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Preparing for a trip to the Arctic

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  • 18-11-2012 12:10pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 15,117 ✭✭✭✭


    Hi folks,

    I'm off to Northern Sweden in four weeks for a 6-day mushing trip on the Arctic Circle. It isn't something I've ever done before, and I've never even been skiing, but I do quite enjoy the cold weather. I've been researching the clothing/gear that I will need, and was looking if anyone here would have any useful tips or advice based on your own experiences. I've listed below the equipment that I believe I will need to purchase, I'm based in Dublin but would be looking to buy online if the value is better (provided it would arrive in time, of course). Temperatures should be ranging from -5 to -15 or thereabouts.
    • 2 x Base Layers (preferably wool), to increase warmth but allow sweat
    • 2 x Secondary Layers (for warmth/insulation but to allow movement)
    • 1 x Third Layer, to break the wind
    • 1 x Fourth Layer, for extra insulation.
    • Windproof hat with ear coverage
    • 2 x Wool or fleece gloves
    • 2 x Liner Socks
    • 2 x Warm Wool Socks
    • 2 x Long, warm wool/synthetic underwear
    • 1 x Windproof bottoms
    • 1 x Polarised Sunglasses
    • Sunscreen/Lipbalm

    Any help is appreciated!


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 21,464 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    I did more or less the same thing 5 years ago as it happens, although we didn't get quite as high as the Artic circle. Which company are you going with?

    In my case, I'm an avid hillwalker and skier so had a good amount of outdoor clothing and equipment including the base layers and other stuff (hats, gloves, socks) already, and took my skiing jacket and salopettes as well. The guide took one look at them and just laughed :) I guess they're used to this kind of thing, so they actually had a good selection of outer gear in various sizes which we could borrow for the trip. So I borrowed a big heavy jacket, waterproof salopette style trousers and most importantly, some heavy boots with a big thick felt lining. Everything else I used was my own. To be honest, as far as the outermost layer goes, although I'd imagine you'd be able to get the stuff here or online if you tried, the use you'd get out of them the rest of the time would be minimal, unless you're planning on doing lots of similar trips. Maybe it's worth asking them if you can do the same as I did, and hire/rent/borrow some of the more expensive outer gear.

    Now, on my trip (we went in early February) it wasn't actually that cold, only -10 or so, for the first few days, and given that you're working quite hard all day (more on that later!), I actually didn't feel that cold. The last day or two was bitterly cold though .. it got down to the low -20's, and the last night was -36. We did have a couple of blizzards which brought down the windchill a lot, but otherwise it was a very dry cold, not like the damp cold you get here.

    The trip was great, but it was tough. The dogs will happily pull you along on the flat without you putting in too much effort, but if there's any kind of slope you'll end up either pushing along with one foot, or even getting off the sled completely and pushing it uphill. Going downhill is the most challenging part, especially on narrow forest tracks, as the dogs go hell for leather, and it's all you can do to hang on and stop the sled sliding into the trees, and/or running into the back of the dogs legs (not a good idea!) If you fall off, don't imagine for one moment that the dogs will stop and wait for you either :)

    The other thing that was hammered into us was that the dogs always come first, so when you get back after a long day and just feel like a nice warm cup of tea, forget it. So when you get back it's unharness the dogs, tie them up to a line, put down straw, feed them and then (very shortly afterwards!) shovel up what comes out the other end. Then tidy the sled away, go and fetch water (not always easy) and then you can think about yourself. Same again first thing in the morning.

    Like I said, it was tough, and I ached in places I never knew I had when I got back, but it was a real experience. The dogs were great, all with their own very special characters, some easy going, some just trouble from day one getting tangled up in the lines and stuff, but they got me through it all including one very scary moment when the sled started to sink at the edge of a frozen lake.

    Good luck, and if you want nay more info just let me know.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,117 ✭✭✭✭MrJoeSoap


    Alun wrote: »
    I did more or less the same thing 5 years ago as it happens, although we didn't get quite as high as the Artic circle. Which company are you going with?

    In my case, I'm an avid hillwalker and skier so had a good amount of outdoor clothing and equipment including the base layers and other stuff (hats, gloves, socks) already, and took my skiing jacket and salopettes as well. The guide took one look at them and just laughed :) I guess they're used to this kind of thing, so they actually had a good selection of outer gear in various sizes which we could borrow for the trip. So I borrowed a big heavy jacket, waterproof salopette style trousers and most importantly, some heavy boots with a big thick felt lining. Everything else I used was my own. To be honest, as far as the outermost layer goes, although I'd imagine you'd be able to get the stuff here or online if you tried, the use you'd get out of them the rest of the time would be minimal, unless you're planning on doing lots of similar trips. Maybe it's worth asking them if you can do the same as I did, and hire/rent/borrow some of the more expensive outer gear.

