The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

blade1

blade1 wrote: »

Also exhaust needs welding.
One day it was fine and the next it was just after splitting.

All sorted and no need to remove the exhaust from the bike :pac:



Lovely job done on it by the welder and €50 well spent



Also I think it was time for new tyres on my Mille :eek:
Off with the Super Corsa's



And on with Metzler
Love these wheels

H_Lime

Better than new nice one:)!

listermint

You putting the tyres on yourself?

blade1

listermint wrote: »

You putting the tyres on yourself?

I bring the wheels to someone.

Emmersonn

blade 1 What big ears you've got. :eek:;)

blade1

Emmersonn wrote: »

blade 1 What big ears you've got. :eek:;)

Not me.
I wish I was that good at welding.
I have to rely on my good looks to get through life :pac:

H_Lime

Blade,was that welding done in little isl engineering by any chance? Be handy to know as the last place that tigged for me was a little ropey.

Where do you bring the oz wheels for tyres, you must trust them?

blade1

H_Lime wrote: »

Blade,was that welding done in little isl engineering by any chance? Be handy to know as the last place that tigged for me was a little ropey.

Where do you bring the oz wheels for tyres, you must trust them?

Welding done in B&C engineering Youghal.
He even cut off this bracket to get in around with the Tig and put it back on after.


Mick Flynn between Youghal and Dungarvan does my tyres.
Yeah I would trust him.

Metzler go on ok.
I'd be sweating a bit more fitting Bridgestone.

H_Lime

blade1 wrote: »

Welding done in B&C engineering Youghal.
He even cut off this bracket to get in around with the Tig and put it back on after.


Mick Flynn between Youghal and Dungarvan does my tyres.
Yeah I would trust him.

Metzler go on ok.
I'd be sweating a bit more fitting Bridgestone.

Handy to know re the welding, I occasionally need stuff tigged and cahir engineering are grand but more suited to agricultural kinda vibes.

Good to have a fella you can trust rims with, I gave up there and do me own.

Hotblack Desiato

Is the rear sprocket really as narrow as it looks in that pic?

Anything to save a few grams, you'd be better off having a good sh!te before going for a spin :pac:

blade1

Headstock bearings today

The QuietMan

blade1 wrote: »

Headstock bearings today

Looks interesting! I’m getting my fork seals done in 2 weeks, would it be wise to get these done as well while the forks are off?

H_Lime

What's yer goo of choice.
You used the welder I see:) can't beat it.
EDIT I'm going blind you cut the race in half, nice idea!

blade1

The QuietMan wrote: »

Looks interesting! I’m getting my fork seals done in 2 weeks, would it be wise to get these done as well while the forks are off?

Maybe if u think they weren't done.

Btw, I sent u an email about a bike.
Not sure if you got it or not.

blade1

H_Lime wrote: »

What's yer goo of choice.
You used the welder I see:) can't beat it.
EDIT I'm going blind you cut the race in half, nice idea!

We're jammin' :pac:



I cut the old bearings after I removed them just so when I used them to push in the new ones they were easy to remove.

This is how I put the new one in place.

The QuietMan

blade1 wrote: »

Maybe if u think they weren't done.

Btw, I sent u an email about a bike.
Not sure if you got it or not.

Be no harm to err on the side of caution i guess.
Just checked, got no email, you probably sent it to the one ending in .com it's now .ie thanks to microsoft and their fcuking security policy.

k**********l@outlook.ie is the email

blade1

Chain and sprockets fitted today.

zubair

Shine!

Tell me this, do you find the plating comes off after a while or am I scrubbing to hard lol

H_Lime

blade1 wrote: »

Chain and sprockets fitted today.

Lookin fresh my friend and the pins look spot on!

blade1

zubair wrote: »

Shine!

Tell me this, do you find the plating comes off after a while or am I scrubbing to hard lol

No issue with that Zubair but I clean by rubbing a.cloth with kerosene usually.

H_Lime wrote: »

Lookin fresh my friend and the pins look spot on!

Link probably wouldn't come off if you did nothing to the pins but always better to be safe than sorry.
Its not going anywhere and the link is moving freely so all good.

