The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

arybvtcw0eolkf

listermint wrote: »

What stops this going back to rusty in about 2 weeks though ?

After all the effort?

Mines as bad as that, never bothered to clean it because it will rust straight away.

I was reading the thread, tbh I wouldn't bother my arse polishing pipes.

I've tried it a few times, you can get a bit of a shine up but it never lasts. Not worth the effort esp if the lad is putting engine bars and bash plate on the bike.

Sonics2k

Cayden Defeated Thunderstorm wrote: »

I was reading the thread, tbh I wouldn't bother my arse polishing pipes.

I've tried it a few times, you can get a bit of a shine up but it never lasts. Not worth the effort esp if the lad is putting engine bars and bash plate on the bike.

Depends on the bike really, and in my opinion of course.

If you've got a bike with nice big, long pipes like a cruiser then it's well worth it. Probably less so on a bike with short or more hidden pipes.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Sonics2k wrote: »

Depends on the bike really, and in my opinion of course.

If you've got a bike with nice big, long pipes like a cruiser then it's well worth it. Probably less so on a bike with short or more hidden pipes.

Trying to polish pipes in the current weather is not easy. Got the autosol yesterday with the intention of polishing today and it bloody rains :mad:

D3V!L

Fitted some radiator guards and a Biketrac tracker to my bike over the last week. Very happy with the Biketrac , some piece of kit and works great out of the box.

Wheeled the bike out of the garage today to go for a spin and decided to check the spokes because of what I was reading about new BMW GS's having problems with them. I was pretty annoyed to find 3 or 4 very loose spokes on the back wheel. It's more or less grounded me until I get it sorted under warranty.

D3V!L

D3V!L wrote: »

Fitted some radiator guards and a Biketrac tracker to my bike over the last week. Very happy with the Biketrac , some piece of kit and works great out of the box.

Wheeled the bike out of the garage today to go for a spin and decided to check the spokes because of what I was reading about new BMW GS's having problems with them. I was pretty annoyed to find 3 or 4 very loose spokes on the back wheel. It's more or less grounded me until I get it sorted under warranty.

Just been told not to drive it by BMW

Sonics2k

D3V!L wrote: »

Fitted some radiator guards and a Biketrac tracker to my bike over the last week. Very happy with the Biketrac , some piece of kit and works great out of the box.

Wheeled the bike out of the garage today to go for a spin and decided to check the spokes because of what I was reading about new BMW GS's having problems with them. I was pretty annoyed to find 3 or 4 very loose spokes on the back wheel. It's more or less grounded me until I get it sorted under warranty.

Is it just me, or are there frequent problems with the GS every few years?

D3V!L

Sonics2k wrote: »

Is it just me, or are there frequent problems with the GS every few years?

Yes, yes there is. Last years debacle was the fork stanchion issue causing the tops of the forks to collapse.

This year its a bad batch of wheels. There's a lot of them being replaced , I'm surprised there was no recall yet.

Sonics2k

D3V!L wrote: »

Yes, yes there is. Last years debacle was the fork stanchion issue causing the tops of the forks to collapse.

This year its a bad batch of wheels. There's a lot of them being replaced , I'm surprised there was no recall yet.

I vaguely remember there being an issue with the ABS on certain bikes too? From 2007 or 2009. Not positive but I vaguely remember them not being fixed under warranty.

It's a damn shame, because they're great bikes but stuff like this really gives people ammunition against them.

D3V!L

Sonics2k wrote: »

I vaguely remember there being an issue with the ABS on certain bikes too? From 2007 or 2009. Not positive but I vaguely remember them not being fixed under warranty.

It's a damn shame, because they're great bikes but stuff like this really gives people ammunition against them.

I believe so, back in the early 2000's. Might be the reason you see the older twin cam models with the ABS pulled off them.

Seemingly this latest kerfuffle is down to having the wheels manufactured by two different companies.

Sonics2k

D3V!L wrote: »

I believe so, back in the early 2000's. Might be the reason you see the older twin cam models with the ABS pulled off them.

