Today I did something to my bike thread...

cletus

De Bhál wrote: »

Fitted a set of SKS bluemel mudguards to my hybrid over the weekend. It nearly drove me insane. A drill and a angle grinder came into play during the fitting. Never again.

Now they're rubbing...

Hope the angle grinder wasn't for the frame

De Bhál

cletus wrote: »

Hope the angle grinder wasn't for the frame

No the drill was used on the bike though

cletus

De Bhál wrote: »

No the drill was used on the bike though

What were you drilling, out of curiosity

De Bhál

cletus wrote: »

What were you drilling, out of curiosity

Brake bridge, there was no hole in it.

saccades

cletus wrote: »

I have no idea what I'm going to do with it, to be honest, so would be open to any and all suggestions. What I do know is that I'm not tied to the idea of a faithful restoration, so I'd be happy with, say, the short flat handlebars you see on commuter or courier bikes, by way of example

Pub bike.

cletus

saccades wrote: »

Pub bike.

I know what I'll use it for all right, but question is how I'll refurb it.

Leaning towards a powder coat and new decals at the moment

Pinch Flat

My Btwin Triban beater has had a bit of tlc lately.

New front gatorskin
New set of shimano RS100s
New 9 speed chain and cassette
New front and rear brake pads

Going like a dream on the commute these days

Some love for the Storck as well

New 11 speed ultegra chain
New ultegra front and rear brake pads.

saccades

cletus wrote: »

I know what I'll use it for all right, but question is how I'll refurb it.

Leaning towards a powder coat and new decals at the moment

If you powder coat and decals (fella on retrobike is ace at repro), the rest especially those awesome disc covers are going to look tatty and you'll have to upgrade/restore everything.

That gets expensive and then its not really a pub bike.

Give it a wash, treat the frame with a rust passivation treatment of some kind and then see what's salvageable from the drive chain.

26" tyres are cheap and new gear n brake cables are rock all.

Have a think about the bb. It might be impossible to remove now, does that matter for a pub bike.

There is a restoring an old bike thread on the first couple of pages somewhere. Retrobike is an ace source of stuff. Which reminds me, i forgot to complete a deal over there.

cletus

saccades wrote: »

If you powder coat and decals (fella on retrobike is ace at repro), the rest especially those awesome disc covers are going to look tatty and you'll have to upgrade/restore everything.

That gets expensive and then its not really a pub bike.

Give it a wash, treat the frame with a rust passivation treatment of some kind and then see what's salvageable from the drive chain.

26" tyres are cheap and new gear n brake cables are rock all.

Have a think about the bb. It might be impossible to remove now, does that matter for a pub bike.

There is a restoring an old bike thread on the first couple of pages somewhere. Retrobike is an ace source of stuff. Which reminds me, i forgot to complete a deal over there.

Saw the restoration on retrobikes, it's where I got the powder coat idea.

To be honest, the picture I took doesn't do justice to how bat the paint etc is. I'll take a couple more tomorrow and throw them up. I'll need new wheels as well, and a new saddle, and I'd like to change the handlebar.

I've a feeling the brake levers and gear levers are goosed too, but I won't really know till I start stripping it down

saccades

It depends on the value to you.

The 90s kona cost 80 quid to get working, which includes upgrade to xt/stc-rx but left the paintwork. Btw, there is a bag of bog standard 7spd bits you can have for postage.

Updating the prototype ebb frame for the 2nd time cost 750, but pretty much made it a contemporary bike at the time (again).

For a pub bike tatty is good but as a memory to your uncle you know the value.

As a word to the wise, an effective way to reduce powder coat costs is get it done with a batch of other stuff that are being sprayed in a colour u like as set up for a single colour costs.

cletus

saccades wrote: »

It depends on the value to you.

The 90s kona cost 80 quid to get working, which includes upgrade to xt/stc-rx but left the paintwork. Btw, there is a bag of bog standard 7spd bits you can have for postage.

Updating the prototype ebb frame for the 2nd time cost 750, but pretty much made it a contemporary bike at the time (again).

For a pub bike tatty is good but as a memory to your uncle you know the value.

As a word to the wise, an effective way to reduce powder coat costs is get it done with a batch of other stuff that are being sprayed in a colour u like as set up for a single colour costs.

The bike is worth nothing in monetary value, but id have no problem sinking a few quid into it, given its provenance.

It wont be a pub bike, more likely a bike to go cycling around with my two boys, both of whom told me its “the coolest bike they've ever seen”. So it would be nice to think that if i could restore to the best of my abilities, one or the other of them might wish to take it when they’re older.

Thanks for the offer of the 7 speed stuff, may take you up on that. It’s currently a 6 speed, but the wheels are completely shagged, so depends what I can find to replace them

Cee-Jay-Cee

Spent last night stripping a full 6800 groupset of my good bike in order to fit R8050 Di2 groupset....Yeah Electric Baby!!!

Peterx

I stripped and plastidip coated a kiddie bike there, a passed on gift from a friend. It was purple, now it's blue. A very important distinction to a 4 year old it would appear.

Lovely bike, Specialized Hotrock, single speed, cane creek bearings, aluminium frame, V-brake with kiddie sized brake lever. The child cycles well on it

The plastidip is mad stuff, sprays on from an aerosol can and builds up a layer of rubber.

I'm not sure it will be sturdy enough for a kids bike and you can get a clearcoat lacquer to toughen it up.

