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Arcade Cocktail Tables Restoration

135

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    Jebus that looks nice and clean ,great job so far Keith.

    Are you not gonna just go with a normal Jamma PSU or was the other just for test purposes.
    Few questions as obviously i Have one which i bought of you and have to get cracking on.

    So how did you get the bottom black panel off. I removed L shaped brackets on the inside but it seems to be glued with wood, Was that the case with yours?

    Are you gonna keep your joysticks and CP two-way.
    I've cleaned all my panels up and they look good but I would kinda like a four way CP.

    The only Taito/ Nichibutsu four way one I can see that fits with out ruining restoration is the one for Moon Cresta.
    I've had no luck it finding one of those on the interweb
    IMG_20130729_201343_zps8dcf63d3.jpg

    Ohhh did you have as much fun as i did removing those control panel bolts, took me 2 hours for each control panel..rusted to be jaysus


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Jebus that looks nice and clean ,great job so far Keith.

    Are you not gonna just go with a normal Jamma PSU or was the other just for test purposes.
    Few questions as obviously i Have one which i bought of you and have to get cracking on.

    Figured its easier just to use the psu of an external hard drive than wiring up a jamma psu, ill never be sticking other games in it anyways.
    So how did you get the bottom black panel off. I removed L shaped brackets on the inside but it seems to be glued with wood, Was that the case with yours?

    This one was just held on with about 10-15 bolts. I had to dremel half them off to get it off. dont think it was glued on.
    Are you gonna keep your joysticks and CP two-way.
    I've cleaned all my panels up and they look good but I would kinda like a four way CP.

    The only Taito/ Nichibutsu four way one I can see that fits with out ruining restoration is the one for Moon Cresta.
    I've had no luck it finding one of those on the interweb

    Ive disabled all games on a 60in1 except Space Invaders so only need to go left to right. Im just gonna leave it that way, i can play other games on the other cabs if i need to.

    Keep your eye on this site, i bought repros off him but i didnt use them in the end because the shaft on new sticks where too big for the channel in them and they where getting stuck.

    http://andysarcade.net/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=100
    Ohhh did you have as much fun as i did removing those control panel bolts, took me 2 hours for each control panel..rusted to be jaysus

    Dont talk to me about it. It took me a few days to take it apart, i had to dremel off a lot of them because they where rusted to bits.

    The holders on the inside of the cpos where rusted too, i had to scrub them down big time then i resprayed them chrome. same with the legs. its looks grand now though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,725 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    You not finished yet ? :D:D


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    managed to finally get the Coin mech working.. I bought one off an amusement website earlier, then i get home from work and im walking in from the back garden and what do i see, two coin mechs exactly the same as the one in the cocktail in the remaining taito mini i have, doh!!

    anyways while removing one of the two from the taito mini, i realised something looking at it. the microswitch on these are wired different than joysticks or buttons! they have the earth connected as usual but instead of having the jamma coin wire on the normally open connection like everything else, i notice its on the normally closed one! so after all my messing around, buying another coin mech.. turns out i just had the coin wire on the wrong connection!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    I never realized it matters what connection you have ground or 5v on on buttons/joystick.
    I'm fairly sure i've randomly wired then to either connector with no problems...I could be wrong!!!
    In the end does it not just create a closed/open circuit anyway...that's weird man.
    So if you put them on the wrong ones, an unpressed button would just result in the button being pressed all the time in the game.
    me+ electronics = fire


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    I think it does make a difference, if you put it on the wrong one it would be like constantly pressing the button. the earth is always the one on its own then you usually use the nearest one to that, but this coin switch only works when you use the other one.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Havent had a chance to do anything with this in a few months, but i was off today and it was sunny out so manage to get all the sanding and painting of parts done! Sanded down the metal base, coin box and a few other bits and sprayed then black, sprayed the wood lid that sits under the glass top too. Put another coat of chrome on the legs as well as the monitor brackets and two metal bits that go on the side. sprayed some bolts black too.

    I picked up a colour 13" monitor off mitch a few weeks back, so when the paint is dry tomorrow i might try sticking it all together and see if it blows up! Will only need to get a new glass top cut then. have the original still but i think ill get a new piece.

    cocktail.jpg


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    I was flying along with these but ran into a small snag that held me up. I put most of the newly sanded and sprayed pieces back together, had to then use a dremel to cut down the bolts on the inside as they where too long and preventing me from adding all the inards back in.

