MR2 - what to look for

I've decided to take the plunge and buy an old MR2 (MKII), it's the car I've wanted since I was a young teenager and have decided I need to have one before I get too old to look alright in it

So lads and lassies, what I really just want to know is, is there anything major I should be looking for? I'll be getting a mechanic to look at whatever car I'm looking to buy - but before I get to that stage, anything I need to know?

NIMAN

Good luck with your purchase.

I can't offer you any great machanical advice, but just want to say that I bought one in 98 as it was a dream of mine to own one too.

They are fantastic cars, and there are plenty out there to pick from. I owned the Jap import G-Ltd, and it was completely reliable for me. I would have loved the Turbo, which is apparently scarily fast. The insurance would have been scary too, and the G-Ltd was fast enough for me.

Unfortunately the arrival of children put it out to pasture, and it is really missed. Was a joy to drive. Still couldn't part with it though and sadly it is now sitting wasting away.

You won't regret it. Just watch that RWD on wet or slippy corners!

Viper_JB

Deleted User wrote: »

I've decided to take the plunge and buy an old MR2 (MKII), it's the car I've wanted since I was a young teenager and have decided I need to have one before I get too old to look alright in it

So lads and lassies, what I really just want to know is, is there anything major I should be looking for? I'll be getting a mechanic to look at whatever car I'm looking to buy - but before I get to that stage, anything I need to know?

Great choice, I had a MR2 Turbo up untill reciently I loved it but there are definitly a few things to watch out for, if you're looking at a T-Bar roof, drive it through a car wash on the test drive and watch the top of the windows for leaks, leaks very common with nearly all the T-Bars and have the potential to ruin the interior.

Give the brakes a good check, there seems to be a number of issues with the calipers, I had to have both front ones replaced on mine, they're cheap and you get money back when you send back the old one, but definitly something to look at, mainly just make sure the cylinder is retracting as expected and check the see that the brake fliud is relatively fresh.

Outside of that the engines are really solid in my experience, just make sure the usial work has been done and that it's not due a timing belt or water pump change, it's a big job, requires dropping the engine out - costs me about 700euro when I had it done and make sure there's good tyres on the car as it has no mechanical aids to keep you on the road and if the tail steps out it can be very tricky to get it under control again.

There's a forum in the DIY section where one of the guys has done a lot of work on a MKII mr2, some great info and pics, I can't find it just now but I'm sure someone will post up a link .

Outside of that though they're really rewarding cars to drive, very fun (espically the turbo one), and very pretty cars (when they're not modified). Best of luck finding a good one and post us up a picture when you get one .

Some good info here too http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=78571835 eringobragh has another thread with all the work he's done on that car since he's bought it, looks like new now, still can't find it thoguh >.<.

NIMAN

NIMAN wrote: »

I would have loved the Turbo, which is apparently scarily fast.

Viper_JB wrote: »

if you're looking at a T-Bar roof, .

Yeh the one I had on my pencil case in 2nd year was a GT T-Bar so that's the one I've always had in my head. In red.

Great info lads, thanks, I've only *just* started looking so it might be a while before I find the right one and get it on the road.

I'll definitely have a look at importing it too.

Viper_JB

Deleted User wrote: »

Yeh the one I had on my pencil case in 2nd year was a GT T-Bar so that's the one I've always had in my head. In red.

Great info lads, thanks, I've only *just* started looking so it might be a while before I find the right one and get it on the road.

I'll definitely have a look at importing it too.

Ya mine was the red T-Bar turbo, the roof is a nightmare when it leaks, but I gotta say for those very few opportunities I got to use it, in my eyes it was worth it - such a great feeling with the wind in your hair on a beautiful day behind the wheel, definitly some of the most memorable drives I've had have been in the MR2. I think most of the Turbo ones you'll find around will have already been imported I don't think they were released in Europe but I'm open to correction on that, worth a look around, though I think the VRT maybe a bit step on it.

repsol

Deleted User wrote: »

I've decided to take the plunge and buy an old MR2 (MKII), it's the car I've wanted since I was a young teenager and have decided I need to have one before I get too old to look alright in it

So lads and lassies, what I really just want to know is, is there anything major I should be looking for? I'll be getting a mechanic to look at whatever car I'm looking to buy - but before I get to that stage, anything I need to know?

