urgent help with bore sighting

Longranger

Hi all, going out tomorrow with a new scope and I was going to use my cabelas manual bore sighter. But the mounts are too high. I have cz 550 medium mounts and a schmidt and bender 6x42 scope. Any ideas about adjustment or settings would be great. Please help lads, I'm off out at 9 tomorrow so I'm in a bit of a panic. It was a last minute offer that I can't turn down. Normally I'd use the iron sights but I'll be shooting to 400 yds plus so I need the scope big time. Thanks all.
LR

meathstevie

Black dot in the center of a piece of A3 paper ( a cardboard fruit box is perfect for it ). Look through the barrel with the bolt out and sight the barrel on the dot. Do this with the gun clamped in a vice or similar.

When the barrel is aligned with the dot dial in the scope on the dot. Fire a five shot group with the rifle still in the same position, establish the center of the group and dial the scope in on the center of the group. You should be well on something the size of an A3 sheet from 100m so adjustments after the shooting the group should not be too dramatic.

cookimonster

I've always clamped the rifle and bore sighted it on a point on my back garden wall at 20 yards. Then adjust sight onto same mark. This will get you on paper on the range and from there I zero it in as disired.
Maybe its just me but even with a bore sighter I would always want and need to shoot paper before taking it out.

meathstevie got there before me.

clivej

meathstevie wrote: »

Black dot in the center of a piece of A3 paper ( a cardboard fruit box is perfect for it ). Look through the barrel with the bolt out and sight the barrel on the dot. Do this with the gun clamped in a vice or similar.

When the barrel is aligned with the dot dial in the scope on the dot. Fire a five shot group with the rifle still in the same position, establish the center of the group and dial the scope in on the center of the group. You should be well on something the size of an A3 sheet from 100m so adjustments after the shooting the group should not be too dramatic.

Or as above but put the A3 sheet at 25m and your be about on @100m.

Vizzy

Longranger,I'm not even sure if this is even an answer to your question(if not,apologies)
I set the scope on my .223 last Saturday at 130 metres.
Firstly 1 shot at 30 metres to get on paper
Then I adjusted to get zero(remember you will need about twice as many "clicks" at 30m than you will at 100m)
Put the target out to 70m and 1 more shot and hopefully you will still be very close (I was anyway)
Finally,for me anyway,3 shots at 120m.
I needed 2 clicks left and 2 down.

Out to 400m ?? you must have some eyesight with a 6 power sight( I wouldn't see the target never mind any marks on it).

Anyway best of luck

Edit; beaten to it but at least I was concurring with everyone.

Cass

Mounting a scope;

If installing the scope the quick way would be to place the rifle in a gun clamp or very steady front rest and back bag. Place a spirit level on a flat section of the rifle. If none can be got or trusted take the rings apart and screw on the bottom section of the rings leaving the top piece of. Tighten these down. Now place a level across these rings and straighten the rifle. Once your happy, place the scope into the rings and place the top section of the rings on the bootom section over the scope and screw in the screws but DO NOT tighten.

Have a heavy string/line hanging from the ceiling of your hall (at the end of the hall). Weigh it down if necessary. This will give you a dead straight vertical line. Have the rifle pointing towards the string and adjust the position of the scope forward and back in the rings until your eye relief is good (that there is no black when you look into the scope) Twist/turn the scope until the vertical line of the crosshair tallies with the string/line hanging in your hall. Once happy tighten the screws on the rings but do so in an alternating fashion as if you tighten one side fully it will twist the scope in the rings. Problem i find with some lads is even though the crosshairs are perfectly straight everyone holds the rifle at a slight cant and so when they put it to their eye they think the crosshair is leaning. Its not. Resist the temptation to adjust it as canting the crosshair to suit your hold will mean any clicking to zero the scope will result in angled adjustments rather than perfectly up/down or left/right adjustments.

Go to a range or find a fixed spot at home. Somewhere around the 50yd mark is grand. Have the elevation of your scope trned down to zero. Have the windage adjustments centralised. As in if there is 50 minutes (moa) of adjustment have it set for 25moa. Have the bolt removed and with the rifle unclamped adjust the rifle until you can see the target down the barrel. The muzzle of the gun will appear as a circle and must sit perfectly "central" in the circle created by the breach. Once this is done make sure the target is central in the circles created by the muzzle and breach. Have the rifle reclamped making sure the target is still central in the bore/barrel. Now without moving the rifle look through the scope and see where the crosshairs are in relation to the target. Adjust the crosshairs up to and left/right until they meet the target. Now once more check the bore/barrel sight and scope sight. If you are happy both are pointing at the same target time to replace the bolt and fire a shot (this is why i recommen doing this at a range). Find where the shot impacted. Measure the distance from your point of impact to the target bull and adjust your scope as necessary. gain fire another shot. You should be either in or very close to the bull. Make one more adjustment if you are not in the bull and fire one more round. You should be zeroed at this point

Bore Sighting a scope;

Turn the clicks on the scope (elevation) down to the lowest setting. Now turn the clicks on your windage adjustment all the way left (or right). Now turn it in the other direction while keeping count of the mintes/clicks. If its (for talks sake) 50 moa turn it back 25. Now your windage is centralised. Place the rifle in a clamp and check its level. When you peer down the barrel make sure the circle made by the muzzle is central in the circle made by the breach.



