Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Shower pull cord...again!!

Options
  • 04-10-2012 9:20am
    #1
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭


    Bit of a problem with our pull cord for the shower. In the last year I've replaced it twice and now I'll be replacing it a third time.
    All connections are secure and tight from fuseboard to the pull cord and from the pull cord to the shower (Mira elite 2). The pull cord is a crabtree brand and is jammed and won't budge. Any intaught what the problem might be?


Comments

  • Options
    #2
    hunglikeaflee
    Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭hunglikeaflee


    The first thing I would say is, I don’t think the quality of Crabtree is near as good as it used to be.

    Next do you know the rating of the shower is it the 9.8Kw or the 10.8Kw unit. You could be at or over the 45A rating of the switch. 10.8A at 220V is 49Amps. Even the 9.8Kw is at the limit.
    I would recommend the MEM / Eaton 50A Pull Cord switch.


  • Options
    #3
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭Payton


    hunglikeaflee wrote: »
    The first thing I would say is, I don’t think the quality of Crabtree is near as good as it used to be.

    Next do you know the rating of the shower is it the 9.8Kw or the 10.8Kw unit. You could be at or over the 45A rating of the switch. 10.8A at 220V is 49Amps. Even the 9.8Kw is at the limit.
    I would recommend the MEM / Eaton 50A Pull Cord switch.
    I'll check the rating when I get home, cheers. I'll check my local wholesaler for those brands


  • Options
    #4
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    hunglikeaflee wrote: »
    The first thing I would say is, I don’t think the quality of Crabtree is near as good as it used to be.

    Next do you know the rating of the shower is it the 9.8Kw or the 10.8Kw unit. You could be at or over the 45A rating of the switch. 10.8A at 220V is 49Amps. Even the 9.8Kw is at the limit.
    I would recommend the MEM / Eaton 50A Pull Cord switch.
    those figures aren't quite right

    surprised the crabtree is giving trouble-i would think you can bring it back


  • Options
    #5
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭Payton


    The last 1 was Crabtree also. The shower would be used by 4 adults roughly 10 mins each shower. Could it be the rating?


  • Options
    #6
    leeomurchu
    Site Banned Posts: 957 ✭✭✭leeomurchu


    Are you using the pull chord to turn on the shower directly or are you pulling the chord and then pushing the button on the shower?


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭Payton


    leeomurchu wrote: »
    Are you using the pull chord to turn on the shower directly or are you pulling the chord and then pushing the button on the shower?
    Pulling the cord, then pressing the on/off button on the shower, and. in reverse to to turn off.


  • Options
    #8
    leeomurchu
    Site Banned Posts: 957 ✭✭✭leeomurchu


    Payton wrote: »
    Pulling the cord, then pressing the on/off button on the shower, and. in reverse to to turn off.

    it's strange too have to replace so many in a short period of time usually you might replace 1 in 3 years.

    do you know which version of the mira elite 2 you have. 9Kw ST is 9.8Kw?

    Most likely as said you have an underrated switch. Try pick up a 50A switch and it shouldn't give you any problems.

    Nobody is swinging out of the switch I assume :D


  • Options
    #9
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    what happened the last crabtree ,
    and the pull cord before that?


  • Options
    #10
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭Payton


    I think its an ST model.
    One switch just burnt out and this one, my son rang this morning and said it just won't pull as if its stuck.


  • Options
    #11
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,593 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    I would use a 45A MK DP isolator if I were doing this.

    If the isolator is switched on or off while the shower is running it expire prematurely. This applies to all makes (some more than others) due to the magnitude of the current.

    Therefore it is best to stop the shower before using the isolator.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #12
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    the st succeeded the elite2
    they're usually labelled with the 230/240 ratings-we're 230v here


  • Options
    #13
    bigjoe
    Registered Users Posts: 197 ✭✭bigjoe


    M cebee wrote: »
    those figures aren't quite right

    surprised the crabtree is giving trouble-i would think you can bring it back

    Those figures look fairly right to me or am I missing something.


  • Options
    #14
    bigjoe
    Registered Users Posts: 197 ✭✭bigjoe


    M cebee wrote: »
    the st succeeded the elite2
    they're usually labelled with the 230/240 ratings-we're 230v here

    Depending where and when you will see 220V a lot when you check.


  • Options
    #15
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭Payton


    M cebee wrote: »
    the st succeeded the elite2
    they're usually labelled with the 230/240 ratings-we're 230v here
    I'll double check when I get home and get the correct model.


  • Options
    #16
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭Payton


    2011 wrote: »
    I would use a 45A MK DP isolator if I were doing this.

    If the isolator is switched on or off while the shower is running it expire prematurely. This applies to all makes (some more than others) due to the magnitude of the current.

    Therefore it is best to stop the shower before using the isolator.
    Is that a big job if will I have to get a sparks in?


  • Options
    #17
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    leeomurchu wrote: »
    it's strange too have to replace so many in a short period of time usually you might replace 1 in 3 years.

    do you know which version of the mira elite 2 you have. 9Kw ST is 9.8Kw?

    Most likely as said you have an underrated switch. Try pick up a 50A switch and it shouldn't give you any problems.

    Nobody is swinging out of the switch I assume :D

    I think its likely a mechanical problem within the switch unless loose connections have damaged it. I would imagine most shower users switch on the isolator, then the shower, then use shower, turn it off, and then turn off isolator.

    Them pull chords just dont have the mechanical design for switching a 40 amp mechanism via a string every time the shower is used.