Check the upholstery as it may be stained with shampoos and hairspray from the previous hairdresser owner:D

repsol

repsol wrote: »

Check the upholstery as it may be stained with shampoos and hairspray from the previous hairdresser owner:D

Whatever about the newer ones, the MKII is defo not a hairdresser car.

endacl

whoopsadaisydoodles wrote: »

Whatever about the newer ones, the MKII is defo not a hairdresser car.

Yep. It's a stylist's car if anything.

endacl

endacl wrote: »

Yep. It's a stylist's car if anything.

That actually made you sound all the way.....

:pac:

endacl

whoopsadaisydoodles wrote: »

That actually made you sound all the way.....

:pac:

Hey, I'm comfortable with myself!

:-)

Chriscl1

Hey doodles where are you based? I've one here if ya want take a look at one and have a drive of it??

repsol

Deleted User wrote: »

Whatever about the newer ones, the MKII is defo not a hairdresser car.

Whatever you say Toni, sorry I mean Guy!::p

tuborg_man

There very sensitive to tyre's. The lack of weight at the front means they don't react well to ditchfinders. The engine compartment can be tight, especially the timing belt as was mentioned before, check the coolant aswell, The car needs a lot of it and can become neglected,
Look for rust in the usual spots,
I loved mine, was one of the first mk2's around, was a 1989 rev 1 turbo,
Great fun.
Go to mr2.ie and there's a big detailed write up and buyers guide and sign up to the site. very helpful and friendly guy's that know there 2's

eringobragh

Viper_JB wrote: »

Some good info here too http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=78571835 eringobragh has another thread with all the work he's done on that car since he's bought it, looks like new now, still can't find it thoguh >.<.

Here it is ...http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056601197 ...to be updated in the spring :P

Dont be put off by dull paint toyota paint of that era was great although red can be high maintenance but looks fantastic...bit of work and it'll be like new


Brakes...sticky calipers are a common occurence

Tbar leaks...don't worry too much about them between eccentric rod guides, silicone and clingfim fix, and coaxial cable fix...it stands me €30 so far and no issues in the last 6 months or so

As mentioned above good tyres are essential especially on these icey mornings, I've had here kick out once or twice (for fun :P) good 225s on the rear should keep you out of trouble :pac:

Engine: the 3SGEs are solid...timing belt is a big job but doesn't require the engine out. the engine itself is non-interference but don't leave it to chance.
check for regular oil changes

Rust: generally there should be little or none, however the UK cars especially in the rear sills have rotted...this is due to the foam sounddeadening in the cavity, it absorbs water and you know the rest :pac: other then that the roof around seals and sunroofs is where you'll find more of it

Spec: depending on where it came from but you get them fully loaded AC, electric folding mirrors, leatherseats, heated mirrors, LSD.

Personally I prefer the Rev3 onwards due to the rear facelift.

Other then that you get serious fun for the buck..the mid engine setup is a first for me but I love it...18months later and keeping!


Below is a comphensive list compiled by members spanky and slipsliderg from mr2.ie..

Credit: http://mr2.ie/mr2-forum/28-how-twos/10234-how-twos-buy-a-sw20-3s-ge-a-3s-gte

mr2.ie wrote:

The following is a guide I gave one of the lads and I have decided it may be two valuable to get lost on the forum.

So I am posting it here for future reference, This is a guide to buying A SW20 N/A, it is in no way a replacement for bringing a mechanic with you, in fact it may help a mechanic look at specific areas to give you a better report on a cars condition.

I have built up this knowledge in my head from years of surfing countless MR2 web-sites and seeing related problems on my car and others.

This list is not exhaustive and I welcome all comments additions etc. I have taken info from the other members as well, you know who you all are

To brief you all, the starting comments are related to an English import.
As the clocks are MPH I would think it’s a English import, therefore prone to rust problems, check:

Condition of drop links, the link bar between the ARB and the suspension strut, any knocking noises etc,
Leaking exhaust.
Rust on the underside of the doors.
Rust on the sills.
Rust on the jacking seam.
Bubbling on the paint work along the bottom of the car.

