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Solar Panel Installation

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Comments

  • #102
    John T Carroll
    Closed Accounts Posts: 757 ✭✭✭John T Carroll


    bungo63 wrote: »
    John, thank you. The controller in question is a DeltaSol BS/2. I think is a re-badged (for Joule) version of a Resol controller.
    http://www.resol.de/Produktdokumente/48005952_DeltaSol_BS2_V2.monen.pdf

    The evacuated tubes are Joule Acapella. See page 57 of http://www.jouleuk.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Cyclone-Stainless-Solar-Heat-Pump-Brochure-2016.pdf for specifications
    I have two twenty tube racks feeding a 300L Cylinder.
    My roof is approximately 185 degs south facing.

    As you probably have gathered from reading my posts my main interest is in gathering a accurate Heat Measurement Quantity, in theory this is quite easily achieved as all that is needed is the Collector Temperatue, the Collector Return Temperature and the Collector Flowrate, the Solar Controller then does a simple calculation and displays both the daily output and the accumulated total. The first two requirements are easily and accurately met. The big problem is the flowrate, if you are prepared to install a flowmeter (at extra cost) then there shouldnt be any problem. In a system with fixed circulating pump speed you simply manually insert the flowrate from observing the flowrate from the flow tube and you can then validate your actual heat quantity from taking cylinder temperature measurements (see my very first post) and doing some fairly basic calcs, you then adjust the inputted flowrate to reflect this and you will get a pretty accurate heat quantity measurement, to within + or - 5% in my opinion and based on my system.. Now because it is claimed that you can achieve 10% to 20% greater output by using variable speed control of the solar circ pump then most controllers now have this facility ( so too has yours) then the inputted flowrate becomes a nonsense because the pump speed and flowrate are changing periodically, some controllers have a method of getting over this but yours hasnt from my reading of the manual but I may still be able to do something to address this if you dont decide to install a flowmeter.

    If you have any info on the solar circ pump, please forward it to me.

    I sincerely hope you are fitting a heat dump to your system as it will avoid alot of grief later on in (solar) life.

    "championc" who is a contributor to these posts has a link which displays some fabulous information, I will send on the Link immediately.

    https://personal.xively.com/feeds/1928576781


  • #103
    bungo63
    Registered Users Posts: 29 ✭bungo63


    Hi John, I appreciate the detail in your responses. Regarding the pump, as fate would have it we unpacked it today. It's made by WILO (model Yonos PARARS 15/6 RKA FS 130 122 - phew!) and its the fully automatic variant that does not have any knobs. Instead there is a PWM cable, which as you quite rightly noted will connect back to the controller.

    With regards to heat dumps, we are not installing one at present although in discussions with my plumber he did explain how he could install one easily enough by recycling a large towel rail that we have just replaced in our bathroom (this would be installed in our loft). I will review the discussions regarding heat dumps.


  • #104
    John T Carroll
    Closed Accounts Posts: 757 ✭✭✭John T Carroll


    bungo63 wrote: »
    With regards to heat dumps, we are not installing one at present although in discussions with my plumber he did explain how he could install one easily enough by recycling a large towel rail that we have just replaced in our bathroom (this would be installed in our loft). I will review the discussions regarding heat dumps.

    You would need a very large towel rail as 40 E.tubes will generate serious heat on a sunny summer day, up to 3 Kw, you would need to install a 3 Kw rad somewhere or at the very minimum a 2 Kw rad., as well as that your proposed controller I think doesnt support a heat dump so you would have to condider installing a controller that does support it as well as a solar rated 3 way diverter valve. If you live in a soft water area?? then the existing controller can do a bit of fancy footwork if the "collector cooling" option is enabled, it will allow the cylinder contents to rise to a max of 95C irrespective of what the max cylinder temperature set point is. If the max cylinder temperature set point was 60C, then 300 Litres of water will absorb over 12 Kwh in rising to 95C which is alot of heat and unless you are on holidays isnt a bad option I suppose if the other option of cylinder cooling (I think its called) is selected as well, at night then when the collector temperature falls a few degrees below the cylinder temperature, the circ pump is switched on/off until the cylinder temperature falls to 60C again. So I hope you are living in a soft water area but even if you are not it might not scale up the coil too much under those relatively rare occasions that its required.


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