Apparently you can peel it off so if/when we pass it on it could in theory be purple again

triggermortis

Currently in the process of sorting out my commuter bike as the free hub has given up.
Took Tannus tyres off old wheels and fitted Durano Plus, new brake pads and gear cables in progress now.
Tough finding time to do it while on late shifts, plus my garden working area has been flooded most of the last week and there’s not much light on the shed... I keep finding more worn stuff as I go along so it might be time for a new bike...

saccades

triggermortis wrote: »

Currently in the process of sorting out my commuter bike as the free hub has given up.
Took Tannus tyres off old wheels and fitted Durano Plus, new brake pads and gear cables in progress now.
Tough finding time to do it while on late shifts, plus my garden working area has been flooded most of the last week and there’s not much light on the shed... I keep finding more worn stuff as I go along so it might be time for a new bike...

That is man maths at its finest!

Do it!

triggermortis

saccades wrote: »

That is man maths at its finest!

Do it!

I’ve picked one out, just got to work put the funding

Alanstrainor

After all the rain last week I had a go at cleaning, degreasing and oiling everything last night. Definitely a job for the day time, I felt like a right fool outside the garage washing all the muck off the wheels and frame last night. But it was in such a state I couldn't leave it. Degreased the chain twice to get it as clean as possible, before oiling it up. I noticed my gear cable to the rear derailleur is frayed... so need to google that job now.

cletus

Alanstrainor wrote: »

After all the rain last week I had a go at cleaning, degreasing and oiling everything last night. Definitely a job for the day time, I felt like a right fool outside the garage washing all the muck off the wheels and frame last night. But it was in such a state I couldn't leave it. Degreased the chain twice to get it as clean as possible, before oiling it up. I noticed my gear cable to the rear derailleur is frayed... so need to google that job now.

Is it just the piece of cable after the pinch bolt on the derailleur that's frayed?

If so, you could just trim off the end and press on one of the little cable ends, pretty sure you'll get one for cents in an decent bike shop

magicbastarder

Alanstrainor wrote: »

Degreased the chain twice to get it as clean as possible

i've been known once or twice, if a chain is that dirty, to use the likes of WD40 as a solvent to dilute the crud first before degreasing, so it can cut through it much faster. though you would obviously need a decent lube to replace what's washed away, once it dries. i used muc off wet.

Alanstrainor

cletus wrote: »

Is it just the piece of cable after the pinch bolt on the derailleur that's frayed?

If so, you could just trim off the end and press on one of the little cable ends, pretty sure you'll get one for cents in an decent bike shop

Thanks for the advice, but unfortunately it's the section of cable that runs along the chainstay to the derailleur. So not ideal obviously. (At least I think my terminology is correct here!)

magicbastarder wrote: »

i've been known once or twice, if a chain is that dirty, to use the likes of WD40 as a solvent to dilute the crud first before degreasing, so it can cut through it much faster. though you would obviously need a decent lube to replace what's washed away, once it dries. i used muc off wet.

Cheers, I'm going to give it another look this evening and see. It looks/feels decent now, but there might be a bit more work to do.

magicbastarder

or - if you want to go nuclear on it - just take the chain off and drop it into some white spirits. this will leave the chain bone dry of lube though.

cletus

So, had a few minutes to spare this evening and thought I'd get a start on stripping the frame. Plenty of rust on the fasteners, so had to fight with it from the beginning. The seat post looks to be aluminium, and the frame is steel, so I have a feeling it's going to be a right baxtard



Gave one of the discs a cursory clean, and I think they will turn out nicely

cletus

Managed to get back to the bike teardown. The quill stem did not want to move, and I was having visions on hacksawing it out of the fork



Luckily enough, judicious use of a bench vice and a piece of 4x2 got it moving (having previously filled the bottom of the steerer tube with WD-40)



While I was at the work bench, I gave the seat post a shot, and out it came.



Quill out, and I came to the spring loaded retention ring I had read about on retrobikes.

cletus

All that's left now is to take off the cranks and take out the bottom bracket, but I'm currently awaiting a bearing pullers before attempting that.

brownian

Took the bike out yesterday for a short spin, following similar the day before. The eTap rear derailleur was dead. Not battery dead, but dead dead. No response from 'function' button. No response to new battery....Internet wisdom says this is a known issue, and SRAM have good customer support.

Great, except I'm not at home for the next few weeks (working overseas) and have no bike to ride.

So, down to the LBS here, picked up 105 shifters, FD, RD. Had fun threading cables (frame is good for all cabling options, but set up for eTap. Lacking cable stops, looks like I"m going to need to make some from sugru, if I can't get them from Cervelo....

It took a few hours, but I'm back in business, now riding fully-mech for the first time in years. Even with 'only' 105, it's pretty good. Not as easy easy as eTap, but does the job!

Will reverse the process, when SRAM send me a new RD, all the same.

cdaly_

^^^

I like my mechanical bar-end shifters...

magicbastarder

i'm getting kinda tired of having to wash bikes.
but anyway, on friday, i tried something for the second time, seemed to work OK the first time - took my chain off and dropped it into a container of white spirits (which only had a cm or two of white spirits left), and agitated it a bit and let it soak for a while. this was after several spins on the bike on mucky roads, and it certainly did a good job of removing muck; you could barely see the chain in the liquid, it got so murky, and there was what looked like a bit of sand in the bottom of the container after. took out the chain, wiped it down and hung it up to dry.
when i got it back on the bike, i oiled it with muc off wet lube - which i'm not usually that much of a fan of, but it seems like the gloopy sort of lube it'd be good to have deep in the chain. bike seems happy and chain seems quiet after that.

i'm half tempted to try the deep clean on the chain on another bike, but to try the wax method instead of lube.

Cee-Jay-Cee

I do this regularly but use petrol, it does a great job cleaning a chain.

magicbastarder

i do have old petrol waiting in the wings for when the leftover white spirits run out.

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

i do have old petrol waiting in the wings for when the leftover white spirits run out.

You can reuse either just run it through a cloth when moving from one container to another.