Today I did something to my bike thread...

McBluffin

iwillhtfu wrote: »

You might get a 32 tooth rear cassette on there without any changes and it might be enough. You kind of have to sum up if you want super easy gearing which will be so low you'll spin out quickly on most down hillls or use what you have which will cover most types of terrain. Where's the event?

So the main reason for the bigger cassette, is because I have a 6 days multi day ride in Sept. It is the Mizen to Malin challenge so plenty of 100km+ days with 7500m climbing in total. I did a similar cycle last year and found my knees were getting really sore as I was finding my current cassette wasn't spinny enough for me.

iwillhtfu

McBluffin wrote: »

So the main reason for the bigger cassette, is because I have a 6 days multi day ride in Sept. It is the Mizen to Malin challenge so plenty of 100km+ days with 7500m climbing in total. I did a similar cycle last year and found my knees were getting really sore as I was finding my current cassette wasn't spinny enough for me.

I'd forget the 1x idea so as there's a lot of easy road miles in there and you'll lose top end speed. You'll get a bigger cassette on with a goat link but you'll need to change the chain length I'd say, I had a bike set up with a 34 - 12/46 using a goat link and while it shifts ok I wouldn't say it's perfect. Probably worth putting a 32 cassette on your current set up and see how it feels. There might be more lads on here with a better idea of triples and their limitations

magicbastarder

do you have a route profile? i.e. do they list the climbs and how severe they are?

McBluffin

magicbastarder wrote: »

do you have a route profile? i.e. do they list the climbs and how severe they are?

The attached as the route profile to give you an idea.
Includes Caha Pass and Molls Gap.

dahat

Simple stuff but it’s another step towards maintaining bikes at some level for myself.

New shifter hoods
New bar tape
New chainring fitted
2 headsets removed, cleansed & greased.

One will need replacing soon but I can do that at hone now .

LollipopJimmy

McBluffin wrote: »

The attached as the route profile to give you an idea.
Includes Caha Pass and Molls Gap.

Myself and a few lads are looking at that same route (and possibly event). Tbh the 30x25 will be fine for any hill on that route, however as above you could get an 11-30 on without much bother, thos extra 5 teeth will make a big difference. Any more than that and you're into hassle and possibly compromising your riding on the flat

ED E

Nothing like the sparkle of a brand new cassette. 105 instead of Ult as Im a cheapskate.

CramCycle

ED E wrote: »

Nothing like the sparkle of a brand new cassette. 105 instead of Ult as Im a cheapskate.

The difference is negligible, 105 is solid and to be honest, not sure of the benefit of going to Ultegra unless racing at conti level bar looks. I say this as someone with Ultegra only road bike but that's what it came with.

velo.2010

^^^
Ultegra brakes and derailuers are where you would notice the difference over 105 — thats what I have on the good bike. The rest is 105... cassette, shifters and crankset. The winter bike is full 105.

Anyhow, in keeping with the thread title, I stuck one of the last pairs of GP4000s from Mantle on the good bike for the better weather. We'll see just how much of the road they'll get to see this year!

CramCycle

velo.2010 wrote: »

^^^
Ultegra brakes and derailuers are where you would notice the difference over 105 — thats what I have on the good bike. The rest is 105... cassette, shifters and crankset. The winter bike is full 105.

I would disagree about the brakes in the most recent iterations, bar the weight, I simply do not believe that with the same pads anyone not looking at them could tell the difference. The derailleurs yes, but even then, the difference, IMO, is negligible. More noticeable years ago but nowadays, not so much.

Anyhow, in keeping with the thread title, I stuck one of the last pairs of GP4000s from Mantle on the good bike for the better weather. We'll see just how much of the road they'll get to see this year!

Changed the front pads on my race bike which I took out of the shed the other day, have to change the BB later in the week so its sitting in my office in work. Tired of running out of gears on a windy day on my commuter so may as well put it to some use this year.

DaveyDave

Not arsed making a new thread for this, am I mad to consider a 4iiii crank power meter if I'm not racing or doing serious training? I don't like heart rate monitors and would like to be able to measure my efforts.

