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Beech/Hornbeam hedge... not up to much!

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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Oldtree wrote: »
    and I'm not into letting you away with your advice to posters here (your are not gardner by your on words) that I think is not the best advice going, without a challenge!


    You want to talk about "highhorse"...???

    Oldtree...why are you adopting this aggressive style suddenly??:confused:

    You are usually a nice,mild mannered person.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    must be the time of the month, didnt mean to upset. toodaloo


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Oldtree wrote: »
    must be the time of the month, didnt mean to upset. toodaloo



    I think you need to calm down a bit allright.

    We all need a cuppa tea now and to relax here.


  • Registered Users Posts: 159 ✭✭Northumbria


    JJJJNR wrote: »
    I'm having a terrible time with this hedge, not sure what to do.. here's one side

    IMG_1434.jpg

    And the other side... :(:o

    IMG_1433.jpg

    I did post earlier this year and advise was to prune them which I've done but they look terrible now!

    Any further advise, sorry for the hijack!.. :)

    Replace the plants and when you do I'd check the soil. Those plants are no good, there might be something such as poor drainage, cement, or just poor plants that are causing that. Probably cement or some building rubble in the soil that could be poisoning them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,189 ✭✭✭Ophiopogon


    Oldtree wrote: »
    must be the time of the month, didnt mean to upset. toodaloo

    Nice! :rolleyes:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Jaysus this has been an interesting read. :rolleyes::rolleyes:

    Can the 'lovely missus' be left out of it for those concerned or better still if you have something to say to or about the lovely missus do it directly and not through a third party.

    I am quite lovely though, I must agree. :D:pac::pac::pac:

    The real challenge will be going through every post of every member in every thread on the gardening forum and deciding whether or not these members are worthy of offering advice on this forum, as deemed fit by the mighty-mod-to-be-Oldtree. :pac::pac::pac:

    PS lets not confuse hedge with birch tree pruning/ optimum time. ;) Werent so smart then, with me, as it happens, Hmmm. :confused:

    As for grades of bark, I think thats another thread, that incidentially was another interesting read. :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 887 ✭✭✭kormak


    Thanks for your input folks, but I'm honestly more confused than when I started this thread!!
    too many opposing opinions and over complicating advice...

    Do I leave the 60 or so very small plants that are there and just give them time to grow or
    do I cut my losses, dig them out and start again with something more suited such as Laurel...

    I have approx 12 replacements to order and re-plant this October/November... Will try order taller/more mature hedging, prune back when planting and plant with a top soil/compost/manure mix...?

    Where can I easily buy farmyard manure? presume good gardening stores have them??

    Ohh and the pruning, I'll just leave for now till they get bigger... and prune in Summer... or was it that Winter...! :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    If you replant the hedge with bareroots heres what to do for most decidious plants...

    Dont let bareroots dry out before planting and have a look at the roots, make sure they have good root systems.

    Prepare soil first adding organic matter like farmyard manure.

    Plant your plants firming the soil around them and make sure theyre at the right level(should be able to see the old soil mark level on the stems).

    Cut back by a third or so straight after planting.

    Water well.

    Next summer trim back any shoots growing at right angles to the hedge and any vigorous shoots growing upwards. You dont want any one plant to dominate its neighbours.

    In winter cut new shoots back by about a third and any shoots growing out at right angles.

    Trim again in summer. :)

    Keep your hedge well watered until its established, dont forget to feed it too as pruning removes resources from it, you could mulch with farmyard manure, not letting it touch the stems.

    Pruning early on is important to get a well balanced hedge and also depends on the type of plants you choose for the hedge.

    Farmyard manure can be bought in any good garden centre bagged,about 45 litre bags or in tonne bags if you need a lot.


  • Registered Users Posts: 887 ✭✭✭kormak


    muckyhands wrote: »
    If you replant the hedge with bareroots heres what to do...

    Dont let bareroots dry out before planting and have a look at the roots, make sure they have good root systems.

    Prepare soil first adding organic matter like farmyard manure.

    Plant your plants firming the soil around them and make sure theyre at the right level(should be able to see the old soil mark level on the stems).

    Cut back by a third or so straight after planting.

    Water well.

    Next summer trim back any shoots growing at right angles to the hedge and any vigorous shoots growing upwards. You dont want any one plant to dominate its neighbours.

    In winter cut new shoots back by about a third and any shoots growing out at right angles.