A lot of rust remarks I know but, I just don't like the idea of cars run for a long time in England. The SW20 is not prone to rust but the English ones I have seen are riddled with it.

Check for knocking on the suspension strut top mounts.

Check inside oil filler cap for any emulsion.

Check all fluid levels and quality. Coolant, oil, g/box oil, brake fluid, washer bottle.

Check Aerial operation.

Check to see the fog lights working, you have to take out the whole fog light to change a bulb but the original screws that toyota used seize and they can often have to be drilled out so if they arnt working make sur ethe dealer changes the bulbs for you,

If your getting a T-Bar ask if theres any leaks, or sit in the car and ask them to hose it down, no kidding, just do it.

Check for wear on the brake discs, i.e. if there is an excessive lip on the outside diameter of the disc. Get the garage to replace them.

Start the car from completely cold and listen for any knocking sounds in the engine, Also be on the listen for this when taking off at junctions at slow speed; high engine load moments. If the engine is warmed up when you get there, that is normally alarm bells time.

It is not unusual to get a tapping/ticking type noise from the cams/shims when the car is cold, this should go once the oil get up to temperature.

Check exhaust, no blue smoke or black/brown smoke on start up or when revving or driving.

Take the car for a spin, watch the temp needle, once up to operating temperature turn on the heat full blast, if the gauge drops rapidly almost to the bottom then the heater core was probably not vented correctly. This could be due to frontal damage or a previously blown engine. The SW20 is very hard to bleed air out of when the radiator has been replaced or coolant removed for any reason (head gasket etc), some people give up to the cars detriment.

Drive the car for a couple of miles then get out and with the back of your hand check the temperature of the rims in the centre, MR2's are fond of seizing brake callipers when they haven’t been used all the time. If any of the rims are hotter than other it will probably be this issue. Easy fix for the garage as well.

During the test drive, get the car above 4500 rpm and try gear changes 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd, 3rd to fourth, fourth to third. As some gearbox oils can cause issues with the synchro's on Toyota g/boxes and people don't know about it when they change the oil.

When test driving the car and it is at proper temperature and it is safe to do so, drive the engine to the red line you should notice the following if you are watching for them.

At 4500 ACIS comes on, basically a shorter inlet tract to the inlet valve and thus upping the engine output.
At 5500 you may notice another increase up to the rev limit, of circa 7200rpm. These tests are purely to make sure the induction and fuelling are working ok. Be wary doing these tests as the car will be above the speed limit quicker than you think.

As a norm if I was purchasing from garage, I would ask them to do the following work as part of the purchase.
Full service using Toyota parts.
New brake pads.
New brake fluid flushed thru the system.
Change the timing belt or open the cover to allow a mechanic you know to check the condition of the belt, should be change around 70k miles. Ask for the original one back and the receipt for the new one, as evidence it was done, it is not an easy job to do.
Change the gearbox oil.
Current NCT certificate.

Now the most important note, I excluded one item on purpose & this is it, are you listening.
Tires, get good tires, don’t let the garage buy, them get them yourself, go with respected brand names such as.
Toyo proxies
Goodyear Eagles
Bridgestones
Falkens 452’s (don’t get 512’s)
Seriously don’t mess about with the tires and always keep the rears wider than the fronts. Ask here, ask any where MR2 related, unless you want to pay in body parts (both types) make sure your tires are a good brand and suitable for MR2’s (this board and other boards will advise you).

Now that I have scared you out of buying a MR2, and yet you still going ahead to purchase one, welcome to the rewarding world of cheap mid engine driving and welcome to the club.

If you are going to look at one tell us about it and you will have volunteers to come look with you, or let you take a spin in a good one so you know how they should feel on the road.

Long may she wear, keep her between the ditches, with the shiny side up.
May the road rise to greet you, and may the wind be at your back.

