Improving Factory CZ 452

Cavan duck buster

Just weighed in my CZ. Just under 8.5 pounds my a hair or two. I was thinking of getting the muzzle re crowned and bedding the stock. My worries are would bedding the stock are how much weigh would it add??? And cost including the re crowning. The re crowing shouldn't affect the weight and the trigger kit should be the same.
Would Fergal White be my man to go ta to getting this done???

I just cant weight to get into competitions

clivej

Cavan duck buster wrote: »

Just weighed in my CZ. Just under 8.5 pounds my a hair or two. I was thinking of getting the muzzle re crowned and bedding the stock. My worries are would bedding the stock are how much weigh would it add??? And cost including the re crowning. The re crowing shouldn't affect the weight and the trigger kit should be the same.
Would Fergal White be my man to go ta to getting this done???

I just cant weight to get into competitions

Nice stock CDB where did you get it or who make it??

Action Bedding = Fell the fear (and do it anyway)

Easy BUT you really need to think it through firstI did my first bedding job on my 308 Sako 75. Just take your time.

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=66882815&postcount=62




And the CZ style/varmint stock








And the Timney Trigger

Cavan duck buster

thanks, i got the stock from boyds gun stocks in america in forest camo. i love the pattern.
what dose bedding actually do to help the rifle preform???

O and i was talking to fergal a few hours ago and sayed that he can put new barrels into it if i deeply wanted but he said if your gun is shooting well don't bother, he is a sound lad when i was talking to him about the crown, he sayed to bring it down some day to see if it needs to be re crowned and also he sayed later in the year that he will e doing more projects for .22 benchrest

dev110

How much have you shot the rifle?
Have you tested different ammo through it?
What are the groups like?

I have put a good few rounds down range over the last few weeks and after yesterday I put in a 236 out of 250. All I have done with the rifle is sand out the barrel channel, fit a Yo Dave trigger kit and play with the torque settings.

My rifle would be a prime candidate for a bedding job as the different torques on the action screws changed the groups. Will I get it done in the future? I doubt it. With the way it is shooting already why pay out that kind of money on a sporter rifle. If it was a LV or HV I would get it done as soon as I could.

Before you go getting a new barrel and bedding it shoot groups with it first and try a few of the things mentioned in this thread.

Cavan duck buster

dev110 wrote: »

How much have you shot the rifle?
Have you tested different ammo through it?
What are the groups like?

I have put a good few rounds down range over the last few weeks and after yesterday I put in a 236 out of 250. All I have done with the rifle is sand out the barrel channel, fit a Yo Dave trigger kit and play with the torque settings.

My rifle would be a prime candidate for a bedding job as the different torques on the action screws changed the groups. Will I get it done in the future? I doubt it. With the way it is shooting already why pay out that kind of money on a sporter rifle. If it was a LV or HV I would get it done as soon as I could.

Before you go getting a new barrel and bedding it shoot groups with it first and try a few of the things mentioned in this thread.

Thanks dev
I say i have fried about 700-900 rounds through it.
I have tested a good number of rounds through it. I tested a lot of normal rounds that you will find on the shelf. I still yet to rest the good match grade ammo ie. eley ect. The best groups i got so far is with sk pistol match.

I have yet to also play with the torque settings.
I do not plan on changing the barrel, Fergal just pointed out that he can if i wish.

dev110

Are you a member of the Midlands?

I went up today to try out some Eley match. I'll get pics up to show of much difference there is in different rounds and how important it is to match the torque settings to the ammo.

Cavan duck buster

dev110 wrote: »

Are you a member of the Midlands?

I went up today to try out some Eley match. I'll get pics up to show of much difference there is in different rounds and how important it is to match the torque settings to the ammo.

No i'm a member of lough bo, their nerist to me.
I need to know a good shop that stocks all these good brands of ammo to widen my search for the best round. Any word on the trigger kits yet?

dev110

After shooting two cards and getting 227 & 220 I wasn't convinced with the way the Eley Match was shooting.
I had the action screws still set at 15 in-lbs which the SK shot best at.

I did the torque setting test again and found out why I was getting more verticals than usual.

Wind was strong and changeable but I'm only worrying about the vertical spread.



After the test 20 in-lbs was the best result so set them to that and messed around on the next 5 targets.

I turned the scope back down to 6.5X and shot at the last 15 targets to see if there was a difference.

Results speak for themselves



I shot a 137 out of 150 and the last four targets will be posted in the target section as I have a few questions about them.

Any ammo you use that might not shoot well in your rifle might just need a tweaking

clivej

You could try putting in a pillar. That will stop a lot of the difference between torque setting requirements.

Did you try removing the front entruchion completely to fully free float the barrel????

OR see if the front entruchion screw is pulling down the barrel when you tighten it up. Fix is to put a washer under the entruchion to fill the gap.