H_Lime

blade1 wrote: »

No issue with that Zubair but I clean by rubbing a.cloth with kerosene usually.



Link probably wouldn't come off if you did nothing to the pins but always better to be safe than sorry.
Its not going anywhere and the link is moving freely so all good.

Walk down a row of parked bikes you will regularly see rivet links on the lower chain run kinked after going past the tight radius of the front sprocket. Bad mojo. Fair dues man on that detail that even shops screw up on and is the reason I learnt how.
Super eager to use me new whale tool too after reading that

blade1

H_Lime wrote: »

Walk down a row of parked bikes you will regularly see rivet links on the lower chain run kinked after going past the tight radius of the front sprocket. Bad mojo. Fair dues man on that detail that even shops screw up on and is the reason I learnt how.
Super eager to use me new whale tool too after reading that

The thing about doing your own stuff is you can double check it after.

I got a loan of a d.i.d. tool to do it.
It was fine but not in the same league as a whale.
A lot of cash for such a tool.
You must be going at chains for a living :pac:

H_Lime

blade1 wrote: »

The thing about doing your own stuff is you can double check it after.

I got a loan of a d.i.d. tool to do it.
It was fine but not in the same league as a whale.
A lot of cash for such a tool.
You must be going at chains for a living :pac:

Not as expensive as you might think
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chain-Extractor-Riveter-520-to-632-Chain-Whale-Brand-Japan-Each-/114024436173
My tools are basic enough but over time I'm trying to replace the fundamentals with good quality ones. Yrs and yrs ago the lads in ndm in dublin replaced my c&s and they took the whale tool out of its box like bread from the tabernacle lol. Those boys knew their sh1t so it was ear marked.

H_Lime

Head and barrel back from Murphys. Light (0.1mm) skim, decoke, valve stem seals and lapped in. Barrel honed.
With the upgraded CCT installed she's good to go back together.

H_Lime

Who else is interfering with their machine?? I can't be the only serial tool abuser here:pac:


Hard to get slide guides and magic seals.


Polished the needle valve seats. Viton seals again.
I. Don't. Want. Leaks:eek:


Float heights set to 14mm.
I. Don't. Want. Rich:(


Handy pilot screw.


Later Bst36 float bowls with overflow tubes so no washing out the oil if she does overflow.

So that's that (lol!). As I'm fitting a hayabusa oem exhaust and larger di stainless header I've upped the mains to a saucy 127.5.

The QuietMan

This is a major achievement for me plus all the locks on the bike

blade1

The QuietMan wrote: »

This is a major achievement for me plus all the locks on the bike

Much better.
Did it come off ok in the end?
Polish up the other ones in your spare time and sell them.
Get your money back that you spent on the new ones.

The QuietMan

blade1 wrote: »

Much better.
Did it come off ok in the end?
Polish up the other ones in your spare time and sell them.
Get your money back that you spent on the new ones.

It did to be be fair, straight off! I don’t think they’ll polish out at all though.

The QuietMan

I’ve started my next challenge

l

The QuietMan

The joys of aftermarket fúcking parts :mad:

blade1

Possibly the green = Black/White
and Grey = Black.
Was there a green on both left and right originally?

Have you got bullet connectors so you can connect and disconnect if they don't work.
They'll either work or they won't.

The QuietMan

blade1 wrote: »

Possibly the green = Black/White
and Grey = Black.
Was there a green on both left and right originally?

Have you got bullet connectors so you can connect and disconnect if they don't work.
They'll either work or they won't.

Might take a trip to the local auto sparks and ask him to fit bullet connections to the other wire, I cut it off the old light. There was a green wire on the outside of the bulb housing, blue one went into it.

airhead_eire

The QuietMan wrote: »

Might take a trip to the local auto sparks and ask him to fit bullet connections to the other wire, I cut it off the old light. There was a green wire on the outside of the bulb housing, blue one went into it.

The wire with the white stripe is most likely positive i.e. 12v and the other earth. You could easily swap the connector types yourself with a soldering iron.

blade1

The QuietMan wrote: »

Might take a trip to the local auto sparks and ask him to fit bullet connections to the other wire, I cut it off the old light. There was a green wire on the outside of the bulb housing, blue one went into it.