Seemingly this latest kerfuffle is down to having the wheels manufactured by two different companies.

Well here's hoping they get this sorted out for you, especially after the recent trouble you had.

Hotblack Desiato

Why people keep buying Bavarian Money Wasters I'll never figure out

listermint

such a fantastic machine, But the price of one versus the issues they have. its unforgivable. They should be bullet proof at that money tbh.

D3V!L

listermint wrote: »

such a fantastic machine, But the price of one versus the issues they have. its unforgivable. They should be bullet proof at that money tbh.

I'd have thought so too. I have the barrel package GS Adventure, so I have a lot of money in it. Far too much at this stage.

I may go back to a reliable Harley next year :pac:

arybvtcw0eolkf

D3V!L wrote: »

I believe so, back in the early 2000's. Might be the reason you see the older twin cam models with the ABS pulled off them.

When I bought my GS from JD's (2010 twin cam) the sales man told me "now you know this one hasn't got ABS?"... "EXCELLENT" says I

On a side now, I was thinking about you.. The young lad who sold you your bike is gone from JD's, I fvcking KNEW you'd break him :pac::pac:

arybvtcw0eolkf

Hotblack Desiato wrote: »

Why people keep buying Bavarian Money Wasters I'll never figure out

You'll figure it out when you're older son :p

D3V!L

Cayden Defeated Thunderstorm wrote: »

When I bought my GS from JD's (2010 twin cam) the sales man told me "now you know this one hasn't got ABS?"... "EXCELLENT" says I

On a side now, I was thinking about you.. The young lad who sold you your bike is gone from JD's, I fvcking KNEW you'd break him :pac::pac:

I doubt it was my doing. Havent been in there since I collected the bike from new. Unless they have a proper shake up and get rid of their shocking attitude I won't set foot in the place again.

arybvtcw0eolkf

D3V!L wrote: »

I doubt it was my doing. Havent been in there since I collected the bike from new. Unless they have a proper shake up and get rid of their shocking attitude I won't set foot in the place again.

Yea they can wind people up alright. I swore blind (as you know) that I'd never touch them again, and honestly I wouldn't have had my son not gone up to look at a bike.

Almost sticks in my throat to say it but I've been very pleased with them so far, but that said my bike hasn't missed a beat either.. As I type I recall an intermittent problem with the headlights but they sorted it no bother.

I made an idiot of myself up there recently. I thought I had a problem with the lights on the clocks, went up and told them there was a problem.

The clocks weren't lighting up, but when I rocked them with my hand they'd come on.. So I showed their 'master mechanics' (when they couldn't find a fault).. So all cock sure of myself I showed him the fault, when I moved the unit with my hand the clocks would light up.

Smiling at me like the cat who got the cream the mechanic showed me the ambient light sensor on the display, when I moved the clocks my hand covered the sensor and the lights would come on Duh

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Weather permitting, i'll be busy tomorrow, they finally fvcking arrived

arybvtcw0eolkf

Cool.

Put the bar's on first because the plate attaches to them. Use copper grease on the plate bolts because you'll need to remove it for servicing and you don't want ceased bolts.

Alternatively and if I can recall properly, I think I was going to drill a large enough hole in the plate to allow me drain the oil without having the take the plate off.

The HEED stuff is excellent quality.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

The bars look easy enough to fit, I offered them up to the bike and sure enough it is straight forward, the engine guard seems a bit different though, I need to remove a bolt from the side stand is how i'm reading the instructions.

(I have a centre stand fitted as well)

arybvtcw0eolkf

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

The bars look easy enough to fit, I offered them up to the bike and sure enough it is straight forward, the engine guard seems a bit different though, I need to remove a bolt from the side stand is how i'm reading the instructions.

(I have a centre stand fitted as well)

Yes, they supply a longer bolt to replace the side stand bolt.

I'm raging I didn't take photos during the assembly of mine now. I think there's a little work in the bolts around the stands but nothing snaggy.

If you think of it this evening go and spray those bolts down with some WD40 as a precaution.