    Now, on my trip (we went in early February) it wasn't actually that cold, only -10 or so, for the first few days, and given that you're working quite hard all day (more on that later!), I actually didn't feel that cold. The last day or two was bitterly cold though .. it got down to the low -20's, and the last night was -36. We did have a couple of blizzards which brought down the windchill a lot, but otherwise it was a very dry cold, not like the damp cold you get here.

    The trip was great, but it was tough. The dogs will happily pull you along on the flat without you putting in too much effort, but if there's any kind of slope you'll end up either pushing along with one foot, or even getting off the sled completely and pushing it uphill. Going downhill is the most challenging part, especially on narrow forest tracks, as the dogs go hell for leather, and it's all you can do to hang on and stop the sled sliding into the trees, and/or running into the back of the dogs legs (not a good idea!) If you fall off, don't imagine for one moment that the dogs will stop and wait for you either :)

    The other thing that was hammered into us was that the dogs always come first, so when you get back after a long day and just feel like a nice warm cup of tea, forget it. So when you get back it's unharness the dogs, tie them up to a line, put down straw, feed them and then (very shortly afterwards!) shovel up what comes out the other end. Then tidy the sled away, go and fetch water (not always easy) and then you can think about yourself. Same again first thing in the morning.

    Like I said, it was tough, and I ached in places I never knew I had when I got back, but it was a real experience. The dogs were great, all with their own very special characters, some easy going, some just trouble from day one getting tangled up in the lines and stuff, but they got me through it all including one very scary moment when the sled started to sink at the edge of a frozen lake.

    Good luck, and if you want nay more info just let me know.

    Thanks a million, was not expecting such a detailed response so quickly. The company I'm going with are The Silent Way, a family run business based in Umnas. I'm flying into Hemavan and then on to Umnas. Not quite at the Arctic circle but I think we may get there on our tour. I believe that they will have a lot of the equipment already there (Parka, boots, "over-pants"), so I may take them up on some of those. It will certainly make packing a lot handier too.

    I've been reading up on the mushing, and hope I have a fair idea what to expect. But thanks for the insight, it will make the week a bit less of a culture-shock! Looking forward to pushing myself physically and hopefully getting a chance to see the Northern Lights.

    What company did you use, out of interest? And what part of the world?


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,464 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Good choice! I went with The Silent Way too, so you shouldn't have any bother borrowing the outer gear like I did. They were very warm and bulky, so like you say you'll be able to save a bit on volume when packing.

    Kenneth is a great guide, and really knows his stuff. He really loves his dogs too, and will be keeping a very wary eye on you to make sure you look after them properly! The dogs are all very friendly and 'people trained' and not at all snappy as I had expected .. I'd happily have taken one of my dogs home with me at the end as a pet. You'll need to be very 'hands on' with the dogs at all time, putting their harnesses on in the morning for example, so one of the first things that will happen when you get there is that Kenneth will let you all into the dog enclosure and let the dogs out. They'll all come bounding up to you, sniff you, jump up at you, lick your face and sometimes even pee on your leg (!) if they really like you! Kenneth will be observing you all during this and seeing how you interact with them. He'll base his choice of which dogs you get allocated depending on that. People who are a bit wary will get quieter older dogs, whereas the real 'doggy people' such as myself get some of the more boisterous younger dogs.

    By the way, nothing quite prepares you for the first day when you're standing precariously on the back of the sled, 30+ dogs all howling like crazy, you let the anchor loose and the dogs let rip ... they might not go that fast in the grand scheme of things, but the acceleration from standstill is something else. I pretty much guarantee you'll fall off within the first 5 minutes :D

    Anyway I'm sure you'll have a guaranteed great time, with great food (mostly precooked by Catrina his wife.) Reindeer kebabs are a culinary experience not to be missed! Say hi to Kenneth and Catrina from me :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,117 ✭✭✭✭MrJoeSoap


    Alun wrote: »
    Good choice! I went with The Silent Way too, so you shouldn't have any bother borrowing the outer gear like I did. They were very warm and bulky, so like you say you'll be able to save a bit on volume when packing.

    Kenneth is a great guide, and really knows his stuff. He really loves his dogs too, and will be keeping a very wary eye on you to make sure you look after them properly! The dogs are all very friendly and 'people trained' and not at all snappy as I had expected .. I'd happily have taken one of my dogs home with me at the end as a pet. You'll need to be very 'hands on' with the dogs at all time, putting their harnesses on in the morning for example, so one of the first things that will happen when you get there is that Kenneth will let you all into the dog enclosure and let the dogs out. They'll all come bounding up to you, sniff you, jump up at you, lick your face and sometimes even pee on your leg (!) if they really like you! Kenneth will be observing you all during this and seeing how you interact with them. He'll base his choice of which dogs you get allocated depending on that. People who are a bit wary will get quieter older dogs, whereas the real 'doggy people' such as myself get some of the more boisterous younger dogs.

