Today I did something to my bike thread...

magicbastarder

TychoCaine wrote: »

You won't. KMC are far better chains at any price point.

this actually points to them being the worst, quite visibly so - the *best* of the three KMC chains tested came fourth *worst* of the 20 chains tested.



https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-chain-durability-and-efficiency-tested/

jimm

cletus wrote: »

Bonus points (in whatever imaginary game it is I'm playing this morning) for the first person to identify the parts below

2nd from left: Split Crown Race?
Furthest right: Seat post shim?

smacl

New 11sp chain on the bike this morning. Could not get the effing quicklink to close so ended up using the old one. Anyone know a decent way of doing this. Standinfg and stamping on the pedals didn't work so was flummoxed.

magicbastarder

do you have a chain pliers?

gn3dr

smacl wrote: »

New 11sp chain on the bike this morning. Could not get the effing quicklink to close so ended up using the old one. Anyone know a decent way of doing this. Standinfg and stamping on the pedals didn't work so was flummoxed.

Flex the chainso that the quicklink is at the top (i.e quick link horizontal and chain hanging down vertical on both sides of it) then squeeze with a water pump pliers

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

do you have a chain pliers?

If you've ever bought one of those cheap tool kits you'll have one of these and may have always wondered what it does

smacl

magicbastarder wrote: »

do you have a chain pliers?

Have an older park tools chain pliers but unfortunately for opening only. Must get the newer one that also works for closing. Was never an issue for 10sp and only seems problematic for me on the 11sp Sram quick links.

cletus

smacl wrote: »

Have an older park tools chain pliers but unfortunately for opening only. Must get the newer one that also works for closing. Was never an issue for 10sp and only seems problematic for me on the 11sp Sram quick links.

Will the pliers you have not close the link as well? I have the pliers iwillhtfu linked to, and all I do is pull them apart to close the link

If you're anywhere close to Naas, you can have a loan of my ones

cletus

jimm wrote: »

2nd from left: Split Crown Race?
Furthest right: Seat post shim?

Yes, to the first, no to the second, it's actually a steering post shim

smacl

cletus wrote: »

Will the pliers you have not close the link as well? I have the pliers iwillhtfu linked to, and all I do is pull them apart to close the link

If you're anywhere close to Naas, you can have a loan of my ones

Thanks for the offer but out in Ballyboden here. I currently have these



and just ordered these which will hopefully arrive next week. Put an old 10sp link in until then which should be fine until then. I usually leave a 10sp link in my saddle bag in case of road side mechanical as they just drop in. Can cause a bit of rub on the front mech in highest gear but seem grand apart from that. KMC 11sp seem to click in handy enough in the past, but SRAM seem really troublesome.

magicbastarder

weird that they'd make a tool without the simplest design change which would add functionality without adding cost.

iwillhtfu

Not to ask a simple question but the handles don't rotate 180 deg by chance to make it an outward grip? you could take out the nut and bolt and swap I guess but that's a lot of effort.

Fugs!!

My first time posting here. Today I added mudguards to my steel framed genisis.

smacl

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Not to ask a simple question but the handles don't rotate 180 deg by chance to make it an outward grip? you could take out the nut and bolt and swap I guess but that's a lot of effort.

Not on this on unfortunately, other makes do exactly this.

Fighting Tao

I damaged the rim tape on a tubeless wheel last week when I was trying to get a tyre off to replace a valve. So tonight I retained it, finally got the tyre on and to pop. First time doing this for tubeless. So far so good. Hopefully will retain the air over night.

Fighting Tao

Nice one. It sealed correctly.

ednwireland

fitted SKF bb30 bearings to the cannondale creaking has stopped for now, first time doing a BB30

(i also fitted a new fuel line to my polesaw /hedge trimmer as the fuel had rotted through the fuel line )

CantGetNoSleep

Tried and failed to fit mudguards to my Cannondale Synapse after my bike got completely destroyed on one of those rides where it isn't raining but there is mud everywhere on the roads last week.

I had to buy a removable seat-stay bridge as the shop never included it when I bought the bike. Waited for that to arrive in the post but it arrived without any mounting bolts. Thought I might find something in the spare parts drawer but went to install the mudguards tonight and realised that I also need bolts for the mudguards themselves. The ones that came with the mudguards are too big. Cannondale sell them in packs of 4 (I need 6) so would cost me the bones of 40€. And I'm not even sure that the mudguards will fit - I saw online that they do but looks very tight under the front fork. So back to the drawing board / trying to find somewhere else to buy Cannondale's rip-off screws

cletus

@can'tgetnosleep: post a link to the screws you need

I finally put the bike on the stand today to index the rear derailleur, accompanied by the dulcet tones of Calvin Jones.