You'll notice the bit of extra weight on the bike when its all fitted, but I think its worth it. I liked the bars for traveling, you can hang extra luggage off them. I had a bicycle water bottle holder on one side of mine and a small bicycle saddle bag which I'd put on to hold change for tolls.

The plate reduces ground clearance, bad with a pillion but you won't notice it one up riding.

Despite the extra weight they're a great addition to a fantastic motorbike. I say it all the time, but I loved my Vstrom and its the one bike I'm sorry I ever got rid of.. I'd say I'll have one again some day.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Cayden Defeated Thunderstorm wrote: »

Yes, they supply a longer bolt to replace the side stand bolt.

I'm raging I didn't take photos during the assembly of mine now. I think there's a little work in the bolts around the stands but nothing snaggy.

If you think of it this evening go and spray those bolts down with some WD40 as a precaution.

You'll notice the bit of extra weight on the bike when its all fitted, but I think its worth it. I liked the bars for traveling, you can hang extra luggage off them. I had a bicycle water bottle holder on one side of mine and a small bicycle saddle bag which I'd put on to hold change for tolls.

The plate reduces ground clearance, bad with a pillion but you won't notice it one up riding.

Despite the extra weight they're a great addition to a fantastic motorbike. I say it all the time, but I loved my Vstrom and its the one bike I'm sorry I ever got rid of.. I'd say I'll have one again some day.

Yeah, between the crash bars and engine guard I have a total of 10 brand new bolts to go onto it.

Found the bolts that are to come off by the side stand and gave them a whack of WD40 in time for tomorrow.

I'll take photos but I doubt it will be as much of a help as any YouTube video.

Definitely worth having those parts on, the extra bit of weight won't be a problem.

Never thought of using them for luggage.

I'd never be carrying a pillion passenger as no one I know is keen on bikes, Did you have the DL650 or the DL1000?

I intend on keeping it for the long haul regardless of what I may buy next, the fuel economy is something else on them.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Bolts are ceased solid so can't fit the crash bars, I even rounded one of them in the process, off to the bike shop on Thursday for fitting.

arybvtcw0eolkf

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Bolts are ceased solid so can't fit the crash bars, I even rounded one of them in the process, off to the bike shop on Thursday for fitting.

They're the bolts in the bike frame?.

They're in tight, but if you're using good quality (ie fitting) tools you should have been able to get them out.

My bike was the DL650.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Cayden Defeated Thunderstorm wrote: »

They're the bolts in the bike frame?.

They're in tight, but if you're using good quality (ie fitting) tools you should have been able to get them out.

My bike was the DL650.

Yes they are the ones. I have a socket and ratchet set and could not shift them, I just gave up after the first one rounded for fear of making it worse.

Probably need an air gun or something to shift them, I put all my weight on it and i'm not a small man by no means, yet it still rounded.

The DL650 is more preferred to the DL1000 is it?

listermint

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Yes they are the ones. I have a socket and ratchet set and could not shift them, I just gave up after the first one rounded for fear of making it worse.

Probably need an air gun or something to shift them, I put all my weight on it and i'm not a small man by no means, yet it still rounded.

The DL650 is more preferred to the DL1000 is it?

Never use am air gun more harm than good. Lubricate thoroughly the night before then used the correctly sized torx and a long wrench. If having trouble apply heat with gas torch

Hotblack Desiato

That's not a torx bolt, just an ordinary allen bolt.

WD40 is a rust preventative not a penetrating fluid, a dedicated penetrating fluid e.g. Plusgas would be better

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Hotblack Desiato wrote: »

That's not a torx bolt, just an ordinary allen bolt.

WD40 is a rust preventative not a penetrating fluid, a dedicated penetrating fluid e.g. Plusgas would be better

Used my socket set bolt and it ended up snapping. I'm assuming it doesn't want to come off easily after 7 years.

Think i'll just give up on trying to do it myself and give the bike a polish.

Gavin

Manual impact wrench/driver

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expert-22322-Screwdriver-12-Piece/dp/B0001K9R8U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536670391&sr=8-2&keywords=manual+impact+wrench

Excellent for this sort of stuck on bolt.

listermint

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Used my socket set bolt and it ended up snapping. I'm assuming it doesn't want to come off easily after 7 years.