    Trim again in summer. :)

    Keep your hedge well watered until its established, dont forget to feed it too as pruning removes resources from it, you could mulch with farmyard manure, not letting it touch the stems.

    Pruning early on is important to get a well balanced hedge.

    Farmyard manure can be bought in any good garden centre bagged,about 45 litre bags or in tonne bags if you need a lot.

    Thanks Muckyhands! I'm gonna print this and refer when planting in the next few weeks.
    For the sake of an easy life, I'm gonna leave any decent looking plants in there and whip out the rest.
    is it a 50/50 mix with manure & topsoil?? do I even need regular compost??
    The mulch on top is indeed bark mulch, I just spread it every so ofen to keep the weeds and grass back, which is feckin rampant!! :mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 887 ✭✭✭kormak


    http://www.garden-centres.ie/plants-flowers/hedging/planting-container-grown-hedging

    Just read the part about the rabbits & hares.... our neck of the woods is FULL of them!!! :rolleyes:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    kormak wrote: »
    Thanks Muckyhands! I'm gonna print this and refer when planting in the next few weeks.
    For the sake of an easy life, I'm gonna leave any decent looking plants in there and whip out the rest.
    is it a 50/50 mix with manure & topsoil?? do I even need regular compost??
    The mulch on top is indeed bark mulch, I just spread it every so ofen to keep the weeds and grass back, which is feckin rampant!! :mad:


    Bare in mind what type of plants that you replace with re pruning and when. :)

    For manure depends on your soil really.


  • Registered Users Posts: 887 ✭✭✭kormak


    muckyhands wrote: »
    Bare in mind what type of plants that you replace with re pruning and when. :)

    For manure depends on your soil really.

    probably gonna replace with Hornbeam....


  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    kormak wrote: »
    probably gonna replace with Hornbeam....

    Nice hedge, have it in my own garden. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    muckyhands wrote: »
    PS lets not confuse hedge with birch tree pruning/ optimum time. ;) Werent so smart then, with me, as it happens, Hmmm. :confused:

    thought I was smart enough in stating the obvious to you.

    your quote from here :

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=78928258

    "My two cents worth.....

    In Winter the tree is dormant and does not have the means to occlude wounds so..... dont stress it out by pruning"

    shows a serious lack of any knowledge relating to trees, and while paddy147 says you have a serious qualification in bottany, your knowledge when it comes to trees is seriously lacking, and I would suggest you further educate yourself if you intend to proffer advice regarding trees. The study of trees is called arboriculture.


  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Oldtree wrote: »
    thought I was smart enough in stating the obvious to you.

    your quote from here :

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=78928258

    "My two cents worth.....

    In Winter the tree is dormant and does not have the means to occlude wounds so..... dont stress it out by pruning"

    shows a serious lack of any knowledge relating to trees, and while paddy147 says you have a serious qualification in bottany, your knowledge when it comes to trees is seriously lacking, and I would suggest you further educate yourself if you intend to proffer advice regarding trees. The study of trees is called arboriculture.

    Thought the current thread was about formative pruning of a hedge and not in fact anything relating to when to prune Birch tree due to its nature of bleeding, in which case summertime. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 846 ✭✭✭Gambas


    kormak wrote: »
    Hi Folks,

    Just wanted to run these concerns passed the experts!
    I planted 70 beech & hornbeam hedges in November 2010. (1 month before one of the biggest freezes in decades!!)
    For the most part they survived, with approx 10 plants dieing.
    They're still growing 2 years later but are not up to much. I appreciate that beech hedging is a slow grower, but I get the feeling my plants are struggling somehow...
    I bought the plants from Future Forests as 1-2' bare roots and planted 18" apart with a compost and manure mix.
    I spread mulch down every so often to keep the weeds/grass at bay...
    The ground in my garden is quite rocky and I came across a number of large boulders when planting the roots...
    Some of the plants have a bit of foliage now, which you can see from the pics... but others are alive but practically leafless.
    What are my next steps regarding this hedge?? do I sit wand wait... can I try and prune some of these to promote bushier plants and if so, when should I be doing this??
    Appreciate any hints/tips and advice you can give me!!

    Thanks

    My two cents: remove the weed suppressant and more importantly, remove the chip mulch and mulch with grass clippings for the next few years. I've had mixed hedges - hawthorn/hornbeam/privet/ash/wild rose/spindle/blackthorn all planted the same way, only difference being the way they were mulched. The chip mustn't have been fully seasoned and was doing more harm than good, because the grass mulched sections were far more vigorous. Grass mulch improved the poor sections.