And some more info from Spanky & Olly on the MR2OC

Spanky wrote:
Olly from mr2oc also produced a checklist to be used when looking at a car. I thought I may as well add to this post so that potential buyers in Ireland can get all required info from one thread


Bodywork:
• Check all panel gaps.
• Stand at front and back corners and scan down each side of the car – especially ¼ panels.
• Check panels for evidence of respray and different colours underneath.
• Check under car for signs of crash damage.
• Check radiator at front for signs of leakage and damage.
• Check wheel arch lining is present and secure.
• Check lining under car is present and secure.
• Check condition of discs.
• Check frunk for lining, tool kit, spare wheel.
• Check rust on underside of the doors and wheel arch lips.
• Check for rust/bubbling around t-bar area when panels are off (look under the rubber seals).
• Check t-bar roof – condition of rubber seals. Tight fitting windows and t-bars?
• Check tyres for even wear on each tyre and across all four tyres.
• Check VIN plate in frunk. Should start with SW20 for a turbo and JT163SW20 for an n/a.

Interior:
• Check every switch (does ariel work?)
• Air con engages and is cold?
• Heaters hot?
• Relevant warning lights all light up with ingition on?
• Fog lights work (and steer)?
• Fog lights on dash come on?
• Folding mirrors both fold and adjust?
• All dash illuminating lights work?
• Hand brake holds?
• Check seats adjust including all lumbar levers.
• Check cable releases for frunk, bonnet, boot and fuel cap.
• Check date label is on seatbelts and also check the date.
• Any evidence of damp carpets in cabin and in boot.

Engine bay:
• Check radiator cap. Should be able to see coolant. Any oil visible?
• Check for ECU error codes.
• Start engine – do all dash lights go out except handbrake?
• Temp should reach ½ way.
• Fans should come on. When they do, check radiator for leaks.
• Check halfway underneath the car for any leaks when engine is on.
• Smooth idle below 1000rpm when warm?
• Signs of leaks around engine bay or underneath?
• Check oil level and condition.
• Check under oil cap for mayo.
• Is downpipe cracked or blowing?
• Condition of air filter.

When driving:
• Any rattles or knocking at idle?
• Clonks over bumps from suspension or other source?
• Bearings grind while turning?
• LSD grinding while turning?
• Brake hard – check ABS works.
• Brakes squeal?
• Check brakes don’t vibrate when applied lightly.
• Full boost to the redline?
• Check boost in all gears including 4th from 20-70mph+.
• Temp stays at ½ way even after full accleration?
• Steering wheel wobble?
• After driving, check discs. Is one hotter than the rest?

Other areas:
• Check service history.
• Does the history relate to the current engine?
• Any written proof of mileage to the car i.e. certificate / check MOTs?
• Proof of clutch change.
• Proof of cambelt change.
• Proof of when brakes were changed.
• If a turbo, what boost is the car running at. If over 1.0bar (15psi), do the mods support it?
• Evidence of regular servicing – check dates.
• Any names or addresses so you can phone previous owners?

............Best of luck with the find:cool:

Fuh Q

Excellent choice of car you wont be disappointed.
My advice is to go for the full spec Turbo TBar. No point in buying a car that will just do, the T Bar roof is lovely on a nice day and the 2.0 straight engine is nice to drive but the Turbo is much more fun.
Buying tips - Brake calipers can get a bit sticky, check for sign of previous damage/repairs to body and underneath, they like to go off road sometimes.
Timing belt - its a big job and skipped by a lot of owners, if there is no history of belt change get it done as soon as you buy it. Keep an eye on engine oil especially with Turbo models.

Apart from that , take your time getting use to it even if you have driven RWD before.

Good luck and dont forget the photos.

mloc123

Owned a turbo about 6 years ago now. Mk2 rev2, the insurance back then was surprisingly cheap.

My only advice, never crash it. The NCAP ratings poor... I think the later revisions were slightly better (they included side collision bars).

