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Projects: Heap to respectable

  • 27-12-2012 12:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭


    O.K having bought the banger a month ago and having to get tooled up to start work on the bike here goes.

    Man Day 1.

    Carb clean and de-greese around the block.


    << BIG PICS - https://picasaweb.google.com/104253486455883489397/CarbClean# -->

    14472_463142940387602_1644906897_n.jpg


    Filthy dusty and neglected.....


    15554_463143470387549_1165388705_n.jpg

    Don't panic fairings need a respray. That-ll happen soon.


    3816_463143300387566_484732993_n%2520%25281%2529.jpg

    Not too bad but could be better

    6099_463143190387577_1316940920_n.jpg


    531883_463143067054256_1574386139_n.jpg


    Whiskey. :D


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 412 ✭✭Fr Dougal


    Nice one, best of luck with the project. Keep the pics coming.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    Bike back together and it runs allot better.

    Needs to have carbs dynamically balanced to get everything back
    where it should be.

    Someone had previously set the throttle stop higher rather than clean the carbs so that's now fixed.

    Next chain sprocket and back Tyre.
    Por-15 to tidy frame stand and pegs as I live close to the sea...


    Can anyone confirm if VHT paint is ok on an exhaust??


  • Registered Users Posts: 364 ✭✭bitburger


    its fine yeah, its abit crap though, rusts again in about 3 months if left outside


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    • New Chain and Sprocket ordered.
    • Chain tools
    • Feeler gauges
    • Torque Wrench
    • Vernier Dial gauge

    Wide-band O2 on its way from home. Knew I should have brought it with me.
    Coolant system flushed and new coolant added.


    Carbs need a balance as they are now out quite a bit since the clean.

    If im going to re-shim the head I may as-well re-jet it at the start of FEB and balance it then. Until then ill just run a + 500RPM idle.


    Ogh and The Bible

    51VliC9O4yL._SL500_.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,401 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Used to own one of those.

    You'll have to clean that yellow stuff off the number plate :pac:

    Scrap the cap!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    ninja900 wrote: »
    Used to own one of those.

    You'll have to clean that yellow stuff off the number plate :pac:

    I assume you mean its scary. I still haven't revved it out all the way until i get new tires and chain on it but its no slouch.


    Spray painted the backbox and made a mess of it. Did not properly adhere.

    Rang a powder coat which is what i should have done in the first place......


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,401 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    No I meant VRT it (assuming it's a UK import and you're in Ireland)
    Is your location real or wishful thinking? :)

    Balancing the carbs on the CBR is dead easy if you have vacuum gauges and only takes a few mins once the tank etc. is off. Rigging up a funnel or some other temporary fuel source takes longer... Makes a big difference to how well the bike runs.

    What year is it? I had a '98 (last of the steel framed F3's). Ran well enough at lower revs but only really started to wake up at 6k, noticeable step in the power at 8k, and at 10k it came alive...

    Scrap the cap!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    ninja900 wrote: »
    No I meant VRT it (assuming it's a UK import and you're in Ireland)
    Is your location real or wishful thinking? :)

    Balancing the carbs on the CBR is dead easy if you have vacuum gauges and only takes a few mins once the tank etc. is off. Rigging up a funnel or some other temporary fuel source takes longer... Makes a big difference to how well the bike runs.

    What year is it? I had a '98 (last of the steel framed F3's). Ran well enough at lower revs but only really started to wake up at 6k, noticeable step in the power at 8k, and at 10k it came alive...

    Location is real, its a New South Wales Plate.

    I moved down here about a year ago and took up a new job 3 months ago which turned into a 1:45 commute each way.

    Bike was no brainier as i'm now in sub 30min each way.


    Its a steel framed F3 and I currently don't have a Vacuum gauge but on my list. I need to do a leak down test also to decide on if i keep the current engine or build a second one. I suspect it may have some blow by.


    It really does start to move at 8k but again until I'm happy mechanically with everything ill be keeping it well under 8k.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50


    ninja900 wrote: »
    Rigging up a funnel or some other temporary fuel source takes longer...

