sq feet. Around 5500 blocks. Took two block layers the guts of six weeks. So how yours took one guy 5 weeks for a bigger house. My cheapest price was 5000 for block work.

Search back the thread and you will see some detailed costing from me to this stage. Recently put in windows (23 windows, two back doors, one French doors) triple glazed 0.8 u value, light oak, outside Georgion border with a lot of French openers. They were given to me at a cost price of 12000 as the owner is family. Would have been 16-17 k other wise.

Looks a fine size house for 2100 very nice best of luck finishing it.

893bet

They had no labourer so would have been slower as they were taking turns mixing and stacking etc. They did exceptional work for what they were paid and how long it took. Roofer remarked that they had never seen such a small variance when fitting the wall plate. Plasterer also complemented the block work so happy enough. You are labouring for him of course so that is an extra wage for the 5 weeks bringing our prices in line I guess.

15k for the windows sounds ok. How many? Style? Spec.

A large Munster based company (you all know who I mean) quoted me 12k for their 0.8 or 0.9 window. I am not surprised so many go with them (if I was paying the 16k I should have I would have been tempted) however Constant the stories about poor after sales service, problem with hinges, seals etc. are.

Total20

893bet wrote: »

They had no labourer so would have been slower as they were taking turns mixing and stacking etc. They did exceptional work for what they were paid and how long it took. Roofer remarked that they had never seen such a small variance when fitting the wall plate. Plasterer also complemented the block work so happy enough. You are labouring for him of course so that is an extra wage for the 5 weeks bringing our prices in line I guess.

15k for the windows sounds ok. How many? Style? Spec.

A large Munster based company (you all know who I mean) quoted me 12k for their 0.8 or 0.9 window. I am not surprised so many go with them (if I was paying the 16k I should have I would have been tempted) however Constant the stories about poor after sales service, problem with hinges, seals etc. are.

I think i might know where the difference might be.you are including the block laid on foundation i presume im not the blocklayer i have worked for the chap that did my floor and he paid him i kept him on after with me so im not including paying him or the time it took to lay those blocks it was included in the price of the floor.The widows are double glazed 1.1 u value 18 in total dont have exact sizes with me double composite front doors and a back door french patio doors and a 3 metre lift and slide back door also.The most reputable company in my area quoted 18000 the next was 15000.As youve stated i dont want to be having problems down the line with locks and hinges i have seen first hand what that looks like my friends windows have warped the handles are falling off and they paid 19000 plus for theirs in the good times and as well for the large munster based window company we all know they never even bothered getting back to me very professional.

tbukela

893bet & Total20 - really interesting reading in your last few posts. What type of BER rating are ye aiming for with those spec windows etc?
What type of heating etc are ye putting in?

Total20

tbukela wrote: »

893bet & Total20 - really interesting reading in your last few posts. What type of BER rating are ye aiming for with those spec windows etc?
What type of heating etc are ye putting in?

Hi the heating system im putting in is oil wood burner solar panels and buffer tank as for ber im not sure yet to be honest im going for an xtratherm insulated slab on the walls we didnt go with traditional insulation in the cavity we are pumping the cavity i hope to achieve as high as possible but it all comes down to money in the end ill have to see how everything else pans out.

tbukela

Hi the heating system im putting in is oil wood burner solar panels and buffer tank as for ber im not sure yet to be honest im going for an xtratherm insulated slab on the walls we didnt go with traditional insulation in the cavity we are pumping the cavity i hope to achieve as high as possible but it all comes down to money in the end ill have to see how everything else pans out.

Did you think about any alternative heating types etc? Had presumed I would go Oil/Wood but now considering Gas as an alternative.

What width cavity is it? Would it be normal to pump as well as have the insulated slabs?

Total20

tbukela wrote: »

Did you think about any alternative heating types etc? Had presumed I would go Oil/Wood but now considering Gas as an alternative.

What width cavity is it? Would it be normal to pump as well as have the insulated slabs?

I had thought about ufh but i heard from people that have them they are costly to run and if they break down its a lot of trouble i dont want those problems.yes thought about gas why not it could be an option as opposed to oil id have to find out more about it think they can bury the gas tanks now so they wont be an eye sore in your garden.Cavity is 110 no blocklayer i dont care how good they are will fit the insulation perfect theirs allways going to be room for air to move around thus affecting your air tightness.It defeats the purpose of having triple glazed windows and all the the other money you you can spend on different insulated products if your still losing heat out through you walls pump the walls its the only way to ensure this happens.As for insulated slabs its purely up to yourself im spending the money on them i think their worth it im only doing the perimeter walls with them allow the heat to circulate inside the house but stop it from getting out.As for windows i think good double glazed are enough i was originally thinking triple but i read an article on the seai website about differences between windows and it made my mind up to go for double check out their findings very interesting

893bet

tbukela wrote: »

893bet & Total20 - really interesting reading in your last few posts. What type of BER rating are ye aiming for with those spec windows etc?
What type of heating etc are ye putting in?

A3. Oil fired rad heating and 2 x wood/multi stove and 3 solar plates.

Handsandtools

893bet wrote: »

A3. Oil fired rad heating and 2 x wood/multi stove and 3 solar plates.

What u-value You have on walls and how much it cost to pump insulation?
I believe that chap didn't pay taxes and You didn't cover his insurance, prsi, usc, holiday pay, tools etc., from that 100e a day ?

893bet

Handsandtools wrote: »

What u-value You have on walls and how much it cost to pump insulation?

Cant remember. 150mm cavity.

Not pumped yet so not idea of cost. Have budgeted 2-2.5K.

Handsandtools wrote: »

I believe that chap didn't pay taxes and You didn't cover his insurance, prsi, usc, holiday pay, tools etc., from that 100e a day ?

I guess the government paid for those.