Let the games commence

sogood

Swim platform repairs.....

sogood

So, given my window trim setback, as mentioned in a separate post, I will be working around that particular job, but more of that anon. In the meantime, while awaiting my next delivery of "oily parts" I turned my attention to the trailer. I won't be trailering the boat very much at all and when I do, it will only be over a short distance, maybe 5km.

Having said that, I was interested in reinstating the brakes on it. The trailer, like the boat, is American and so, the ball hitch is a slightly larger size than we use here in Europe. I got around this when I bought the boat, by swapping the ball on my tow bar with the "American" ball, given to me by the PO. The bolt fixings are standard, so it was just a case of undoing them and swapping the balls over. This allowed me to tow the trailer with no issues.

This was just a temporary fix as I needed the original ball fitted on my tow bar to tow my car trailer etc. So, I changed the hitch and fitted a spring loaded version, with a view to reinstating the brakes on the trailer. It's a four wheel trailer, with brakes on the front wheels.

With the spring loaded hitch, as per the original, when you brake and the car slows/stops, the trailer will want to continue forward, which pushes it against the hitch. Being spring loaded, the hitch will absorb this movement and push a rod backwards against the trailer. This rod operates a piston in the brake fluid reservoir, and so, operates the brakes, just like in your car. For reversing, a small locking tab is engaged on the hitch, to prevent the brakes from applying when you push backwards on the hitch, which would replicate the braking action.

I've included pics of how the original set up would have looked, along with my proposed set up. Importantly, I want to incorporate a hand brake of sorts into the set up, allowing the brakes on the trailer to be applied manually.

I figure that this would be a useful addition when launching. Having the ability to stop the trailer independently, without relying totally on the traction/weight/brakes of the launch vehicle. It would just need someone standing on the trailer to operate it. The trailer platform at the hitch is very stable with lots of room for this to work without any safety issues.

I might also look at a spring loaded mechanism, that would apply the brakes in the event that the trailer parted company with the towing vehicle. Another bit of head scratching to do on that one.

I'm pretty good to go, having removed the brake drums and cleaned and painted everything up. The brake cylinders on each side were in very good condition and look as though they were replaced in the not too distant past. Bearings and shafts were well greased and moving freely with no wear or rumble. I dismantled and cleaned the master cylinder, removing a lot of old crud, dried brake fluid and have it all freed up and operating freely, with no apparent leaks.

Putting it all back together may have to wait until Ophelia passes by. Here in Kerry we're bracing ourselves!

Very little left to do after that, apart from the window trim issue, but it's doable!

If the "storm season" permits, she may be getting wet before too long!!!

fergal.b

I bought a hitch from http://www.indespension.ie/#. for one of my trailers with a hand brake and a safety cable that also worked the brake if the trailer became unhitched. Mine is an A frame but I'm sure you could get one for yours.

sogood

Thanks for that. As I've already bought and fitted the hitch, which cost a few bob being quite heavy duty, I'll work with what I have. I only have to make up a bracket to mount the reservoir to the trailer, and incorporate the "handbrake" lever in between the hitch and the piston on the reservoir. It's pretty much how the original hitch operated and I may salvage some useable parts from it.

It's just a little side job and as I won't be trailering or launching too often, I don't need anything too high tech. Just something that works.

I have a similar hitch arrangement on a towing A frame, but the actual hitch, like the one shown in your picture is much lighter.

Thanks again.

sogood

Oily bits arrived yesterday and today, so now I have a new choke mechanism to fit and a dodgy oil pressure sender also. The sender is a simple unscrew and screw on the new one. Having said that, is anything ever that simple? And my replacement steering rack arrived today. Very happy with it. Very clean and functioning freely with no apparent leaks, so that's a simple replacement. And I have my old leaky one for spares! Thank you eBay!

The choke is a metal spring device, that mounts to the top of the block and expands from heat generated by the engine as it warms up. The expanding spring then pushes a rod to open the choke. Just one screw to mount it, but the original screw is very tight and a little bit inaccessible, so lots of WD40 being applied and I'll tackle these jobs whenever the weather clears up a bit.

