Today I did something to my bike thread...

letape

Mec-a-nic wrote: »

'Today' was an easy job - final assembly of vintage titanium cassette, tube and tyre onto a newly built old rim for the retro MTB rebuild project...



(Should I have lined up the valve with the brand name?...)

Any chance of a few pictures when the build is complete?

cdaly_

Mec-a-nic wrote: »

(Should I have lined up the valve with the brand name?...)

You don't have to but it makes it easier to find the valve.

cython

cdaly_ wrote: »

You don't have to but it makes it easier to find the valve.

Ahem :pac:

Taxuser1

Added to race-bike (next year)

Campag Bora Ultra Two with Continental Sprinter tubs
Garmin Out Front Mount & Speed Sensor
Put up saddle post, pushed back saddle, Moved right cleats - knee's been killing me!

One more job to do - to take the stem down 30mm by removing the 3D headset. uber-aero :-)

Mec-a-nic

cdaly_ wrote: »

You don't have to but it makes it easier to find the valve.

cython wrote: »

Ahem :pac:

I was being sarcastic as I assumed there was something in The Rules about this, but damn, that actually makes useful sense.

'Today' I sealed the bottom bracket to prevent crud from the last time, fitted the new BB, cranks and derailleur. Now I'm just admiring the pretty 1990s XT alloy before I start fitting cables.

Weepsie

I (Not I) changed my Standard Ultegra crankset for a mid compact 52/36 105 that I bought from Borderfox here. *

It's on my steel tourer/commuter which is a heavy beast so should make life a little easier. The Ultegra is much more aesthetically pleasing to me, but it's older so shouldn't be much performance difference (I hope), but I'll keep it for another bike I think.

* Full disclosure, The Spokesman did it for me, and again couldn't recommended him highly enough.

rollingscone

Ah dun expuriments

OldBean

rollingscone wrote: »

Ah dun expuriments

It has your avg. speed up that little bit, if you weren't pushing for it?

(According to Strava!)

Comfy?

brownian

Got a Brooks Cambium Carved saddle to replace my B17 - the nose tore right off the B17; there's a lesson there about getting leather saddles wet, and using proofide. A quick spin around the garden tells me that tales of instant comfort are just tales...but will take for a spin at the weekend, and see if improves. If not, I have a spare B17 that I got from Rose (for 85 euro, which is a savage price), and I'll break that in, and take better care, I promise.

The cambium, incidentally, came from charliethebikemonger, because he was prepared to send me a saddle, ride it for a week or two, and send it back for a full refund if I didn't like it. I hope I do learn to like it, as it looks a lot cooler on the Evo 6 than the big leather B17 yoke.

It being winter, I also fitted a medium-size ortlieb saddle bag under the new saddle. This greatly reduces the camel-humps of waterproof jacket, arm-warmers, leg-warmers, sealskinz cap, buff.... that I drag around on winter spins.

rollingscone

OldBean wrote: »

It has your avg. speed up that little bit, if you weren't pushing for it?

(According to Strava!)

Comfy?

Jury's still out.

Eh it was 0.01 kph faster than my GDBR average...

iwillhtfu

Built up the winter bike. Probably should've put a bit more thought into the bar tape white is all I had to hand. The specialised toupe is unbelievably comfortable though.

brownian

Took the cambium saddle for a proper spin today over the gap and back. First 2 mins it's hard. Next two hours it's really quite comfortable. Last half hour or so it's less so...but then this is my first spin with any climbing , much, for some time.

Tales of excessive stickiness seem to be just tales. Less slippy than a well used b17 but perfectly fine.

It's early days yet but I certainly don't hate it at first ride. Give it another whirl tomorrow.

Mec-a-nic

'Today' I cabled up the derailleurs and fitted the IG chain (may need to be shortened). I fitted v-brakes with "Travel Agents" to enable the use of the standard canti levers. A 27.0 mm seatpost fitted fine into the slightly oval 27.2mm downtube as the clamp has enough leeway. Temporary pedals and stem complete the setup to allow testing and to reacclimatise after more than a decade away from this bike. Next stage is to rebuild an old RockShox with new air valve and fit onto this.



Previously #636, #631, #587

Idleater

Mec-a-nic wrote: »

reacclimatise after more than a decade away from this bike.

Is that a Girvin Flexstem?

I meant to say before, I spent a summer holiday's part time income on a set of those XT cranks. They went missing during a repair. My project bike is my 1996 Haro Escape so looking with interest how you are getting on.

Mec-a-nic

Idleater wrote: »

Is that a Girvin Flexstem?