    If you've nothing better an overflow bottle is nearly there

    Flush it out and store it safely when your finished though - too easy forget about it when you're welding something later on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    Ok order a Manometer to balance carbs not here yet.

    New Chinese Mirrors arrived with fake carbon effect

    Chain and sprocket still not here, really want to get that sorted asap.....


    Thinking of replacing Farings with a set of Chinese Smoking Joe set as the current set are in need of allot of work..


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  • Registered Users Posts: 364 ✭✭bitburger


    where did you source the manometer? i was just rereading the thread and thought i should suggest one to you lol, easy to home make one apparently


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,401 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    I got one of these http://www.carbtune.co.uk/ which worked well.

    Scrap the cap!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    ninja900 wrote: »
    I got one of these http://www.carbtune.co.uk/ which worked well.

    Yep that's the one I went with.
    Cheaper than the MotionPro one and looked nicer.....

    Site is awful though......

    I didn't build one as I know id manage to suck all the fluid into the bike and hydrolock the bike.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    Got man flu yesterday.

    -DID chain and sprocket arrived
    -Mirrors fitted
    -Manometer shipped eta 10 days...


    Now i need to learn how to rivet a chain with the riveting tool.....


    Will get it sorted friday evening....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 989 ✭✭✭rat_race


    Now i need to learn how to rivet a chain with the riveting tool.....

    It's pretty easy...I did it during the summer there. Youtube is your friend!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    Balanced the carbs.

    I fitted new bungs on the vacuum ports. Replaced all missing bolts screws in the Airbox.
    Replaced fuel hose as it looked a little worse for wear.

    Bike is now a different bike. Idles much stronger (and at a lower rpm). Less vibration. Snappy throttle response with no bogging when going full throttle in a high gear.

    Also seems to start better from cold but ill see tomorrow morning.

    Carbtune Pro is a good piece of kit also.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    Finally fitted new DID heavy duty chain and sprocket. Bike much more predictable and I can give it beans now.

    Took me two hours to do it as iv never done it before and took my time at it.
    Went on a long shakedown so I don't want to end up on the back of a recovery truck again.:o

    Next over-hall the coolant system and the steering head bearings. Parts ordered should be here for next week.


    Allot of work but at least im getting through it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 450 ✭✭Zebbedee




    Can anyone confirm if VHT paint is ok on an exhaust??

    It will burn away rapidly near the headers.
    It should be OK the further you get away from the exhaust outlet.
    No paint I have ever tried in that area has managed to last more than a few`days.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    Zebbedee wrote: »
    It will burn away rapidly near the headers.
    It should be OK the further you get away from the exhaust outlet.
    No paint I have ever tried in that area has managed to last more than a few`days.


    VHT paint flaked off and exhaust now looks rustier and worse. Got a quote to get back-box powder coated and manifold ceramic coated.

    Not sure I can take the bike off the road for a week to get it done soon though..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,026 ✭✭✭Wossack


    vht should be good for 3-6 months I would have thought.. didnt go too heavy with it? may need a vht primer too


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭amacca


    VHT paint flaked off and exhaust now looks rustier and worse. Got a quote to get back-box powder coated and manifold ceramic coated.

    Not sure I can take the bike off the road for a week to get it done soon though..

    out of interest who/what company is doing the ceramic coating? (if you dont want to say, thats o.k.)

    I wanted to get this done about a year ago and no one was doing it so i just went for metal polishing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    amacca wrote: »
    out of interest who/what company is doing the ceramic coating? (if you dont want to say, thats o.k.)

    I wanted to get this done about a year ago and no one was doing it so i just went for metal polishing

    I good a very good quote off Action Malek in Sydney, it may be a bit far from you. Really nice guy said I could drop it off Friday morning and he would do his best to get it back to me asap.

    The VHT paint problems, I tried was more than likely me not knowing what I was doing. But if you don't try you don't learn.


    I still have fairings with cracks and chips I need to sort also. So no shortage of work left to do and im in no real hurry once the mechanical bits are safe.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭amacca


    I good a very good quote off Action Malek in Sydney, it may be a bit far from you.