I usually just go out and ride but I would like to put in an effort I know is enough to give me a workout but still enjoy myself.

Bike is 4 years old. Canyon Endurace CF, 105 groupset, Zonda wheels. Don't need to change anything on the bike but wouldn't mind buying something, assuming it fits. €290 isn't an unreasonable cost.

dahat

DaveyDave wrote: »

Not arsed making a new thread for this, am I mad to consider a 4iiii crank power meter if I'm not racing or doing serious training? I don't like heart rate monitors and would like to be able to measure my efforts.

I usually just go out and ride but I would like to put in an effort I know is enough to give me a workout but still enjoy myself.

Bike is 4 years old. Canyon Endurace CF, 105 groupset, Zonda wheels. Don't need to change anything on the bike but wouldn't mind buying something, assuming it fits. €290 isn't an unreasonable cost.

There is no unesssecary spend on a bike.

route66

Major service/upgrade on an almost 4-year old Rose PRO SL-2000 (aluminum road bike) - triggered by the rear derailleur cable snapping and original Mavic wheels looking the worst for wear after 19,000 Kms. The bike had got plenty of care over the years with regular replacements of tyres, brake cables, chains, etc but was beginning to feel tired before the gear cable snapped. This is what I did:

• Removed, cleaned, lubricated and replaced jockey wheels
• Removed tyres and tubes from old wheels and replaced on new wheels (DT Swiss P 1800 Spline 23mm Wheelset)
• Removed cassette from old wheel, cleaned and replaced on new wheel
• Replaced chain
• Removed old cable to rear derailleur. Old cable snapped in a gear other than 11th so removed bottom plastic plates from shifter to move "cable end" into position before cable could be fitted. Replaced with new Shimano gear cable into its internal routing through downtube with a little fiddling. Replaced 2 of 3 cable outers, including lengthened cable end into derailleur (outer under bar tape left alone).
• Replaced top and bottom headset bearings. Bottom bearing disintegrated on removal with larger seated shell seized onto frame. Required a hammer blow to unseat.
• Some other tweaking - brake adjustment, lubrication of derailleurs, brake pivots, etc
• Deep clean of bike.

Sometimes "real" work compared to what I normally do is very satisfying. A great way to spend 8 hours on a rainy day that I took as leave

wersal gummage

This doesn't really belong here but didn't want to start another thread or hijack the s/works value thread.... And I'm likely to end up doing a fair bit to my bike..... But before I do...

I have an old carbon road bike (10 years old) , its pretty much immaculate, has been looked after and not used often, serviced regularly etc.... Anyway, if has ultegra 6700 group, again, pretty much immaculate for the age....


I can't decide whether to try flog it (what would you be looking at, 200 or 300 quid maybe? It's also an XL /60cm so not the most sought after size) , or strip the groupset and finishing kit off it and tart up my winter bike which, while also looked after, shows signs of what it has been used for and the 105 groupset is a bit tired looking, but functioning perfectly.....

Finding it hard to contemplate stripping a nice bike and dumping a frame, but equally not too keen on selling a perfectly good bike in really nice condition for a pittance....

Any thoughts or comments? I'm able and have all tools required etc to strip the 2 bikes and swap groupset over

CramCycle

wersal gummage wrote: »

Finding it hard to contemplate stripping a nice bike and dumping a frame, but equally not too keen on selling a perfectly good bike in really nice condition for a pittance....

Any thoughts or comments? I'm able and have all tools required etc to strip the 2 bikes and swap groupset over

Ask for what you would accept, you either will get it or you won't, more of chance as we getter closer to spring and summer. If you don't get it, keep it and have a nice back up bike.

magicbastarder

you'd see any bike in good nick on adverts asking €200 usually. i'm in a similar position, i have a 17 year old bike which is rarely used but simply would be a waste to sell it for the same price a five year old low range trek hybrid would be asking.

