Cartomisers Question

rickyjb

So I got 5 Boge XL cartomisers, a hole punch and a smoktech tank. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but it seems to leak constantly. If you leave the punched cartomiser inside the tank for too long without using it does it flood or something?

I have a couple of questions: How many holes should I punch in it? I put 2 opposite each other at right angles to the piece of string at the top.

Are you meant to leave the white cap at the top in or out before you push the drip tip in?

Bit disappointed with them to be honest but maybe I'm just doing something wrong.

Is there something out there I can use which doesn't leak?? (Kangers are also leaking from time to time). I'm sick of getting nicotine juice in my mouth!

kiffy

rickyjb wrote: »

So I got 5 Boge XL cartomisers, a hole punch and a smoktech tank. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but it seems to leak constantly.

Ricky your not supposed to punch a hole in the tank that's why it's leaking

Green Hornet

I have Boges and a Kir Fanis tank. I punch one hole using a carto punch and the thing never leaks. Either from the tank or the carto.

I used to use a Smoktech DCT and Smoktech cartos (pre-punched) before but it was not as robust a unit and the hole was tiny. With a proper punch the hole is much much bigger than the Smoktech ones anyway.

I'd say if you're punching 2 holes the carto is flooding. One is enough in my experience.

rickyjb

So that's where I'm going wrong... I was wondering how it was so difficult to fit the tank inside the carto punch:rolleyes:

Any other suggestions?? The hole punch is not great, it pushes in the side of the carto before it punches a hole.

Green Hornet

I use a Kir Fanis punch and that puts a fair dent in the carto as well. It presses the wall in until the tip punctures the wall. You screw it until it stops at the preset level. Never a problem putting the carto into the tank though.

rickyjb

Green Hornet wrote: »

I have Boges and a Kir Fanis tank. I punch one hole using a carto punch and the thing never leaks. Either from the tank or the carto.

I used to use a Smoktech DCT and Smoktech cartos (pre-punched) before but it was not as robust a unit and the hole was tiny. With a proper punch the hole is much much bigger than the Smoktech ones anyway.

I'd say if you're punching 2 holes the carto is flooding. One is enough in my experience.

Thanks, I'll try punching just one hole in another one and see how I get on. The smoktech tank with the boge cartomisers isn't a great combo as it can slide all the way up or down, juice gets everywhere.

Green Hornet

Yeah, I thought about trying the boges in my DCT as well but opted to spend a few quid from Bargain Vapours instead and get a decent kit. I got a cheap Kir Fanis (which is a quality manufacturer) tank and a KF punch for about 25 euro total. The carto never slides in the tank unless I force it but they supply a collar if you don't already have one.

I'm not the biggest fan of cartos but this works very well and I've had no problems at all. Only issue is that cartos don't quite satisfy me on lower nic compared to my Bulli or RDA but its a decent kit.

rickyjb

Should you prefill the carto by dripping into the top before you put it in the tank?

Edit: Think I've cracked it, looks like the tank was too close to the body of the vamo so no air was getting through causing the juice to get sucked up. Seems to be working fine now. Inhaling without pressing the button seems to be a good way of filling an empty carto.

On a side note pink tiger is... interesting

Green Hornet

Definitely!! Yes!!

I prefill using the condom method by 3/4 filling the rubber cap and pushing the connector end slowly down into the juice. This forces the juice up inside and soaks the carto. Blow it out and wipe with a tissue then just to make sure the air channel is clear. You could drip it in either but its slow.

rickyjb

Green Hornet wrote: »

Definitely!! Yes!!

I prefill using the condom method by 3/4 filling the rubber cap and pushing the connector end slowly down into the juice. This forces the juice up inside and soaks the carto. Blow it out and wipe with a tissue then just to make sure the air channel is clear. You could drip it in either but its slow.

I saw a video on youtube where the guy put the carto into the tank dry but then sucked it up by covering the air hole, seems to work ok.

Final thing I haven't figured out is do you leave the small white cap on the top of the carto before putting the drip tip on??

I've been pushing it down into the carto with the drip tip thinking that it would reduce leaks into my mouth.

grindle

Take the white piece out, definitely.

rickyjb

grindle wrote: »

Take the white piece out, definitely.

Thanks for your help grindle, think that's answered all my questions (for now!)

Mr. Chrome

Check out the new agr cartomizer tank, it holds a boge carto, both sizes, comes with 2 tubes and cannot slide off, I have one in the post!

rickyjb

Mr. Chrome wrote: »

Check out the new agr cartomizer tank, it holds a boge carto, both sizes, comes with 2 tubes and cannot slide off, I have one in the post!