    When i got to adding the monitor in, i took the brackets off the old one that was in the cocktail, took the brackets off the newer monitor i got off mitch, and when i went to put the old brackets on the newer monitor the holes didnt line up. so i needed to drill new holes in the old brackets. Only problem is i didnt have a drill bit that would go through the metal bracket. so had to give up. I bought a pack of drillbits yesterday that should do the job. hoping to get to it tomorrow. here is a pick of it as it stands now. coin drawer is full of old 10p coins!
    IMG_20140418_191429.jpg


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Looking Sexy!


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,633 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Wow, consider my gob truly smacked, that looks amazing.
    Can't wait to see the monitor in and the game running.


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Wow, consider my gob truly smacked, that looks amazing.
    Can't wait to see the monitor in and the game running.

    Thanks guys , hoping to get a bit more done on it today.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,147 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    Looks amazing, gotta get me one of these someday, they are lovely neat machines


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Need some Help!! Ok guys who have messed around with monitors before.. I cant get power to the monitor, its definatly not reaching the monitor, i know this for two reasons.

    1. The psu in it, the new one i put in, the light is not going green on it. it wasnt powering on with the old one in it either.
    2. The fan i have hooked up temporarily isnt "fanning"

    Here are some pics..

    1. The monitor installed, need to line up the brackets etc but its in.

    20140421_171759.jpg

    2. I stuck a plug on this wire G. It was blue\brown\green(earth) on the top G stickered side, so assumed thats where the plug goes, plus i think mitch said it goes there too.

    20140421_171825.jpg

    3. Wired up the RGBVHsync to the 60 in 1 board\jamma harness RGBVHsync

    20140421_172854.jpg

    4. No light on the psu.

    20140421_171859.jpg

    5. No Fanning on the fan.

    20140421_171832.jpg

    I think the big block thing isnt transfering power through it? only thing i can think of. what you monitor experts think?

    20140421_171920.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    Hey Keith, it's near enough the same setup as the one you gave me.
    If that monitor is 220v which I'd say it is( ask Mitch or look for sticker on the chassis) you shouldn't need that big old school transformer or any of that old wiring. Just go back to basics...hook the ground live and neutral straight to the psu from the stripped down wires coming from your main plug chord. The light will come on it if it's not a duff.
    Then jump the grd, live and neutral wires coming from the monitor lead straight to the same 3 input wires.
    That should fire up the monitor.


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    **** man Ment to reply to you!
    Have you a meter?
    As chop said that might be a step down traffo.
    Altho your jamma psu should work on 110v afaik.
    First tho I'd check your incoming power.
    Follow the cable in and check if you have juice at the first terminal. If now juice there check your 13a fuse at the socket.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Hey Keith, it's near enough the same setup as the one you gave me.
    If that monitor is 220v which I'd say it is( ask Mitch or look for sticker on the chassis) you shouldn't need that big old school transformer or any of that old wiring. Just go back to basics...hook the ground live and neutral straight to the psu from the stripped down wires coming from your main plug chord. The light will come on it if it's not a duff.
    Then jump the grd, live and neutral wires coming from the monitor lead straight to the same 3 input wires.
    That should fire up the monitor.

    I think Mitch said this one is 110v, ive never really wired up a monitor before from scratch like this so im kinda lost to be honest!
    urbanledge wrote: »
    **** man Ment to reply to you!
    Have you a meter?
    As chop said that might be a step down traffo.
    Altho your jamma psu should work on 110v afaik.
    First tho I'd check your incoming power.
    Follow the cable in and check if you have juice at the first terminal. If now juice there check your 13a fuse at the socket.

    Ill have to get the meter out and see whats going on, hopefully have a look at it the weekend at some stage. when you say 13a fuse you talking about the one in the plug? It was a new plug i put on it straight out of the packet, but ill check it anyways in case.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    Ohhh I see, I didn't know it was 110v.but then are you sure that the transformer in that is even a step down transformer or just an ISO one. If it's a step down it may show you The output voltages on one side.
    I wouldn't connect jack to it until you know.
    Either way I can see you have a power switch and line filter in the mix as well.

    I'd cut them from the equation...
    It should really be only 2 steps if that's a step down transformer(also if it ain't you can buy one online easily)

    1.First connect ac in from power chord .directly to psu to make sure it's alive.

    2.Next forget about the power switch and line filter.(for the moment)..you just need to find out if that's a step down transformer. If so jump the ground, live and neutral from the ac in on the psu connections straight to input on the transformer.
    Then connect monitor live and neutral to output side of the transformer.