Move the rifle (not your head) until the target (at least 2ft x 1.5ft with concentric circles)



can be seen . Now keep the target in view through the barrel while trying to keep both "circles" central. Once you think you have the target in the barrel and all aspects centralised and secured, reclamp the rifle again making sure nothing moves. Now look through the scope and see where your crosshairs are in relation to the target. Turn up your elevation turret until you are approx. level with where you have sighted the barrel. Go between the barrel sight and scope and try to narrow down the difference in "point of impact". Adjust elevation and windage as appropriate.

Bolt in and load a round. Steady yourself and fire. Check your point of impact. Adjust your scope the necessary clicks to compesate for wind drift and high or low impact. Your scope is probably .25" click value at 100yds so don't forget you'll have half that movement at 50yds. So if you are 2" out it will take 16 clicks to move the 2" rather than the 8 clicks at 100yds. Don't forget that this is scope movement, as in straight line of sight. The trajectory of the bullet being used will determine whether the full amount of clicks is needed or if more are. Anyway load a second round after adjusting the scope and fire. You should be very close if not in the bull. Adjust scope again if necessary. Load and fire a third round. this one should be in the bull (weather and shooter permitting).

Make note of the turret markings and record them as your 50 yd zero. Now move to 100yds. Fresh target. Without adjusting the scope fire at the 100yd target. Take note of the bullet drop and adjust your scope accordingly to compensate. Fire another 2 or 3 rounds to establish a group. When you are happy with your group, record the turret markings and if possible zero the turrets and keep as your 100 yd zero. You can then move to 200 and 300 if you want. Fire and adjust the scope. Record the bullet drop and click value to compensate ans voila you have your drop chart started.

Of course you could always go for a bore sighter/ laser guide and cut out half the crap i just wrote. Whatever works for you. If you find when firing at the 50 or 100yd targets that the rifle cannot keep a group or still will not hit paper then i'm afraid it may be a bit more serious than just needing to be rezeroed. At all stages keep checking screws and making sure all items are tight.

Hope this is of some help.

Small tip for short range bore sight. Place a card at 25 yards as said above. Draw an aiming crosshair. 1 inch below this crosshair/bullseye draw a horizontal line. At 25 yards when the bore is pointed at the bullseye the crosshair of your scope should be on the line 1 inch below the bull. This is not a guarantee, but i have used this to bore sight everything from a .223 to .308 and most rifle are at worse, a couple of inches out (normally vertical).

juice1304

That pic of the rifling is pretty cool.:):cool::cool:

cookimonster

Some may scorn or scoff.
But I find the Strelock balistics software quite good. Once you do your measurements: scope hieght, bolt diameter etc and fill the relevant info its very good for getting you close as damn it when moving out to different ranges. I zero in at close ranges and then adjust elevation based on the soft ware, move out to further range and shoot again. I've had success with differnt calibers, grains etc. Saves on rnds.
Good for Dope Sheets, I have put this to practice with a .22 shooting HV from 50m to 150m in increments of 25m.

deerhunter1

cookimonster wrote: »

I've always clamped the rifle and bore sighted it on a point on my back garden wall at 20 yards. Then adjust sight onto same mark. This will get you on paper on the range and from there I zero it in as disired.
Maybe its just me but even with a bore sighter I would always want and need to shoot paper before taking it out.

meathstevie got there before me.

Agree + 1 on that

Longranger

Thanks for the tips everyone. Ended up doing it the old fashioned way. Bolt out, looked through the bore and lined everything up. Four shots later I was set. Got a five shot group smaller than a 2 euro coin at 150 yds. Went hunting,got fcuk all, went to the pub, went home, got bollocked by the missus,now I'm going to bed! :-D happy days!

clivej

Longranger wrote: »

Thanks for the tips everyone. Ended up doing it the old fashioned way. Bolt out, looked through the bore and lined everything up. Four shots later I was set. Got a five shot group smaller than a 2 euro coin at 150 yds. Went hunting,got fcuk all, went to the pub, went home, got bollocked by the missus,now I'm going to bed! :-D happy days!

SO apart from not getting anything everything else when per usual ;)

tac foley

This is NOT my video - but it IS the method that I've used for the last 40-something years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=qwD5zu7yTeI

It's best if you can either clamp the gun down, or use a set-up like the MTM cleaning box unit.

tac