whitethorn hedge

fiestaman

Can i plant the above hedge now?

Oldtree

yes, very good time to do so as its not too wet and the ground isnt frozen.

km79

Another quick one on this. Is it a quicker job to plant these than laurel ? I'm trying to plan my time for next month or so. Am planning on planting 100 white thorn /black thorn.
My previous bare root experience is of laurel . Are the roots of the white thorn a lot narrower than the laurel and therefore the holes required also narrower ?

The Gardener

Whitethorn has a smaller less fibrous root system than Laurel, but more care should be taken not to break the roots. Having said that, Whitethorn can be planted using the back of the spade but whenever I've planted them, usually in a hedge, I've dug the area first, removing large stones, perennial weed roots, etc. and added a decent handful of bonemeal to each 1 metre stretch ( twice the amount if planting a double row). Once planted, prune back by about 50% to encourage lower shoots ( if being planted as a hedge) and if your budget allows, cover the area around the plants with a decent layer (about 9cm) of bark mulch which should save time weeding and watering for the early life of the plants.

fiestaman

The Gardener wrote: »

Whitethorn has a smaller less fibrous root system than Laurel, but more care should be taken not to break the roots. Having said that, Whitethorn can be planted using the back of the spade but whenever I've planted them, usually in a hedge, I've dug the area first, removing large stones, perennial weed roots, etc. and added a decent handful of bonemeal to each 1 metre stretch ( twice the amount if planting a double row). Once planted, prune back by about 50% to encourage lower shoots ( if being planted as a hedge) and if your budget allows, cover the area around the plants with a decent layer (about 9cm) of bark mulch which should save time weeding and watering for the early life of the plants.

Do you need to put plastic down aswell as mulch or will mulch on its own be ok?

km79

The Gardener wrote: »

Whitethorn has a smaller less fibrous root system than Laurel, but more care should be taken not to break the roots. Having said that, Whitethorn can be planted using the back of the spade but whenever I've planted them, usually in a hedge, I've dug the area first, removing large stones, perennial weed roots, etc. and added a decent handful of bonemeal to each 1 metre stretch ( twice the amount if planting a double row). Once planted, prune back by about 50% to encourage lower shoots ( if being planted as a hedge) and if your budget allows, cover the area around the plants with a decent layer (about 9cm) of bark mulch which should save time weeding and watering for the early life of the plants.

Ill be planting over 150 and will have to do it very quickly during any dry spell during remainder of bare root season so time will be tight. When you say using the back of a spade what does that mean exactly ?

The Gardener

km79 wrote: »

Ill be planting over 150 and will have to do it very quickly during any dry spell during remainder of bare root season so time will be tight. When you say using the back of a spade what does that mean exactly ?

It's a term we use, basically you push the spade in its full depth, push the spade forward which pushes the soil forward leaving a cavity at the back of the spade, you then plant the bare root seedling in this cavity making sure not to plant deeper than the nursery mark (the mark above the roots that was at soil level in the nursery). Finish off by firming the soil in around the plant with your boots, firm but gentle, no need to dance around the plant. One important point, don't let the roots dry out at any stage between getting the plants and planting them.

The Gardener

fiestaman wrote: »

Do you need to put plastic down aswell as mulch or will mulch on its own be ok?

No, bark mulch is sufficient, once you put a decent depth of it on.

Oldtree

The Gardener wrote: »

It's a term we use, basically you push the spade in its full depth, push the spade forward which pushes the soil forward leaving a cavity at the back of the spade, you then plant the bare root seedling in this cavity making sure not to plant deeper than the nursery mark (the mark above the roots that was at soil level in the nursery). Finish off by firming the soil in around the plant with your boots, firm but gentle, no need to dance around the plant. One important point, don't let the roots dry out at any stage between getting the plants and planting them.

carry plants around in a big plastic bag to prevent drying out in wind, when leaving bag on ground point open end away from the wind.

km79

The Gardener wrote: »

It's a term we use, basically you push the spade in its full depth, push the spade forward which pushes the soil forward leaving a cavity at the back of the spade, you then plant the bare root seedling in this cavity making sure not to plant deeper than the nursery mark (the mark above the roots that was at soil level in the nursery). Finish off by firming the soil in around the plant with your boots, firm but gentle, no need to dance around the plant. One important point, don't let the roots dry out at any stage between getting the plants and planting them.

Thanks . I'm gonna try this way

Dickie10

aanyone know how much to cut back new saplings after the first winter/summer and when is best , im thinking midwinter?