Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Dog flap in PVC door

  • 30-08-2012 1:35pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 650 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    How would you go about installing a Dog door in a PVC door?
    Can i just jigsaw out the shape or anyone any experience with attached pic type of door?

    Cheers


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭doctorchopper


    I've done 2 of these now, You're door is a bit difficult with the moldings on it, my first door had them. I used a oscillating saw http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/reviews/more/oscillating-multi-tools/. What i did is put the template on and drill the 4 corners, then draw a line from hole to hole. I was afraid that with a jig saw that the back side wouldn't match the front side because of the flex in the jig saw blade. Its very soft material and the inner is just foam. How big is the dog door. Mine were staywell large aluminum ones.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 789 ✭✭✭650gs


    Best plan is to pop out the beads and buy a flat panel, you wont see the two panels so that is the best way and then just cut with a jig saw


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 650 ✭✭✭preddy


    I've done 2 of these now, You're door is a bit difficult with the moldings on it, my first door had them. I used a oscillating saw http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/reviews/more/oscillating-multi-tools/. What i did is put the template on and drill the 4 corners, then draw a line from hole to hole. I was afraid that with a jig saw that the back side wouldn't match the front side because of the flex in the jig saw blade. Its very soft material and the inner is just foam. How big is the dog door. Mine were staywell large aluminum ones.

    I dont get how it would sit flush with those moldings?


    650gs wrote: »
    Best plan is to pop out the beads and buy a flat panel, you wont see the two panels so that is the best way and then just cut with a jig saw

    Any idea where to get flat panels? are they a standard size?
    Do any PVC door place do them?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,300 ✭✭✭martinn123


    preddy wrote: »
    I dont get how it would sit flush with those moldings?

    It won't.
    preddy wrote:
    Any idea where to get flat panels? are they a standard size?
    Do any PVC door place do them?

    Pop the beads and measure the size of the panel, including the thickness, and go down to your nearest PVC window Co
    They should have some off-cuts which might suit, otherwise they can order you some


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 650 ✭✭✭preddy


    I cant seem to get the beads to budge, is it possible they are permanent?
    See attached.

    Lost to where to go now, local company dont do repairs.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,300 ✭✭✭martinn123


    preddy wrote: »
    I cant seem to get the beads to budge, is it possible they are permanent?
    See attached.

    Lost to where to go now, local company dont do repairs.


    First, make sure you are on the right side of the window, i.e some beads are on inside, older ones on outside.
    Use a thin blade, maybe a paint-scraper, you should be able to get it in behind the bead. try, between the bead and the frame, not between the bead and the panel.
    have a look to see if they are scribed, is one over the other, at the corner, if so the horizontal, or the vertical will come out first, remember you will have to put them back in reverse order.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,845 ✭✭✭massy086


    preddy wrote: »
    I cant seem to get the beads to budge, is it possible they are permanent?
    See attached.

    Lost to where to go now, local company dont do repairs.

    if you are in or around dublin drop me a pm i should be able to help i have done a couple of these for customers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,721 ✭✭✭Al Capwned


    You'll never get them out starting at the corners. Get a scraper/chisel/screwdriver between the bead and the frame in the centre of the longest bead. Then push the bead towards the centre of the door. The remaining three can then be released from the exposed corner(s)
    i.e your first action is into the door, then push the bead along the door, if that makes sense.

    Where you based?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,721 ✭✭✭Al Capwned


    double post ...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 650 ✭✭✭preddy


    Mullingar, but i have a guy calling out to me now seems to know what he is talking about, mentioned the black rubber(in image) may have to come out first on the outside. I will leave it to him as i couldn't get anything in between the door and the bead on any side.!

    Thanks!


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,721 ✭✭✭Al Capwned


    The black rubber will only need to be removed on an aluminium door - It most certainly will not have to come out on your door.

    On a pvc door, the rubber you see on the bead side (normally inside) is fitted at manufacture stage of the bead - "co-extruded" i.e. It is part of the bead.

    The rubber on the opposite side is fitted by the window company before installation of the panel, so any attempt to remove the rubber before removal of the bead and panel will tear it.

    You also need to ensure the panel is packed properly - A process called "toe and heel-ing" keeps the weight favouring the hinge side of the door.

    Actually, just did a quick youtube search and found this.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭doctorchopper


    preddy wrote: »
    I dont get how it would sit flush with those moldings?


    I just cut the moldings where the dog flap goes and popped the moldings off, doesn't look as good as a flat panel does, and isn't as easy as a lat panel, but does work


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,721 ✭✭✭Al Capwned


    I would definitely put the cat flap on a flat panel (probably either 24mm or 28mm, btw) and keep the moulded panel. (Who fitted / what make are your windows, do you know?)

    The flat panel would be cheap, and it would allow for easy reversal to a normal door if so required. If you put the flap on the existing raised panel, you'd need to buy a new one if you wanted to go back.
    It would also be easier to fit the flap to a flat panel, considering proper sealing, cutting it correctly etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭doctorchopper


    martinn123 wrote: »
    It won't.


    It will if you cut the molding back, they are only glued onto the panel, you will still be left with half the molding but it will fit flush, i have done it,it does work, but its probably best you get a flat panel,it is easier.


Advertisement