    I'm only going from my very very small amount of knowledge gained from the cocktail ya gave me.
    Good luck


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    need to get myself some proper wire to do this right. I cant figure it out as is. Not getting anything on ac off the iso thing, i checked the plug the fuse is grand. cant figure out why im not getting any power.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Ohhh I see, I didn't know it was 110v.but then are you sure that the transformer in that is even a step down transformer or just an ISO one. If it's a step down it may show you The output voltages on one side.
    I wouldn't connect jack to it until you know.
    Either way I can see you have a power switch and line filter in the mix as well.

    I'd cut them from the equation...
    It should really be only 2 steps if that's a step down transformer(also if it ain't you can buy one online easily)

    1.First connect ac in from power chord .directly to psu to make sure it's alive.

    2.Next forget about the power switch and line filter.(for the moment)..you just need to find out if that's a step down transformer. If so jump the ground, live and neutral from the ac in on the psu connections straight to input on the transformer.
    Then connect monitor live and neutral to output side of the transformer.

    I'm only going from my very very small amount of knowledge gained from the cocktail ya gave me.
    Good luck

    Looking at this today I finally got my head around what you are saying haha. I understand what you mean now and I'll try this next.


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Had another crack at this today. Disconnected all wires going to the monitor before doing this. Had a fan hooked up to the power.

    Cut an extension cable and connected the wires like the below image.
    I kept the two other wires that where connected to the switch in as well. you can see them in the image, from what i can see they go to the bottom of of the 110 side of the iso block thing.

    20140511_140201.jpg

    Powered it up, the fan starting spinning it started making noise. but something isnt right, i know this because of two things.

    1) The sizzling
    2) The smoke!

    Both coming from the 230 side of that iso block..

    So i switched it off.

    20140511_140214.jpg

    Any ideas? Unky chop chop? Mitch? Bueller?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,147 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    should these not go to the 240v side of the block if they are coming from the wall/plug?20140511_140201.jpg
    If you are putting in 240 into the 110 side of the transformer a lot higher is coming out the opposite side(240)?


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    yeh thats what i was thinking, but they are soldered onto that side of the block? I just screwed them into the psu where they where originally..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    Yeah I think Cathals right.
    The 220v coming from the psu should go to the 220v input on the ISO.
    And those pink and blue live and neutral wires coming from the 110v output side of the ISO that you attached to the psu should actually be attached to your monitor to power it....I think anyway!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Yeah I think Cathals right.
    The 220v coming from the psu should go to the 220v input on the ISO.
    And those pink and blue live and neutral wires coming from the 110v output side of the ISO that you attached to the psu should actually be attached to your monitor to power it....I think anyway!
    That makes total sense, the reason I have them in the psu though is that's where they where when I got this off Mitch. Can I just buy something to replace all this stuff? This old gear is so confusing!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Can i just take all that rubbish out and replace it with one of these?

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-230v-to-110v-300w-voltage-converter-vr05f

    Stick a 2 pin american plug on the 110v monitor cable plug it into this.

    Then plug this thing in and thats that?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,279 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    Note, that you have prob sent 220v into everything thats connected to the 110v wiring in the cab. What else is 110v in it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    Yeah I'd say that would work a charm.start from the beginning.

    You would have two AC plugs though which would piss me off big time
    Unless you jumped the 220v coming in to the psu and the step down.
    I'd get an arcade ISO step down from online myself. I remember seeing them some where!

    Anyway either way you'd be in business, I'd then look at adding the power switch and line filter back into the mix after.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    KeRbDoG wrote: »
    Note, that you have prob sent 220v into everything thats connected to the 110v wiring in the cab. What else is 110v in it?

    I'd say he's grand...only the monitor was 110v and the other side of the iso and that was disconnected wasn't it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,279 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    I'd say he's grand...only the monitor was 110v and the other side of the iso and that was disconnected wasn't it.

    Cool, I'd not use a transformer that's started to smoke. The isolation material on the coils of wire prob started to melt.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    quote="KeRbDoG;90342258"]Cool, I'd not use a transformer that's started to smoke. The isolation material on the coils of wire prob started to melt.[/quote]

    I had unplugged the monitor and chassis etc from the Iso and psu before I plugged it in in case something went wrong so they should be grand.

    Think I'll look at getting one of the new stepdowns online to save hassle.