My braking hitch arrangement is coming along, but waiting on better weather also before I can finish it off. In the meantime I altered the original mounting plate to suit my needs and have things bolted together, temporarily. I'm poking around to see what I have to make up the actual "handbrake" aspect, which will be pretty straightforward and uncomplicated. Keep it simple!!

The mounting plate has a slot in the top, which I hope to use to fit the handle for manual operation. It would be like a fork, with the handle showing on top, while two prongs would extend below, with a bend and sit against the piston plate on the reservoir. It will make more sense when it's done!

The next few days don't look too good on the weather front, so I might confine myself to the shed and concentrate on the "handbrake" mechanism.

sogood

Just a little update. In between storms and hurricanes and life in general,I got a bit more done. I was happy to see that the cover I made stayed put during all the high winds. It's only held on with snap fasteners, but I had added straps at intervals around the edges, to allow it to be tied down also. Belt and braces!

I hadn't gotten around to fitting the hardware to hook the line onto, but the fasteners did the job very well.

I got my new oil pressure sender on and now the oil pressure is as it should be, and sitting steady with no fluctuations. I also got my replacement steering actuator fitted and now my steering is leak free and much smoother, with no stiffness or shudder. Having a job getting the one fixing screw out of the old choke mechanism. Still soaking in WD40 and tried it after running the engine up to operating temperature, just to see if a little heat might have helped, given that it's mounted right on top of the engine. Still no joy. Not the end of the world as the old one is working, just a bit crusty. It's something I can do at my leisure.

I started work on my windows, repairing the seals on the front cabin windows. They had shrunk over time, leaving the mitred joints at the corners open somewhat. So, not wishing to spend the $453 plus shipping I was quoted fro replacements, out came the black sikaflex.

I injected it into the joints at the bottom corners of the windows and then pushed the joints together. I wanted the best repair to be at the bottom corners, where the water tends to lodge. I filled the gaps on the top joints which need a little more filling and finishing.

I also fitted the glass to the side upper deck window. It's bedded in, held in place with clamps and some pieces of trim that I had. I just need to devise an alternative to finish them off properly. It's an outdoors type of window, so doesn't have to be totally watertight. I think maybe a visit to my nearest PVC window manufacturer will be called for.

Also did a few minor odds and ends, screwing things down, dressing things off etc. Happy enough that I wasn't in the water, despite the harbour being very sheltered. On that subject, I wondered what the general consensus is regarding fixing to a mooring buoy. Some opinions suggest using two lines, with one being connected to each cleat at each side of the bow. I was going to tie off at the eye on the bow. This is the new, heavier one that I fitted, higher up than the existing trailer/winch eye, which is down nearer the waterline. The one I fitted is a proper stainless steel one with a metal plate reinforcing plate on the inside of the hull. Any thoughts welcome.

pedroeibar1

sogood wrote: »

windows............ I wondered what the general consensus is regarding fixing to a mooring buoy. Some opinions suggest using two lines, with one being connected to each cleat at each side of the bow. I was going to tie off at the eye on the bow. This is the new, heavier one that I fitted, higher up than the existing trailer/winch eye, which is down nearer the waterline. The one I fitted is a proper stainless steel one with a metal plate reinforcing plate on the inside of the hull. Any thoughts welcome.

I'm not a fan of using sealant type stuff on windows, it creates too much hassle in the future.
On the mooring question, I have a cleat centrally mounted on the foredeck, with a roller fairlead on the bow. I have a short-ish warp with an eye that I place on the cleat, then out through the fairlead, through the mooring and back, then tied-off on the cleat. That would work with your two cleats. If you use the new eye you fitted on the bow, how accessible is it? (Pedro, with visions of all sorts of stuff falling out of pockets while prostrate on foredeck and leaning over bow fidgeting with lines.)

sogood

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

I'm not a fan of using sealant type stuff on windows, it creates too much hassle in the future.
On the mooring question, I have a cleat centrally mounted on the foredeck, with a roller fairlead on the bow. I have a short-ish warp with an eye that I place on the cleat, then out through the fairlead, through the mooring and back, then tied-off on the cleat. That would work with your two cleats. If you use the new eye you fitted on the bow, how accessible is it? (Pedro, with visions of all sorts of stuff falling out of pockets while prostrate on foredeck and leaning over bow fidgeting with lines.)

