B.E.R. Improvements

senordingdong

Just moved to a new place and found it to be quite chilly but after a few days of blasting the heat, I'm finding the place to warm up albeit slower than I had hoped.
I requested the BER cert and found the place to have a c3 rating. Not the best but not the worst either.

So I'm looking at a few thrifty ways of improving the rating, so far I've decided to put heavier curtains over all the windows and front door too, I've also bought one of those balloons you can use to block the chimney and stop the down draft, and I'm looking at these fancy vent membranes that allow the carbon monoxide out but stop the heat escaping.

Also someone recommended that I turn off the radiators in all the none essential rooms like the spare bedroom and the bathrooms. I'm not sure about this one, as I think the cold vacuums in those rooms would suck the heat out of other rooms?

Anybody any other non drastic pointers to boost the heat retention?

Victor

senordingdong wrote: »

Also someone recommended that I turn off the radiators in all the none essential rooms like the spare bedroom and the bathrooms. I'm not sure about this one, as I think the cold vacuums in those rooms would suck the heat out of other rooms?

You realise that those rooms will still be full of air? Air that has been heated slightly, so that it doesn't lose a lot of heat to the outside, but neither do they gain a lot of heat from the inside.

Keep doors and windows shut, but allow sufficient ventilation, especially in kitchens and bathrooms and anywhere combustion (fire) takes place.

senordingdong

Well yes, ofcourse I realise it's not a real vacuum but I meant the absence of warm or heated air would cause the warm or heated air from the landing to go there? Just a thought.

I think the biggest problem is the roof, how do I check the quality of the roof insulation?

langdang

I've rented a few of your average Celtic Tiger 3bed semi-d's.
So called B3 rating in two cases, you could fly a kite indoors in some of them on a windy day. IMHO the BER doesn't mean much unless there was a pressure test on that actual house, if they just calculated it off the plans or tested one of the houses the builder kept for himself in that estate then you might find it's not C3 at all that you have. You could be losing heat through all sorts of air gaps or shoddy building shortcuts.

nemo32

I am in the same boat as OP.
The wind whistles through our bedroom window so I think we either need new windows or to at least get them resealed.

Is there a company in Dublin/Meth area that specialises in this (resealing/insulation improvements), does anyone know?

donalg1

I like the sound of the vents in your OP are they standard now or where would I go about getting these as I have to change the ones in my own home.

senordingdong

Is the B.E.R. cert a bit of a cowboy affair?

I mean can you get an A rating if 'the face fits'?

Cuddlesworth

senordingdong wrote: »

Is the B.E.R. cert a bit of a cowboy affair?

I mean can you get an A rating if 'the face fits'?

Yes. Its very subjective and involves a huge amount of guess work.

Rasmus

senordingdong wrote: »

Just moved to a new place and found it to be quite chilly but after a few days of blasting the heat, I'm finding the place to warm up albeit slower than I had hoped.
I requested the BER cert and found the place to have a c3 rating. Not the best but not the worst either.

So I'm looking at a few thrifty ways of improving the rating, so far I've decided to put heavier curtains over all the windows and front door too, I've also bought one of those balloons you can use to block the chimney and stop the down draft, and I'm looking at these fancy vent membranes that allow the carbon monoxide out but stop the heat escaping.

Also someone recommended that I turn off the radiators in all the none essential rooms like the spare bedroom and the bathrooms. I'm not sure about this one, as I think the cold vacuums in those rooms would suck the heat out of other rooms?

Anybody any other non drastic pointers to boost the heat retention?

Why do you want to elevate the BER rating - do you just mean make it more heat efficient?
Turning off the radiator in the spare room won't make a difference to the warmth or insulation, but keeping the door and curtains closed will. Anywhere there is a draught, you could roll up at towel and put it at the base of the door to that room. For uninsulated windows, a good tip is to cover and line the glass (to frame) with bubble wrap - it looks silly but really keeps the heat in.
I wouldn't mess with the chimney or any device that claims to 'let the carbon monoxide out'. Sounds dodge.
C3 rating isn't too bad. That is the average rating I'd say for an Irish house.

senordingdong

Cuddlesworth wrote: »

Yes. Its very subjective and involves a huge amount of guess work.

Christ this country would break your heart.

Rasmus wrote:

Why do you want to elevate the BER rating - do you just mean make it more heat efficient?

In a way, mostly I don't want to have to spend a fortune heating the place. But as it's not mine, I can't go tearing down walls to line them with insulation, replacing windows or installing solar panels.

So I'm looking at thrifty options, like your one about the bubblewrap, which sounds great.

Ray Palmer

Cuddlesworth wrote: »

Yes. Its very subjective and involves a huge amount of guess work.

It's worse than that the hard calculations don't consider age. A 30 year old radiator does not remain functioning like a new one.

Any link to the membrane for the vents.

On another note if you close off a room and switch of heating in it you are inviting damp and mould. You need to constantly air the room

senordingdong

Ray Palmer wrote: »

It's worse than that the hard calculations don't consider age. A 30 year old radiator does not remain functioning like a new one.

Any link to the membrane for the vents.

On another note if you close off a room and switch of heating in it you are inviting damp and mould. You need to constantly air the room

Ok, but those rooms have air vents and small vents on the windows. They should surely be good enough to air the room out? If not, I could open the window every now and again during the day time?

Ray Palmer wrote:

Any link to the membrane for the vents?

Can't find a link to these fancy membranes that I heard of, they might have been an urban myth.
I hate to go against all good common sense on this one but I may have to resort to bubblewrap or something. These 'vents' are literally just huge bores in the wall with a grate over it.

connundrum

I do not work for nor do I endorse this site, but it has given me some ideas.

It'll be early next year before we can afford to upgrade our windows and doors so I'm also looking at thrifty options.

http://www.cosyhomestore.ie/

Ray Palmer

senordingdong wrote: »

Ok, but those rooms have air vents and small vents on the windows. They should surely be good enough to air the room out? If not, I could open the window every now and again during the day time?

Can't find a link to these fancy membranes that I heard of, they might have been an urban myth.
I hate to go against all good common sense on this one but I may have to resort to bubblewrap or something. These 'vents' are literally just huge bores in the wall with a grate over it.

Most vents are pretty much holes in the wall. Baffles don't really make much difference.
No the vents will not be enough to stop damp in an unheated room in a warm house. The will actually help bring moisture in.

senordingdong

I just bought a big bag of something called glaze sealer.
It's basically sheets of plastic that you cut to size over the window, then use a hair drier to shrink it to size.

Will let you all know how I get on when I fit it.

quietsailor

your talking about something like this off Ebay

senordingdong

quietsailor wrote: »

your talking about something like this off Ebay

That's them.
Not really feeling any kind of difference, gona line the windows with foam inserts too.


Anyone else use either of these?