  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Oldtree wrote: »
    thought I was smart enough in stating the obvious to you.

    your quote from here :

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=78928258

    "My two cents worth.....

    In Winter the tree is dormant and does not have the means to occlude wounds so..... dont stress it out by pruning"

    shows a serious lack of any knowledge relating to trees, and while paddy147 says you have a serious qualification in bottany, your knowledge when it comes to trees is seriously lacking, and I would suggest you further educate yourself if you intend to proffer advice regarding trees. The study of trees is called arboriculture.

    Quote the whole post not just the bit you feel will best discredit me. :rolleyes:

    Trees have always been traditionally pruned in Winter and this is often for convenience more than anything- litte else to do, no leaves on tree so easier to see its structure.....

    My two cents worth.....

    In Spring the tree is busy producing new leaves, dont stress it out by pruning.

    In Autumn the tree is busy shutting off the supply to its leaves for leaf drop, dont stress it out by pruning.

    In Winter the tree is dormant and does not have the means to occlude wounds so..... dont stress it out by pruning.

    In Mid-late Summer the tree is not so busy, now is the time to prune.

    Exceptions of course, example Apples/ Pears where pruning is carried out at a certain time of year for disease prevention.

    Pruning is such a pain in the backside- you have to decide whats best for your particular one.

    On one hand you may not want to lose the following years flowers by pruning at the wrong time, so prune after flowering.

    On the other hand this may not be the best time re disease prevention. rolleyes.png

    Circumstances will prevail, in the case of Birch I woud be inclined to prune in Summer. The tree has the means to occlude the wound, its not 'busy' doing other things and the leaves are there to take up the sap rather than have it bleed.



    Yes trees are traditionally pruned in winter when theyre dormant- but thats not necessarily whats in the best interests of the tree, hence the above. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    @ kormac

    Sorry your threads gone so off topic.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    muckyhands wrote: »
    Yes trees are traditionally pruned in winter when theyre dormant- but thats not necessarily whats in the best interests of the tree, hence the above. :)

    I thought BOLD lettering meant shouting... lots of bold up there

    I put up a link to the thread at the top of my post so it could be read in totality and so I couldn’t be accused of being selective :rolleyes:

    Some more thoughts for you to contemplate for the reasons for winter pruning of trees and hedges (made of trees)

    To maximise wound closure in the following growing season
    To reduce the chance of transmitting disease like fireblight, a bacterial disease spread by pruning.
    To discourage excessive sap flow from the wounds as recent fresh wounds which emit chemical scents attracting insects that are disease vectors and insect activity is low in winter. One well known example being the Elm beetle.
    To easily visualise the structure of the tree/hedge to make it less painful on the backside to prune.


  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Oldtree wrote: »
    I thought BOLD lettering meant shouting... lots of bold up there

    I put up a link to the thread at the top of my post so it could be read in totality and so I couldn’t be accused of being selective :rolleyes:

    Some more thoughts for you to contemplate for the reasons for winter pruning of trees and hedges (made of trees)

    To maximise wound closure in the following growing season
    To reduce the chance of transmitting disease like fireblight, a bacterial disease spread by pruning.
    To discourage excessive sap flow from the wounds as recent fresh wounds which emit chemical scents attract insects that are disease vectors and insect activity is low in winter. One well known example being the Elm beetle.
    To easily visualise the structure of the tree/hedge to make it less painful on the backside to prune.

    So youre basically telling me what I said in the very first instance. Well done you sir. :rolleyes::D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Ill put it another way then-

    In the trees interest its best that it can start occluding the wound as soon as possible to reduce infection etc- this isnt gonna happen in the dormant season

    But

    This isnt the only factor when it comes to pruning- when deciding when to do it

    We take into account other factors

    Our own convenience re being able to see the trees structure
    What species of tree is it
    Disease prevention
    Flowering time
    etc etc etc

    These are two separate points.

    Thats the point. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    muckyhands wrote: »
    So youre basically telling me what I said in the very first instance. Well done you sir. :rolleyes::D

    We would agree on a lot I'm sure, and I'm glad we have cleared that up and can finally say:

    The optimal pruning time for trees and hedges is in the winter (dormant season) when temperatures and infection rates are lower and when trees are not actively growing, (which includes birch).:D

    Now we could take that a bit forward to a mature hedge, where you may want to stunt overall growth in which case you could cut it at the wrong time of the year, but risky mind out for that frost.