Think i'll just give up on trying to do it myself and give the bike a polish.

Here is a solid technique ive used in the past. My own DL650 ive had to drill out fairing bolts before.

Such a pain.

But this technique is ideal for that localised bolt you have there.

https://tinyurl.com/Youtube-Allen-Bolt

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Gavin wrote: »

Manual impact wrench/driver

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expert-22322-Screwdriver-12-Piece/dp/B0001K9R8U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536670391&sr=8-2&keywords=manual+impact+wrench

Excellent for this sort of stuck on bolt.

Might look into buying that actually.

listermint wrote: »

Here is a solid technique ive used in the past. My own DL650 ive had to drill out fairing bolts before.

Such a pain.
But this technique is ideal for that localised bolt you have there.

https://tinyurl.com/Youtube-Allen-Bolt

Jasus :eek:

Could I even manage it without damaging the frame.

Could be a case of a drill alright.

listermint

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Might look into buying that actually.

Jasus :eek:

Could I even manage it without damaging the frame.

Could be a case of a drill alright.

Well realistcally it just slow and methodical . Your shocking the bolt into action. have to catch it right and have a reasonable chisel.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

listermint wrote: »

Well realistcally it just slow and methodical . Your shocking the bolt into action. have to catch it right and have a reasonable chisel.

Can't get at the bolt with a chisel without damaging the frame

Looks like an impact driver is needed.

Have to get one small area painted on the bike as well, don't know the name of it nor do I know if it is removable, will post it once I get home.

zubair

If you rounded one try the epoxy trick someone shared here previously. Once you've sorted the rounding make sure to get plenty of leverage and use a long pipe as an improvised breaker bar with your rachet.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

I'll give it one last go in the morning, if it doesn't work then it will have to be a workshop job. I considered an airgun but was advised against it by a previous poster.

Hotblack Desiato

You might as well get a proper 1/2" breaker bar if you intend to ever change chain and sprockets yourself. I can undo the front sprocket nut no problem with one of these while sitting on the bike and using the back brake to lock the wheel. (on some bikes it's allegedly possible to chip a tooth off 1st gear if trying to use that to hold the sprocket)

On my bike with single sided swingarm it's needed to undo the very tight rear wheel nut if taking the wheel off.

Not dear either

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Hotblack Desiato wrote: »

You might as well get a proper 1/2" breaker bar if you intend to ever change chain and sprockets yourself. I can undo the front sprocket nut no problem with one of these while sitting on the bike and using the back brake to lock the wheel. (on some bikes it's allegedly possible to chip a tooth off 1st gear if trying to use that to hold the sprocket)

On my bike with single sided swingarm it's needed to undo the very tight rear wheel nut if taking the wheel off.

Not dear either

Plenty of leverage on that.

I plan to do as much as possible, still in the learning phase of it all but who wasn’t at some point or another. I’d pick up one of those in most diy stores would I?

listermint

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Plenty of leverage on that.

I plan to do as much as possible, still in the learning phase of it all but who wasn’t at some point or another. I’d pick up one of those in most diy stores would I?

Motor factors or Halfords

ayux4rj6zql2ph

listermint wrote: »

Motor factors or Halfords

Thank you listermint

arybvtcw0eolkf

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Plenty of leverage on that.

I plan to do as much as possible, still in the learning phase of it all but who wasn’t at some point or another. I’d pick up one of those in most diy stores would I?

If you're just starting out then I'd recommend starting with good quality tools, starting with any of the Halfords 'Advanced' range (used to be called 'Professional').

The carry a life time warranty, no quibbles. I've been using Halfords range on cars and bikes for years and only broke one ratchet ~ it was entirely my fault, I stripe it changing suspension units on my sons car, it was changed without receipt & no questions asked.