As soon as I moved the bike, I realised the front tyre was completly flat. Ever mindful of the blood, sweat, tears and broken tyre levers that went into mounting these tyres in the first place, I (very sensibly) pumped up the front tyre in the hope that the air magically disappeared from the tube, and the the new air will, just as magically, stay inside the goddamned tube

magicbastarder

you just need soupier air.

CantGetNoSleep

cletus wrote: »

@can'tgetnosleep: post a link to the screws you need

I finally put the bike on the stand today to index the rear derailleur, accompanied by the dulcet tones of Calvin Jones.

As soon as I moved the bike, I realised the front tyre was completly flat. Ever mindful of the blood, sweat, tears and broken tyre levers that went into mounting these tyres in the first place, I (very sensibly) pumped up the front tyre in the hope that the air magically disappeared from the tube, and the the new air will, just as magically, stay inside the goddamned tube

Got sorted at a DIY shop for about 3€ - standard 12mm M4 bolts did the job. Just had to shop around to find them with hex caps.

Wasn't an easy job though - tried two sets of mudguards and still not happy. SKS Bluemels 35mm seem to fit the frame well but front stays are way too long and the cheap hacksaw I had was no match for them. On the rear the stays are almost too short, I'm sure there is a way of making them fit but I gave up. Installed a set of Bontrager NCS 45mm which are more of a tight fit in a road bike frame but meant to be no-cut. Tried a test ride and they are fine on the flat but bounce around too much with any bumps. Going to try to tighten everything up and maybe use some loctite and see if I can improve them, if not back to the SKS. On the Bontragers, instead of cutting the stays you can adjust them with an allen key but I'm worried that they will never be as stable.

cletus

Glad you got sorted (with the hotels anyway)

cletus

I decided that banking on a miraculous intervention for my flat tyre was probably not the best solution, especially as I'm planning on going for a spin in the morning. So I decided to check the tube. No puncture. Checked around the valve. No air leaks. Opened the nut on the presta valve core, but didnt press down the core. Stream of bubbles. Slowly closed the nut, the stream reduced until the final nip stopped them altogether. I have a feeling that when I checked the tyres prior to my last spin, I may not have tightened the nut fully, and over the course of the next 5 days it slowly lost air...at least I hope that's what happened

magicbastarder

i've had that happen to me once.

f1000

patching up tubes that have been sat in the corner, needing some attention

Weepsie

Nothing exciting. Finally fit my dynamo light back onto my croix de fer

Alanbt

Couple hours free as took half day from work so started overdue work on this build.
Waiting on a few small parts including bar tape but hopefully be done before New Year.
Savine frameset (columbus zona tubing with llwellyn lugs, columbus max fork), Ultegra 8000 groupset, Hed Belgium + rims on CK hubs

Weepsie

Did my very best to degrease and regrease a sealed headset bearing as I wait a while for new ones to arrive.

It was having a noticeable impact when I used the brake, lots of judder. Seemed fairly gritty when rotating in my hand and not surprised as I know a load of road spray is getting at it.

Anyway, loats of degreaser, wiping, drying and washing out , drying in rice and on a rad and doing my best to pack it in (double sealed too so not easy) and it's in good nick again. Not perfect, but good.

wersal gummage

Alanbt wrote: »

Hed Belgium + rims

That's nice.

Mind me asking where you picked up the rims? I've had a notion for a few years now to build up a set of wheels on these rims, look into it about once a year and always find it next to impossible to find these, or they are crazy money, or only available off ebay from the US

Alanbt

wersal gummage wrote: »

That's nice.

Mind me asking where you picked up the rims? I've had a notion for a few years now to build up a set of wheels on these rims, look into it about once a year and always find it next to impossible to find these, or they are crazy money, or only available off ebay from the US

Got them 2nd hand (well 3rd hand really but apparently limited mileage on them, and sure looks that way from the amount of rim wear) on a UK forum. Wouldn’t have been able to afford these new, considering the price of the hubs!
Nice and wide, noticeably more so then c17 rims on other wheels. 25mm tyres more like 28mm wide on them.