I never gave any thought to torque settings and you have a plastic stock so there will be little need IMO.

Also you need to stop shooting BF targets as it not proving anything for you.
You need to shoot groups to see if the torque setting is making any difference in group size. It's the consistence small groups that are what you are after.

It's the group size that sorts the sporter rifles from the expensive LV and HV rifle.

Looking at your BR targets some of your groups look to be 20mm maybe a little more. You must get these down to 12mm or better ALL the time. Use the scope at max power to lessen error on POA while shooting groups. Then your scores will go up.

JUST the way I see it nout more, nout less.

dev110

clivej wrote: »

You could try putting in a pillar. That will stop a lot of the difference between torque setting requirements.

Did you try removing the front entruchion completely to fully free float the barrel????

OR see if the front entruchion screw is pulling down the barrel when you tighten it up. Fix is to put a washer under the entruchion to fill the gap.

I never gave any thought to torque settings and you have a plastic stock so there will be little need IMO.

Also you need to stop shooting BF targets as it not proving anything for you.
You need to shoot groups to see if the torque setting is making any difference in group size. It's the consistence small groups that are what you are after.

It's the group size that sorts the sporter rifles from the expensive LV and HV rifle.

Looking at your BR targets some of your groups look to be 20mm maybe a little more. You must get these down to 12mm or better ALL the time. Use the scope at max power to lessen error on POA while shooting groups. Then your scores will go up.

JUST the way I see it nout more, nout less.

Nope I left in the entruchion in.

I'm happy with the way its shooting the way it is. I am finished tweaking things now.

I'm only concerned about what the vertical spread is with the ammo. Its the same thing we do when loading for 1000 yards.

First test at 20 in-lbs resulted in a 14 mm vertical with a crapy first shot. That was shot at 18x.

Next was shot at 6.5X. It is a 4 shot group and the 5th shot was with 2 clicks added. That 4 shot group had a vertical just under 9 mm.

Any windage will be for me to adjust for.

tomcat220t

Hi Dev ,nice groups .Chronograph and plot a 20 shot group on a calm day(without any adjustment to your poa) and it will tell you more ,imo.
Regards ,Tomcat .

dev110

I'll try sort that out. It be an interesting test.

tomcat220t

dev110 wrote: »

I'll try sort that out. It be an interesting test.

Hi Dev, thats some grouping for a 500 euro ish .22lr rifle .CZ .22lr give some bang for their buck :cool::cool:.
Best of luck and keep the photos coming .
Regards,Tomcat.

Cavan duck buster

Found this just now, it relay helps what to do for accursey.

http://ukbr22couk.ipage.com/CZ452VarmintCustomisation.pdf

Cavan duck buster

Just fitted the trigger kit. I put the lightest spring in and left the tubes alone.
Then i fitted the gun back into the stock and put in a spent casing in. Fired it and noticed that the trigger stays in place and dose not move back forward angle, also as i re cycled the bolt the it fired on closing the bold.
Is this normal or did i do something wrong???

tomcat220t

Cavan duck buster wrote: »

Just fitted the trigger kit. I put the lightest spring in and left the tubes alone.
Then i fitted the gun back into the stock and put in a spent casing in. Fired it and noticed that the trigger stays in place and dose not move back forward angle, also as i re cycled the bolt the it fired on closing the bold.
Is this normal or did i do something wrong???

Hi Cavan ,its slam firing .
Put a heavier spring in to be safe .
Regards ,Tomcat.

Cavan duck buster

Thanks, just went out the back to teat how safe it is, when the pin is released by accident it dose not fire (thank god) but the way it is safety is a major thing now so i'l probably put the second lightest spring in to hopefully take away that factor.

Cavan duck buster

Cavan duck buster wrote: »

Thanks, just went out the back to teat how safe it is, when the pin is released by accident it dose not fire (thank god) but the way it is safety is a major thing now so i'l probably put the second lightest spring in to hopefully take away that factor.

I fixed my problem, the spring wasn't fitted in probably, so it working fine again the way i want (and safe) but as i have NO idea how the tubes work as there is a bit of slack until the break.

dev110

What you can do with the tubes is work from the biggest to the smallest. I have the biggest in and can still feel a little creep, although this is probably due to using a light trigger for the past year with FTR.

The spring shouldn't have caused the rifle to slam fire but now that you have that sorted you need to be more careful with the shims as this will adjust where the sear engages.

Make sure you give a thorough testing by bump testing. I had the scope off so gave mine a real tester and then gave it to my dad who doesn't shoot to test it and he tested it harder than I did and it passed with flying colours.

If you think your on the brink where it will slam fire move to the next smallest shim. It's better to take the extra few minutes changing/testing to make sure than out in the field and an accident occurs.

Cavan duck buster

dev110 wrote: »

What you can do with the tubes is work from the biggest to the smallest. I have the biggest in and can still feel a little creep, although this is probably due to using a light trigger for the past year with FTR.