Sounds like the blue one is positive so.
Can you remove the lens's and see where the wires are and match them like that?

The QuietMan

blade1 wrote: »

Sounds like the blue one is positive so.
Can you remove the lens's and see where the wires are and match them like that?

Got it soldered by the local sparks for a fiver. The thing still doesn’t work! Fuse is fine, both left side and right rear indicator with, no idea where to look now

I’ve tried changing the connections around and still nothing. It did work when I got it, one of the kids knocked off it and it hasn’t worked since

The QuietMan

airhead_eire wrote: »

The wire with the white stripe is most likely positive i.e. 12v and the other earth. You could easily swap the connector types yourself with a soldering iron.

Got it done, still doesn’t work :mad:

airhead_eire

Have you a multimeter or a 12v phase tester ? If so, do a continuity test with the multimeter set to Ohms to determine which wire is earth i.e. the ground wire should have zero resistance between itself and the negative battery terminal (or any other earth point).

Hotblack Desiato

It doesn't matter which way around you connect an ordinary bulb, and why would they make an aftermarket LED indicator that huge?

Lidl have a multimeter on sale tomorrow, €12.99, well worth having.

https://www.lidl.ie/en/p/diy-deals/digital-auto-range-multimeter/p38329

CJhaughey

Check the bulbs are good, then see if there is power at the connector on the bike.

blade1

Hotblack Desiato wrote: »

Lidl have a multimeter on sale tomorrow, €12.99, well worth having.

https://www.lidl.ie/en/p/diy-deals/digital-auto-range-multimeter/p38329

Just bought one there as my own one seems to have a mind of its own lately.
Thought I bought one with dodgy cables but they just need to be pushed down harder than usual.
My old cables are better quality so I'm using them with it instead but other than that seems robust enough.
Comes with a battery as well so worth the money alright.

two wheels good

The QuietMan wrote: »

Might take a trip to the local auto sparks and ask him to fit bullet connections to the other wire, I cut it off the old light. There was a green wire on the outside of the bulb housing, blue one went into it.

Crimp the bullet connector yourself with a pliers. You can get a better long- lasting connection later. No risk of damage.
Or a Posi-lock connector.. is that the right name? Two wires clamped together in a little tube.

The QuietMan

Did someone say multimeter




Getting a reading of .002

madbev90210

Ok so it's technically not today, was Monday, and is nothing to do with fixing my bike or anything but riding very slow (about 10 km ph) into work and three women are walking towards me with dogs. Its essentially a small road but used lots by locals out walking etc. Usually I get dirty looks from them as I ride by which I happily ignore but on Monday, one woman just literally stood on front of me while the other 2 moved and before I knew it, my front wheel was literally spinning at this cute dogs head while she just stood there!

Obviously I immediately put on the brakes but she just started ranting away and I was in too much shock to call her out on not moving over but the I stopped and asked was the dog ok, which thankfully he was!

I wouldn't mind but I thought I was driving extra cautiously as I'm internally practicing for my test everyday but what are the chances!

Here's to hoping I never hit anything again (except maybe the ground!) on my bike!

The QuietMan

Hoping to get around to fitting this later on, can’t complain for €15, the one on the bike is held together with tie wraps in several different pieces.

traco

Washed it and put it on donedeal, just not using it

The QuietMan

The difference between a 98/99 Fireblade :rolleyes:

blade1

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Should be the same.

The QuietMan

blade1 wrote: »

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Should be the same.

Bar that gap the rest of it is the same. The part came from a 98 SC33 in France.

blade1

The QuietMan wrote: »

Bar that gap the rest of it is the same. The part came from a 98 SC33 in France.

Yes but probably a late 1995 to 1997 one.

You were at the bike show in cork yeah.
Did you see the 1995 urban tiger?
That's the shape one,that the part you bought is off, I reckon.

The QuietMan

blade1 wrote: »

Yes but probably a late 1995 to 1997 one.

You were at the bike show in cork yeah.
Did you see the 1995 urban tiger?
That's the shape one,that the part you bought is off, I reckon.

Yeah I seen that blade, the thing is mint.

This is the part

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ie%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333213876794