I want 110v socket in my shed

fiestaman

Hi, i have 220v in my shed and i would like to put in a 110v socket. do i need some kind of transformer to convert the power to the socket. where could i get this??

TheBody

You could just buy a transformer from most hardware stores and plug it into your regular socket. One like this:

freddyuk

What are you running? A shaver socket will give you 110v for about €20

Bruthal

freddyuk wrote: »

What are you running? A shaver socket will give you 110v for about €20

Its likely the op will be using 110v items requiring more power than an electric shaver takes. The 110v transformer is the likely solution.

fiestaman

i will be using anglegrinder and saws. i want a seperate plug on the wall for them to plug into, i dont want to use a 110v box plugged into a 220v socket.

Bruthal

fiestaman wrote: »

i will be using anglegrinder and saws. i want a seperate plug on the wall for them to plug into, i dont want to use a 110v box plugged into a 220v socket.

No matter what you do, you will need a transformer. A transformer like the one in the photo earlier can be used, but with output wired up to yellow 110v sockets on the wall.

The transformer can then be out into an enclosure or press, ceiling space, or anywhere tidy etc, and the 230v side be supplied via an isolator with neon up beside the 110v socket also. So switch on the isolator for power in the 110v sockets. It can easily be done nice and neatly by someone competent in such matters.

fiestaman

robbie7730 wrote: »

No matter what you do, you will need a transformer. A transformer like the one in the photo earlier can be used, but with output wired up to yellow 110v sockets on the wall.

The transformer can then be out into an enclosure or press, ceiling space, or anywhere tidy etc, and the 230v side be supplied via an isolator with neon up beside the 110v socket also. So switch on the isolator for power in the 110v sockets. It can easily be done nice and neatly by someone competent in such matters.

Thanks thats what i was advised to do . Wire transformer from swith board through isolater, then bring cable from.trandformer to socket om wall. Transformer box will b in attic.

Bruthal

fiestaman wrote: »

Thanks thats what i was advised to do . Wire transformer from swith board through isolater, then bring cable from.trandformer to socket om wall. Transformer box will b in attic.

Yea the simple way is to put a 13amp socket in the attic to plug the transformer into, and that 13amp socket is supplied from the isolator.

Then a 110v plug into the transformer, with 2.5 twin and earth cable from that down to the 110v socket on the wall. Ideally the 2.5 would be bigger if the transformer was a 3.3kva and ging to be fully loaded, but that would seem unlikely.

A neon is recommended on the isolator so you will be less likely to leave the unloaded transformer on all the time.

2011

+1 to Robbie's advice.
I would also add:
1) I have found that 9" grinders trip out many 110V transformers due to high starting currents, so go for a large one (3kVA).
2) Turning on the isolator frequently causes the RCD to trip. Perhaps you can install this locally ?
3) Many 110V site transformers are only rated for short duration use.

TPM

+1 to robbie and 2011
I have used a 9" grinder on a small 1kva continuous (1.5kva max) traffo, this is ok for light work and/or short times but is not recommended and will trip the overload. but the proper one 3.3kva weighs a ton to be dragging around.
The bigger the better for fixed applications as you dont need to be moving it but I wouldnt put it too far out of the way in case you ever need to reset the overload.

Also as robbie said bigger than 2.5 T&E would be better if you go for a 3.3 as you are talking 30A or there abouts

TPM

TPM wrote: »

Also as robbie said bigger than 2.5 T&E would be better if you go for a 3.3 as you are talking 30A or there abouts

I thought you were recommending 3.3mm T&E
you could ring the socket circuit in 2.5mm and put a 32amp breaker on it

M cebee

i'd assume the overload on the portable trafo is designed to protect a 2.5 flexible (anyhow) lead connected to 16amp socket

-it should be anyhow

not a problem with fixed trafos and 110v distribution board with 16amp breakers anyhow

TPM

urbanledge wrote: »

I thought you were recommending 3.3mm T&E
you could ring the socket circuit in 2.5mm and put a 32amp breaker on it

Sorry left out the kva.
It could be trick finding, 3.3 T&E lol

M cebee

urbanledge wrote: »

I thought you were recommending 3.3mm T&E
you could ring the socket circuit in 2.5mm and put a 32amp breaker on it

not sure that's allowed in general
without fusing down at each point