    By the way, nothing quite prepares you for the first day when you're standing precariously on the back of the sled, 30+ dogs all howling like crazy, you let the anchor loose and the dogs let rip ... they might not go that fast in the grand scheme of things, but the acceleration from standstill is something else. I pretty much guarantee you'll fall off within the first 5 minutes :D

    Anyway I'm sure you'll have a guaranteed great time, with great food (mostly precooked by Catrina his wife.) Reindeer kebabs are a culinary experience not to be missed! Say hi to Kenneth and Catrina from me :)

    Great stuff, wasn't expecting to get this much info from a thread on boards.ie! The gift that keeps on giving... :)

    I've watched all the video's on YouTube of The Silent Way, the dogs look fantastic and I'm quite certain I'll be spending most of my time with them. I loved the video below of the dogs getting ready to leave the yard. The noise when they kick off is fantastic! I'll be working extra hard to make sure I don't fall off in the first five minutes now.



    Did you bring a camera with you? I'm between two minds as to whether to bring a DSLR or a compact.

    Also, how was the accommodation on your trip? Mountain lodges and cabins all the way I assume?


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,464 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Yes, the dogs make quite a racket just before they set off. What usually happens is that once all the dogs are harnessed up and connected up to the sleds, Kenneth walks down the line from front to back to check everything is OK and that everyone is ready to go. The very second he turns back around to head to the top of the line where his sled is, all the dogs just start howling like crazy because they know that they're ready to go. It takes some effort to prevent them from tearing the snow anchor out of the ground in their enthusiasm to get going. Don't let anyone tell you that the dogs are being coerced in any way whatsoever to do what they do, it's just in their blood.

    I took my DSLR with me, and it was fine. I kept it tucked inside my jacket when I wasn't using it. It did take some practice to get used to taking photos while on the move though, I don't really have any photos at all for the first day, although it was blowing a blizzard at the time so I had other things to worry about.

    Regarding accommodation, I don't know whether you'll be doing the same as us, but the first night was a mountain hut at Tarnasjön owned by the Swedish mountaineering club. It was great .. like an icebox when we arrived, but after all the stoves had been lit, it was toasty and warm. We even ended up opening a window in our dorm it was so hot. The second night was in a kind of guesthouse/hotel in Ammarnäs, a Sami village, which was nice too, and the last 2 nights were in a cabin at Overstjuktan owned by Kenneth himself on the shores of a frozen lake which was fantastic too. We had a rest day there as well, although personally I got a bit bored and would rather have been out on the sled to be honest. In Umnäs we stayed in a separate house to Kenneth and Catrine's place that was just next door.

    I've just uploaded my photos of the trip to http://pix.ie/aluns/album/454350 if you're interested in having a look.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 15,117 ✭✭✭✭MrJoeSoap




    Not my tour, but the one shortly after it. Really great video.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,464 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Wow, like you say, a fantastic video and a great advertisement for the Silent Way! It really captures the whole spirit of the trip, and most importantly what great characters the dogs are. Makes me want to go back and do it again ...

    In fact I spotted one of "my" dogs from my trip, Snö, a big creamy white dog with a pink nose ... a total softy but with the strength of an ox who was one of my "wheel dogs".


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,117 ✭✭✭✭MrJoeSoap


    Alun wrote: »
    Wow, like you say, a fantastic video and a great advertisement for the Silent Way! It really captures the whole spirit of the trip, and most importantly what great characters the dogs are. Makes me want to go back and do it again ...

    In fact I spotted one of "my" dogs from my trip, Snö, a big creamy white dog with a pink nose ... a total softy but with the strength of an ox who was one of my "wheel dogs".

    Ah man, Snö was my favourite dog. Wasn't on my team, but in the madness of the dog yard when all the other dogs were running around, Snö was sitting at the door of his kennel, observing it all. I used to sit next to him and have a little chat!


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,464 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    MrJoeSoap wrote: »
    Ah man, Snö was my favourite dog. Wasn't on my team, but in the madness of the dog yard when all the other dogs were running around, Snö was sitting at the door of his kennel, observing it all. I used to sit next to him and have a little chat!
    :) Yes, I remember that too, he'd just sit there calmly watching them all run around like crazy. When we got back to the yard at the end of the trip, he did just the same, went straight to the gate outside his kennel and just sat there, with a look of, "Well, are you going to let me in to my kennel or what?" You can spot him on that video briefly, doing the exact same thing.

    I got the impression he was an older dog, so was bit surprised to still see him working 5 years later.


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