For the 150 piece you'll pay €160 and €210 for the 200 piece socket set. Sounds expensive but it'll pay for itself in savings many, many times over.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Cayden Defeated Thunderstorm wrote: »

If you're just starting out then I'd recommend starting with good quality tools, starting with any of the Halfords 'Advanced' range (used to be called 'Professional').

The carry a life time warranty, no quibbles. I've been using Halfords range on cars and bikes for years and only broke one ratchet ~ it was entirely my fault, I stripe it changing suspension units on my sons car, it was changed without receipt & no questions asked.

For the 150 piece you'll pay €160 and €210 for the 200 piece socket set. Sounds expensive but it'll pay for itself in savings many, many times over.

The set I have is powerfix, cost €90 in Lidl, was doing the job fine until the other day. The Halfords set looks cheap to me, unless I am looking at the wrong ones altogether, which might well be the case.

Think i'll go back in and have a look at those sets and to buy a power bar as well, that's what they are called is it?

I borrowed one earlier on from one of the neighbours around here that i'm friendly with, it worked.

Crash bars and engine guard are fitted now, will upload pictures later this evening.

Next on that agenda is heated grips and handguards, both the Oxford brand.

I'll be broke by the end of it all :pac:

listermint

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

The set I have is powerfix, cost €90 in Lidl, was doing the job fine until the other day. The Halfords set looks cheap to me, unless I am looking at the wrong ones altogether, which might well be the case.

Think i'll go back in and have a look at those sets and to buy a power bar as well, that's what they are called is it?

I borrowed one earlier on from one of the neighbours around here that i'm friendly with, it worked.

Crash bars and engine guard are fitted now, will upload pictures later this evening.

Next on that agenda is heated grips and handguards, both the Oxford brand.

I'll be broke by the end of it all :pac:

Halfords Advanced Sets are the business, They come in different sizes i.e more tools or less but they are all the advanced range. Buy what you can afford.

nice one on the bars, feels good to get a job complete.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Laptop caught a virus when I tried to upload on tinypic so I have to resort to the mobile to upload the photos of the crash bars, they look well.

blade1

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Laptop caught a virus when I tried to upload on tinypic so I have to resort to the mobile to upload the photos of the crash bars, they look well.

You can use tinypic on your mobile as well

New parts look the job.
How old is the bike?
Paint flaking a lot for what seems a fairly new bike.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

blade1 wrote: »

You can use tinypic on your mobile as well

New parts look the job.
How old is the bike?
Paint flaking a lot for what seems a fairly new bike.

Really :eek:

She’s a 2011

Can that part be removed or what is it covering?

blade1

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Really :eek:

She’s a 2011

I suppose it's 7 years old all the same.
And they don't paint them like they used to.

blade1

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Can that part be removed or what is it covering?

It can yeah.
It's the flywheel cover.
If you do take it off,watch your fingers or any loose wires when you are putting it back on.
The magnetic force off the flywheel may be fairly strong.

listermint

Kenzie Yummy Slogan wrote: »

Laptop caught a virus when I tried to upload on tinypic so I have to resort to the mobile to upload the photos of the crash bars, they look well.

Same colour as mine . LO model too.

Yeah the paint on the Japanese stuff is shiiiiiite.

Tbh I'd just buy plastic covers for the engine the paint will go bad again. There is lovely covers available to cover the stator cover there. And the water pump other side too

ayux4rj6zql2ph

blade1 wrote: »

It can yeah.
It's the flywheel cover.
If you do take it off,watch your fingers or any loose wires when you are putting it back on.
The magnetic force off the flywheel may be fairly strong.

Here’s a photo I took of it close up just now.

The bike is a UK import, it was bought by a Meath based Dublin business man in June 2016, the dealer I bought it from bought it from that guy 2 weeks before I got it. That probably explains the paint work.

I intend on keeping the bike indefinitely, I like it that much.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

listermint wrote: »

Same colour as mine . LO model too.

Yeah the paint on the Japanese stuff is shiiiiiite.

Tbh I'd just buy plastic covers for the engine the paint will go bad again. There is lovely covers available to cover the stator cover there. And the water pump other side too

Covers to go over those parts? It looks poor (the paint) I admit.