    I have a wall switch one on my shower, which I leave on all the time. Maybe just leave the pull chord isolator switched on all the time when you replace it, only switching off for work on the shower unit.


  • Options
    #18
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,593 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Payton wrote: »
    Is that a big job if will I have to get a sparks in?
    It is not a big job. An MK 45A isolator is expensive to buy, but in the long run it will be cheaper.

    Is it hard to do?
    Not that hard, but this depends on your ability.
    Will it take long? It should take about 20 minutes.

    The important thing is to have very good connections. They must be tight.

    If in doubt get a registered electrical contractor to do the work.


  • Options
    #19
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    bigjoe wrote: »
    M cebee wrote: »
    those figures aren't quite right

    surprised the crabtree is giving trouble-i would think you can bring it back

    Those figures look fairly right to me or am I missing something.
    i doubt there's a 220v or 230v 10.8kw
    elite 2


  • Options
    #20
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,593 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    I have a wall switch one on my shower, which I leave on all the time. Maybe just leave the pull chord isolator switched on all the time when you replace it, only switching off for work on the shower unit.
    +1
    This is exactly what I do.
    There are two schools of thought on this.

    A very experienced and senior electrical engineer that Stoner I know feels it is safest to turn the isolator on and off as the shower is required. He goes through an isolator every year or two. I argue that this presents a higher risk, so we have agreed to disagree.


  • Options
    #21
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    i would say no need to isolate shower after use


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #22
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭Payton


    Ok just home and its a Mira elite st rating is 230v-240v and 9.0kw.
    I'll have to run extra cable to put a wall mounted switch up. So just a replacement pull cord for now. A 50A pull cord?


  • Options
    #23
    meercat
    Registered Users Posts: 4,745 ✭✭✭meercat


    Payton wrote: »
    Ok just home and its a Mira elite st rating is 230v-240v and 9.0kw.
    I'll have to run extra cable to put a wall mounted switch up. So just a replacement pull cord for now. A 50A pull cord?

    http://www.litelec.com/metal-halide-sodium-mercury-lamps/290-click-polar-dp-50amp-shower-isolator-pull-switch-with-neon.html

    i instruct most clients to leave the switch in the on position and only use it as an isolator


  • Options
    #24
    leeomurchu
    Site Banned Posts: 957 ✭✭✭leeomurchu


    Payton wrote: »
    Ok just home and its a Mira elite st rating is 230v-240v and 9.0kw.
    I'll have to run extra cable to put a wall mounted switch up. So just a replacement pull cord for now. A 50A pull cord?

    A 40A pull chord switch will do you and just do as others have said and leave it in the on position.

    Try MK this time around instead of crabtree.

    The shower will only be drawing somewhere between 37A and 41A (41 being unlikely the esb are trying to standardize it at 230v it creeps toward 240 in some areas below in others)

    I do the same myself there's no real need to isolate it unless you're working on or replacing the shower.


  • Options
    #25
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭Payton


    I got a 45A pull cord from Kellihers, no name on it.
    One thing that did concern me was the neutral (on the mains side) was burnt and the insulation scorched yet all the terminals were tight.


  • Options
    #26
    meercat
    Registered Users Posts: 4,745 ✭✭✭meercat


    Payton wrote: »
    I got a 45A pull cord from Kellihers, no name on it.
    One thing that did concern me was the neutral (on the mains side) was burnt and the insulation scorched yet all the terminals were tight.
    Problem stems from the switch itself causing heat and marking as you describe


  • Options
    #27
    Payton
    Registered Users Posts: 1,684 ✭✭✭Payton


    meercat wrote: »
    Payton wrote: »
    I got a 45A pull cord from Kellihers, no name on it.
    One thing that did concern me was the neutral (on the mains side) was burnt and the insulation scorched yet all the terminals were tight.
    Problem stems from the switch itself causing heat and marking as you describe
    Thanks meercat, some piece of mind.


  • Options
    #28
    JOHNPT
    Closed Accounts Posts: 517 ✭✭✭JOHNPT


    Any pullchord switch I have changed that was faulty the problem was always the strands of the 6sq were not twisted tightly together firstly - this causes excess heat which is usually why switch becomes faulty - i think this is a more likely cause not the make of the switch.


  • Options
    #29
    leeomurchu
    Site Banned Posts: 957 ✭✭✭leeomurchu


    Just be sure when you terminate the switch that there's no copper exposed and connections are good and tight use a screw driver bigger than a phase tester it'll give you a bit more bite.

    Shouldn't be any issues for you to do it yourself the neutral may have just been loose in the terminal and possibly exaggerated when it was screwed up onto the box. Probably the cause of your switch sticking if it was arcing.

    Be sure to put some earth sleeving on the earth wire just incase they're bare copper at the min.


  • Options
    #30
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    JOHNPT wrote: »
    Any pullchord switch I have changed that was faulty the problem was always the strands of the 6sq were not twisted tightly together firstly - this causes excess heat which is usually why switch becomes faulty - i think this is a more likely cause not the make of the switch.

    Sometimes pullchords overheat even with good connections, the contacts being switched regularly probably just dont make contact as well after a time. Once there is then any overheating at all, the deterioration accelerates.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #31
    .G.
    Registered Users Posts: 5,415 ✭✭✭.G.


    Payton wrote: »
    I got a 45A pull cord from Kellihers, no name on it.
    One thing that did concern me was the neutral (on the mains side) was burnt and the insulation scorched yet all the terminals were tight.

    It's likely to be ViMark. Its usually on it but hard to spot.

    Anyway as others have said,I'd leave the isolator on all the time and use the on/off button on the shower alone


Advertisement