  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Oldtree wrote: »
    We would agree on a lot I'm sure, and I'm glad we have cleared that up and can finally say:

    The optimal pruning time for trees and hedges is in the winter (dormant season) when temperatures and infection rates are lower and when trees are not actively growing, (which includes birch).:D

    Now we could take that a bit forward to a mature hedge, where you may want to stunt overall growth in which case you could cut it at the wrong time of the year, but risky mind out for that frost.

    So you lump every species of tree into the same category with a one rule fits all attitude when it comes to pruning and dont take other factors into consideration.

    Uh Oh. :eek::(


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    muckyhands wrote: »
    Ill put it another way then-
    In the trees interest its best that it can start occluding the wound as soon as possible to reduce infection etc- this isnt gonna happen in the dormant season
    But
    This isnt the only factor when it comes to pruning- when deciding when to do it
    We take into account other factors
    Our own convenience re being able to see the trees structure
    What species of tree is it
    Disease prevention
    Flowering time
    etc etc etc
    These are two separate points.
    Thats the point. :)

    oh oh, i thought we had gotten to an accord.
    I think is can see the problem now. My focus would be the tree and not the asthetic of the tree. When I say optimum time to prune I mean for the tree's physiological benifit and not a matter of convenience.
    Disease is less of an issue during winter as i've just mentioned thus your occlusion idea isnt right. :confused:

    Say you prune off a branch in january, the tree has the whole growing season to occlude the wound, as against if you prune in june the tree only has half the growing season to occlude. remembering disease and infection is more active in summer


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    muckyhands wrote: »
    So you lump every species of tree into the same category with a one rule fits all attitude when it comes to pruning and dont take other factors into consideration.

    Uh Oh. :eek::(

    tree physiology is generally the same for all trees with few exceptions, and the other constraints you infer are human issues.


  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    My sincere apologies go to that spring flowering hedge you would prune in winter because you reckon-


    'The optimal pruning time for trees and hedges is in the winter (dormant season) when temperatures and infection rates are lower and when trees are not actively growing, (which includes birch).biggrin.png'

    :eek::(


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    muckyhands wrote: »
    My sincere apologies go to that spring flowering hedge you would prune in winter because you reckon-


    'The optimal pruning time for trees and hedges is in the winter (dormant season) when temperatures and infection rates are lower and when trees are not actively growing, (which includes birch).biggrin.png'

    :eek::(

    That would be a shrub hedge then :D I'm talking about trees and tree hedges I thought that was clear from the start or are you trying to mucky the waters


  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭muckyhands


    Oldtree wrote: »
    That would be a shrub hedge then :D I'm talking about trees and tree hedges I thought that was clear from the start or are you trying to mucky the waters

    You do realise this is a gardening forum dont you. :rolleyes:

    And its pretty obvious to anyone reading this youve dug a hole, are trying to get out and you just muckied the waters even more for yourself with that post. :D


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Oldtree wrote: »
    and I'm not into letting you away with your advice to posters here (your are not gardner by your on words) that I think is not the best advice going, without a challenge!



    No Im not a gardener.Ive allways stated that.

    You say you are a professional,an arborist and an "expert" though (read your post stating that here and on another thread),thats correct yes??

    You criticize people for posting here on the gardening forum,due to their supposed lack of knowledge (according to the gospel of Oldtree).

    And according to you on quite a few threads,Birch trees should be pruned in wintertime and not summertime,and hornbeam pruned in wintertime.

    I happened to be in the library today dropping back some DIY and car engine books,and was also flicking through a few tree and pruning books.

    DSCF4114.jpg


    So you still want to talk about peoples lack of knowledge and to try and discredit them too??

    Can we apply that "lack of knowladge" to your good self then??;):rolleyes:


    PS-You seem to flip flop on various threads,to suit yourself and get out of the hole that you dig for yourself..


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,104 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    muckyhands wrote: »
    You do realise this is a gardening forum dont you. :rolleyes:

    And its pretty obvious to anyone reading this youve dug a hole, are trying to get out and you just muckied the waters even more for yourself with that post. :D

    Dont think its obvious at all that I've dug a hole. Been a passionate gardener since before you were born sweet mucky. Have had my own gardens for decades, been in thousands of other gardens, got a dip in arboriculture, continue to update my knowledge and have acumulated a lot of information from many other passionate gardeners. I'd say you are in the hole so to speak due to a lack of experience and unwillingness to learn. :D


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