Thanks for the response, although I don't know my warp from my fairlead, I'm getting there. I've included a picture of the set up on my foredeck/bow, which I think is similar to what you describe. I think I could easily sort out two mooring lines/pennants. These would be fixed individually to the buoy and would come up through either gunwale cleat and onto the cleat on the deck. I'd probably fit a small pick up buoy to them for easy retrieval/pick up.

Another picture shows my original bow eye along with the new one that I fitted higher up, which would be about 14"- 16" below the gunwale. It would be accessible for me, for the moment. So, I suppose I would have two options, but imagine that two lines would be preferable to one?

Thanks again for the input.

pedroeibar1

I'd use the cleat on the deck - I'll post a picture of what I mean later.

pedroeibar1

sogood wrote: »

.......... I think I could easily sort out two mooring lines/pennants. These would be fixed individually to the buoy and would come up through either gunwale cleat and onto the cleat on the deck. I'd probably fit a small pick up buoy to them for easy retrieval/pick up........

Yes to the small ‘pick-up’ buoy. No to the two lines.

It is best to use a single line with a loop on one end – when approaching the mooring drop the loop over the cleat, pick up the mooring eye and pass the line through it and then back to the cleat. Made fast in the usual ‘figure of eight’ fashion will prevent the loop from slipping off. A short length of bent wavin/hydrodare midways on the line will stay in position and prevent chaffing. Ensure that the line runs through the fairleads (the guides on the gun'l).Simple & effective.:)

sogood

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Yes to the small ‘pick-up’ buoy. No to the two lines.

It is best to use a single line with a loop on one end – when approaching the mooring drop the loop over the cleat, pick up the mooring eye and pass the line through it and then back to the cleat. Made fast in the usual ‘figure of eight’ fashion will prevent the loop from slipping off. A short length of bent wavin/hydrodare midways on the line will stay in position and prevent chaffing. Ensure that the line runs through the fairleads (the guides on the gun'l).Simple & effective.:)

Thanks for the input but can you explain why you would be against two lines? I thought a "belt and braces" approach would be no harm. I proposed using two lines, in much the same way as you suggested, with either line fixing to the mooring buoy and travelling up to the same cleat on deck, each passing via the gunwale cleats. As it's a swinging mooring I don't see this being a problem. Pardon my ignorance but am I missing something?

Thanks again.

sogood

So, apart from mooring conundrums, I'm still working through what I feel are the last of the jobs on the boat. Back in the distant past I bought a solar panel to help keep my cranking battery sufficiently charged. Yes, I know this is Ireland and I'm being very optimistic on the sunshine front, but I don't think it can do any harm.
Anyway, back during the refitting and wiring process, I ran in the various cables and connected up the charge regulator and it has all sat redundant until now. I recycled some aluminium angle that I had and made up a mounting bracket for the solar panel and fitted it up on deck, as much out of harms way as possible. It sits at an angle to help prevent dirt etc. from building up on it. I hooked everything up and when I put my voltmeter on the output from the panel, it showed almost 18 volts, and this was on a grey overcast day! I don't know if I should believe this or not!

Anyway, the regulator itself does just that, regulating the power to/at the battery and switches off the supply from the panel, to prevent the battery from being overcharged, without interfering with the charge being supplied from the alternator.

I also revisited my window trim issue and got it sorted, thanks to reverting to "Plan A" which was to look into the possibility of using UPVC window trim. I called in to Senator Windows in Killarney and explained what I was looking for and why. A very helpful gentleman named Aron took me out back to where they had a load of old windows, which were being scrapped and dumped. He pulled some slips from them and suggested I go home and try them out to see if they'd work.

So, armed with my samples I did a bit of modifying and fettling and I'm happy to say it worked out really well. The trim in question is white which I actually prefer as opposed to the original black, and has the advantage of having a small rubber sealing strip attached. I will be returning to Killarney to collect enough trim to refit both windows. And the big bonus is the cost. It's free!!!

