Balance system

Big Nelly · 05-12-2012 10:13pm #1

Hey Guys

Any idea's, I know what I have to do, just don't know how to do it.

Have heating going and wasnt really heating the house and just checked water and it was roasting, so I changed the valve up stairs in hot press to stop the water heating as much. For some reason it was full open.

So I closed it off just to check if this would increase the heat in the rads. Worked great but the one rad in kitchen now had little or no heat in it.

Have bled all the rads and they are all fine. Turned off all the rads but it and still the same. Put them all on full and still not the same.

I know there is some way to balance the system to get it working? how do you do this? not in mood to pay 100 quid for a 5 min job!!!! thanks

jjf1974 · 05-12-2012 10:25pm

The radiator might be full of dirt turn of both valves take of the rad and run wter through it using a hose, this worked for me as rad was full of black gunk. To balance the rads turn down the valves on the hottest rads, turn the drop shield valves with a pliers,these are the valves that can not be turned by hand.

Big Nelly · 05-12-2012 10:51pm

jjf1974 wrote: »

The radiator might be full of dirt turn of both valves take of the rad and run wter through it using a hose, this worked for me as rad was full of black gunk. To balance the rads turn down the valves on the hottest rads, turn the drop shield valves with a pliers,these are the valves that can not be turned by hand.

I wouldnt think full of dirth, new rads in 2 years ago and only put in new gas system last year to replace old oil system.

Do you mean turn down or off? all other rads are very hot!

Also is the drop shield valve on opposite side of rad to Thermostatic valve?

jjf1974 · 05-12-2012 11:01pm

Big Nelly wrote: »

I wouldnt think full of dirth, new rads in 2 years ago and only put in new gas system last year to replace old oil system.

Do you mean turn down or off? all other rads are very hot!
QUOTE]

Turn them down,but if you turned them all of and it still didnt heat you must have have some kind of blockage coming to that rad.

dodzy · 07-12-2012 9:28am

jjf1974 wrote: »

The radiator might be full of dirt turn of both valves take of the rad and run wter through it using a hose, this worked for me as rad was full of black gunk. To balance the rads turn down the valves on the hottest rads, turn the drop shield valves with a pliers,these are the valves that can not be turned by hand.

For balancing, you need to establish the heat sequence of the rads. From cold, fire up the heating. Move around the house quickly and record te sequence which the rads heat up. You will then have a list with first ( nearest boiler ) to last (furthest from boiler). Next is lock shield valve adjustment ( the valve with the dud knob ). Remove this to expose the valve. Basic rule is nearest rad to boiler will have a minimum opening on the LSV. As you move through the system, you will open these valves a little more until you reach the last rad in the system, where the valve will be more open than the others.

The function of this is to restrict the flow to the rads close to the boiler, and increase flow of hot water to the further rads. A clip on temp gauge for temp measurement is handy. The flow and return pipes should show a drop of about 10dec C ( as the water will cool on its path through the rad )

Best of luck.

johnwest288 · 07-12-2012 9:48am

Should One get a TOTAL rad System bleed every 3 or 4 years? I mean TOTAL empty of the system total wash out? Also is it the same water that constantly circulates in your system or does it come from the immersion tank. I also heard there is an additive when you do a total system drain you should add to the water?

jjf1974 · 07-12-2012 6:39pm

johnwest288 wrote: »

Should One get a TOTAL rad System bleed every 3 or 4 years? I mean TOTAL empty of the system total wash out? Also is it the same water that constantly circulates in your system or does it come from the immersion tank. I also heard there is an additive when you do a total system drain you should add to the water?

When you flush it out you can add a chemical called fernox, this prevents corrosion of rads etc. it also helps prevent air pockets in the system.I think a 5 litre container does most systems, if you look it up online you will get more info. as its a few years sence i done my system.

Billy Bunting · 07-12-2012 6:49pm

Big Nelly wrote: »

Turned off all the rads but it and still the same.

It is more likely the TRV on the kitchen Radiator thats sticking in the closed position, try removing the head of the thermostat completely and pushing the pin up and down.

08-12-2012 2:56am

johnwest288 wrote: »

Should One get a TOTAL rad System bleed every 3 or 4 years? I mean TOTAL empty of the system total wash out? Also is it the same water that constantly circulates in your system or does it come from the immersion tank. I also heard there is an additive when you do a total system drain you should add to the water?

No, I flush is required only in response to a dirty system, if a system is clean at the start of its life and the concentration of inhibitor is maintained over the years then you will have the same clean water as you started with after 30 years, it's only when systems aren't looked after or if they leak that problems arise.

If your lucky and have no leaks you will have the same water in your rads that you start with, heating systems do lose a small amount of water over the year but this is dealt with by topping up your inhibitor every few years.

As posted if you google fernox or sentinel you will find more info from the chemical manufactures.

Lex Luthor · 08-12-2012 3:22pm

dodzy wrote: »

For balancing, you need to establish the heat sequence of the rads. From cold, fire up the heating. Move around the house quickly and record te sequence which the rads heat up. You will then have a list with first ( nearest boiler ) to last (furthest from boiler). Next is lock shield valve adjustment ( the valve with the dud knob ). Remove this to expose the valve. Basic rule is nearest rad to boiler will have a minimum opening on the LSV. As you move through the system, you will open these valves a little more until you reach the last rad in the system, where the valve will be more open than the others.

The function of this is to restrict the flow to the rads close to the boiler, and increase flow of hot water to the further rads. A clip on temp gauge for temp measurement is handy. The flow and return pipes should show a drop of about 10dec C ( as the water will cool on its path through the rad )

Best of luck.

excellent write up

I set mine up yrs ago and they have been touched them since or needed to

Big Nelly · 08-12-2012 3:29pm

Hey guys thaks for all the replies, ended up I fixed it but not 100% sure how:D

In terms of flushing the system, I do it myself every year. Just dont like crap water running around it and find I get better heat. Did get some advantage of been a young fellow and working on sites so have a bit of know how!

Doesnt help me sell servers to pay the bills now thou!

whizbang · 09-12-2012 10:25pm

In terms of flushing the system, I do it myself every year.

No, I flush is required only in response to a dirty system, if a system is clean at the start of its life and the concentration of inhibitor is maintained over the years then you will have the same clean water as you started with after 30 years, it's only when systems aren't looked after or if they leak that problems arise.

If your lucky and have no leaks you will have the same water in your rads that you start with, heating systems do lose a small amount of water over the year but this is dealt with by topping up your inhibitor every few years.

You are adding fresh oxygen every year. Iron + Oxygen = Iron Oxide. = Rust. Your system is probably rotten by now.

Balance system

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