TheW1zard

wersal gummage wrote: »

This doesn't really belong here but didn't want to start another thread or hijack the s/works value thread.... And I'm likely to end up doing a fair bit to my bike..... But before I do...

I have an old carbon road bike (10 years old) , its pretty much immaculate, has been looked after and not used often, serviced regularly etc.... Anyway, if has ultegra 6700 group, again, pretty much immaculate for the age....


I can't decide whether to try flog it (what would you be looking at, 200 or 300 quid maybe? It's also an XL /60cm so not the most sought after size) , or strip the groupset and finishing kit off it and tart up my winter bike which, while also looked after, shows signs of what it has been used for and the 105 groupset is a bit tired looking, but functioning perfectly.....

Finding it hard to contemplate stripping a nice bike and dumping a frame, but equally not too keen on selling a perfectly good bike in really nice condition for a pittance....

Any thoughts or comments? I'm able and have all tools required etc to strip the 2 bikes and swap groupset over

Strip it and I'll buy the frame off you!

DaveyDave

Mounted the 105 pedals yesterday and set up cleats on the new shoes. Going from a chunky MTB shoe with laces to a road shoe with dial adjustment feels much more locked in, plus there's ventilation at the front which is nice! Cleats almost spot on just need some minor adjustment.

Now my bottom bracket is creaking at the slightest bit of power so I'll have to have a look at that...

DaveyDave

DaveyDave wrote: »

Mounted the 105 pedals yesterday and set up cleats on the new shoes. Going from a chunky MTB shoe with laces to a road shoe with dial adjustment feels much more locked in, plus there's ventilation at the front which is nice! Cleats almost spot on just need some minor adjustment.

Now my bottom bracket is creaking at the slightest bit of power so I'll have to have a look at that...

Took the cranks off, no noticeable play in the bottom bracket. Cleaned any grit, and regreased everything with reassembly. As soon as I put it back together my 4iii crank power meter arrived. Not even a joke, as soon as I put the Allen key down the doorbell rang haha, tracking said due Monday.

Still creaking, might take off the saddle, quick releases etc as I had something similar before and took removing everything to sort. If it's still creaky tomorrow I'll drop it into the bike shop.

dahat

Had problems within unidentifiable creaks until I discovered that the grey rubber on the look cleats was the cause.

triggermortis

Finally got around to fitting a new crank to the good bike. Got it last year but because it has semi compact rings, I needed a longer chain and to adjust the fed derailleur.
New chain fitted, crank fitted and cadence sensor swapped over.
Also tightened up my headset.
All this took over 2 hours as my 12 week old puppy wanted to play just as I had the old cranks off...

LollipopJimmy

Finally fit my new wheels.

cletus

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Finally fit my new wheels.

Bike looks great

LollipopJimmy

cletus wrote: »

Bike looks great

Major improvements to the rider needed now.

LollipopJimmy

triggermortis wrote: »

Finally got around to fitting a new crank to the good bike. Got it last year but because it has semi compact rings, I needed a longer chain and to adjust the fed derailleur.
New chain fitted, crank fitted and cadence sensor swapped over.
Also tightened up my headset.
All this took over 2 hours as my 12 week old puppy wanted to play just as I had the old cranks off...

Can we see the puppy?

Tony04

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Finally fit my new wheels.

Beauty.
My ocd is going mad about the crank slightly more to four o clock than 3 o clock and the cassette not on the small cog.
But the slammed stem and colour matched cables make up for that, the sign a bike is well looked after .

Is that taken at the old boat club in kilbarrack?

LollipopJimmy

Taken at St.Fintans this afternoon. Turned an email into a site visit...

I need new bar tape, I bought plain black ages ago so going to fit that and will be fitting either a black or gold chain but that's another story.

magicbastarder

go for bright yellow bar tape, it'd look class.

LollipopJimmy

magicbastarder wrote: »

go for bright yellow bar tape, it'd look class.

Funny you should say that :pac:

Fugs!!

So today I fitted new wheels to my genesis equilibrium. A pair of hunt 4 seasons. A few hundred grams saved and look super.