I know this is a retro project, but I would draw the line at putting that on any bike Nope, the stem is just an ugly, adjustable one from the bottom of the spares box. Once I figure out the riding position, I'll probably replace it with a fixed one of the right size.

As for the cranks, I have the receipt - they're not yours! I couldn't even afford to save for them back then. This frame is an Irish made prototype so there's no 'standard' equipment but I'm trying to fit components from the era.

Bonus pic - how it ran last century - with second hand parts worn out by a 20mile/day commute:

rollingscone

Winter is coming!



Any recommendations for full mudguards?

OldBean

These?

Alek

50mm should squeeze in - they look deeeaaadly

The only problem I can see is that there is no safety release for the front mudguard, and CdF has a bit of toe overlap... I've managed to undo the front one a few times by backpedalling while waiting at the lights.

brownian

brownian wrote: »

Took the cambium saddle for a proper spin today over the gap and back. First 2 mins it's hard. Next two hours it's really quite comfortable. Last half hour or so it's less so...but then this is my first spin with any climbing , much, for some time.

Tales of excessive stickiness seem to be just tales. Less slippy than a well used b17 but perfectly fine.

It's early days yet but I certainly don't hate it at first ride. Give it another whirl tomorrow.

OK, I took the new C17 for another spin at the weekend. Again, it's not as cushy as the B17, but it's acceptably comfortable. No sore spots on the sit-bones afterwards (tho it was only a quick 55km around Wicklow). It's slightly better for no-hands cycling than the B17, as it's less slippy. You have to lift yourself a little when you want to move back and forth; otherwise shorts may just fold up a bit, under you.

Will I send it back to Charlie? No
Is it as comfortable as the leather B17? No, certainly not yet.
Do I hope it will become comfier over time? Yes, but that's optimism, of course.
Does it look nicer on the Super Six than the leather B17? Yes, of course.
Will I take it to Corsica next year for a week of hard work, or will I take the B17? Time will tell. Hopefully.

OldBean

Alek wrote: »

50mm should squeeze in - they look deeeaaadly

The only problem I can see is that there is no safety release for the front mudguard, and CdF has a bit of toe overlap... I've managed to undo the front one a few times by backpedalling while waiting at the lights.

I've similar on the VO and there's a tiny bit of overlap too, never had much of a problem as they're held in by tension as much as the actual screws and settings. I've gotten used to the added overlap with them on and don't even think about it anymore.

You can drill in a nice leather mudflap too, for extra dry feet and shinier cranksets

Downsides are the extra little bit of weight, and if not given a tightening once every 6 months, they get a pretty severe rattle. But that only takes 5/10 minutes tops. I did it myself this morning.

rollingscone

Just waiting for C02 and a competent adult...

rollingscone

Winter is coming V2.0


Sliiinky

ford2600

rollingscone wrote: »

Sliiinky

https://www.ridepdw.com/goods/fenders/full-metal-fenders-road

The man who knows all on bikes reccommended these to me. Haven't bought them though. If you wouldn't mind buying, reviewing with detailed installation video(@Alex can help) that'd be great...:D

Borderfox

Finally stumped up and bought and installed a 105 5800 groupset, left the Ultegra 6800 rd on but everything else changed.

Something very satisfying about putting new cables and outers on

cython

Had to fit a new rear tyre this morning after the sidewall split/peeled a bit and let in something to cause a puncture after setting off for work. Thankfully this happened 200m from the house, and I'd a spare (of the same tyre as it happens) under the stairs. Guess 6800km out of a rear tyre's ok though, and the only punctures before this were pinches or dodgy rim tape

Cee-Jay-Cee

Borderfox wrote: »

Finally stumped up and bought and installed a 105 5800 groupset, left the Ultegra 6800 rd on but everything else changed.

Something very satisfying about putting new cables and outers on

So you downgraded a 6800 groupset to 5800 but left the 6800 RD ????

Borderfox

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

So you downgraded a 6800 groupset to 5800 but left the 6800 RD ????

I had 105 5700 10 speed on it and upgraded the rear derailleur to ultegra and changed all the other components to 105 5800

Sorry if this is the wrong place for this, but looking for help putting cleats on shoes for the first time and don't want to start a new thread for it.

I got the spd pedals onto the bike no problem, but I can't see how the cleats attach to the underside of the sole at all. The yellow part does not fit flush with the sole at all andand the instructions are abysmal altogether. The shoes are spd shoes, so compatibility shouldn't be an issue. Any thoughts?

oconnpad

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You've the wrong shoes for that pedal or the wrong pedal for that shoe if you get my drift.

Pedal are SPD-SL but shoes are SPD

Fcuk it anyway, you're right. I thought they were the same style.