So, a few pics to show what I'm talking about.

pedroeibar1

sogood wrote: »

Thanks for the input but can you explain why you would be against two lines? I thought a "belt and braces" approach would be no harm. I proposed using two lines, in much the same way as you suggested, with either line fixing to the mooring buoy and travelling up to the same cleat on deck, each passing via the gunwale cleats. As it's a swinging mooring I don't see this being a problem. Pardon my ignorance but am I missing something?

Thanks again.

Hi Sogood,
A few reasons.
The primary one is that my method arguably is easier and much faster to secure and to cast off.

I’m not convinced from the photo that you would have sufficient room on that cleat to properly secure two mooring lines, if each had an appropriate diameter.

Under the method you are considering, both lines would have to be exactly the same length for the boat to lie easily to the mooring. If they are not the same length the pressure will be placed on one line, the boat will lie at an angle until the next gust and it will yaw.

The method that allows you sleep at night is the best one.

sogood

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Hi Sogood,
A few reasons.
The primary one is that my method arguably is easier and much faster to secure and to cast off.

I’m not convinced from the photo that you would have sufficient room on that cleat to properly secure two mooring lines, if each had an appropriate diameter.

Under the method you are considering, both lines would have to be exactly the same length for the boat to lie easily to the mooring. If they are not the same length the pressure will be placed on one line, the boat will lie at an angle until the next gust and it will yaw.

The method that allows you sleep at night is the best one.

Many thanks for that. Much clearer now. ðŸ‘

sogood

Not a lot to report except that I fitted my boathooks and fire extinguishers. I also made up and fitted covers for the rear seat backrests, which were waterlogged when with the PO. The covers button down to stop them blowing up and they disappear down into the access hatch when not in use. They're held in place at the top edges inside the access hatches and should offer some protection. The seat bases themselves simply lift out for storage when not in use.

I also fitted some snap catches to hold the tie down line for the cover I made. This had been held down using button/pop fasteners, which held firm through Ophelia, but the harbour is more exposed than my yard, so, belt and braces rule. The snap catches open, unlike loops/eyes, so you can undo the tie down line without having to remove it totally. Likewise when fitting it.

I've started making up the handle for the manual handbrake mechanism on the trailer and it's shaping up well. The fill and bleed the brakes (when I get the bleed nipples undone!!) and she's almost ready for the big splash. Finishing off the bimini top and retrimming the windows remain to be done, but I'm still waiting on a call from my friend at Senator windows to collect the trim slips. I can't remove them myself due to health and safety/insurance issues.

But we're almost there, really, honestly!!!!

sogood

So, got my handbrake mechanism made up and have it up and running. Just have to adjust the brake pads, but all is good. Not a lot left to do. Waiting on the window trims to finish that off and my bimini top has to be finished too. I can do that now that I have the snap fasteners that I needed.

The hull is "original" and seems to have never been antifouled. I'm thinking of getting a season out of it and then antifoul it at the end of next Summer when I'm sure it will need to be pulled out for maintenance, tweaking etc. Thoughts? While she's in the water I want to do some work on the trailer.

I also want to hook up my VHF to my chartplotter. And after that I cant think of too much that needs to be done.

Getting close to the big splash, which is a bit daunting. The Microplus was a little runabout by comparison, but slow and sure. Anyway, that's for another post.

sogood

So, in between distractions, inclement weather and the fact that I'm not under any great pressure, I am still pottering along. Some tidying up as I go, fitting little extras, like some more rod holders and studying youtube videos on how to splice ropes, which I've mastered. So now I can make up my mooring pennants.

I got my "Bimini" top finished off and after I sort out the fixings for the frame, it will pull any little sags or looseness out. At the moment, I'm using some bungee cords to do the job!

I want to make up a sort of waterproof sleeve to wrap it up in, when it's folded down. I set it up from the fully folded down position to fully up and clipped/locked in place and it takes less than three minutes. I wouldn't show it off in Florida, but it will serve it's purpose for me. A quick and simple solution to our ever changing weather which should keep the worst of the showers off.

I collected the window trim from my man at Senator windows, but unfortunately, it was a different type to the original sample that he gave me. I could see this when I collected it, but took it anyway, to save it from the dump and with a view to seeing if it might be made to work, but it's a no-go. So, I will spread my search further afield. And that will be the last serious job to do...........