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Whats the craic with the power switch and line filter? Do I need another power switch on the inside? What does the line filter do?

    Edit :don't say filter the line haha


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    You really don't need any of them but since you have them I'd use them. I removed the lot from the cocktail you gave me but I am meaning to put them back.
    Line filter just reduces noise from the ac in.
    I must also add the power switch wiring back because at the mo I just plug it in to turn it on.
    I always find this link really really useful to refer to when trying to get me head around arcade AC wiring.
    http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/acwiring.html


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Thats a great link actually, nice well explained guide on the wiring.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Well the step down seems to work, stuck an American plug on the monitor power cable, plugged it in and it came on. Only issue now seems to be a mad wobble of the entire screen i cant get rid of. now i only had it on for 15 minutes so far because i had to head off, any ideas what would cause that wobbling? seems to wobble left to right. not major screen scrolling or anything, just a slight wobble.

    EDIT: bit or reading online, and it might be the stepdown itself causing the wobble due to interferance with the screen.. hmm..

    IMG_20140517_131659.jpg

    20140517_131540.jpg


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Yep I was gonna say the transformer,
    picture looks nice!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Cool, I was thinking of trying to get some sort of metal sheet to cover it to see if that makes a difference.

    The monitor is great, no screen burn at all, delighted with it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,265 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    That monitor is gorgeous, nice one :)

    Definitely the step down causing interference. It's too close to it. I had interference on both monitors there recently and it was just the cabs being too close together. Had to move them apart.

    Can you not just keep the step down external and extend the wiring?


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Yeh i could do that alright, would be pretty easy just to extend the wire, just means id have a big box sitting around the floor. ideally id like to keep it inside but i guess it wouldn't be the end of the world if i couldn't!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,265 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Those ones aren't too big, can hide it underneath :)

    I think they generate a bit of heat. I haven't noticed too much with my ones, but probably best to not keep it in an enclosed space. Be awful if it burst into flames and took the whole cab with it :eek:

    The Airlink one I got is brilliant and powers two cabs, but it's almost twice the size as the one you're using.

    Can see it down the side of the SNK cab in this pic.

    If you're ever running a pair of cabs beside each other that need the same voltage definitely think of getting one of these.

    2014-02-27183606_zps7df4330d.jpg


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Do you know what "size" wire i need to extend that? its 110v going along it, need to buy some.


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  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    3 x 2.5mm flex


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    can i just cut an extension chord i have at home and use that or does it have to be a certain gauge or whatever for 110v?


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    yea just cut that,
    The size of the cable has nothing (well kinda) to do with the voltage.
    Its all about how much current the cable can handle.
    The socket circuits in your house are wired in 2.5mm cable and the lights 1.5mm.
    So your sockets will be fused at 20amps and the lights at 10amps at the fusebox.
    The cable can handle more than 20amps,bout 25/27 for the 2.5mm and half that for the 1.5mm
    This means that your breaker/fuse will go before the cable goes on fire.

    You could use a lighter cable like a 3 x 1.5 mm but make sure its fused correctly at the socket.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Cool, i just cut an extension cable so! Thanks a lot!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    Nice one, monitor looks great!.May be the same type I got of Mitch...chungwa is the tube make. Really sharp vivid pic on it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 677 ✭✭✭Mitchomagic


    Did you connect the degas button? Also picked up a few more monitors 220v if you wanted to change it


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Yep the degauss is working on it, i think it is just interference, im going to move the power thing away from the screen and see if it makes a difference first. if it doesnt ill give you a shout for a monitor. cheers


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,391 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    another quick question, im worried a bit (maybe wrongly) about earthing the monitor.

    Right now the monitor is wired up as follows.

    RGBVH from the monitor to the jamma harness to a 60-1board which is powered with a harddrive PSU. The only other things in the jamma harness is buttons\joysticks wired up, there is no power from an arcade psu wired to the harness.

    The monitor is powered with a 2wire cable with a 2 prong american plug, into the stepdown, with a 3prong normal plug on the other end powering that.

    Do i need to earth that monitor in any other way or will that be ok? im worried because the 2wires with the american 2 prong plug doesnt have a ground wire like our plugs do..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,725 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Did the monitor originally have an isolation transformer ? It may have a hot chassis so grounding it would be very bad..


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  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Deffo worth doing,
    you might get picture problems without and small shocks!

    edit!
    Just seen bandits post.
    Does the monitor have a spot for an earth?


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