Sounds interesting, thanks. Where did you order it from?

I actually got a AGA-T from someone on here, had my first go at it last night. Didn't get any hotspots but the silica wick I used looks quite black and burned and there's not much vapuor from it.

What kind of set up do people use with their genesis atomisers? There are so many different vids and options, I wouldn't mind trying a dual coil as I'd prefer as much vapuor as possible but I can't seem to find a straight forward video.

Any suggestions? Maybe I should start a new thread...

Mr. Chrome

I ordered the agr from a shop in the uk called vapegear but e-smokeireland have them too, cant comment on it as i'm still waiting on it, want to go down the rebuildable route myself but it looks like it could be a real pain in the ass!!!

grindle

rickyjb wrote: »

What kind of set up do people use with their genesis atomisers? There are so many different vids and options, I wouldn't mind trying a dual coil as I'd prefer as much vapuor as possible but I can't seem to find a straight forward video.

Any suggestions? Maybe I should start a new thread...

#400 SS mesh rolled tight (45x65mm).

Just make sure to do your maths properly where the wire's concerned and you'll be grand... eventually.

Make sure you get good at building a single, trouble-free coil in the AGA before you try a dual in it - one of my major pitfalls was thinking "I've dual-coiled everything else, why not this?".

You'd get better vapour using a single coil made with twisted wire facing the airhole in the AGA than with a dual coil - the chamber is so large in the AGA, and the wick on the opposite side of the airhole, that all the second coil really does is give a humongous (crippling) throathit.
Mmmmmmm...crippppplinnnnng throooooathittttt.

rickyjb

grindle wrote: »

#400 SS mesh rolled tight (45x65mm).

Just make sure to do your maths properly where the wire's concerned and you'll be grand... eventually.

Make sure you get good at building a single, trouble-free coil in the AGA before you try a dual in it - one of my major pitfalls was thinking "I've dual-coiled everything else, why not this?".

You'd get better vapour using a single coil made with twisted wire facing the airhole in the AGA than with a dual coil - the chamber is so large in the AGA, and the wick on the opposite side of the airhole, that all the second coil really does is give a humongous (crippling) throathit.
Mmmmmmm...crippppplinnnnng throooooathittttt.

It did seem very harsh even though there wasn't much vapour but I assumed that was down to the burning...

I've only got a little bit of mesh (edit: it's 500), one thickness of silica and a bit of 0.20 wire (sounds like the plot of a MacGyver episode), is it possible to just roll the mesh into a wick and wrap the wire around it? If so I'll give that a go. It really looks like the juice will leak out around the SS wick if I do this though, are you meant to always store the AGAs upright when they've got juice in them?

And how does maths come into??

grindle

rickyjb wrote: »

It did seem very harsh even though there wasn't much vapour but I assumed that was down to the burning...

If it tasted burnt, then it was the burning. If it tasted fine but had extra scratchiness an the throat, that'd be the result of not being directly in front of the hole.

rickyjb wrote: »

I've only got a little bit of mesh (edit: it's 500), one thickness of silica and a bit of 0.20 wire (sounds like the plot of a MacGyver episode), is it possible to just roll the mesh into a wick and wrap the wire around it? If so I'll give that a go. It really looks like the juice will leak out around the SS wick if I do this though, are you meant to always store the AGAs upright when they've got juice in them?

Ah, yeah, the mesh is supposed to be rolled into a wick. Or am I picking you up wrong?
All genesis atties have this problem with the keeping them relatively upright. The tighter the wick fits into the hole and the less of a hole there is in the middle of the wick, the less leaking, but it will happen.
If you must store it sideways try to keep the airhole facing up. That way, once you have it upright, the leaked liquid will drain back into the tank.

rickyjb wrote: »

And how does maths come into??

The amp limit will be reached quicker if you use lower ohm coils. Less of an issue with the Vamo as it has a useful amp-limit, but making higher ohm coils will result in better battery life.

Lets say you make two 3ohm coils for your dual-coil (making it a 1.5ohm dual-coil).
The highest voltage the Vamo will push with a single battery in this case is 4.9v (a delicious 16 watt - 8watt-per-coil vape)
If you made that dual-coil out of two 4.5ohm coils you'd get to push the voltage to 6v to get the same 16watt (8-watt-per coil) and use 25% less energy doing so.
So the battery will last a good bit longer.

rickyjb

grindle wrote: »

If it tasted burnt, then it was the burning. If it tasted fine but had extra scratchiness an the throat, that'd be the result of not being directly in front of the hole.

