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Best option for filling crack between worktop and wall?

  • 01-11-2012 3:20pm
    #1
    pickarooney
    Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 35,478 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    We've installed a couple of worktops in the kitchen (flush with one corner) and because the walls are not particularly level there is about a 5mm gap between the worktop and the wall much of the way along the back and side. I'm just wondering what the best option to fill the gap would be. Mastic is a bit messy and the gap is a wee bit too wide for it to work effectively.

    I was thinking of some kind of spongey adhesive tape but I don't know if it's feasible or what it's called.


Comments

  • #2
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    pickarooney wrote: »
    We've installed a couple of worktops in the kitchen (flush with one corner) and because the walls are not particularly level there is about a 5mm gap between the worktop and the wall much of the way along the back and side. I'm just wondering what the best option to fill the gap would be. Mastic is a bit messy and the gap is a wee bit too wide for it to work effectively.

    I was thinking of some kind of spongey adhesive tape but I don't know if it's feasible or what it's called.


    Masking tape on the wall and also on the worktop.

    A 6-8mm bead of silicone or tech 7 and bobs your uncle.

    Smooth it off with a wet finger or a wet silicone smoother pad.

    Simples.:)


    PS-Water/moisture will get into that crack over time,with anything else apart from silicone sealer/tech 7.

    If you have a laminate worktop,then the water/moisture can cause it to bubble up and bloat,as water and chipboard acts like a big sponge and the chipboard expands when it gets wet/damp.

    Silicone/Tech 7 all the way here.;)


  • #3
    Cerco
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,041 ✭✭✭Cerco


    If the gap extends along the worktop by a significant amount , you might be better off scribing the worktop, removing it and cut away to match the scribing. So you cut the worktop to match the shape of the wall.

    It is much the same technique as used when fitting skirting boards.

    The end result will be much neater and more effective.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HN-cvSEqt1U


  • #4
    pickarooney
    Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 35,478 Mod ✭✭✭✭pickarooney


    I scribed it as shown in the video and was pleasantly surprised. It's not perfect but decent enough for a first attempt. The gap is much smaller and more or less even now so I suppose silicone is the only option now. I'm just wondering if there's any easy way to remove silicone from a wall afterwards (we'll be moving out eventually and will need to take everything out).


  • #5
    jameshayes
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,772 ✭✭✭jameshayes


    pickarooney wrote: »
    I scribed it as shown in the video and was pleasantly surprised. It's not perfect but decent enough for a first attempt. The gap is much smaller and more or less even now so I suppose silicone is the only option now. I'm just wondering if there's any easy way to remove silicone from a wall afterwards (we'll be moving out eventually and will need to take everything out).

    It'll come off with a stanley blade handy enough & a bit of sandpaper to remove any residue - not too bad


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