NIMAN

I got the timing belt changed on mine and a very reputable mechanic in the North that I used did it for me for £120. A bargain, as others had not even quoted me, I think they couldn't be bothered as they knew it might be a tough enough job.

eringobragh

NIMAN wrote: »

I got the timing belt changed on mine and a very reputable mechanic in the North that I used did it for me for £120. A bargain, as others had not even quoted me, I think they couldn't be bothered as they knew it might be a tough enough job.

Yep x 2 mine did my belt, tensioners, coolant, thermostat and alternator belt for €200 labour

NIMAN

Just wanted to point out that its not the major major job that some say it is, and that you could get it done for not much more than a standard family car.

Senna

I would choose a Beams MR2 over a turbo, smoother power delivery, 200bhp, only NA that came with a LSD as standard, cheaper insurance and 35mpg all day long (never got much more than 28mpg in an NA). Plus its just the 3sge engine so never a problem with reliability.

I'm not a fan of the t-bar, they just give more problems and how often will you get to use it. They're becoming more of an enthusiasts car, so try and find one that's been well looked after and a folder full of receipts would be nice. If timing belt has been done, make sure the water pump was done too.

Great choice in car, I miss mine.

Chriscl1

Lads thanks so much for all the info, that's brilliant.

I saw the exact one I wanted today. Was gonna politely ask the driver to get out of my car!

Chriscl1 wrote: »

Hey doodles where are you based? I've one here if ya want take a look at one and have a drive of it??

Hey Chris, you selling? I'm in Dublin, the posh side.

Ardennes1944

Linky?

Oh it wasn't for sale! It drove past me!

Chriscl1

Deleted User wrote: »

Hey Chris, you selling? I'm in Dublin, the posh side.

Yeah, mine is up on adverts. I'd love to be able to drive her as a main car as she is better on juice than my Zafira but it's just too small

Chriscl1

Chriscl1 wrote: »

Yeah, mine is up on adverts. I'd love to be able to drive her as a main car as she is better on juice than my Zafira but it's just too small

Thanks Chris, I would only go for black or red I think, sorry dude

I'll be keeping my main car, nice sensible diesel that it is, this car is for fun/ticking off my bucket list etc.

It looks like unless I import, I'm very likely to have to revise my wishlist.

So T-Bar, or Turbo? I'll probably bloody well kill myself with the turbo.

This looks like a pretty nice car, been on there a while though.

http://www.carzone.ie/search/Toyota/MR2/G-Limite/201238210109398/advert?channel=CARS

Mar4ix

one another turbo mr2 .. not cheap though

Mar4ix

Mar4ix wrote: »

one another turbo mr2 .. not cheap though

I don't think the alloys will go with my fluffy pink dice :P

The one I linked to above is sold already.

They've blocked donedeal in work

Viper_JB

Deleted User wrote: »

I don't think the alloys will go with my fluffy pink dice :P

The one I linked to above is sold already.

They've blocked donedeal in work

It is a bit....chavtastic...

Chris_Heilong

They want €5000:eek::eek::eek::eek:
looks like a candidate for dreamer of the year right there. They would be lucky to get 2k for it.

Chris_Heilong

Chris_Heilong wrote: »

They want €5000:eek::eek::eek::eek:
looks like a candidate for dreamer of the year right there. They would be lucky to get 2k for it.

But it has buffalo leather seats. BUFFALO.

Mar4ix

well, you may consider get one from Japan .. linky

Haha - 3 years later and I've FINALLY done it :pac:

Collecting on Monday. So very in love. Will post pics \o/

davycc

Deleted User wrote: »

Haha - 3 years later and I've FINALLY done it :pac:

Collecting on Monday. So very in love. Will post pics \o/

congrats we need more info! took your time making your mind up:D

where where you when i was selling my purple beaut a few months back;)
http://www.adverts.ie/car/toyota/mr2/1998-revision-5-purple-mr2/7469720

fabolous cars im a huge fan:

davycc

davycc wrote: »

congrats we need more info! took your time making your mind up:D

where where you when i was selling my purple beaut a few months back;)
http://www.adverts.ie/car/toyota/mr2/1998-revision-5-purple-mr2/7469720

fabolous cars im a huge fan:

I tend to procrastinate at times :P

Pros:

G Limited with T Bar.
It's a 94 - which means I can get it insured as a classic. Ideal.
Shiny red - well kept.

