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Right, how the flip do you post process a colour negative scan?

  • 15-08-2012 10:42pm
    #1
    AnCatDubh
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,393 ✭✭✭


    em., as it says in the title.

    google don't help terribly much or maybe I'm not accurate enough in what I'm looking for.

    Followed this, but meh, doesn't appear terribly clear results on my screen.

    Target processing environment is the gimp, but i'll convert any tutorial if its clear enough.

    Anyone, got a decent link to a howto.

    Thanks.

    (it's not life or death situation - just something to occupy me for a while :))


Comments

  • #2
    amdgilmore
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 545 ✭✭✭amdgilmore


    Trial and error colour-tweaking seems to be the consensus, unfortunately.

    Maybe you could start off with a lab-scanned photo (which would be more or less 'correct' in colour), then put it side by side on your monitor with the negative scan and tweak the latter to match it.

    Then save the RGB profile and use it on the next negative you want to scan.

    This guy should be able to help:

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=79782762&postcount=17

    He seems to know a lot about it and he offered me a base-line RGB profile when I asked about it.


  • #3
    pete4130
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,944 ✭✭✭pete4130


    It depends on how well its scanned and what its scanned through. I use a V500 for my negs. I just open the TIF files, zoom to 200% and painstakingly clean the dust/scratches. Then all I do is some mild level and curves to get the contrast back and that it done.


  • #4
    DaireQuinlan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,715 ✭✭✭DaireQuinlan


    It's a bit of a black art all right. I use vuescan as my scanning software, it allows you to scan a blank section of film to set the colour of the orange/magenta mask and compensate for it while doing the actual scan. It's different on every roll, depends on film brand/type and on processing (it should probably be consistent across film type but as I've said before my processing tends to be a little ... haphazard ... )

    I scan to 16bit tiffs from vuescan, converted to positive with the orange mask removed and the ICE dust pass done but no other colour adjustments. This typically yields a dull low contrast image which I then level and balance in photoshop. That bit typically takes the longest, and in some cases I just can't get it right ...

    7761285454_3ec569a4ea.jpg

    I have more success with some films than others. Ektar I've always found a beut to scan, but portra 400 for example I've never quite got completely to my satisfaction. Less so in 35mm than 120 as well curiously enough.


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