    I still have fairings with cracks and chips I need to sort also. So no shortage of work left to do and im in no real hurry once the mechanical bits are safe.

    ah.....so bondi beach is not an aspirational location


    i was about to add that I couldn't find company in Ireland that would do it and wasn't sure about posting abroad/to UK

    Well not strictly true, I found a company that does it but for larger scale stuff/larger commercial orders than a set of headers and downpipes....and a powder coating place that said they were "looking into it" :D

    ceramic (in black) looks to me like a cracking job when its done and supposedly has the potential to absorb some heat from exhaust gases and give an ever so tiny hp boost (so tiny its probably undetectable) - great if you're sick of polishing pipes only for them to tarnish a couple of weeks later and worse a couple of months later


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    Exhaust in getting coated. Back on the bus + train + train + train. 1 hour 45 min commute. Exhaust better be worth it.

    In the meantime I changed the Thermostat and fan switch. Fan switch was gone but thermostat got replaced anyway.

    Still have steering head bearings to get done before i move on to cosmetics.

    Will get photos up soon.


    After all this the bike better keep going for a year or two :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 599 ✭✭✭ambasite


    nice job, she will look well outside the Tea Gardens!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    OK update time.

    Need to sort out photos but last month or so both personally/work/motoring has been fecked.



    1. Got the exhaust back after going down to the powder coaters and telling him I was taking it today none or not.

    Had to get it powder coated instead of ceramic as ceramic takes 5 days to dry and i was about to have a psychotic break from the commuting and long hours at work.

    Looks ok but will inevitably start flaking off at the manifold close to the head where temrature is too high. But al least the back-box doesn't look like it was driven into the sea.

    2.
    Full service and new thermostat as the bike was taking a while to get going in the morning. Re-synced the carbs. Lubed my chain. New oil......


    3.
    Went of a test ride and had the bike stop up when pulling off from the traffic lights. Felt like it went lean and lost power.

    Fitted new Battery all was well.

    4.
    All was not well. Bought a multimeter. 12.6v at idle dropping when under load.
    Rectifier is fecked. Broke down a mile from the house.

    Bike does not make 13v until 2k Rpm. If the fan comes on below that RPM the rectifiers temperature shoots up and the bike decides your pushing it.

    Ordered a mosfet tested and branded rectifier and will retrofit that. A replacement rectifier from Honda is 280$+ AUD. The unit with all the bits needed to fit it came in at 177$ AUD and should make all famous cbr electrical issues go away.

    I also cleaned up the spade connectors which were hot and had burned to the stator. By binning them and soldering instead. Checked all the earths. Cleaned the battery terminals so they had a good connection.

    It looked like a bodge fest on fixing electrics last time someone was in there. Tidied it all up.

    In the meantime I disconnected the fan, raised the RPM to 2k idle and will limp it in and out to work for the week.


    There goes my new fairings this month :(



    Ogh and I don't drink in the Tea Gardens or Bondi Junction :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    OK update time.



    4.
    All was not well. Bought a multimeter. 12.6v at idle dropping when under load.
    Rectifier is fecked. Broke down a mile from the house.

    Bike does not make 13v until 2k Rpm. If the fan comes on below that RPM the rectifiers temperature shoots up and the bike decides your pushing it.

    Ordered a mosfet tested and branded rectifier and will retrofit that. A replacement rectifier from Honda is 280$+ AUD. The unit with all the bits needed to fit it came in at 177$ AUD and should make all famous cbr electrical issues go away.

    I also cleaned up the spade connectors which were hot and had burned to the stator. By binning them and soldering instead. Checked all the earths. Cleaned the battery terminals so they had a good connection.

    It looked like a bodge fest on fixing electrics last time someone was in there. Tidied it all up.

    In the meantime I disconnected the fan, raised the RPM to 2k idle and will limp it in and out to work for the week.
    The old shunt type reg/recs are crap. Mosfets are much better.
    Pretty much most modern bikes 06-on will have a Mosfet reg, easily identifiable by the FH on Shindengen units FH08-010-012 etc
    These will run a lot cooler than the SH units.


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