Cons:

Obviously a non turbo.
Lambo doors. Don't like but not a big deal.
Non leather interior which might be something I look at changing.
The outside has been kept better than the interior but they're minor little aesthetics that I can sort.

It also has a a mental stereo system inside from the owner before the current one. I've little interest in that! I'd look cute blaring a bit of Gloria Estefan going down the M50!.

Collecting this evening, poxy rain ruining my T Bar experience.

TherapyBoy

Deleted User wrote: »

Collecting this evening, poxy rain ruining my T Bar experience.

If you drive fast enough the rain won't get you. It's totally science!

davycc

if you are on facbooks i reccomend https://www.facebook.com/groups/134759126546985/?fref=ts and
http://mr2.ie/
and a website and group which proved an invaluable soure of advise, cheap parts and some epic project threads and friendly meets

as for the rain all mrs tbars leak dues to a design flaw in the seals:o

so you will get rain on your legs/

i took off the tbars and cleaned the rubber under them wd40 dryed it then whacked a pile of vaseline into the seals before putting the tbar back on as a tempoary fix as i got mine in the winter and it was leaking like a seive:pac:

i was going to order this brilliant sillicone spray for it but sold the car so i didnt bother:rolleyes:

anyways good luck with it and if i can help just ask:)

The leak is minimal, and only on the passenger side, so not too bad really. I'm probably going to get it detailed. It was definitely loved on the outside, but less on the inside! Also need a new handbrake ASAP because it looks like this at the moment.



Few bits to tidy here and there like I said earlier. Also will be looking for leather seats a little bit later on.

My god she's fun to drive

Toyotafanboi

do keep us posted

eringobragh

multiple fixes for the tbar seals

got some seal renewer on mickgarage don't use vaseline

then theres the silicone trick

http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-base.html?kbartid=207

theres also eccentric rod guides that make a tighter seal by offsetting the bar:

http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-base/mr2-mk2.html?kbartid=281

I got them from Toyota for around €20 if I recall correctly

You can also use a bit of black coax to push the seals out

Best of luck with it and always be prepared for the unexpected! :pac:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6nG_VQcXto

PM me if you've any questions as I've mine over 4 years

eringobragh

Also worth looking at the rustpoofing sills as soon as you can can be a major killer especially the ones that hailed from the UK

See my thread here: http://www.mr2.ie/mr2-forum/8-performance-and-repairs/44265-sos-save-our-sills/

Was reading about a major cause of rust in MR2s...if water gets into the sponge (for sound deadening AFAIK) it causes moisture and serious rust..I've pulled the sponges out for good.

I'm trying to avoid THIS (not mine) and replace the sills:



Read this thread http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forums/41/148602.html and pulled the car apart :P

Whats the verdict on the below....what should I treat it with?

Cheers.



Tbar leak here (Passenger side) - so expected some surface rust here.



Took foam out passenger side:

Uh-oh



Checked - not too bad seems surface mainly...a bit up the side where you cant see in the photo





Drivers side clean! Could get a proper look or photo but looked OK.

Power Steering is gone!

eringobragh

Deleted User wrote: »

Power Steering is gone!

It's not!

Turn your ignition off and on (without turning the engine over) about 20 times very fast....... the heat re-engergises the coil in the relay essentially unsticking it

happens about once a year in mine

eringobragh

eringobragh wrote: »

It's not!

Turn your ignition off and on (without turning the engine over) about 20 times very fast the heat re-engergises the coil in the relay essentially unsticking it

happens about once a year in mine

:pac: Was just reading that in some of the MR2 forums. Phew. Will try it soon. Might get fired if I go out to that car again today

eringobragh

eringobragh wrote: »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6nG_VQcXto

This happened yesterday. I laughed as I remembered your advice

Notch000

Deleted User wrote: »

This happened yesterday. I laughed as I remembered your advice

they just resurfaced that stretch of road recently, the 'off' from the roundabout was like a wash board before and would unseat anythng