Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi all! We have been experiencing an issue on site where threads have been missing the latest postings. The platform host Vanilla are working on this issue. A workaround that has been used by some is to navigate back a page or two to re-sync the thread and this will then show latest posts. Thanks, Mike.

roller door

  • 30-09-2012 11:31am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭


    anyone familiar with these
    the 4-core lead was pulled out during renovation

    is it just a matter of removing the 4-screws on front and re-wiring through rubber grommit?


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,602 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    M cebee wrote: »
    is it just a matter of removing the 4-screws on front and re-wiring through rubber grommit?

    I'm not sure to be honest. Open it up carefully and it should be obvious enough.

    I connected a roller shutter door that had a 4 core cable.

    It worked like this:
    Brown core, connect 230VAC to this for the door to close
    Black core, connect 230VAC to this for the door to open
    Blue core, neutral
    Green / yellow core, earth

    I don't know if this helps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,390 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Yea the motor has 2 windings, one to run each direction. The motor also usually has the limit switches built into the gearing assemblies.

    As the post above says, when power is applied to brown or black the motor should move in each direction till the limit is tripped.

    If the motor is fully one direction the limit switch should be broken and you should be able to use a multi meter to neutral to see what wire will send it the opposite way.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    ya i know

    i'm just wondering about the physical connection-is it behind the plate with 4 screws?
    it seems very narrow


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    i took off the cover-no luck there
    it seems like i has to be taken down to reconnect it


  • Site Banned Posts: 957 ✭✭✭leeomurchu


    M cebee wrote: »
    i took off the cover-no luck there
    it seems like i has to be taken down to reconnect it

    Strange set up there you'll have to get the side cover off to get to the terminals.

    There's usually a control box on the end of them never seen one installed that close to a wall but yes you probably will have to take it down as the motor was probably pre wired then connected into a junction box to break the switch wires.


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    leeomurchu wrote: »
    Strange set up there you'll have to get the side cover off to get to the terminals.

    There's usually a control box on the end of them never seen one installed that close to a wall but yes you probably will have to take it down as the motor was probably pre wired then connected into a junction box to break the switch wires.

    yes that's the way it looks

    there's no access to terminals in situ anyhow


  • Site Banned Posts: 957 ✭✭✭leeomurchu


    M cebee wrote: »
    yes that's the way it looks

    there's no access to terminals in situ anyhow

    That'll be a pain in the arse you didn't anticipate cna you bolt off the motor or will you have to remove all the slats to and essentially take it back to square 1 :eek:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    i wont be doin it


Advertisement