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PHPP / BER or something different ?

  • 09-08-2012 11:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 32


    Hi,

    I have a home 150 sqm bog standard bungalow. I am retrofitting in stages. Windows, doors & Attic done so far.

    Things I need to do is change the water tank, old copper type and rusted during the idle time before we moved in. As part of this change I was originally thinking of going with solar panels, I am now leaning towards air to water. The house is at an age where I should consider the radiator pipe work so could do this and update radiators at the same time.

    I have read lots of articles and posts etc. so know enough to I don't know enough. So my question is what or who do I need to look for assistance that can give unbiased next phase advise?

    Oh, I am in the South East if anyone has any recommendations


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 32 scub_a


    nothing? Am I in the correct thread for a response?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    I would recomend you a find an Architectural Technician who is at least trained to use DEAP or better yet a registered BER assessor. Using the DEAP as a guidance tool s/he could take the DEAP analysis and work through the various cost/benefit options for you. Start with the SEAI register of assessors and take it from there.

    I could not honestly recommend a PHPP analysis ( and I am a Certified PH designer ) unless you are prepared to undertake a significant once off refurbishment . DEAP is the ideal tool for a piecemeal and staggered series of works.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Also , depending on what exactly your plans are for works it may be a good idea to have the same guy/girl prepare a CAD set of layouts to prepare works documents.

    For instance if you had the layouts loaded up with power and lighting , very usefull to send to 3 / 4 electricians for pricing , that way all are pricing the same thing exactly.

    Same principle for replacement windows , dry lining / external insulation , new heating layout - whatever.

    If you find the right person you could "retain" them over time to alter / edit the drawings depending on what you have in mind at a given time .

    I hope that helps/ makes sense .


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 scub_a


    Hi Thanks for that, it has given me some thought direction. I was a little worried about the BER route as we got the results/report of it from the vendor when we bought the house and to be honest a lot of it seemed like common sense. However, I guess if the Architectural Technician is talking to me directly they could scope out my potential plans as a factor...

    But, do I understand though from your response, the Architectural Technician wouldn't be the person that provides 'new heating layout'?


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 scub_a


    I should have clarified is my assumption here correct

    The Architectural Technician defines the best type of heating system for my house.

    Then I get an expert in that type to design the layout.

    I was just thinking how simple an open fire seems, but then I relaised the down draught in the living room isn't right so even the simple things can go wrong..............


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    An Architectural Technician can provide layout plans locating the boiler , cylinder , tanks , rads (or UFH loops) timers , stats , etc. Then 3 / 4 plumbers can price off those layouts. ( Using DEAP s/he can certainly size the boiler )

    But you are correct to say that Architectural Technicians are not usually trained to design heating as such and most would not be trained to state that pump A or valve A is better then pump B or valve B.

    But an experienced AT would be capable of sending out layouts and specifications to plumbers , and importantly , sorting out from tenders back who to run with.

    Again I hope this make sense if not post again :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 scub_a


    Ah OK I think it is starting to become clearer.

    I think my initial confusion was when I was looking into 'air to water' all of the reference sites were installed by mechanical engineering companies, so I wasn't quite sure who I needed.

    And even worse I wasn't fully sure air to water was the way to go, so even a little more confused.

    As for the best pump/valve....I did speak to a number of plumbers initially when I was looking to do the solar water heating and I was always quoted for the same manufacturer. I wasn't told about possibly including the secondary tank thing (can't think of the name this morning) into the design of it. And none seemed to know how the market was evolving different brands or systems and implications of them.

    This manufacturer wasn't high on my wish list of products for solar to be installed, but that is by the by. But speaking to them didn't leave me too confident on advice on changing my whole heating system. Especially, when you read some of the scare stories of electricity bills jumping into the 000's a billing period.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Two words - FABRIC FIRST.

    Prioritise money on insulation and airtightness. Reduce your demand for all the gizmos.


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 scub_a


    I totally agree and would have normally looked at the exterior insullation as the next step.

    However,
    I do need to change the hot water tank and the new types won't fit in the current location of the tank and probably won't fit directly in the attic space or at least not easily.

    I also need to change the oil boiler to a more efficient one.

    So i'm already a few thousand out just to get the existing setup to a functional level. Oil isn't going to get cheaper, so my belief is to bite the bullet now and upgrade those two? Rather than spending money again later.

    Speaking to the builder that was doing some work on the house, he recommended redoing the heating pipe work now as well if I was going to do any rooting in the house, its over 20 years old.

    As part of this, I would add 50mm insulation board to the ceiling as the rooms would have to vacated to allow chasing the floors. I have already the joists above it filled with the loose insulation to the top of the joist and then a 300mm layer over that. I have all triple glaxed windows and doors installed this year.

    I'd also carpet the floors at this point too (currently timber) as I couldn't justify lifting the concrete to try and insulate below it.

    I have two open fireplaces that need to be considered into this somehow, one also has a back boiler which has been handy.

    So I think I am fairly clued in as to what needs to happen. Where I am just unsure is the commitment to a replacement heating system type that will do what I want and give me the option to add solar later into it. As getting it wrong would be too costly to fix.


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