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I thought I'd post up some of my first ever attempts. These were taken a few years ago now (09) with a monochrome Meade deep sky imager II through a 10" Newtonian on a CG5 mount. A setup that is much too unstable for long exposure work, but I hope to do some detailed lunar mosaics with the same setup in the near future.
IIRC, M42 and M13 were single exposure shots without any processing. M101 and M51 were small stacks (<20) of pretty short exposures (no more than 20s) with minimal (half-arsed) processing attempts. No calibration files (darks, flats, etc) were used. I think this is the correct chronological order.
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My 2nd go at M42 ! , im getting there!
... I think now the light pollution is my main problem left now .
40 30" second lights at ISO 400
D7000 500mm F4 .
Celestron CG-5 mount.
Stacked with DSS and clean up in CS6.
Thanks to others here that eventually helped me to get to this point with tips and things to get!
If anyone wants to have a go at re-editing my original , pm me , im sure my tweaking of random sliders could be done better ha 0 -
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Just wondering what white balance setting do other people use on their cameras? Was told to use tungsten but tends to give a horrible blue hue to the photo.
Go with daylight white balance and under RAW/Fits DPP settings in DSS, select the 'use camera white balance' option. If you are using one of the less expensive light pollution filters that have no balance correction, you may need to set a custom white balance in your camera.My main issues so far are polar alignment and light pollution (oh and ****ty weather).
How long are you able to push out your subs before you notice trailing? With a polar alignment routine you can expect no more than a minute or so. Drift aligning will give you much more precise alignment and can get you to 90 or 120s or so before periodic error starts to become a problem. Although you have a very nice mount and it may perform better than that with drift alignment. To get even longer you'd need one of the few guiding system options.PS. Anyone tell me why my pics don't open automatically when posted like one's above?
If you use an image hosting site such as Flickr or Pix.ie you can get links to your pics that you can copy and paste into your posts (it's under the 'Share' button in Flickr). In the photography forum, they use a dimension limit of 800 pixels on the longest edge - something we might want to use here too. Flickr, and im sure the other hosting sites also, will provide links for different sizes of you pic. 0 -
Fantastic result on a 500mm Lens Ian!
You would have to check if LP filter can be obtained for D7000 i guess, or a srew on for the Lens?
Cheers! ....
Theres a slot for a filter in at the front of the lens yes and i think we have a UV one in it atm , so i'll have a look about see what other types can be bought for it.0 -
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I've only been taking pics from my backyard at the moment so drift alignment is out for me because I don't really have a clear view East or West. I downloaded the latest firmware for the synscan control which has a new polar alignment option and this has improved my feeble attempts I was getting originally. Max time I am getting is 60s but more often its 30-50s, which I suppose is the best I can do anyway due to light pollution.
I definitely want to do autoguiding though, especially for dark sites, and have been reading up lots about it. Would you recommend a decent system thats not too expensive Tzetze? Any thoughts on stand alone systems such as this
/www.firstlightohttpptics.com/guide-cameras/skywatcher-synguider-autoguider.html or the following http://www.telescopehouse.com/acatalog/Orion_Magnificent_Mini_AutoGuider_Package.html? They seem simple enough and not too pricey, just wondering how well they actually work, can't seem to find too much about them. 0 -
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