The spring shouldn't have caused the rifle to slam fire but now that you have that sorted you need to be more careful with the shims as this will adjust where the sear engages.

Make sure you give a thorough testing by bump testing. I had the scope off so gave mine a real tester and then gave it to my dad who doesn't shoot to test it and he tested it harder than I did and it passed with flying colours.

If you think your on the brink where it will slam fire move to the next smallest shim. It's better to take the extra few minutes changing/testing to make sure than out in the field and an accident occurs.

Thanks dev, i know how the tubes work but installing them(should have point that first) i find a problem

Oh and also i did test the rifle, i loaded a fired casing and got a dropped it onto the ground( about 2-3 inches while having my hand around the barrel to catch it if it went sideways) nothing happened so i'm in business now once i get a good stock of ammo in.

jackdarabbit

After installing my yo Dave trigger kit on my cz 452. The trigger is now lovely and light however there is a small bit of creep (2-3mm). Is this an expected amount of creep or can it be improved by playing around with shim tubes, I have already installed the blue shim tube. Any advice would be great

dev110

The blue shim is the smallest shim. Try the second biggest, the black one and see what its like. If there is still some creep try the biggest one (red).

Cavan duck buster

Well dev how are ya getting on with your cz this weather

dev110

Cavan duck buster wrote: »

Well dev how are ya getting on with your cz this weather

I'm getting on very well with it.
I've entered two International Sporter comps and won both. I'm also knocking rabbits every week from 20 to 100 yards so I can't fault it.
You can't beat a CZ with ~€20 worth of mods :cool:

How you getting on?

Cavan duck buster

dev110 wrote: »

I'm getting on very well with it.
I've entered two International Sporter comps and won both. I'm also knocking rabbits every week from 20 to 100 yards so I can't fault it.
You can't beat a CZ with ~€20 worth of mods :cool:

How you getting on?

I'm getting on ok but i found out that when i fit a mod it trows the bullet about 10 feet low so it needs to be re crowned to fix that problem.
I am also wondering if i can remove the metal that the rear sigh fitted into as i have to use high mounts and when i want to dil in for long shots (cans, targets) i can only dil up to 165 yards so would like it gone so i can fit low mounts ya the best i got so far was 205 4X so I'm still on the look out for good quality ammo as i can't find anything good at all around me, all hv or just normal subtonics so trying ta get the good match stuff also still hopping to get it bedded but i still straying on the idea of getting a match barrel fitted but still think i shouldn't bother but that all means getting funds

dev110

Cavan duck buster wrote: »

I'm getting on ok but i found out that when i fit a mod it trows the bullet about 10 feet low so it needs to be re crowned to fix that problem.
I am also wondering if i can remove the metal that the rear sigh fitted into as i have to use high mounts and when i want to dil in for long shots (cans, targets) i can only dil up to 165 yards so would like it gone so i can fit low mounts ya the best i got so far was 205 4X so I'm still on the look out for good quality ammo as i can't find anything good at all around me, all hv or just normal subtonics so trying ta get the good match stuff also still hopping to get it bedded but i still straying on the idea of getting a match barrel fitted but still think i shouldn't bother but that all means getting funds

You could look at getting a 10 or 20moa rail for it? It would be easier than having to get the rear sight turned down.

I've won the comps using SK Standard Plus so there is no need to get the real expensive stuff either. Although it might be more consistent.
The bedding and match barrel will be a personal choice but personally I wouldn't be bothered.

Cavan duck buster

dev110 wrote: »

You could look at getting a 10 or 20moa rail for it? It would be easier than having to get the rear sight turned down.

I've won the comps using SK Standard Plus so there is no need to get the real expensive stuff either. Although it might be more consistent.
The bedding and match barrel will be a personal choice but personally I wouldn't be bothered.

Ya was looking at them moa railes but still wonder if the rear sight metal can be removed?

dev110

Do you still have the actual sight on it? The piece that you slide up and down to increase and decrease the range?

If so they apparently just pop out

http://www.shooting.com.au/forum/index.php?/topic/1817-anyone-removed-the-rear-site-on-a-cz-452/

Cavan duck buster

dev110 wrote: »

Do you still have the actual sight on it? The piece that you slide up and down to increase and decrease the range?

If so they apparently just pop out

http://www.shooting.com.au/forum/index.php?/topic/1817-anyone-removed-the-rear-site-on-a-cz-452/

Ya i removed the adjustable sight but i still have to use high mounts as my scope is a little over size for a 4-12x40. I was thinking of getting the metal fream romoved as i can then get lower mounts and be able to dile in for longer shots
The pic shows what i want gone if it can be done

dev110

To get that piece removed you would need to bring the rifle to a gunsmith and have him turn it down in a lathe.
I think someone had it done on here before but can't remember who.