Ah, yeah, the mesh is supposed to be rolled into a wick. Or am I picking you up wrong?
All genesis atties have this problem with the keeping them relatively upright. The tighter the wick fits into the hole and the less of a hole there is in the middle of the wick, the less leaking, but it will happen.
If you must store it sideways try to keep the airhole facing up. That way, once you have it upright, the leaked liquid will drain back into the tank.

The amp limit will be reached quicker if you use lower ohm coils. Less of an issue with the Vamo as it has a useful amp-limit, but making higher ohm coils will result in better battery life.

Lets say you make two 3ohm coils for your dual-coil (making it a 1.5ohm dual-coil).
The highest voltage the Vamo will push with a single battery in this case is 4.9v (a delicious 16 watt - 8watt-per-coil vape)
If you made that dual-coil out of two 4.5ohm coils you'd get to push the voltage to 6v to get the same 16watt (8-watt-per coil) and use 25% less energy doing so.
So the battery will last a good bit longer.

I would've thought higher resistance would use more battery but I guess not.

Are SS steel wicks a waste of time if you don't have a blow torch or can you oxidise them with a lighter? If using a lighter is it better to do it before you roll it up? I might try the drill bit method later on (mainly as I happen to have the correct size bit), should I use twisted wire when I'm making the coil?

Thanks.

grindle

rickyjb wrote: »

I would've thought higher resistance would use more battery but I guess not.

Are SS steel wicks a waste of time if you don't have a blow torch or can you oxidise them with a lighter? If using a lighter is it better to do it before you roll it up? I might try the drill bit method later on (mainly as I happen to have the correct size bit), should I use twisted wire when I'm making the coil?

Thanks.

Nah, you can do it with a lighter, it's just slower.

You can do it beforehand, but you still need to d it afterward in case anything has scraped anything else while rolling so...
If you're making a single coil, yes, using twisted wire does give better performance (vapour-wise) than a dual-coil (in the AGA or any system where one coil is far away for the airhole), but using twisted wire for two coils brings the resistance down so low you'd need ~10cm of twisted wire for each coil to get any reasonable heat within the amp-limit, so I wouldn't do that. Takes longer for that amount of wire to heat up as well.

Lucutus

grindle wrote: »

Nah, you can do it with a lighter, it's just slower.

I've had success with this method on the Aga-T, might be worth a try for you if if you have no torch?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pk4h4W0EQOU

we must organise a group buy for some of the 500 mesh grindle!

grindle

Lucutus wrote: »

we must organise a group buy for some of the 500 mesh grindle!

We were meant to do that ages ago, weren't we?

Okay, I'm gonna suss out buying that and I think Digby wanted some Kanthal and NR wire.
I'm thinking of trying out Kanthal ribbon wire as well if anybody else wants to put their tuppence in on that?

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

wtf is kanthal ribbon wire?

--edit

and that site doesnt have any .13 kanthal

grindle

.13 Kanthal? Aiming for low wraps & super-high resistance?

Kanthal ribbon is a flattened wire, saw them chatting about it on vapepit.
More surface area touching wick, no chance of a hotspot with it apparently.
Have a sconce:

The one I've seen for sale has the same resistance as .20 Kanthal wire, so I'm gonna check it out.

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

oh, that looks interesting

always wanted to try the SS mesh as a coil over cotton wick but just was not arsed with the faff, that stuff looks easier

and yeah I want 3.5'ish ohm coil with 4-5 wraps so .13 should do the job

rickyjb

Count me in for any group buys of mesh or wire...

grindle

Will do. Just need to find this ribbon shįt in stock somewhere. Those 'Muricans have been buying all of it it seems. Nice vdeo of vapour production.

What a nerdy sentence.

Mr. Chrome

getting off the subject a bit here boys but my agr carto tank arrived today and i love it, looks like it was made for the vamo, matches perfectly, but with the large tank on it makes the vamo f****** huge:eek:

Celly Smunt

Mr. Chrome wrote: »

getting off the subject a bit here boys but my agr carto tank arrived today and i love it, looks like it was made for the vamo, matches perfectly, but with the large tank on it makes the vamo f****** huge:eek:

Now you'll have to put up with "is that Dr.Who's screwdriver!?"

Mr. Chrome

would'nt be seen dead with it outside tbh!!!

damon5

Mr. Chrome wrote: »

Check out the new agr cartomizer tank, it holds a boge carto, both sizes, comes with 2 tubes and cannot slide off, I have one in the post!

Just came across your post and wondering how you got on with it seeing as though at the moment i,m trying to make up my mind between that and the BogeF16,cheers..