In the meantime, some pictures of my "Bimini" top.

sogood

Long time no post, but I keep surprising myself with all the little fiddly jobs I'm doing on the boat. I had a few things in mind that could easily have been done when she was actually in the water, but as the winter dragged on and on, I just kept pottering.

I finally got some old PVC window trim to dress off my windows and for the most part, it worked, but not well enough. Thanks to the fact that the internal "locking" part of the trims had to be modified to suit the profile of my window frames and the fact that the frame sections have different internal shapes/profiles, it was hard to get the same type of trim to work properly on all three sides. this meant mixing the type of trim, which messed with the angles and joints in the corners. Some parts of the trim were under constant strain and tended to pop out with vibrations from the engine .

So...........I decided this just wasn't good enough. A different approach was needed and I came up with the notion of using aluminium strips, bent at a 45 degree angle and pop riveted to the flat outside edge of the frame. I just needed something to dress off the window and to help keep the glass in situ, although it's bedded in using sikaflex.

I got the strips cut and bent at 1 and 3/4" wide, bent along the length with a 1" flat and a 3/4 angle. Measuring and cutting took a bit of fiddling, but I'm very happy with the look and functionality. I also got a piece of aluminium plate to help strengthen the swim platform at the boarding ladder. even under my scrawny frame, there was too much flexing of the platform every time I hauled myself up onto the ladder. Now it's as solid as a rock. And another little metal fabrication job was to make up a new cover for the flame arrestor. The original was scruffy and somewhat mis-shapen, so I made up a new one. I may see about removing the graphics from the original or get new ones made up. The jury's out on that.

I fitted the little cabinet on the fuse board in the head and also got my table fitted in place and is removable in seconds.

I also did some improvements to my little punt, which is ready to go back into the water.

There are lots of other tiny bits and bobs being marked off the to do list and I'm basically just waiting for the weather to settle a bit with an eye on the big splash. I have my helpers lined up and my biggest issue is to be free when the tide suits, as I'm away a fair bit during the summer with work. I can't launch here in Kenmare as the slip is inaccessible for the size of the boat, so I will be putting her in the water a little further down the Beara peninsula at Star Marine, where the slip and surrounding area is enormous. I want to get it into the water about 2-3 hours before high tide, which will give me plenty of water as well as plenty of time to do my "sea trials" before heading back up the bay to Kenmare and onto my mooring, where I'll need to have enough water, as the harbour drains almost totally at low tide.

It won't be very long now and hopefully there won't be any big surprises when she finally gets wet! Watch this space.

sogood

Forgot the obligatory pics!!

sogood

So, I'm still killing time, pottering about with the boat prior to the big splash. That won't happen for at least a fortnight as work will take me away from home for that long, but hey ho. Still ticking off those little jobs that seem to keep coming out of nowhere and giving myself extra work to do while I'm at it.

My latest "experiment" is what I think is properly called an "anchor pulpit". I didn't like the idea of having the anchor banging about up on the prow, apart from being a trip hazard. The prow is a big area, ideal for fishing from, away from the usual madness on deck, so the anchor had to be sorted. So I got myself a piece of scaffolding board, about 1 1/2" thick and cut it to shape, with a slot for the anchor to pass through. Then a few layers of chopped mat and today I started filling and rubbing on one side. I don't have to be too fussy around the slot, as I'll be dressing that off with aluminium, to protect it against the chain etc. I may mount a small roller on it too. I'd like to fit a small rub rail around the outside edge, still working on that. It's often a problem when you only want a very small amount of anything.........

I intend to hang the front of the anchor from the front of the pulpit, where it's out of the way and doesn't swing about. After all the filling and rubbing is done, the plan is to paint it with 2 pack.

Looks a bit like summer is finally on its way, woo hoo........................

sogood

Got a little bit more done, in between mad work load. Anyway, tidied up the filling and rubbing and blew a light coat of primer over it, ready for final rub down before paint goes on. I also put some concealed channels into it, to take the power supply from the bow, so I can relocate the old Nav light onto the front of the pulpit. I have new port and stb nav lights fitted, but thought it would be nice to keep the old one as a bit of adornment as much as anything.

