paint for iroko windows

johnstown

Hi, I have iroko timber exterior windows/doors. When I bought them the salesman said to paint with yatch varnish straight away which I did. The varnish seems to peel away/evaporate within a year on certain sections of the windows. What should I Use. I would prefer to maintain the timber look.

I gather oil would have been a better option than varnish but too late now.

Thanks

fergal.b

I use a lot of iroko in my boats and in most cases I coat it in epoxy first and then varnish, if I was to do it with just varnish I would add 10% thinners to the first coat so it soaks in to the wood a bit giving it a better bond. Make sure the varnish you use has uv protection and is not the type for indoor use I use "interlux schooner" and find it very good.

woodturner

Iroko like any Teak is very oily. That could be why the varnish didn't adhere properly.

1865

You need to get a paint /varnish that is specifically formulated for use on Iroko and also be careful when sanding it is as the dust from Iroko can be very irritating.

cardwizzard

Varnish unlike paint has no UV protection. Each year the varnish will lose 1 coat via the sun.

This is why the process must be repeated and repeated. Multiple coats on the woodwork, followed by a coat annually on the timber is the way to go. PITA i know but its the best option you have.

fergal.b

cardwizzard wrote: »

Varnish unlike paint has no UV protection. Each year the varnish will lose 1 coat via the sun.

This is why the process must be repeated and repeated. Multiple coats on the woodwork, followed by a coat annually on the timber is the way to go. PITA i know but its the best option you have.

The yacht varnish I use has UV protection it's been on my deck for the last 3 years and no problems yet.

cardwizzard

Beautiful work.

How many coats of varnish have you on that? I worked on a ship yard in Holland, and we applied 16(sixteen) coats prior to the customer recieving the vessel, and yearly maintenance. It should be pointed out that these were in the water 24/7.

Again the UV protected in varnish is really something of a myth. Sweet boat you have, must give you a lot of enjoyment.

fergal.b

Cheers, I have 3 coats of epoxy and about 6 of varnish, God I hope there is some sort of UV protection in it I don't fancy doing the epoxy again:D

It should do exactly what it say's on the tin



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EhBenDisDonc

I use Sikkens Cetol Marine (teak) on my boat's teak rubbing strakes. It lasts well, and can easily be touched up locally if needs be. It goes on like an oil or woodstain, and will not peel.
Previously, I used Le Tonkinois. It broke my heart.

cardwizzard

EhBenDisDonc wrote: »

I use Sikkens Cetol Marine (teak) on my boat's teak rubbing strakes. It lasts well, and can easily be touched up locally if needs be. It goes on like an oil or woodstain, and will not peel.
Previously, I used Le Tonkinois. It broke my heart.

Cetol is a very good product. Haven't used the marine but i'd trust it because who makes it.

In fact OP Sikkens do a door and window product which would be ideal for you. Cetol Filter 7.
http://www.duluxtrade.ie/products/sikkens/index.jsp

fergal.b

cardwizzard wrote: »

Beautiful work.

How many coats of varnish have you on that? I worked on a ship yard in Holland, and we applied 16(sixteen) coats prior to the customer recieving the vessel, and yearly maintenance. It should be pointed out that these were in the water 24/7.

Again the UV protected in varnish is really something of a myth. Sweet boat you have, must give you a lot of enjoyment.

As you say you worked in Holland with varnish I was just wondering if you ever used de-ijssel-coatings I have heard good things about "Double coat Double UV" and was thinking of giving it a go as it's meant to have a very tough finish and can be rolled on.

cardwizzard

fergal.b wrote: »

As you say you worked in Holland with varnish I was just wondering if you ever used de-ijssel-coatings I have heard good things about "Double coat Double UV" and was thinking of giving it a go as it's meant to have a very tough finish and can be rolled on.

No Fergal, have never used that product although I've heard of it, and a colleague in the UK seems to use it quite a bit.

Was on their website and its only brush or roller application. I should say im not a boat painter, just something I did a while back and really enjoyed. I sprayed 99% of the stuff we did, with AAA or a HVLP.

Just a few points on varnish that ppl might use. Never shake it prior to use. Always stir. Opposite of James Bond;). Shaking can leave little air bubbles in the finish which is never pleasant. If you are buying of a North European company, usually their best product, or the one they are most proud of will end in Lac, Lak, Lux etc. The reasoning goes back a few years im told. Jachtlac by De IJssel here for example was in my guess their best before Double Coat came along. Dulux Paint is not a good example however :rolleyes:.

Try and dampen a floor if possible before finish work. This keeps dust down. 24hrs after varnishing lightly buff the finish with 0000 steelwool, makes a difference as it will provide a uniform finish by removing any unwanted particles that got in there. Might be a bit much for doing a few windows OP, but worth a lash.

johnstown

Fergal... wow nice boat.

So basically people reckon I should use either Cetol Filter 7 or else interlux schooner.

Interestingly, I was reading the back of the tin on my Ronseal Yatch varnish and it says that it is not recommended on tropical hardwoods, i.e. teak, mahogony or Iroko. I rang the Ronseal technical support phone number to see what they would say... i.e. have they a product that I could use. The lady I spoke to said I should get a paint stripper and clear the varnish off, then use the oil!!!!. Would this be a runner? If it worked, it would certainly save me a lot of work. Would the paint stripper not damage seals, glue etc and maybe leave marks on the window frame?

All very confusing.

fergal.b

You should be ok with paint stripper just wash it off any seals before it gets a chance to do any damage, if you are worried about it try using thinners instead to clean off the varnish. As your windows have been varnished it may have socked into the wood sealing it so now if you go to oil it the oil may not be able to penetrate it and stay wet a tacky collecting dirt "just a thought"

Another option might be this, I have never used it but if it does what it says it could be perfect.
http://marinestore.co.uk/International_Woodskin_Varnish_750ml.html



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