I also cut and dry fitted the aluminium angle insert and it just needs a tiny bit of finishing. I cut the insert to follow the line of the shape of the actual pulpit. I think it works. It will be another week before I get back to it, so patience are a virtue.......

fergal.b

It's about time you got out on the water now you have earned a little break




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sogood

fergal.b wrote: »

It's about time you got out on the water now you have earned a little break

I wish!
I have to have all my ducks lined up, as in: Friends available, including the tow to the slip and launch. Tide at the right time so that I have enough incoming water to launch, with enough time to sea trial before getting back up to the harbour where my mooring is, still dependant on enough water to moor.

The harbour drains at low tide and I'd never get onto my mooring. Then there's the weather, which hasn't been very kind as of late. And finally, there's work. I drive tour coaches and things have kicked off in earnest, which keeps me away from home for up to two weeks at a time, with short periods in between. But, having said that, there may be a window of opportunity on the week starting 21st. We shall see. Fear not, there will be plenty of photographic evidence and a full write up when it finally happens. Unless I sink, in which case it will be a short and sweet mention.










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fergal.b

sogood wrote: »

..

Thats one of the reasons I moved inland you get much more use out of a boat no tides and weather not a problem on the inner lakes I used to hate the worry and the checking of my mooring whenever the weather was bad.




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pedroeibar1

sogood wrote: »

..............
I also cut and dry fitted the aluminium angle insert and it just needs a tiny bit of finishing....

If those screws are stainless, I'd first use an acrylic sealer in the holes and then screw them in - that would minimise the risk of electrolysis between the two metals. The weather locally has been awful, I have not even considered antifouling, cheered by the fact that it was F4-6 from Thursday - Sunday with a full gale on Thursday night!:mad:

sogood

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

If those screws are stainless, I'd first use an acrylic sealer in the holes and then screw them in - that would minimise the risk of electrolysis between the two metals. The weather locally has been awful, I have not even considered antifouling, cheered by the fact that it was F4-6 from Thursday - Sunday with a full gale on Thursday night!:mad:

Yes, I intend to do so. The pic is just a dry fit and it will be painted etc. before the trim is fitted. And yes, the weather hasn't been too kind, but it just meant that I got more finishing done than was intended! I'm looking at possibly launching around the 24th/ 25th but work may yet decide otherwise! Thanks for the input.

sogood

So, if the planets align as I hope they do, the big splash should happen sometime after this day week. When I say planets, I mean time free from work, availability of friends/helpers, tide time etc. I've already moved the boat around so that it will be reversed out of the garden.
Due to the shape of things, layout, narrow two lane road and general lack of space, it's the best way to go. Driving coaches for a living helps when it comes to working out the best way to approach such things.

In the little pockets of time available just now, I'm cleaning, tidying, removing any bits of left over junk and replacing it all with just "boat bits". I've spliced ropes onto my fenders and stored them on board, along with a nifty collapsible trolley that I got in Lidl a year ago. This is with a view to transporting 25L fuel cans!!

I got my anchor pulpit painted in 2 pack and fitted it, although I've added a third fixing bolt since the pics were taken. Happy that I could re-instate the original bow nav light. All the wiring is concealed inside the pulpit.

I have to attach a bow eye or similar to hook the anchor onto, so it can hang, and also a clip/strap at the rear, back end of the anchor to hold it down in place. I'm thinking about a roller of sorts to help prevent the line from chafing.

Too much good weather passing by with the boat sitting on the hard, but it will be worth the wait.

sogood

I gave up on posting estimated splash dates, as everything, as in life, work, tide times etc.kept conspiring against me. Last Sunday was perfect, I was finished work on Saturday, tide was perfect, friends/helpers were available, sea was calm and weather was warm. I was almost tempted to post my launch plans, but something said "no". My instincts must be getting sharper, because the weekend went totally pear shaped. Long story...……..


But this weekend it finally happened!! Not without some teething problems once out on the water, but nothing insurmountable. The important thing is, she's on her mooring in Kenmare!! Happy days. Some tweaking and I'm good to go.


A little pic to show her in her new home, and my good woman appreciates being able to see the front garden again.

fergal.b

Well done, plenty of good days ahead to enjoy her and get some payback.



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FanadMan

She looks happy to be back in her natural habitat Happy waters and well done on all the work.